Life of a Pioneer: Being the Autobiography of James S. Brown (2024)

SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH:
GEO. Q. CANNON & SONS CO., Printers.
1900.

PREFACE.

THE life of a pioneer in Western America always is full of periland hardship; often it has a large share of startling episodes andthrilling adventures; not infrequently it is associated with notablehistoric events; and the experiences met with develop independence ofcharacter, firmness of purpose, and, in those whose spiritual natureis not dwarfed by unworthy conduct, a sublime faith in God that whenman puts forth his highest endeavor all things beyond the scope of hisefforts are ordered for the best by the Great Ruler of the universe.When to the pioneer's experiences are added those that come from travelin foreign lands, perils of the sea, and the hostility of warlike foes,the narrative of such a life cannot fail to be alike profitable andinteresting reading to both young and old.

The subject of the autobiographical sketch in this volume feels thathe is not presumptuous in saying that each class of experience namedin relation to the pioneer and the traveler has been his. The perilsand hardships of the pioneers in whose work he commingled have beenthe theme of song and story for half a century; the thrilling andadventurous character of his experiences as frontiers-man and Indianinterpreter were of a kind notable even in those avocations; hisassociation with historic events of moment includes the period whenthe territorial area of the great Republic was almost doubled by theacquisition of the Pacific slope and the Rocky Mountain region, andwhen the great gold discovery in California was made, since he wasa member of the famous Mormon Battalion and also was present at thefinding of gold in California, being the first man to declare—ontests made by himself—that the little yellow flakes were the preciousmetal; and his reliance on Deity is portrayed in his missionary workat home and in foreign lands, with civilized people and among savages,often in circumstances when life itself apparently was forfeit to dutyconscientiously performed.

In the following pages there is no claim to transcendent literarymerit. Yet the writer feels that the narrative is presented in theplain and simple language of the people, with a clearness and forceof expression that will be pleasing and impressive to every readerpossessed of ordinary or of superior educational attainments; whilethe very simplicity and directness of the language used, far fromembellishing the events described, prove an invaluable guide insecuring accuracy, that not an incident shall be overdrawn or givenundue importance.

The purpose of the writer has been to relate the story of his life, forthe benefit and entertainment of his children and friends, and of allothers who may read it, and to do so with a strict regard for veracity;for he feels that the numerous thrilling and sensational incidents inhis life were sufficiently exciting to bear a toning down that comesfrom calm contemplation when the agitation of the immediate occurrencehas passed, rather than to need the coloring of a graphic pen. In sucha presentation, too, he feels that the result of his labors in thisrespect will be a further step in carrying out that which has been theleading purpose of his life, namely, to do good to all mankind, to theglory of God.

With a fervent desire and firm confidence that every worthy aim inpresenting this autobiography shall be achieved, and shall find avigorous and ennobling response in the hearts of those who read it, theleading events of his life, and the narration thereof, are respectfullysubmitted to his family and friends by

THE AUTHOR.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Home of the Author—A Career of Thrilling Experiences—His Birthand Parentage—Early Avocations—Migration from North Carolinato Illinois—Life on the Frontier—Dangers to Early Settlers—AFrontiersman—Father's Advice—More Settlers Come—Churches andSchools—Limited Opportunities—Frozen Feet—Unimpressionable to thePreaching of the Time—Talk of a New Religion, Prophets, Miracles,etc.—Prosecution of the New Church—"Showers of Stars"—PopularAdverse Views of the Mormons—The Mormons Driven from MissouriInto Illinois—Mormon Elder Comes to Preach—Converts UncleJames Brown—Preaches Again—Preparations to Mob the Elder—HisScriptural Doctrine Disconcerts Enemies and Secures him Friends—HisDiscourse—Effect on Young James S. Brown of the First Gospel Sermon tohim—His Testimony to the Spirit and Truth of the Elder's Message.

CHAPTER II.

Persecuted by Playmates—Give Them an Effective Check—Fightwith Wild Beasts—Parents Join the Mormons—The Author HoldsBack—Assassination of Joseph and Hyrum Smith—Mormons Leave Illinoisfor the West—Exciting Times—My Winter's Work—Father Decides toWait a While Before Leaving Illinois—My Determination to go with theMormons—Confide a Secret to my Mother—A New Consultation—Change Inthe Family Plans—Father Prepares to Start—Gives me Permission toGo—Thinks of Leaving me because of My Illness—I Feel to Prefer Deathto Being Left Behind.

CHAPTER III.

Start for Nauvoo—Taken Severely Ill—The Lord Answers my Prayerfor Relief—Pass through Carthage—In Nauvoo "The Beautiful,"but Almost Deserted City—Scene on the Iowa Shore—Cross theMississippi—Curious Make-up of the Exiles' Teams—The Bad Roads—Stuckin the Mud—Repairing Camps—Good Order Maintained—UnnecessaryKilling of Game Forbidden—Reach Grand River and Put In a Crop—Learnof the Call for the Mormon Battalion—Apostles as RecruitingOfficers—Call for Volunteers—Response by the Camp—Received intothe church by Baptism—Filled with the Love of the Gospel—Get theSpirit to Enlist—Consult my Relatives and Ezra T. Benson—An Elder'sPromise—Join the Mormon Battalion.

CHAPTER IV.

Start for the Battalion Rendezvous—A Journey of Hardship—In theMormons' Camp on Missouri River—First Experiences in the Army—Blessedby Apostles—Prophetic Address by President Brigham Young—TheBattalion starts on its Long Journey—Doing Camp Duty—Heavy Storms andInsufficient Rations—Hard Experiences—At Fort Leavenworth—MexicanMules as a Cure for Egotism—Colonel Allen Taken Ill—On the Santa FeRoad—Suffering from Thirst—Sickness among the Troops—Dr. G. B.Sanderson, a Tyrannical Quack—Army Merchants—Order of Marching.

CHAPTER V.

Crossing of the Kaw River—Indian Farmers—Fierce Storm on Stone CoalCreek—Crossing a Creek with Precipitous Banks—Ruins of an AncientCity—Wagonload of Sick Upset in a Stream—Sad News of Col. Allen'sDeath—Dispute over His Successor—Military Rules Disregarded InSettling The Question—Troops Dissatisfied—Sickness In Camp—Harshnessof the New Commander, Lieutenant Colonel Smith—Brutality of the Doctor—Doses of Objectionable Medicine in an Old Iron Spoon—In the ComancheIndian Country—-Abuse from Lieutenant Colonel Smith—Scarcity ofFuel—Buffalo Chips—Cooking Food under Great Difficulties—Increase ofSickness—Up the Grand Valley of the Arkansas—Detachment of Sick Sentto Pueblo—Mirages—Herds of Buffalo—On the Sick List—Reach the RockyMountains—Prehistoric Ruins—In Mexican Villages—Arrival at Santa Fe.

CHAPTER VI.

Exemplary Conduct of the Mormon Troops—Lieutenant Colonel P. St.George Cooke Arrives and Assumes Command—A Welcome Change—AnotherDetachment of Sick, also the Laundresses, Sent to Pueblo—SelectingMen to Continue the Journey to California—Reducing theBaggage—Difficulties of the 1,100 Miles Journey Ahead—PoorEquipment Therefor—Leave Santa Fe—Roads of Heavy Sand—On One-thirdRations—Hardships Increase—Galled Feet and Gnawing Stomachs—MoreSick Men for Pueblo—Leaving the Last Wagons—Mules and Oxen In a PackTrain—In an Unknown Country—Hunting a Pass over the Mountains—Alarmof an Enemy—A Beaver Dam—Crossing the Rio Grande Del Norte—GreatSuffering Among the Troops.

CHAPTER VII.

Pushing to the West—Overhearing a Conversation with Col. Cooke—TheColonel Fears the Men Will Starve—No Berries, not even Bark Of Trees,for Food—True State of Affairs as to the Outlook Kept from Most of theTroops—Hides, Intestines, and even soft Edges of Hoofs and Horns ofAnimals Eaten—"Bird's Eye Soup."—In a Snowstorm—Relics of AncientInhabitants—Camp without Water—Old Silver and Copper Mines—HardestDay of the Journey—Men Appear as if Stricken with Death—The Writerso Ill as to be Unable to Travel Longer, and Expects to Die—UncleAlexander Stephens Comes with Water and Revives Him—Awful Suffering inCamp—Reported Sick Next Morning—Brutal Dr. Sanderson Gives a DeadlyDose of Laudanum, but the Writer Vomits it After Being Made FearfullySick—In Terrible Distress for Days—Healed by the Laying on of Handsof the Elders of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints

CHAPTER VIII.

On the Summit of the Rocky Mountains—Crossing the Backbone of theNorth American Continent—Review of the Journey—Graves Opened byWolves—Mutilated Bodies—An Unparalleled Journey of Hardship—TheProspect Ahead—A Matter of Life and Death—Start Down the PacificSlope—Descending the Cliffs with Wagons—One Vehicle Slips and isreduced to Kindling Wood and Scrap Iron—Into a New Climate—Changein the Character of Vegetation—Wild Horses and Cattle—Attacked byWild Cattle—Several Men Hurt and one Mule Gored to Death—A Numberof Cattle Killed—Supply of Beef—Reach the Pan Pedro River—TravelingThrough a Heavy Growth of Mesquit and Chapparal—Approach the MexicanGarrisoned Town of Tucson—News of Approach of a Large American ArmySent to the Mexicans—Order Issued by Colonel Cooke.

CHAPTER IX.

On the Trail to Tucson—Excitement In the Town—Meet MexicanSoldiers—Our Numbers Overrated by the Indians—Mexican Commanderunder Orders to Oppose us—Colonel Cooke Announces his Wish to Pass onWithout Hostilities—Arrest of Corporal Cassaduran, son of the MexicanCommander at Tucson, and other Mexicans who are Held as Hostagesfor the Return of our Interpreter—The Interpreter is Liberated—AnArmistice Proposed—Surrender of Tucson Demanded—Mexican PrisonersReleased—Surrender is Refused—Colonel Cooke orders the Battalion toPrepare for Battle—Advance toward the Town—Flight of the Mexicans—Atthe Gates of Tucson—Our Line of Battle—Address by Colonel Cooke—WeEnter the Town, and Pass Through to Camp—Purchases of Wheat,Corn, etc.—The battalion nearly Starved—Night Alarm of a MexicanAttack—Difficulties of Getting into Line—No Enemy in Sight—StartAcross the Gila Desert—Agony on the Burning Sands and AlkaliFlats—Strengthened by the Divine Blessing—Reach the Gila River.

CHAPTER X.

On the Gila River—Pima Indian Village—Welcome Gifts from thePimas—Among the Maricopa Indians—Asleep on the Trail—Visit froma Bear—Loss of Provisions Through an Attempt to Float a QuantityDown the Gila—Hard Traveling—Crossing the Colorado River—Gloom Inthe Camp—Lower and Upper California—Terrible March over the TierraCaliente, or Hot Lands—Digging Wells for Brackish Water—AdvanceGuard Reach a Mountain Spring—Water Carried back to Revive theFainting Troops—Last Spoonful of Flour Used—Dividing the Rations—Inthe Canyons of the Sierra Nevada—Hewing Roads through Rocks andBrush—Feeding on Live Acorns and Green Mustard—News of Victoriesby United states Troops in California—Preparing to Engage theRetiring Mexican Army—First House Seen in California—Beef WithoutSalt—Trade for Acorn Mush—Heavy Storm and Flood In Camp—a Few Poundsof Flour Secured—Dancing in Mud and Water—Receive Orders to go toLos Angeles—Discover a Body of Troops in Line of Battle—Advanceto the Attack—Supposed Foe Proves to be Friendly Indians—Presenceof the Mormon Battalion prevents an Intended Attempt by Mexicans toRetake California, also an Uprising of Californians Against the UnitedStates—On a Battlefield where General Kearney had Fought—Relicsof the Encounter—Prophecy of President Brigham Young and itsFulfillment—Source of His Inspiration.

CHAPTER XI.

Ordered to San Diego—First View of the Pacific Ocean—Rumorsof the Enemy—Complimentary Order, by Lieut. Col. Cooke, onthe Achievements of the Mormon Battalion—Reported Hostility ofCol. Fremont to Gen. Kearney—Living on Beef Alone—Obtain someFlour—Routine of the Camp—Ordered to Los Angeles—Damage by anEarthquake—Wild Horses and Cattle Driven Into the Sea—Arrival atLos Angeles—Rumors of an Attack—Constructing a Fort—Guarding CajonPass—Surrounded by Wild Cattle—Take Refuge In a Ravine—Col. FremontArrested—Site of San Bernardino—Getting out a Liberty Pole—Brushwith the Indians—Clearing Los Angeles of Dogs—Wickedness in theTown—Brutality of Bull Fights, Horse Racing, etc.—Always Ready foran Attack—First Raising of the Stars and Stripes on a Liberty Pole inCalifornia.

CHAPTER XII.

Term of Enlistment Expires—Battalion Members Preparing to Return totheir Families—One company Re-enlists—An Insolent Spaniard—PistolSnapped in the Writer's Face—Almost a Deathblow—Desperate FightStopped by Bystanders—Serious Trouble with Another Spaniard—Learnthe Lesson to Avoid those who Gamble or Drink Intoxicants—SpanishCharacter—Class of California's Inhabitants in 1847—Condition of theCountry—Appearance of the Towns and Villages—Difficulty in Securingan Outfit for Members of the Battalion to Journey Eastward.

CHAPTER XIII.

Mormon Battalion Mustered out of Service—One Hundred and FiftyMembers Organize to Return Fast to the Rocky Mountains—Start on theJourney—Difficulties of the Route—Dealing with Wild Horses andCattle Stampede of a Pack Animal—Chase Into an Indian Camp—Lost AllNight in a Swamp—Suffering on the Desert for Lack of Water—ArriveNear Sutter's Fort—On the Site of Sacramento Party Decide to RemainOver for the Year, and Obtain Employment—Meet Captain J. A. Sutterand James W. Marshall—Proposition to Capt. Sutter—Engaged to Workon a Sawmill—Proceedings at the Millsite—Mill Started Up—The WriterEngaged to Direct Indians Laboring at the Tail Race—Conversation withMr. Marshall—Marshall Talks About Finding Gold—He and the Writer makea Search for Gold, but Finding None, Defer the Investigation till NextMorning—Marshall's Faith in his Being Successful In Discovering thePrecious Metal.

CHAPTER XIV.

Arrival of the Members of Mormon Battalion at Sutter's Fort Opens theWay for the Discovery of Gold In California—James W. Marshall outEarly on January 24, 1848—"He is Going to Find a Gold Mine"—Regardedas a "Notional" Man—"Boys, I have got Her Now!"—Testing the Scalesof Metal—"Gold, Boys, Gold!"—First Proclamation of the Great GoldDiscovery—Second and Third Tests—All Excitement—Three or FourOunces of Gold Gathered—Agree to Keep the Discovery Secret—Findthe Precious Metal Farther Down the Stream—How the Secret Leakedout—More Discoveries—First Publication of the News made in aMormon Paper—Washing out the Metal—First Gold Rocker—GatheringGold—Part taken by Mr. Marshall, the Mormons and Capt. Sutter in theDiscovery—Misfortunes of Sutter and Marshall—Account of the GoldDiscovery Certified to by Several Eye Witnesses

CHAPTER XV.

Prepare to Leave California—Snow in the Mountains Causes a Wait tillthe Last of June—Discover a Rich Gold Prospect—Leave it to Make theJourney over the Mountains—No Regrets at Abandoning the Mines inAnswer to a Call of Duty—Camp Organized in Pleasant Valley—Starton the Trip—Three Members of the Party Ahead, Looking out theRoute, Found Murdered by Indians at Tragedy Springs—Covering theBodies—Stampede of Animals—Guarding Against Hostile Indians—Crossingthe Divide in Snow—The Writer Fooled—Take Two Indians Prisoners—Cuttinga Road—Horses Stolen by Indians—Pursuit to Capture them—InCarson Valley—Along Humboldt River—At Steamboat Springs—Over theDesert—Member of the Party Wants to Kill Indians—The Writer'sEmphatic Objection—Indians Wound Stock—Addison Pratt as a LuckyFisherman—Writer Trades with an Indian—The Red Man's Trick—WriterPursues him into the Indian Camp—Escape from Danger—Journey to BearRiver—Hot and Cold Water Springs—Reach Box Elder—View the GreatSalt Lake—Arrive at Ogden, where Captain Brown and some Saints hadSettled—Journey to the Mormon Camp on what is now Pioneer Square, SaltLake City—Heartily Welcomed by Relatives and Friends—Rejoicing andThanksgiving.

CHAPTER XVI.

Contentment Among the Saints in Great Salt Lake Valley—Rude Dwellingsand Short Rations—Trying Experiences—Rescue of Mormon BattalionMembers from Starvation—Carry News of California Gold Discovery tothe East—Re-union of Mormon Battalion Members—Addresses by theFirst Presidency and Others—Settling a New Country—Organization ofMinute Men—Cold Winter—The Gold Fever—Tenor of the Preaching andProphesyings of those Times—Instructing the People in IndustrialPursuits—Policy Towards the Indians.

CHAPTER XVII.

Scarcity of Food in the Great Salt Lake Valley—Wild Vegetablesfor Greens—Fair Prospects for Crops—Clouds of Crickets layBare the Fields—People struggle Against the Pests Almost toDespair—Vast Flocks of Sea Gulls, as the Clouds of Heaven, Come tothe Rescue—Destruction of the Crickets—People Praise the Lord—TheWriter Invited to a Meeting, Ordained a Seventy, and Called withOthers to go on a Mission to the Society Islands—Words of PresidentsBrigham Young and Heber C. Kimball—Preparations to Travel toCalifornia with an Emigrant Company—Description of the Route byCaptain Jefferson Hunt—Start on My Mission—Prophecy by PresidentWillard Richards—Battle with Indians at Provo Averted by Apostle C.C. Rich—Prospects of Utah Valley to Support Population—Overtake theEmigrant Company—Discussions at Beaver River—Company Starts forWalker's Pass—Turned Back by Scarcity of Water—Experience on theDesert—Dissensions in the Company—Futile Attempt to send some ofthe Members Back—Apostle C. C. Rich Foresees Further Trouble, andEndeavors to Save the Mormon Part of the Train by Advising Them toReturn to the Old Spanish Trail—Methodist and Campbellite MinistersIncite the Company Against their Mormon Guide, Captain Hunt—MainCompany Disregards Captain Hunt's Warning of Danger, and Leaves the OldSpanish Trail to Search for the Route Through Walker's Pass—Mormons gowith Captain Hunt on the Southern Route.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Caught in a Snowstorm—Via the Santa Clara and Rio Virgen tothe Muddy—News of Sad Disaster to the Emigrant Company—MakingCharcoal and Nails—An Apostle as a Blacksmith—Searching for Wateron the Desert—Crossing an Alkali Stream—Discover Gold near SaltSprings—Hurrying on over the Desert—Cattle Poisoned at BitterSprings—Killing Animals to Relieve their Sufferings—First Wagonover Cajon Pass, going West—Severe Journey to the Summit of thePass—All get Over Safely—Sense of Great Relief—Grass and WaterIn Abundance—Overtaken by survivors of the Emigrant Company—TheirStory of Terrible Suffering—Divide Provisions with Them—CelebratingChristmas, 1849—Continuing the Journey North—Spanish Warning in aCemetery to Indians—Cruelty of the Spaniards to the Indians—TheWriter Placed In Charge of the Company—Directed to go to the GoldMines.

CHAPTER XIX.

Journeying Toward the Gold Diggings—Threatened by WildHorses—Difficulties of Traveling—Convocation of the FeatheredCreation—Rejoin Our Friends—Ferrying Across a River—Strike a GoldProspect—On a Prospecting Tour—An Agreement that Failed—Instructedto go to San Francisco to proceed on a Mission—Trip toStockton—Gamblers, Sharpers and Miners at that Place—A TemptationOvercome—Arrive in San Francisco—Welcomed by Saints—Receive KindTreatment—On Hoard a Vessel Bound for Tahiti.

CHAPTER XX.

Sailing for the South Pacific—Severe Attack of Seasickness—Becalmedin the Tropics—Intense Heat—Marquesas Islands—Cannibals—ReachTahiti—Land at Papeete—Meet with Friends—Hearty Welcome—Preachingto the Natives—Animosity of Protestants and Catholics Toward theMormons—Jealousy of French Government Officials on the Island—Watchedby Detectives—Six Natives Baptized—Learning the Language—Rumorsof an Intention to Expel the Mormons—Elders B. F. Grouard and T.Whitaker Arrested—Appeal for Aid—Their Release and Return to theirMissionary Labors—Meet with Brother Pratt Again—Interview with theGovernor—That Official Refuses Elders Pratt and Brown Permission toVisit Another Island—Scarcity of Food at Huaua—Eating Seasnails andBugs—Strange Dishes of Food—Almost Perish from Thirst—Visit toTiarara—Acquiring the Language.

CHAPTER XXI.

Offer of Transportation to the Island of Tubuol—Apply to the Governorfor Permission to go—Troops on Parade—Suite of Queen Pomere—Callon the Governor—Conversation in Three Languages—Directed to ComeAgain Next Day—Put off by the Governor—Latter Refuses the PermissionAsked—His Prejudice Against the Mormons—Demands a Statement of TheirDoctrines—Not Required of Other Denominations—Writer's Interviewwith the Governor—Return to Huaua—Other Elders Requested to Assemblethen—Bitterness of Protestant Ministers—Natives comment on MormonsLearning Their Language Quickly.

CHAPTER XXII.

Visit to Papeete—Duck-Hunting Trip—A Peculiar Woman—Along aPerilous Path—An Opinion of English Ministers—Arrival of S. A.Dunn—Learn of More Missionaries Arriving at Tubuoi—News from myFather and Others—Letters from the First Presidency and Some of theApostles—Written Statement Sent to the Governor of Tahiti—Visit theGovernor—Our Statement Rejected—List of Questions and StatementPresented by the Governor—Reply of Elder A. Pratt—Objections by theGovernor—Permission given us to Travel and Preach on the Islands.

CHAPTER XXIII.

Return to Huahua—Heavy Rainstorms—Refusal of an Offer to beCarried Over a Stream—Perilous Swimming Feat—Episode with a WildBoar—Start on a Trip Around the Island—Obtain a Loaf of Bread—Peoplenot Desirous of Listening to the Mormon Elders—Customs of theNatives—Reputation of Protestant Clergy on Tahiti—With the ChiefMagistrate of Uairai—Across a Small Bay in a Canoe—French Garrison atthe Isthmus—With my Friend Pohe—Review of a Hard Journey—Again atHuaua.

CHAPTER XXIV.

Scarcity of Food—Traveling In Heavy Rains—Call on a ProtestantMinister—Arrival of Another Missionary and Letters from Home—Visitorsfrom Metia—Hold a Sacrament Meeting—Go to Papara—Abused by theProtestant Minister—Preach to the People—Young Woman MiraculouslyHealed at Baptism—Great Excitement—Rage of the ProtestantMinisters—Persecution Instituted—Arrested for Preaching—Released onPromising to Return to Huaua—Plenty of Friends—Unintentional Escapefrom Gen d'Armes—Arrival at Papeete—Charge on which Officers seek toArrest me—Abused by Rev. Mr. Howe—A Quiet Answer Calls Out Cheersfrom the Crowd—Tide Turns in my Favor—Excitement Calms Down, andEfforts to Arrest Me Cease.

CHAPTER XXV.

Several Baptisms—Visit Papara Again—Coldness of the People—BitterEfforts of the Protestant Ministers—Natives Visit Me InSecret—Anti-Mormon Mass Meeting—Foolish and Vicious scheme toEnsnare the Writer—It is Easily Defeated—Return to Papeete—MoreBaptisms—Departure of Elder Dunn—I am left Alone—Brethren comefrom Tubuoi—Elders Appointed to Labor in Different Islands—Thewriter Assigned to the Tuamotu Group—Leave on the Elders' Schoonerthe Ravai or Fisher—Meet with Contrary Winds—Driven to VariousIslands—Encounter a Violent storm—In Great Peril—Vessel BeyondControl—Storm calms Down—Reach Tubuoi—First Preaching of the Gospelthere, in 1844.

CHAPTER XXVI.

Hearty Welcome in Tubuoi—Start for Tuamotu—Reach Papeete,Tahiti—Visit to Huaua—Leave Tahiti—Writer gets Relief fromSeasickness—Broiled Fish and Cocoanuts—in a School of Whales—Thrownonto a Coral Reef—Total Wreck Imminent—Three Persons yet Ashore—Boatgoes out to Sea—Wreck of Elder Dunn's Party—Three Days In the Sea,Clinging to a Capsized Boat—Clothing Torn off by Sharks—Skin Takenoff by the Sea and Sun—Reach the Island of Anaa—Recognized by aMan who had seen me in a Dream—Preaching and Baptizing—Many ofthe Natives Church Members—Make a Rude Map of the California GoldFields—Tell of Having been in the Mormon Battalion—Catholic PriestsElicit this Information as Part of a Scheme to have me Expelled fromthe Island.

CHAPTER XXVII.

Invited to Organize Schools—Catholic Priests Displeased atMormon Success—Good Attendance at the Schools—Threats by thePriests—Discomfiture of the Latter—Feast and Address of Welcome bythe Natives to the Writer—Preaching and Baptisms—Catholic Priestsseize a Schoolhouse Belonging to the Saints—Disturb a Saints'Meeting—More Baptisms—Further Annoyance by Catholics—People DecideAgainst Them—Town Officials Appealed to—They Uphold the Decision inFavor of the Mormons—Priests Write to Governor Bonard, Making FalseCharges Against me—A Peculiar Dream.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Go to Temaraia—Miraculous Healings—Child Assailed by an EvilSpirit—Strange Occurrence—Gift of Sea Biscuits—Perform a SurgicalOperation—Hammering out Teeth—The Writer as a Surgeon andDentist—Roughs Disturbs Meeting—They are Stricken with Death—FatalSickness among the People—Lower Classes of Natives at a Feast—TheirReverence for Religious Services and Preachers—Two Parties of Nativesin Battle Array—Fighting Averted by the Writer Addressing theContending Factions in Favor of Peace—Wars among the Natives—Someof their Practices—Gathering and Keeping Human Heads—Causes ofCannibalism—Conversation with one who had been a Cannibal—Flavor ofNative and White Men's Flesh Compared—The Tastiest Part of the HumanBody.

CHAPTER XXIX.

Hold Conference in Putuhara—Instructions to the Saints—Go toOtapipi—Opposition at Temaraia—Officials Bribed by CatholicPriests—Arrival of a French Warship—The Writer is Arrested whileExpounding the Scriptures to the Natives—Cause of Arrest is FalseAccusation by Catholic Priests—I Plead Not Guilty—Ordered Takento Tahiti—Painful Prison Experience—Cannibals in Custody—Startfor the Ship—Sympathy of the Natives—Hurried into the Ship'sBoat—In a School of Whales—A Frightened Boat Load—On Board theWarship—Uncomfortable Quarters—Questionable French Courtesy—AmongCockroaches, Filth, and Inconveniences—Soft Side of a Plank for a Bed.

CHAPTER XXX.

Voyage to Papeete—In a Tahitian Dungeon—Cruel Treatment—Write toFriends—Kindness of the American Hotel Keeper—Brought Before theGovernor—False Charges Read, and Plea of Not Guilty Entered—PerjuredTestimony Against Me—Forbidden to Look at, or even Cross-ExamineWitnesses—Secrecy of the Alleged Trial—Demand My Rights asan American Citizen—Confusion of the Governor—Returned to MyCell—American Consul takes up my Case—Gives Bonds that I will Leavethe Protectorate—Elders and Friends Call on me—My Visitors Allowed toSay but Little, and Sometimes Excluded—Decision of the Governor that Imust Leave the Society Islands—Fair Trial Refused me—Letter from theAmerican Consul—Taken to the Consul's Office—Advised to Leave—EldersDecide that I should go Outside of the French Protectorate—Set Sailfrom Papeete.

CHAPTER XXXI.

Leaving Tahiti under the Order of Banishment—Supply of ProvisionsExhausted—Caught in a Calm—Suffering from Lack of Food—ReachTubuoi—Go Ashore upon Invitation of the Queen—Sail for Raivavai—MeetElder Pratt There—Left Alone on the Island—Savage Character of theNatives—The Governor a Friend—Visit from House to House—PeopleGenerally Unwilling to Receive the Gospel—Council Decides that I mustLeave the Island or be Killed—A Time of Excitement—Storm Passes fora while—Baptize Twenty Persons—Noted Chief and the Heiress to theThrone Join the Church—More Bitterness and Excitement—Two Parties ofNatives Meet to Engage in Battle—Manage to Reconcile Them and PreventBloodshed—Further Threats Against the Mormons—Some Church Membersfeel to Retaliate but are Restrained—Passengers Arrive with Falseand Scandalous Stories About the Mormons—Persecution Increases—TheFew Saints on the island Become Sorrowful and Discouraged—ProtestantMinisters Advise Expulsion of the Saints—Renewal of the Faith and Zealof the Church Members.

CHAPTER XXXII.

People Gather at a Feast, and to Decide what to do with theMormons—Threats to have Roast Missionary—Saints hold Prayer andTestimony Meeting—Kept Awake all Night—Council of Natives Decidesto Roast and Eat me—Fire is Built—Men Sent to Drag me to theCouncil—Promises of Presidents Brigham Young and Willard Richards Cometo my Mind—All Fear Is Banished—Saints and Their Enemies Orderedto Separate—All but Two Mormons Stand by me—Sublime Courage of aNative and His Wife—The Charge Against Me—I Appeal to the Bible, butour Enemies Refuse to be Guided by the Law of God—Notified of theDecision that I am to be Burned—Spirit of the Lord Rests upon me inGreat Power, Inspiring me to Defy our Enemies—Spirit of ConfusionEnters our Foes—They Quarrel and Fight With Each Other—Difficulty InRestraining Church Members—Deliverance which the Lord Wrought out forme—I am Allowed to proceed Unmolested—Meet a Member of the Councilwhich Condemned me to Death—His Testimony that a Pillar of LightDescended from Heaven and Rested on me, Filling them with Fear—No moreAnti-Mormon Councils—Natives show no Disposition to Receive the Gospel.

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Long time without News from Home—Letter from Elder B. F.Grouard—Released from my Missionary Labors in the Islands—LittleOpportunity to Leave Raivavai—Natives Build a Schooner—Fast andPray to Learn whether I should sail on the Vessel—The Answer—Sailfor Rapia—Driven Back to Raivavai—Make a New Start—Arrive atRapia—Ridiculous Idea of the People Concerning a Mormon Elder—I amForbidden to go Ashore, on Pain of Death—Feeling is Modified Somewhat,and I go Ashore—Battle Between the Natives—An Old Man Gives meFood—Attend a Meeting, get Permission to Speak a Few Words and amOrdered from the Island—Increase of Sentiment of Toleration—Invitedto Supper at the Governor's—Strange Custom of Women Waiting onMen—Rather than Follow it, I Submit to being Called a Heathen.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

Determine to Preach to the People—Refused a House—Hold an Open-AirMeeting—Strange Congregation—Six other Meetings—Visit a NativeKing—He Commands me to Leave—I do so In Order to Avoid Being Putto Death—Watermelons and Other Vegetables—Native Tradition of thePeopling of the Islands—Visit of a Protestant Minister—Sail forTahiti—In a Heavy Storm—Prayers by Frightened Natives—I am Asked toPray with them, but Decline to Follow their Methods—Reach the Harborof Papeete—American Consul Obtains Permission for me to Land—Goto Work with a Carpenter—Warned not to be Alone lest I should beKilled—Watched by Gen d'Armes—Trouble at Anaa, and Arrest of NativeMormons—These are Brought to Papeete—How they got Letters to me, andtheir Replies—My Former Persecutors of Raivavai Come to Me for Advice,and I Return Good for Evil.

CHAPTER XXXV.

Watched Closely by Gen d'Armes—Experience when at Prayer—Take Dinnerwith the Rev. Mr. Howe—Dining with a Catholic Bishop—Impatienceof the Governor—Leave Tahiti on the Abyssinia—Curiosity ofPassengers and Sailors—Difficulty in Getting out of the Harbor—Hearof More Trouble at Anaa—Captain's comment on Mormon Books—AWaterspout—Crossing the Equator—Encounter a Terrible Storm—ATidal Wave—Ship Springs a Leak—Panic on Board—All Hands to thePumps—Stopping a Leak—Fair Weather Again.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

Arrive at San Francisco—A Wrecked Ship—The AbyssiniaCondemned—Gathering Wreckage—Drunken sailors—My Trunk Held forHospital Fees—Go Ashore, where all Is Changed and Strange—MyDilapidated Appearance—Seek Guidance of the Lord—WanderAlmost in Despair—Meet an Old Friend—Find a Home—My TrunkReleased—Meet Elders Going on Missions—Well Treated by Saints andStrangers—Providences of the Lord—Outward Bound Elders EntrustedMoney to me for their Families—Engage to Carry Mail to Los Angeles—Ona Steamer for San Pedro—Taken Severely Ill.

CHAPTER XXXVII.

Become Desperately Ill—Nursed Back to Consciousness—Kindnessof an Aged Spanish Couple—Belt with Money Entrusted to meDisappears—Intense Anxiety—Discover the Money—Great Suffering—Landat San Pedro—Left on the Beach—Drag Myself to the Shelter of an OldWall—Kindness of a Spaniard and His Wife—A Terrible Night—Seeka Passage to Los Angeles with Freighters—Refusals—Meet a KindTeamster—Reach Los Angeles—Dumped on the Street—Find Shelter, buta Chilly Welcome—Start Next Morning, Sick and Hungry, to Find a NewPlace—So Ill I have to Lie Down in the Street—Two Friends from SanBernardino—Am Told that I have the Smallpox—My Friends Give me Moneyand start in Search of a House where I can be Cared for—Failing toSecure a Room, they Engage the City Marshal to get a Place, and theyLeave for San Bernardino—I wander for Shelter, but Doors are Closed,and People Avoid me—Lodge in a Doctor's Office while the Doctor isout—Scare the People by Shouting "Smallpox!"—The Doctor Returns butLeaves me in Possession.

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

City Marshal and Doctor Come to Remove me—Taken to a Deserted House,which had been Used as a Sheepfold—Bedded In Sheep Manure—An IndianNurse who Becomes Frightened—Spanish Nurse Sent to me—In a boat withPatient Job—My Fever Increases—Attacked by Robbers—Relieved byCity Marshal with Posse—Marshal takes the Money I have in my care,for Safe Keeping—Spanish Nurse Scared off—Queer Sailor Nurse—HeDrinks Whisky, Sings and Dances—His Thoughtful Care of me—Visitedby my Cousin—Kindness of San Bernardino Saints—Recovering from myIllness—My Clothing Burned—Heavy Expense Bill Against me—Tell theCity Marshal of my Arrival in California as a United States Soldier inthe Mexican War—Kindness of the Marshal—Los Angeles Assumes the Billfor Medical Attention Given me—Start for San Bernardino—Exhaustedon the Journey—Almost Die of Thirst—Relieved by a Party of SpanishLadies—Kindness of Spanish Families—Arrive at San Bernardino and MeetFriends and Relatives

CHAPTER XXXIX.

Report my Mission—Prepare to Continue the Journey to Utah—Haveto Remain at San Bernardino for a Time—Sickness among thePeople—Instances of Healing by Administration—Engage to Travelwith a Pack Train to Salt Lake City—Get a "Bucking Mule"—Start onthe Journey—In a Hostile Indian Country—Signs of Danger—Preparefor Trouble—Sudden Appearance of an Indian—Our Party Want toShoot—I Protest, and make Friends with the Indian—Other Red MenAppear—Difficulty of Restraining our Party—I converse with theIndians, who tell of a Camp of Mormons and Mexicans a short DistanceAhead—How I Understood the Indians—Discover the Camp Spoken of—Resta Day—Move Toward the Santa Clara—Danger Ahead—A Fire Across ourPath—We Dash Through It—Hostile Indians—An Exciting chase—MeetApostles A. M. Lyman and C. C. Rich—Arrive at Cedar City—Stopat Parowan—Journey North, Preaching en Route—Reach Salt LakeCity—Settle with the People for whom I have Money—Report to PresidentYoung—Preach In the Tabernacle—Released from my Mission—Cost of myMission to the Society Islands.

CHAPTER XL.

Travel on Foot to Ogden—Well Received by Relatives andFriends—Reply to Inquiries by the People Regarding the SocietyIslands and the Inhabitants Thereof—Called to go to Fort HallOrder Countermanded—Called on a Mission to the Indians—Design ofthe Mission—Organization of the Company, and Start from Salt LakeCity—Hard Work of the Journey—Attacked by Wolves—Fatal Duel atFort Bridger—Plans of Desperadoes—We go to Smith's Fork—Builda Blockhouse—Arrival of More Men and Supplies—ThreateningAttitude of the Indians—Writer made Sergeant of the Guard andQuartermaster—Instructions from Elder Orson Hyde—Life in ournew Camp—Cold Weather and Wild Beasts—Learning the IndianLanguage—Give Shelter to Indians—Desperado Chief Killed by one ofhis Men—Animals Perish from Cold and Starvation—Terrific Storms andSnowdrifts—Saving our Stock—Shoshone Indians Ask for and ReceiveAssistance—Hunt tor Antelope Falls—A Bachelor's Dance—Raising aLiberty Pole—Partitioning out Lands—Plowing and Planting—Arrival ofand Instructions by Elder Orson Hyde—Selections for a Special Missionto the Indians—Organization of Green River County.

CHAPTER XLI.

Set Apart by Elder Hyde for our Special Mission—Blessing Conferredon the Writer—Discontent In Camp—Unity Again Prevails—Start on ourJourney—Warned at Green River to go no Farther—Not Deterred fromPerforming our Mission—Proceed on our Journey—Futile Chase afterBuffalo—Scarcity of Water—A Welcome Snow Storm—Reach the Camp ofWashakie, the Shoshone Chief—Received with Caution—Tell the Chiefthe Object of our Visit—Give him Bread and Sugar—Boiled Buffalo foran Epicure Indian Powwow Called—Proceedings at the Council—Objectionto one of our Propositions, which we were not Annoyed at—Recital ofhow Government Agents Sought to Supplant Washakie as Chief—Washakie aGreat Orator.

CHAPTER XLII.

Leave Washakie's Camp for the Other Portion of the ShoshoneTribe—Indian Guide Leaves us—Following a Trail—Sight the OtherCamp—War Songs and Dances—Indians Preparing for War—Chief Givesup his Lodge to us, Warning us of Men in his Camp he Cannot Control—Indian Braves in War Paint—Surrounded by Fifteen Hundred or TwoThousand Indians—Learn that L. B. Ryan, a White Desperado Chief, isin Camp, and has sworn Vengeance on Mormons Escape seems Impossible,but we Trust in God—Retire for the Night—Ryan and Seven Warriorsat our Lodge—Ryan Enters and Demands to know where we are from, andour Business—He is Told, Threatens us, and Summons his Indian BravesInside our Lodge—Though the Enemy are two to one, we are Ready forthem—Prepare for a Fight to the Death—Ryan and his Men Leave theLodge, War Dance Outside—We Conclude to Sell our Lives as Dearlyas Possible—War Party Approach the Lodge and Slit it In a Numberof Places, then suddenly Depart—Our Lives being Spared, we Remainin Camp till Next Day—The chief Befriends us, Warning us not toReturn the way we Came—Dispute as to the Route of Travel, and howit is Settled—Satisfied that Ryan intended to Ambush us—RainstormObliterates our Tracks—Camp in the Rain—On the Alert for anEnemy—Shoot a Buffalo—Ward and Davis give chase, while Bullockand I continue on our Route—Camp at a ash—Bullock Taken veryIll—A Terrible Night—Ward and Davis not Returning by Morning, weMove on—Fear that Bullock will Die—Discover our Comrades in theCanyon—Being Hungry, we Overeat—Another Night of Sickness—Emergefrom the Canyon—Press Forward to Green River—Welcomed byFriends—Three of our Party go on to Fort Supply, and I Remain to meetChief Washakie.

CHAPTER XLIII.

Engaged as interpreter—Class of People at Green River—AppointedDeputy Sheriff—Drover Threatens to Kill Boatmen Arrest Ordered—Rideinto the Outlaws' Camp—Bluffing the Captain—A Perilous Situation—Parley with Drovers—Compromise Effected—Dealing withLaw-breakers—"Bill" Hickman as Sheriff Swimming Cattle Over GreenRiver—A Drover's Failure—Writer Employed to get Cattle Over—How itis done Secret of Success—Arrival of Washakie—The Ferryman Offendshim—The Angry Indian Swears Vengeance on the White Man—His PartingThreat—In Peril of an Indian Massacre.

CHAPTER XLIV.

Consternation at Washakie's Declaration—People Hurry across theRiver—The Writer is Asked to Attempt a Reconciliation—Night too Darkto Travel—Chief Washakie and Braves Appear at Sunrise—The Chiefnotes that the People are Terror-Stricken, and Decides that he will betheir Friend—Troublous Exploits of Mountain Men—Sheriff's plan ofArrest—How the Scheme Worked—Desperadoes Freed by the Court—Chasingan Offender—Surrounded by his Associates—Coolness and Pluck of theSheriff Win—Ready to Return Home—A Trying Experience.

CHAPTER XLV.

Go to Fort Supply—Start back to Green River and meet O.P. Rockwellat Fort Bridger—He brings me a Trader's License, also Goods to Tradeto the Indians—Being Late in the Season, We Store the Goods, and goto Salt Lake City—Receive the Approval of Governor Young—Move toOgden—Accompany Governor Young as Interpreter—My Horse Stolen—Calledon a Mission to the Shoshones—On going to Salt Lake City, I amReleased—Ordered to take part In Disarming Indians at Ogden—ADifficult Job—Chase to Mound Fort—Hand-to-hand Struggle with aPowerful Savage—Indians Disarmed, but Sullen—Chief's Brother Offersall his Possessions for his Gun—Precautions Taken to Feed the Indiansthat Winter—Teach the Indian Language in School—Prosper In Business.

CHAPTER XLVI.

Another Mission to the Indians—Start for the ShoshoneCamp—Difficulties of Travel—Near the Crows and Blackfeet—A Dreamgives Warning of Danger—Discover a Large Body of Indians—NoOpportunity of Escape—Ride into the Camp of a Hunting and WarParty—Meet chief Washakie—A Day's March—Situation Critical—Hold aCouncil—Present the Book of Mormon—All but Washakie Speak Against usand the Book—Awaiting the Chief's Decision.

CHAPTER XLVII.

Washakie's Bold Attitude—Tells his Councilors they are Fools—Says theWhite Men, who are Wise, have Books—Tells the Tradition of how theIndians fell into Darkness—Great Spirit Angry at the Red Man—Advocatesthat the Indians live like White People—His Powerful Speech Gains theDay for us—Shoshone Tradition—We Start Home—A Hungry Trip—Return tothe Indians, Finding them Sullen—Fourth of July Celebration at FortSupply—Return Home.

CHAPTER XLVIII.

Affairs at Home—Start for Fort Supply—Illness of myself andFamily—Gift of Healing—Trouble with Indians at Fort Supply—TurbulentRed Men—I Help one off my Bed—They Persist In Taking or Destroyingour Property—We Stop them—One Attempts to Kill me—IndiansRetire from the Fort—Almost a Conflict—I check the White Menfrom Shooting—Indians Withdraw—We send to Governor Young forAssistance—Our Stock and Guards Driven in—Indian Agent Appears withAnnuities—The Savages Submit—We Guard Day and Night—Indians morePeaceful—Reinforcements Arrive from the Governor—Matters Quiet Down.

CHAPTER XLIX.

Start Home from Fort Supply—Camp alone at Needle Rook—Awakened by myHorse—Surrounded by Wolves—Flash Powder all Night to keep off theWild Beasts—Reach Home—Supplies Short—Hardships of a GrasshopperYear—Getting my cattle out of a Canyon—Perils of being Caught in theSnow—Great Suffering—Breaking a Snow Road—Business Affairs.

CHAPTER L.

Called on a Mission to Deep Creek Indians—Short Time for theJourney—Prepare for the Trip—Journey in the Desert—HorsesStolen—Travel on Foot—Saved from Perishing with Thirst—Meet theIndians—Could Understand and Speak to them—Indian Agent's Offer—Iact as interpreter—Preach to the Indians—On the Return Trip—VisitGovernor Young with a Delegation of Bannock Indians.

CHAPTER LI.

Utah Militia Organized—Elected Captain of a Company—Hear ofJohnston's Army—Scouting Party sent out—I am Chosen as Guide—Travelto the Bear Lake Country—Cold Nights and Little Food—Complaint inthe Party—Prove that I am Right—Reach Lost Creek—Some of the MenObject to Double Guard—A Discovery that Removes all Objections—Strikethe Trail of Horsemen—Prepare for Action—Take a Camp by Surprise—TheMen are Friends—Arrive at Ogden—Called to go on an ImportantErrand—Tussle with an Indian—Fail in Getting Desired Information, andReturn to Ogden.

Chapter LII.

Off on Another Scout—Again on Bear River—Dream of SeeingTroops—Dream Fulfilled—Send Word back of Discovery—Five HundredCavalrymen—Heavy Storm—My only Remaining Companion taken Ill—Heis Healed and I am Stricken Down—Camp in the Snow—My companion,Expecting me to die, Prepares to take my Body Home—He Returns, Praysfor me and I am Healed—Stricken Down Again—I Direct him to Leaveme and Return Home—He obeys Reluctantly—I Expect to die—PeculiarExperiences—Four Young Men, sent by my Comrade, come to my Relief—Journey on—Lighting fire in a Storm—The Young Men Pray for me, and Iam Relieved—Traveling Homeward—Kind Treatment—Reach Ogden—Act asSexton—Guard over Spies—Utah Militia Recalled—Missionary Labors inWeber County.

CHAPTER LIII.

Mormons Abandon their Homes and Move South—Prepare for the Worst—Goto Payson—Affairs Being Settled, Return to Ogden—-Called to goEast as a Missionary—Journey across the plains—Meet my Parents InIowa—Preaching and Traveling—My Father's Testimony—MissionaryLabors—Called to Missouri—Sent to bring a Herd of Cattle—Return tomy Parents' Home—Bid Farewell to Them—Purchasing Cattle.

CHAPTER LIV.

Given Charge of a Company to Cross the Plains to Utah—Compositionof the Camp—Start West—Perform Baptisms—Meet a War Party ofSioux Indians—Place where A. W. Babbitt was Killed—Meet MoreIndians—How Trouble was Avoided—Camp Life and Duties—Enter Salt LakeValley—Company Greeted by the Church Authorities—Report to PresidentYoung and am Released—Trade at Camp Floyd—Experience with a Thief—Goto Work on the Ogden Canyon Road—Hardships Endured.

CHAPTER LV.

Called on a Mission to Great Britain—Prepare to Depart—Start WithoutPurse or Scrip—Journey to Salt Lake City—Set Apart for the Mission—Begin the Journey Eastward—Organization of the Company—My Post asChaplain—Overtaken by Apostles A. M. Lyman and C. C. Rich—TravelingThrough the Mountains—Snowstorms and Wind—Forage is Scarce—Meetingswith the Indians—Captain Reynolds' Exploring Party—Army Deserters inour Camp—Mail from Home—Emigrants Westward Bound—DissatisfactionIn Camp—Feeling about Apostles Lyman and Rich—I Resign as Captain,but am Elected again, and Finally Resume Command—Mail Robbery—MoreDisagreeable Storms—Meet a Handcart Company and Apostle George Q.Cannon—Reach the Missouri River—Visit my Father and his Family—Go toSt. Joseph, Missouri—My first View of a Railway Train—At my old Homein Brown County, Illinois—Journey Eastward by Rail—Arrive in New Yorkfor the First Time—Find Friends.

CHAPTER LVI.

Visit Various Places of Interest in New York and Vicinity—Arrivalof the Great Eastern—Preach at Williamsburg—New York's Celebrationof the Fourth—My Thirty-second Birthday—Secure Passports and OceanPassage—Crowded in the Steerage—Foggy and wet Weather—View of theIrish Coast—Fleet of British Warships—Land in Liverpool—Assignedto Birmingham Conference—In Birmingham—Listen to an Anti-MormonLecture—Visiting from House to House as a Mormon Missionary—Placesof Interest—Transferred to Nottingham Conference—Preaching andVisiting—Mission Travels—Go to London—See Notable Places—News of myDaughter's Death—Birth of Another Daughter—Return to Nottingham.

CHAPTER LVII.

Again at Missionary Labors—Baptisms—Become Quite Ill—AppointedPresident of the Nottingham District, Embracing threeConferences—Visited by Apostles A. M. Lyman, C. C. Rich andOthers—Settling Differences among Church Members—Attend aPhrenological Lecture—Get a Chart—Go to Liverpool—In Conferenceat Nottingham—My Pastorate Enlarged—Witness a MilitaryReview—More Baptisms—Visit Sheffield—Fixing my Name—Poverty inNottingham—Invited to take a Trip to Paris—Go to London—Have togive up the Visit to France—In Poor Health—Return to Nottingham—SeeProfessor Blondin.

CHAPTER LVIII.

Prolonged Illness—Attend to my Duties with Difficulty—Letter Tellingof the Battle of Bulls Run—Witness an Execution by Hanging—Visitfrom George Q. Cannon, Joseph F. Smith and Others—Death of thePrince Consort—Go to Birmingham—Conference of the Priesthood In theBritish Mission—Large Meeting In Odd Fellows' Hall, Birmingham—Againat Nottingham—Visit Liverpool—Consult a Physician, but get littleRelief—See the Liverpool Grand National Races—Depravity Among PoorerClasses in Liverpool—Again at Nottingham—Released to Return Home—Bidthe People Farewell—Display of their Affection for me—Report of myLabors Published in the Millennial Star—On Board Ship—Placed inCharge of the Company—Sail for America—Driven by Headwinds alongthe Coasts of the Isle of Man, Wales, Ireland and Scotland—SevereSeasickness—Get to Sea—Slow Voyage—Deaths and Burials at sea—Landat New York—Guest of Hon. W. H. Hooper—Journey to Florence,Nebraska—Captain and Guide of Independent Company—Reach Salt hakeCity—Report to President Young—Again at Home.

CHAPTER LIX.

Remove from Ogden to Salt Lake City at the Request of PresidentYoung—Necessity for Preaching among the Saints—In the Employ ofPresident Young—On Another Mission, this time in Utah—-Preachingand Lecturing—Build a House—Go to the Canyon to get FinishingLumber—Shot in Mistake for a Bear—My Wound very Serious—Taken toWanship to Receive Care—My Family Notified and Surgical AssistanceObtained—Moved to my Home—In Bed Nine Months—Two SurgicalOperations—Grow Stronger—Employed at the Warm Springs—Dr.Robinson—Abscesses in my Wounded Limb—Out of Employment—Go to theCalifornia line to Examine a Gold Prospect—Perilous Journey—Indianson the Warpath—Remarkable experience with a Band of Savages—Gift ofSpeaking their Language—Unable to work the Gold Claim Because of Lackof Water—Return to Salt Lake City—Go to the Gold Discoveries on theSweetwater—Discover a Placer claim—An Attempt to Rob me of It—Bushfor a Mine—Hold the Claim—Assailed by Hostile Indians—A Race forLife—Three Men Killed—We Abandon Camp—Suffer with my Lame Limb—Losethe Mining Claim—Hauling Coal and Produce—Almost Die—Confined to Bedfor Months—Amputation of my limb to save my Life—Recovery—Attend tomy Nursery—Advent of the Railway—Traveling and Preaching—A SlightSunstroke.

CHAPTER LX.

Called on a Mission to the United States—Journey Eastward—VisitRelatives en Route—Reach New York—Measured for an ArtificialLimb—How It was Paid for—Visit and Preach—Meet PoorEncouragement—Go to Boston—World's Peace Jubilee—Bunker Hill—Againat New York—Released to Return Home—Back in Utah—Traveling andPreaching—Sent for by President Young—Called on a Mission toArizona—Directed to Furnish Names of Others—Send the List—PresidentYoung adds other Names—Set Apart for our Mission—Difficult to CollectMoney due me—Leave my Family Poorly Provided for but Trusting In theLord—Placed In Charge of the Mission—Letter of Instructions—StartSouth—People Contribute Liberally—Traveling in Storm—Arrive atKanab—In Arizona—A Hard Journey—Marriage of my Daughter—Reach Lee'sFerry on the Colorado—Crossing the River—Reach Moencoppy Wash—Decideto Winter There—Explore the Vicinity—Meet Friendly Indians—Buildinga House—Exploring the Little Colorado—A Difficult Trip—Descriptionof the Route—Find a Place for Another Settlement—San FranciscoMountains—Fine Forest Growth—Caught in Deep Snow—Through with aPerilous Journey—Decide to Return to Salt Lake City and Report—HeavySnow—Trip Homeward—Cordially Greeted by President Young—With myFamily.

CHAPTER LXI.

Attend Meetings with the First Presidency and Apostles—MoreMissionaries called to Arizona—Many Inquiries Regarding theMission—Outline the Route—Preparations for Travel—StartSouth—Aided by Contributions—Reach Moencoppy—Meet Lot Smithand Company—Baptisms—Start for the Little Colorado River—GuideMissionary Companies to the Place we had Selected for Settlement—LotSmith Refuses to Acknowledge my Appointment from President Youngas President of the Mission—He Assumes Leadership of the newSettlement—I Return with my Party to Moencoppy—Other Companies ofMissionary Settlers sustain my Presidency—My Health is Poor—SettlersDiscouraged—Cheer them up—Work of Frontier Life—Succor a Companywhose Water Supply is Exhausted—Taking up Land—Make a LongExploring Trip—Introduce Book of Mormon to Navajos—Return toMoencoppy—Indians Dissatisfied—Go to Salt Lake City with a Delegationof Navajo Chiefs—Their Supposed Grievances Settled—Tell PresidentYoung I have come Home to Stay—He Sends me out Again—Directed toProcure Volunteers—Letter of Instructions—Lecture, and take upContributions—Return Home—My Family Ill—Provide Supplies forThem—Conditions Improve.

CHAPTER LXII.

Again in Arizona—Settling Difficulties Among the People—OurReservoir Bursts—News of Notable Events—Prepare to Repel anIndian Raid—Indians Quarrel, and the Trouble Passes Over—Funeralat Moencoppy—Exploring Trip to the Southeast—A White IndianChild—Meet the Head Chief of the Navajos—His Address, andProposition to Accompany me to Salt Lake City—Agree on a Date forthe Journey—Continue my Trip Over into New Mexico, then Return toMoencoppy—Accusation Against me Disproved—Indians Gather to go toSalt Lake City—Make the Trip—At President Young's Deathbed—Visitthe Indians—Honorable Release from my Mission—Resume Home MissionaryLabors—In Prison for Conscience Sake.

CHAPTER LXIII.

Visited by President Joseph F. Smith—Called on Another Mission to theSociety Islands—Prepare To Respond—A Blessing by Apostle LorenzoSnow—Appointed to Preside over the Society Islands Mission—Attemptsto Discourage me from Undertaking the Journey—Surprise Party by myChildren—Farewell Reception In the Ward Hall—Start on my Mission,Accompanied by my Son and Others who had been Called—Voyage toTahiti—Madman on Board the Vessel—At Marquesas Islands StrangeCharacters—Tattooed White Man—His Peculiar Career—Catching Sharks—Arrive at Papeete—My Reception There—Meet Native JosephitePreachers, who seem Confused—Elders from Utah Greet us—in Poor Health.

CHAPTER LXIV.

First Sabbath in Tahiti—Meet Several Persons whom I Knew overForty Years Before—How they Remembered me—Seek Permission to holdPublic Meetings—Widow of my Old Friend, John Layton, Calls onme Other Friends—Preach to the Josephites—Governor Refuses toPermit us to Hold Public Meetings—Get Advice of the United statesConsul—A Lawyer's Counsel—Josephites tell of B. F. Grouard—IExplain how he had Turned into the wrong Path—The Church NeverDisorganized—Missionary Labors—Greeting a French Admiral—EarlyMissionaries to Tahiti—Their Severe Experiences—Sixty-fourthAnniversary of my Birth—Learn of Mormons who were Hanged forHaving Killed a Policeman in the Trouble when I was Arrested onmy First Mission to the Islands—Meet a Native of Pitcairn'sIsland—His Story—Visit Tautila—Severe Voyage—A Baptism—Sail forTubuoi—Among Strangers Celebration of a French Fete Day—Dine withthe Governor—People Become less Unfriendly to us—Breaking of theClouds—Baptize Twenty-four Persons—Encouraging Results of MissionaryEfforts.

CHAPTER LXV.

Miraculous Healing—Meet and Confound the Josephites—FurtherMissionary Success—Meet a Native who was Present when I wasSentenced to be Burned—Elder John Layton's Grave—Arrange to Returnto Tahiti—Disappointed—Preach a Funeral Sermon—Forbidden to HoldPublic Meetings—Blind Woman one Hundred and Twenty Years Old HerTestimony—Administer to her for her Eyesight, and she Is Enabled tosee a Little—She Praises the Lord—Preaching and Baptizing—Sailfor Papeete—An odd Cargo—Hard Voyage—Held by a Calm—Land onTahiti—Sail for Avaroa—On a Well-ordered Schooner—Call at VariousIslands—Lance a Carbuncle—Christmas Day at Sea—Watermelons—ABeautiful Residence and Cordial Welcome—Perform Three MarriageCeremonies—Conference of Saints in the Tuamotu Islands—Meet a NativeChilean—Visit Various Places—Public Welcome—Fishing—On the Islandof Anaa—Visit Where I was Imprisoned—Graves of those Concerned Inthe Trouble Then—Warrant Served on me—Summoned to the GovernmentHouse—Warned Against Creating a Disturbance.

CHAPTER LXVI.

Preaching and Visiting—Pearl Fishing—Place of my Arrest in1851—Accident to a Young Man—Incident with the Governor of Anaa—Seea Leper—Capture of an Eel—Conference on Anaa—Time of Dedicationof Salt Lake Temple—Specially Interesting Meetings—New Elders fromUtah—Start back to Tahiti—Another Funeral Sermon—Meet the FrenchGovernor of the Tuamotu Islands—His Cordial Greeting—Arrive atPapeete—Appointments for the New Missionaries—Fall to get a Passageto Tubuoi—My Health Very Poor—Learn of the Dedication of the SaltLake Temple—Elders Unanimous in the Decision that I should Return HomeBecause of my Illness—I Demur—Conclude to go—Trouble on Anaa—MySixty-fifth birthday—Notable Kindness of a Native child—Sail fromPapeete—Difficulty In Landing from Small Boats—In the SocietyIslands—Reach San Francisco—Arrive in Salt Lake City—Report theSuccessful Opening of the Society Islands Mission.

CHAPTER LXVII.

Invited To the Midwinter Fair, San Francisco, and Accept—Journey toCalifornia—Kind Treatment Received—An Honored Guest—Write a Pamphleton the Discovery of Gold at Sutter's Mill Race—First Accurate AccountPublished—Again at Home—Preparing my Autobiography for Publication—AGreat Task—Progress of the Work—My History of the First Mission tothe Pacific Islands—Utah's Semi-Centennial Jubilee—Not a Utah Pioneerof 1847—Pioneer Just the Same—Mormon Battalion Recognized in the UtahCelebration—Invited to join In the Parade—Comparative Narrowness ofCommittee's Courtesy—Letters from California Regarding the PioneerCelebration there in 1898—Invited with three Others of the MormonBattalion, to be Special Guests as the Survivors of the Party thatDiscovered Gold In California in 1848—Appreciation of the CourtesyExtended by Californians.

CHAPTER LXVIII.

Trip to California—Met by the Committee on Reception of the Societyof California Pioneers—Received with Great Cordiality—Honored Guestsat California's Golden Jubilee—The Celebration—Courtesies Extendedto Mormon Battalion Members Present at the Discovery of Gold—ReturnHome—Resolutions by Society of California Pioneers—Report ofReception committee of California Golden Jubilee—Sketch ofMarshall's Surviving Companions—Complete my Autobiography—My SonHomer Accidentally Killed—The Old Folks—Publication of Life of aPioneer—Conclusion.

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Portrait of James S. Brown

Fire Prepared to Roast the Missionary—Sentenced to Death

A Typical Tahitian with his Burden of Bread Fruit and Feii

A War Party of Shoshones Dancing around their Prisoners while in theChief's Lodge

Surrounded by a Pack of Hungry Wolves

Chased By a War Party

Marquesas Fire Dancers

LIFE OF A PIONEER
BEINGTHE AUTOBIOGRAPHYOF
JAMES S. BROWN.

CHAPTER I.

HOME OF THE AUTHOR—A CAREER OF THRILLING EXPERIENCES—HIS BIRTHAND PARENTAGE—EARLY AVOCATIONS—MIGRATION PROM NORTH CAROLINATO ILLINOIS—LIFE ON THE FRONTIER—DANGERS TO EARLY SETTLERS—AFRONTIERSMAN—FATHER'S ADVICE—MORE SETTLERS COME—CHURCHES ANDSCHOOLS—LIMITED OPPORTUNITIES—FROZEN FEET—UNIMPRESSIONABLE TO THEPREACHING OF THE TIME—TALK OF A NEW RELIGION, PROPHETS, MIRACLES,ETC.—PERSECUTION OF THE NEW CHURCH—"SHOWERS OF STARS"—POPULARADVERSE VIEWS OF THE MORMONS—THE MORMONS DRIVEN FROM MISSOURIINTO ILLINOIS—MORMON ELDER COMES TO PREACH—CONVERTS UNCLEJAMES BROWN—PREACHES AGAIN—PREPARATIONS TO MOB THE ELDER—HISSCRIPTURAL DOCTRINE DISCONCERTS ENEMIES AND SECURES HIM FRIENDS—HISDISCOURSE—EFFECT ON YOUNG JAMES S. BROWN OF THIS FIRST GOSPEL SERMONTO HIM—HIS TESTIMONY TO THE SPIRIT AND TRUTH OF THE ELDER'S MESSAGE.

THE subject and author of this Life-Sketch of a Pioneer is JamesStephens Brown, now (1900) in his seventy-second year, a resident ofSalt Lake City, Utah, his home less than a quarter of a mile from andwithin the summer morning's shadow of the majestic Temple of the Lorderected on that spot which he beheld a barren and desolate wilderness,on his entrance into the valley of the Great Salt Lake, over half acentury ago. His life has been one of thrilling experiences—more thanordinarily falls to the lot even of a pioneer settler in the GreatWest—a life in which hardship and perils by sea and land, among duskysavages and with white men, have contributed largely to the eventsof his career; withal one in which he has had abundant occasion torecognize and acknowledge the power and protecting care of an AlmightyProvidence.

It is at the urgent request and advice of valued friends, familiarto a considerable extent with my life and labors, that I place thisautobiography in form to be easily accessible to those desirous ofperusing it; and I am not unmindful of the fact that this simplerecital of events is not only of intense interest in numerous episodeswhich it records, but is of historic value in being a plain andtruthful narrative of the personal experiences of a western pioneer.

I was born on Independence Day, July 4, 1828, in Davidson County, NorthCarolina, U.S.A. My father was Daniel Brown; he was the youngest sonof his father's family, and was born in Rowan County, North Carolina,June 30, 1804. My father's father was James Brown, a native of RowanCounty, North Carolina, 1757 being the year of his birth. His wifewas the widow of a Revolutionary War soldier named Emerson, who waskilled in the war for American independence, leaving his wife andtwo children, Margaret and John Emerson. My grandfather James Brownmarried the widow Emerson, who bore him nine children—three sons andsix daughters—Jane, Polly, Nancy, Susan, Patsy, William, Obedience,James (captain of Company C, Mormon Battalion), and Daniel (my father);her maiden name was Mary Williams. All the family had an excellentreputation, being upright, thrifty, and good and industrious citizens.

With these introductory remarks, I will proceed to an account of myboyhood's days. I was reared at the farming and stock business, alsoat getting out saw timber and wood for cooperware. My parents hadmoved from North Carolina to Brown County, Illinois, in the autumn of1831, and had purchased an extensive tract of land. We were a largefamily; the country was then wild and with very few inhabitants, andthe climate was unhealthy; so it was with great effort that father andmother succeeded in making a home and gathering about them the comfortsof life.

We were frontier settlers, and while father had his pick of land, healso had the hardships and privations of a new country to endure. Therewere no churches or schoolhouses nearer than ten miles from our home,and grist mills and blacksmith shops were equally distant. Thus thefamily was reared without the advantage of schools, or of church-goingreligious training. But we were thoroughly acquainted with borderlife, with hunting, fishing, and all the sports indulged in by hardypioneers, and even learned to shake terribly from the ague, and burnwith fever spells, while we were well dosed with quinine and calomel,and had enormous doctor's bills to pay.

In our operations we trained horses and cattle to work, stocked our ownplows, made our own harrows, rakes and forks, braided our own whipsfrom the pelts of wild beasts which we ourselves dressed, raised ourown honey, and made our own sugar, with some to sell. We had a goodsugar orchard, and plenty of wild fruits and nuts for the gathering. Asthe first settlers of new countries are more or less subject to dangersfrom outlaws, wild beasts, and savage men, we found it important to bewell armed, and on the alert day and night to defend life and liberty.

Thus we learned the use of firearms and the tomahawk. My father wasan expert with the old Kentucky rifle, and some of his boys were notfar behind him; he trained them always to shoot with a rising sight,to keep cool, and always to have their powder dry and plenty of it. Healso taught us to tell the truth, and used to say: "Be honest, stand upfor your rights, and fight for your country and friends."

In the year 1835, people began to settle in around us, and then thecircuit riders, as they were called—the ministers—commenced to callaround and hold meetings in private houses. There were Baptists,Freewill Baptists, Methodists, Campbellites, and others. From 1836 to1838 some small churches and schoolhouses were built, so that we beganto get spiritual food, such as it was; and also some schooling, withthe benefit of the hickory rod that always was kept "in soak," so tospeak, and woe to the unruly student when it was called into service!

So far as the author is concerned, he managed to get along without therod the short time he was permitted to attend school. He was kept closeat work on the farm in summer, and in the winter months was engagedgetting out timber and hauling to market the farm products. Once hisfeet were frozen so that he lost every nail from his toes. As to thereligious teachings of the time, there was a great deal of thunderingand thundering, but it failed to indicate any lightening of theauthor's path, for he fished and hunted on the Sabbath day, just thesame.

Some time in the '30s we began to hear a little about false prophets, anew religion, miracles, money-diggers, thieves, liars, miracle-workers,deceivers, witches, speaking in tongues and interpretation of the same,walking on the water, and visits from angels. As time went on, allthese things were combined to form a grand excuse for raising mobs toexpel the new Church from the borders of civilization. Then came newsof murder, rapine, house-burning, and destruction of towns and citiesin Missouri. There were great "showers" of stars in the firmamentabout this time. On popular rumor, and from hearing only one side ofthe story, almost everybody decided that such a previously unheard-ofpeople as the Mormons ought to be shot or burned at the stake. This wasthe sentiment to be found on every hand.

As a culmination of these things came the tidings that the Missourianshad driven the Mormons from the state of Missouri into Illinois. Alittle later, and a Latter-day Saint Elder named Jacob Pfoutz enteredthe neighborhood of my Uncle James Brown's home, converted him, hiswife, and several of the neighbors. This Elder was brought down by myuncle to see his two sisters, Aunts Polly and Nancy Brown.

Elder Pfoutz was given permission to preach in the schoolhouse aboutthree miles from my father's house. The news spread like a prairie firethat the Mormons had come and would preach on Friday. I think this wasin the autumn of 1840. I was at my aunt's at the time, and decided togo and hear the strange preacher. Like most of the people, I went outof curiosity, more than anything else. I had just turned my twelfthyear, and had begun to take some interest in religion, going to everymeeting for which I could obtain permission from my parents, yet notthinking for a moment but that all religions were right.

At the first meeting held by the Mormon, the house was pretty wellfilled. Some who attended did so with the thought that after theservices were over they would tar and feather the Elder and ride him ona rail, as such things had been indulged in in Missouri, and threatshad been made freely. Others were going to confound him, and stillothers wanted to see the fun, as they said.

The preacher was a plain-spoken man of thirty-five to forty years old,of German descent. He was plainly dressed, and without that urbanepolish which ministers usually have. When he began his discourse,he raised up very calmly and deliberately and read from Matthew,seventh chapter, verses fifteen to twenty. He spoke from that textand corroborating passages, supporting his argument throughout byscripture. At the conclusion of his address, some of the people saidthey did not want to mob a man who preached like that, while others"sniffed" their noses and tried to get up a sneering laugh, but failed.The Elder was invited to my aunt's house and was granted permission topreach on Sunday in their oak-grove, while several of the religiouslyinclined followed him to his stopping place and plied him withquestions.

As to myself, it seemed that I had not only heard it thunder, but Ihad seen the lightning and felt it through every fibre of my system,from the crown of my head to the soles of my feet. I was revived asthe showers of heaven revive the parched earth and impart life tothe languishing vegetation. Notwithstanding the fact that I knewthe Latter-day Saints, or Mormons, were looked upon as filth, infact as even worse than rubbish, that they had been called the veryoff-scourings of the earth, that they were regarded as deserving to beput to death, yet from that very day I received their doctrine in or bythe spirit.

Now that sixty years have rolled by since the events here narrated;that I have passed through mobbings, robbings, fines and penalties;have been banished and once sentenced to death; Paul-like have foughtwith wild beasts, have been shipwrecked and almost starved; havefamished on thirsty deserts; have had the scalping-knife wielded overmy head while the Indian warwhoop saluted my ears and the savagewarrior danced with tomahawk in hand, exulting over the victim intendedto be slain and scalped in trophy of victory; have laid in dungeonsfor my religion's sake—thanks be to God that I yet live and bear afaithful testimony of the truth and spirit that possessed my soul fromthat first Gospel sermon I ever heard. I have listened to ministers ofvarious Christian denominations advocate good and virtuous principles,but I never knew any of them to preach the fullness of the Gospel ofthe Lord Jesus as did that humble Mormon Elder.

CHAPTER II.

PERSECUTED BY PLAYMATES—GIVE THEM AN EFFECTIVE CHECK—FIGHTWITH WILD BEASTS—PARENTS JOIN THE MORMONS—THE AUTHOR HOLDSBACK—ASSASSINATION OF JOSEPH AND HYRUM SMITH—MORMONS LEAVE ILLINOISFOR THE WEST—EXCITING TIMES—MY WINTER'S WORK—FATHER DECIDES TOWAIT A WHILE BEFORE LEAVING ILLLNOIS—MY DETERMINATION TO GO WITH THEMORMONS—CONFIDE A SECRET TO MY MOTHER—A NEW CONSULTATIONS—CHANGE INTHE FAMILY PLANS—FATHER PREPARES TO START—GIVES ME PERMISSION TOGO—THINKS OF LEAVING ME BECAUSE OF MY ILLNESS—I FEEL TO PREFER DEATHTO BEING LEFT BEHIND.

FROM the very day my parents entertained the Latter-day Saint Elders intheir house my former playmates in the neighborhood commenced a crusadeon me, calling me a Mormon, and many hard names, whenever they met me.When we gathered at the mill pond, our usual place of bathing, theywould baptize me, as they called it, in the name of Beelzebub; but Icalled it drowning, for it seemed to me that when three or four of themgot me under the water they never knew when to let me up. Then when Igot out of the water they would mockingly "lay hands" on me in the nameof Beelzebub, going through a ceremony and at short intervals calling"Pluck," when they would pull my hair with a severe twitch, and wouldspit on me and laugh. Once my clothes were taken and thrown into a bedof itching nettles, and when I tried to get them out with a pole I waspushed in among the nettles. At the gristmill, also, they would punishme in a shameful manner. At last I became so provoked that I went afterthem with a strong jack-knife. Though some of them were eighteen ornineteen years old, they ran off, fully convinced that I would havehurt them if I could have caught them. The miller interposed and gavethem a severe reprimand. From that time they never tried to punishme. My medicine had worked well, and thereafter I was looked on as aleading boy among them.

During this period I had some perilous experiences with wild animals.My father had a pet deer, and a bulldog owned by the family caughtit by the nose; I tried to get the dog off, when the frighteneddeer kicked and tore my clothes almost off, lacerating my fleshconsiderably. Soon after this the deer was followed, in the woods nearthe house, by a large buck, which my father shot. The animal's shoulderwas broken, and I followed it to the millpond and sprang into the waterto hold it. As I seized its horn the buck, which had a footing, threwme around, lacerating my left hand considerably. For a time my lifewas in peril from the wild animal, but I struggled and finally used mypocket knife on its throat. Some time after this episode a man namedJohn Bos shot and wounded a big buck near our home. It being night, hecame to the house for assistance, and father and I went out. The dogsreached the buck, which charged on them, and as it was seized by thenose by one of them father and I caught the buck's hind feet. It kickedus free, and I had a close call from being severely if not fatallyhurt; but we returned to the attack, and finally secured the game.

As time went on the older people in our neighborhood took interest inthe Mormon Elders, and some of them joined the new Church, while othersbecame very intolerant and hostile. My parents and my eldest brotherand sister united with the Mormons; yet I held back, for though fullyin sympathy with what my relatives had done I did not consider myselfworthy to join, for I thought that to be a church member I must havesome great experience and see great lights, such as I had heard peopletestify of. Thus I stayed out and watched developments.

Finally, in July, 1844, the news reached us that the Prophet JosephSmith and his brother Hyrum, the Patriarch, had been assassinatedin Carthage jail by a mob; also, that the Mormons had been orderedto leave the state, and were going either to the Rocky Mountains,California, or Vancouver Island. In fact, there were many kinds ofrumors afloat, and there was great excitement.

In the fall of 1845 permission was given me to go to a river town fivemiles from home, to work at a slaughter and packing house, where mycousin, Homer Jackson, and I got employment that season. We heard thatthe Mormons were going to start west the next spring—in fact, theirpurpose was a topic of frequent conversation. We returned home in thelatter part of January, 1846, and soon learned that the Church leaderswere leaving Nauvoo for a new home in the unknown western wilds, andthat every true Mormon was expected to join them as soon as possible.

Shortly after this, father called a family meeting to consider whatto do. It was a great venture to start out with a large family ona journey of a thousand miles or more into an unknown wilderness,among savage tribes; so after long discussion of the matter, it wasdecided to be too great an undertaking at that particular time. It wasregarded as inadvisable to take the chances of starving to death in thewilderness. Besides, property was very low, and it was folly to sellout a good home at so great a sacrifice as seemed necessary.

When this decision was reached, father turned to me and said: "Well,Jimmy, what do you think about it?" I answered that where the Mormonswent I would go, and where they died I would die. This was the firsttime I had been asked a question, and as I was not a member of theChurch my reply surprised the others. Being inquired of as to how Iwould go, I suggested that perhaps someone wanted a teamster, or maybethere was some widow who would take a boy for his labor in returnfor food and clothing. Father asked if I would leave the family andgo out west and starve; and he suggested that as I did not belong tothe Mormons they would not have me. To this I said I would join them,and that my mind was made up to go with the Mormons at all hazards.Then father ordered me to keep quiet, saying he would thrash me if Italked of leaving home. This closed the discussion, for in those daysthrashing was the great panacea for disobedience, whether at home orin the school room. But that threat clinched my resolve to go with theMormons even at the risk of life, for I was thoroughly satisfied of thejustice of their cause.

I said no more then, but at the first opportunity told my mother thatsoon I would come up missing, as I was going with the Mormons, andshould hide if searched for, if I had to go among the Indians. Mothersaid I would starve, but my reply was that I could live on what othersdid. My mother was convinced that I would go, and her mother's heartwas as so touched that she could not withhold my secret from my father,who believed, too, that I would do as I had said.

One evening, soon afterward, I overheard them talking of the matter.Father said it would break up the family if they did not move west, forJim certainly would go; they were satisfied that the Mormon doctrineswere true, and thought that perhaps they had better make an effort tosell out and move. My heart was filled with joy at these words.

When morning came, father set out to buy oxen, and was successful. Healso sold his farm but reserved the crop, as he had to wait till afterharvest for part of his pay for the land. He thought that by fittingout two good teams, and providing wagons and tools, he and AlexanderStephens (mother's brother) and two of his sisters (old maids), andmyself could go out into Iowa, where we could put in some corn andbuild a cabin or two. Then my uncle and I could do the rest whilefather returned, took care of the harvest, and brought up the family,when we would follow the Church as best we could until a resting placewas found.

The way now seemed open. My father felt encouraged, and all went welluntil a few days before the time for starting, when I was stricken downwith fever and ague, and shook or chilled every other day till thefirst of May, at which time all was ready for moving. Efforts were madeto persuade me that I could not stand the journey, but should allow oneof the other boys to go in my stead. But I could not see it in thatlight. While father was talking of the matter to mother I overheardhim say, "We will have to let James go, for he will not be satisfiedwithout, but he will get enough of it when he has had a few days, andhas camped out and shaken a few times with the ague." I thought tomyself, "You are mistaken, father, for I would rather die than be leftbehind."

CHAPTER III.

START FOR NAUVOO—TAKEN SEVERELY ILL—THE LORD ANSWERS MY PRAYERFOR RELIEF—PASS THROUGH CARTHAGE—IN NAUVOO "THE BEAUTIFUL,"BUT ALMOST DESERTED CITY—SCENE ON THE IOWA SHORE—CROSS THEMISSISSIPPI—CURIOUS MAKE-UP OF THE EXILES' TEAMS—THE BAD ROADS—STUCKIN THE MUD—REPAIRING CAMPS—GOOD ORDER MAINTAINED—UNNECESSARY KILLINGOF GAME FORBIDDEN—REACH GRAND RIVER AND PUT IN A CROP—LEARN OF THECALL FOR THE MORMON BATTALION—APOSTLES AS RECRUITING OFFICERS—CALLFOR VOLUNTEERS—RESPONSE BY THE CAMP—RECEIVED INTO THE CHURCH BYBAPTISM—FILLED WITH THE LOVE OF THE GOSPEL—GET THE SPIRIT TOENLIST—CONSULT WITH MY RELATIVES AND EZRA T. BENSON—AN ELDER'SPROMISE—JOIN THE MORMON BATTALION.

MAY 1st, 1846, was a pleasant day, and we made our start for Nauvoo,passing through Versailles to a point some ten miles from home to thefirst night's camp. I was encouraged to think I had kept so well, butabout ten o'clock the second day I began to shake, and my teeth fairlyto crack. I prayed earnestly to the Lord to heal me. I was quite weak,and all thought me very sick. But that was the last "shake" I had, forI began to get well from that time.

It was on May 4th, I believe, that we reached Nauvoo, having passedthrough Mount Sterling, the county seat of Brown County, also throughCarthage, where the Prophet Joseph Smith and his brother the PatriarchHyrum Smith had been assassinated. We found the roads so muddy and suchhard traveling that we did not make more than fifteen miles a day. Whenwe came in sight of the Temple at Nauvoo our hearts were filled withmingled joy and sorrow—joy that we had seen the Temple of the Lord,and sorrow that the Saints had been so cruelly driven from it.

As we passed through the city we saw many houses which had beenabandoned—indeed, the city itself seemed almost deserted. At some ofthe houses stood covered wagons, into which people were packing goodspreparatory to their flight into the wilderness, they knew not where.

Looking westward across the great Mississippi River, we saw long trainsof wagons strung out over the high rolling prairie. The country wasnew, and the roads muddy, so we rested three or four days, visiting theTemple and viewing the city that was beautiful for situation, but nowwas left with few inhabitants. Everything in and about the city thatformerly hummed with industry and life was now lonely, saddened, andforlorn, and silent but for the preparations for flight by the remnanttherein.

About the 8th of May we crossed the great "father of waters" andjoined the "rolling kingdom" on its westward journey. We found friendsand acquaintances, made up a company of our own, and passed and wererepassed on the trip. Climbing an eminence from which we looked eastand west, covered wagons could be seen as far as the eye could reach.The teams were made up of oxen, milch cows, two-year-old steers andheifers, and very few horses and mules. The teamsters were of bothsexes, and comprised young and old. The people who could walk did so,and many were engaged in driving loose stock.

Hundreds of teams stuck in the mud, and we had to double-up and helpone another out. Many times we had to wade in mud half to our knees andlift our wagons out of the mire. In this the women not infrequentlywould join their husbands and sons, and the old adage came true innumerous instances—women for a dead lift; when they plunged into themud and put their shoulders to the wheels the men were urged to dodouble effort, and the wagon always rolled out and onward, at the rateof twelve to fifteen miles per day.

At every creek we found campers, some repairing wagons, yokes, chains,etc., doctoring sick cattle, washing clothes, or helping forwardfriends whose teams were weak. In all this there was excellent order,for the camps were organized in a general way by tens, fifties andhundreds. Peace and harmony prevailed all along the line. Eveningprayers were attended to in each camp. There was much singing, mostlyof sacred hymns or sentimental songs; and from no quarter could coarsesongs be heard. Sometimes the camp would meet in a sociable dance inthe evenings, to drive dull care away; and then there always was goodorder and the most perfect friendship and peace.

The camps were instructed not to kill game of any kind to waste itsflesh; they were not even to kill a snake on the road, for it was theircalling to establish peace on earth, and good will toward man andbeast. Thus all went on in peace and order.

At one of the headwaters of the Grand River, Iowa, we found somehundreds of people putting in gardens and field crops (corn andpotatoes). A few cabins had been built, so father and our party decidedto stop there. We put in a few acres of corn and garden stuff, thenfather returned to Illinois to bring up the rest of the family, leavingmy Uncle Alexander Stephens and myself to look after the crop andstock, which we did faithfully.

About the 6th of July we heard that President Young and several of theTwelve Apostles had returned from the most advanced companies, andthat there would be a meeting held at the white oak grove—the usualplace of meeting—the next day. There was also a rumor in camp that agovernment recruiting officer had come to enlist volunteers, for theUnited States had declared war against Mexico.

Of course this latter tidings was a great surprise, as the Mormons hadbeen denied protection against mob violence and had been forced beyondthe borders of civilization in the United States, and our camps werestretched out in an Indian country, from the Mississippi River to theMissouri. Surprised as we were at the government's demand, we werestill more so to think that our leaders would entertain for a momentthe idea of encouraging compliance therewith. Yet rumor said thatPresident Young and the prominent men with him had come as recruitingofficers as well.

All who could be spared from the tents went eagerly to the White Oakgrove, and there learned that the rumors were true. The United Statesgovernment demanded that a battalion of five hundred men be raisedby the Mormon Church, then fleeing from mob violence for the want ofprotection by that government whose right and duty it was to protectthem. The men of the moving camp were required to leave their familiesin the wilderness, almost unprotected, and go to a foreign land tofight their country's battles.

But wonders never cease. The leading men among the Mormons—BrighamYoung, Heber C. Kimball, Wilford Woodruff, and others of the TwelveApostles—stood before the people and called for volunteers to engagein the Mexican war, saying that the five hundred men must be raised ifit took the whole strength of the camp to do it. If the young men wouldnot enlist, the middle-aged and old men would, said President Young;the demand of our country should be met if it took the Twelve Apostlesand the High Priests.

At the close of the meeting there were many who were enthused, whileothers appeared confused and did not seem to catch the spirit ofthe matter. I was not yet a member of the Church, but all the oldstories of the war of the Revolution and that of 1812, with the laterBlack Hawk Indian wars, brightened in my memory so that the spiritof the patriots awoke within me, and although I was averse to warand bloodshed, I had a desire to serve my country in any legitimateway. Yet I felt that, as I was under age, and, as my Uncle AlexanderStephens had decided to enlist, the responsibility of my father'saffairs now rested on me.

My uncle and I were standing by the roadside talking over thesituation, when along came Ezra T. Benson, who had been recentlyselected as one of the Twelve Apostles; there also came RichmondLouder, one of my associates from boyhood, and Matthew Caldwell.Richmond Louder and I had talked previously of being baptized together.He said they were going down to attend to that sacred ordinance, andinvited me to accompany them, which I did gladly. We went to the southfork of the Grand River, and with Uncle A. Stephens as a witness werebaptized. This was on the 7th of July, 1846. Then we went to the houseof General Charles C. Rich, where we were confirmed, I think under thehands of Elders Willard Richards and Ezra T. Benson, in the presence ofPresident Brigham Young and others of the Twelve Apostles.

This done, the happiest feeling of my life came over me. I thought Iwould to God that all the inhabitants of the earth could experiencewhat I had done as a witness of the Gospel. It seemed to me that, ifthey could see and feel as I did, the whole of humankind would joinwith us in one grand brotherhood, and the universe would be preparedfor the great Millennial morn.

When we returned to camp, my aunts partook of the same feeling thathad filled me. Then I got the spirit to enlist, and after a shortconsultation with those most concerned they advised me to lay thematter before Ezra T. Benson. Accordingly, the next morning Uncle A.Stephens and I went over to the grove. I told the Elder my feelings,and the responsibilities left upon me by my father. Elder Benson saidthe Spirit's promptings to me were right, and I had started right. Hetold me to go on, saying I would be blessed, my father would findno fault with me, his business would not suffer, and I would never besorry for the action I had taken or for my enlistment. Every word hesaid to me has been fulfilled to the very letter.

Uncle Alexander Stephens and I then went to a tent where men weregiving in their names as volunteers. We handed in our names, and wereenrolled as members of the historic Mormon Battalion.

CHAPTER IV.

START FOR THE BATTALION RENDEZVOUS—A JOURNEY OF HARDSHIP—IN THEMORMONS' CAMP ON THE MISSOURI RIVER—FIRST EXPERIENCES IN THEARMY—BLESSED BY APOSTLES—PROPHETIC ADDRESS BY PRESIDENT BRIGHAMYOUNG—THE BATTALION STARTS ON ITS LONG JOURNEY—DOING CAMPDUTY—HEAVY STORMS AND INSUFFICIENT RATIONS—HARD EXPERIENCES—AT FORTLEAVENWORTH—MEXICAN MULES AS A CURE FOR EGOTISM—COLONEL ALLEN TAKENILL—ON THE SANTA FE ROAD—SUFFERING FROM THIRST—SICKNESS AMONG THETROOPS—DR. G.B. SANDERSON, A TYRANNICAL QUACK—ARMY MERCHANTS—ORDEROF MARCHING.

IT was about one o'clock in the afternoon of July 9 when we bade ourfriends an affectionate farewell, and started on what we understood tobe a journey of one hundred and thirty-eight miles, to join the armyof the United States at our country's call. We had provisions enoughput up to last us on our trip. The night previous our old clotheshad received the necessary repairs. Our preparations were hasty andincomplete, for we had been told (by an unauthorized person, as weafterwards learned) that when we got to Sarpy's Point, on the MissouriRiver, we would draw uniforms, clothing, blankets, and rations, andwould have to cast aside our old clothes.

Our initial trip was begun without a blanket to wrap ourselves in,as we thought we could find shelter in the camps along the line ofmarch. But in this we were mistaken, for everybody seemed to haveall they could do to shelter their own. The first night we camped onthe bank of a small stream, where we fell in with twelve or fifteenother volunteers who had not so much as a bit of bread, but plenty ofassurance in asking for what others had. We divided with them, thenscraped what leaves we could and laid down thereon, with a chunk ofwood for our pillow. Next morning we divided our last morsel of foodwith what we learned later were the very roughest element of thebattalion.

For five days we journeyed, much of the time in heavy rain and deepmud, sleeping on the wet ground without blankets or other kind ofbedding, and living on elm bark and occasionally a very small rationof buttermilk handed to us by humane sisters as we passed their tents.We thought our experience was pretty rough, but I do not remember thatI heard murmuring from the lips of anyone, for we felt that we were inthe service of God and our country.

When we reached the Missouri River we found that some four hundred menhad rendezvoused there. In the camps of the Latter-day Saints, closeby, there were some thousands of men, women and children; a brushbowery had been erected, where the people met for religious worship.We soon found friends who welcomed us to camp, and we were invited toa social dance and farewell party. We had excellent music, the bestdinner that the country could afford, and, above all, a spirit ofbrotherly love and union that I have never seen surpassed. With all onthe altar of sacrifice for God and His kingdom and for our country, itseemed that everything and everybody looked to the accomplishment ofone grand, common cause, not a dissenting voice being heard from anyone.

July 16, 1846, we were mustered into the service of the United States,and, under command of Col. James Allen, marched down the bluffs to theMissouri bottoms, where we camped in a cottonwood grove. Some flourand other provisions were issued to us, and we peeled the bark offa tree for a bread tray or kneading trough. Some rolled their dougharound sticks and stuck or held it before the fire, and others bakedtheir bread in the ashes; for we had not yet drawn any camp equipage.We received one blanket apiece, and had that charged up, the amount tobe taken out of our pay.

I am not writing a history of the Mormon Battalion, but am relating myindividual experiences in that detachment of the United States army, asI recollect them; so it will not be expected of me to tell much of whatothers saw, or to narrate events as they remember them, but as theyimpressed themselves upon my mind at the time of occurrence.

Just before our last farewell to friends at the Missouri River, andpreparatory to taking up our line of march, we were formed into ahollow square, and President Brigham Young, with Heber C. Kimball andothers of the Apostles, came to our camp, rode into the square, andgave us parting blessings and instructions. The words of PresidentYoung, as they fastened themselves upon my memory, were in substance asfollows: "Now, brethren, you are going as soldiers at your country'scall. You will travel in a foreign land, in an enemy's country; andif you will live your religion, obey your officers, attend to yourprayers, and as you travel in an enemy's land, hold sacred the propertyof the people, never taking anything that does not belong to you onlyin case of starvation; though you may be traveling in an enemy'scountry, do not disturb fruit orchards or chicken coops or beehives, donot take anything but what you pay for—although it is customary forsoldiers to plunder their enemies in time of war, it is wrong—alwaysspare life when possible; if you obey this counsel, attending toyour prayers to the Lord, I promise you in the name of the Lord Godof Israel that not one soul of you shall fall by the hands of theenemy. You will pass over battlefields; battles will be fought in yourfront and in your rear, on your right hand and on your left, and yourenemies shall flee before you. Your names shall be held in honorableremembrance to the latest generation."

Heber C. Kimball and other prominent men of the Church confirmed whatPresident Young had said, and all bade us an affectionate farewell,with "God bless you and spare your lives."

Thus we set out in good cheer on our journey of more than two thousandmiles in a section of the continent wholly unknown to us.

In the month of July, from about the 20th, we passed down through thetowns and villages along the river, for two hundred miles, to FortLeavenworth. The heat was excessive, and the roads dusty, when westarted out. A great part of the way we had only a small ration offood, for it did not seem to be in the country, and we suffered muchfrom want. We took regular turns in standing guard around the camp andin herding the stock. Heavy rains came on, and for several days wepressed forward amid such terrible storms as I never had experiencedbefore. With less than half rations, and that badly or insufficientlycooked, from lack of proper utensils and experience, and having to lieon the ground without any bedding save one blanket each, it is a wonderthe entire camp were not down sick instead of a few. But with all thishardship there were no desertions and few complaints. Everything seemedto move harmoniously among the men.

The command crossed the river at Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, and soonafterwards we drew a tent to each mess of six men. This afforded usgreat relief at nights, protecting us from the dews and rain; but inthe daytime the whiteness of the tents seemed to intensify the heat sothat there was no comfort in them. While at Fort Leavenworth we washedour old clothing and made ourselves as comfortable as possible. Soon wedrew camp equipage and rations from the government. We got flintlockmuskets, and accoutrements consisting of bayonets, cartridge-boxes,straps and belts, canteens, haversacks, etc., also a knapsack each.We drew our first pay, forty-two dollars each, sent part of it to ourfamilies, and fitted ourselves out with new clothes and shoes.

With all the paraphernalia of soldiers, we seemed so burdened as tobe able neither to run nor to fight. Then to be obliged to travel allday under a broiling sun, or in driving rain or fierce winds, acrosssandy deserts and over trackless mountains, going sometimes sixty toninety miles without water, in an enemy's country—kind reader, youmay picture such scenes in your imagination, but it is impossible foryou to realize the conditions except by actual experience therein.It is equally impossible for me to find language to describe fitlythe situation at that time at the United States military post of FortLeavenworth.

The place being an outfitting station for United States forces in thewar with Mexico, all was bustle and activity; steamboats were unloadingmaterial, and teams filled the streets; many of the new recruitswere very rough indeed, and drinking and fighting seemed to be theirpastime; myself and companions were amazed and shocked at the profaneand vulgar language and vile actions that we were compelled to listento and witness; with all else, squads of soldiers were being drilled,the bugle sound was frequent, as were also the beating of the drum andthe playing of the fife; everywhere the men were preparing for victoryor death, and many were so reckless they did not seem to care whichcame.

As our battalion was preparing quietly for the great march before us,a band of very small Mexican mules was brought in to be used as teamsin our transportation department. The animals were unaccustomed toharness, and very wild, so there was a detail of men from each companyassigned to do the harnessing. It fell to my lot to engage in the work,and great was my surprise to see one of those little mules draggingthree to five men about the yards. I thought I was able to handle oneof the little long-eared animals myself, but had the conceit taken outof me in quick order by having my hands burned with the rope, as Iwas jerked and dragged about in fertilizer in the yards—there beingan abundance there. But we accomplished our work, with some sport andconsiderable cost to our patience and muscular energy.

From the 10th to the 15th of August, companies A, B, and C moved out onthe Santa Fe road, and in two or three days were followed by companiesD and E. Our esteemed colonel, James Allen, having been taken ill,ordered Captain Jefferson Hunt of company A to take command until thecolonel should recover and settle up the business of outfitting thebattalion.

Our route lay over rolling hills, through some timbered country andsome prairie. The weather was warm, and there was much suffering,especially from lack of drinking water, this being scarce. The sickfelt the hardship particularly, and there was quite a number down withchills and fever; such water as was obtainable was of poor quality,warm and unhealthy, and added to the number of the sick.

Each company had a large wagon and three or four yoke of oxen to haulthe tents and camp equipage, and one issue of rations, I think it wasfor one week. The government had assigned a doctor to our command,George B. Sanderson of Platte County, Missouri. He proved to be socruel and tyrannical as to incur the ill-will of every man in thecommand. He had immediate charge of the hospital wagons, and no matterhow ill a man was, he was not allowed to ride in the company's wagonuntil he had reported to this cruel quack, who had to be honored withthe title of physician and surgeon. With his permission a man wasallowed to crawl into his company's wagon, which was filled nearly tothe bows with tents and other camp equipage. Sometimes there would befive or six crowded in together, some shaking with ague and othersburning with fever. Our company wagon was called the Gray Eagle; JohnGilbert was the teamster, and did all in his power to favor those ofhis comrades who deserved it.

Besides the company and hospital wagons, there were sutlers' ormerchants' wagons—speculators that are permitted to follow the armyfor what they can make off the troops. They carry in stock suchthings as they know from experience the soldier most needs, and manyluxuries; they had almost everything to entice the famishing soldier,who had to stand guard over them and their stores. Many times, throughhardships, we seemed compelled to patronize them. Our suffering wastheir opportunity, and they were not slow to take advantage of it.Their prices were enormous, and their bills never failed to reach thepaymaster by each payday; after these were paid, the soldier came infor the balance, if there was any. Some were very unfortunate throughsickness, and had to patronize the sutler, or merchant; others wereunwise in their purchases; and thus the eight dollars a month wagesoften was spent before it was earned.

Our commissary and ammunition department included over a hundredwagons; the three or four pieces of artillery followed close in ourrear, in charge of a wagonmaster and assistants.

The usual order of marching, as I remember it, was: an advance guard;then the colonel and his staff; next came the body of the command; thena rearguard, the baggage and hospital wagons, etc. Only on specialoccasions was the main body of the battalion permitted to march atwill, as long as it remained between the front and rear guards. Whenthe country was specially rough, and roads had to be made, the roadhands, or, in military language, the sappers and miners, were allowedextra rations, and had to start out very early with the advance guard.

CHAPTER V.

CROSSING OF THE KAW RIVER—INDIAN FARMERS—FIERCE STORM ON STONE COALCREEK—CROSSING A CREEK WITH PRECIPITOUS BANKS—RUINS OF AN ANCIENTCITY—WAGONLOAD OF SICK UPSET IN A STREAM—SAD NEWS OF COL. ALLEN'SDEATH—DISPUTE OVER HIS SUCCESSOR—MILITARY RULES DISREGARDED INSETTLING THE QUESTION—TROOPS DISSATISFIED—SICKNESS IN CAMP—HARSHNESSOF THE NEW COMMANDER, LIEUTENANT COLONEL SMITH—BRUTALITY OF THEDOCTOR—DOSES OF OBJECTIONABLE MEDICINE IN AN OLD IRON SPOON—IN THECOMANCHE INDIAN COUNTRY—ABUSE FROM LIEUTENANT COLONEL SMITH—SCARCITYOF FUEL—BUFFALO CHIPS—COOKING FOOD UNDER GREAT DIFFICULTIES—INCREASEOF SICKNESS—UP THE GRAND VALLEY OF THE ARKANSAS—DETACHMENT OF SICKSENT TO PUEBLO—MIRAGES—HERDS OF BUFFALO—ON THE SICK LIST—REACH THEROCKY MOUNTAINS—PREHISTORIC RUINS—IN MEXICAN VILLAGES—ARRIVAL ATSANTA FE.

WE crossed the Kaw River about the 17th of August, being ferried overin flat boats by some half civilized Delaware and Shawnee Indians.Where we crossed the river it was from three to four hundred yardswide. The country in the neighborhood seemed to be well adapted tofarming. The Indians had good crops of corn and watermelons, and knewas well as white men how to charge for them. These Indians were anintelligent-looking people, having log cabins for dwellings.

From the Kaw we traveled to Spring Creek, over a beautiful country, andthere joined the companies that had preceded us. We met with rainstormsthat made it very disagreeable for us at night, when two of us wouldspread one blanket and lie down on it. It would wet through at once;and though we had tents over us, we often slept on the wet ground, inwet clothes.

Moving onward to Stone Coal Creek, we there endured one of the severeststorms of wind and rain that any of us ever had experienced. Nearlyevery tent was blown down; several government wagons were overturned,and others were sent rolling before the wind as though they wereexpress or stage coaches; many men fell on their faces and held tothe shrubbery to avoid being carried away by the violence of thehurricane, while others not so fortunate as to be able to catch holdof a shrub were driven some rods before the blast. Some were bruisedand others badly frightened, but none received serious injury; andalthough everybody was thoroughly soaked, not even the sick seemed tobe unfavorably affected in health by their experience.

The storm over and our clothing dried, we resumed our march. Coming toa deep creek with precipitous banks, we had to hold the wagons backwith ropes and let them down gradually to the bed of the stream; thena number of men with ropes, on the opposite side, assisted the teamsin drawing the wagons up the steep bank. We passed over some very fineland to a place we named Allen's Grove, and camped. Next day we cameto the ruins of a city of the dim, distant past; the stone walls wereyet visible to the traveler. That night we rested on Beaver Creek. Onthe 25th or 26th, while traveling through a beautiful country of richsoil, one wagon with five or six people was upset into a creek, andthe occupants received a dangerous ducking, though I do not recall anyserious results following.

It was on this day that a messenger from Fort Leavenworth overtook us,bringing the sorrowful news of the death of our esteemed commander,Colonel James Allen. It was a sad blow to us, for all had learned torespect, and, indeed, even to love him. Yet I have felt sometimes thatit was a kind providence to him that he was taken from us, for hisnature was too kind and sympathetic to have forced his men through whatthe Mormon Battalion had to endure before reaching its destination.

Colonel Allen's death left a vacancy in the command that was notdifficult to fill according to military rules, as the next officerin rank should have occupied his place. But plain as is the militarylaw on the subject, there arose a dispute, and much feeling wasworked up. The council of officers decided that, as Captain JeffersonHunt of company A had been placed in charge by Colonel Allen till thelatter should rejoin the command, he should continue in that position.Accordingly, he led the battalion to Council Grove, where it waslearned that Lieutenant Colonel Smith was on the way, intending toassume command. Thus the quiet of the camp was again disturbed, andmuch feeling manifested. There were many warm discussions between theofficers and among the soldiers as well.

It was at Council Grove that Lieutenant Colonel Smith, Major Walker,and G. B. Sanderson overtook us. The question of command was furtherdiscussed, Captain Hunt standing up for his rights. But in the council,Captain Nelson Higgins of Company D (my company) moved that Smithshould be recognized as the commanding officer; this was seconded byCaptain Davis of Company E; all the officers but three, viz.: LaronClark, Samuel Gully, and Wesley W. Willis, voted for the motion, andthe question was settled. Lieutenant Colonel A. J. Smith took command,to the disgust of the soldiers, a large majority of whom, if not all,were quite dissatisfied. Next day we reached Diamond Springs, where thebattalion was inspected by Lieutenant Colonel Smith.

At this time there was much sickness in camp, chills and fever andmumps. This condition was produced by frequent changes of drinkingwater, and by poorly-cooked food, as many times we had to depend ondry weeds for fuel. When a man became sick, it had been the custom forhim to crawl into the company wagon. Our new commander soon droppedon the kindness of the teamster, and put an end to it without mercy.The commander was so rough and ungentle, and had so much pomposity andassurance, that the whole command was disgusted, and almost all wereangry. He ordered the sick out of the wagons, and directed that beforethey could ride they must be reported by the doctor as unable to walk,and had to take a dose of the doctor's drugs from his old rusty spoon.We soon began to realize that we had fallen into bad hands.

The doctor often talked to the men as though they were brutes. He wasvery unfeeling, and the men would not respond to his sick call ("Jimalong, Josey") when it was possible for them to walk alone. When westopped he would sit in front of his tent with his book on his knee, along chest of medicine before him, a colored man for his body servant,and a hospital steward standing in front of the wagon. At sick call,everyone who could not walk had to be taken before the doctor's tent,and there be seated or laid down, sometimes on the wet ground, then,like going to a mill, wait for his grist, or dose of calomel. Therewas not much chance to miss it, for, when a man's name was called andresponded to, the hospital steward was ordered to give him such andsuch a dose, and the old iron spoon, with its contents of we knewnot what, was presented in the presence of the doctor. Under thesecircumstances we began to feel at least the rigors of military rule.

About this time we entered the Comanche Indian country, and onSeptember 2 camped on Cottonwood Creek. The Indians were said to bevery hostile, yet we had no trouble with them. I think it was here thatwe began to see signs of buffalo, and the prairie dog villages. Timberwas very scarce, and the country was more uninviting than that we hadpassed over.

Shortly after Lieutenant Colonel Smith took command we were drawn upin line, and some military laws were read to us. At the end of almostevery sentence there was the word death, as punishment for infractionof the law. We were then talked to in a most offensive and domineeringmanner, until some of us began to wonder what we had done to merit suchseverity and downright abuse.

We were tired and footsore, and suffered much from lack of water. Thecountry showed such a sameness of forbidding features that the journeybecame very monotonous and tiresome. Fuel was so scarce that we had todig trenches two or three feet long, and eight or ten inches wide anda foot deep, fill these with dry grass, and start a fire and pile onbuffalo chips, with which to do our cooking. The result was our foodoften was half raw and badly smoked, and many of the men were broughtdown with severe diarrheal complaints. As many had traveled the road inadvance of us, even buffalo chips for fuel were so scarce that often wehad to go for miles to gather them.

When we reached Pawnee Fork we found it a very difficult stream tocross. The wagons had to be let down the steep bank with ropes, by themen, and had to be taken up the opposite bank in the same manner.

The events narrated here will indicate that it is not all of asoldier's duty when on a long march to tramp all day with musket andaccoutrements and knapsack, but the soldier on such a journey as wehad must push and pull wagons up hill, hold them back when going downhill, haul them through deep sands, and help them and the teams outof quicksands; he must stand guard and night-herd stock; must presson, over rough or smooth ground, rain or shine; must wade rivers, andwhen crossing streams is not allowed to take off his clothing, but hasto plunge into the water, and then travel on in wet clothes; besides,there are many other experiences that are far from pleasant.

We pushed along the best we could to the Arkansas River, through avery uninviting country, in which we began to find brackish water andsaleratus. We traveled up the broad river bottoms of the Arkansaseighty to one hundred miles, the water being poor and unhealthy. Manywere added to the corps of "Jim along, Joseys," and had to be led orcarried by their comrades to the unfeeling doctor, many times to becursed at by him, and then to take a dose from his nauseating spoon.Quite a number of the sick were badly salivated by the drugs given them.

About September 15 or 16, we crossed the river where the roads fork,one going toward Fort Benton, and the other leading to Santa Fe. Therewe parted with Captain Nelson Higgins, he having been detailed to takea small squad of men and the families to a Spanish town called Pueblo,some hundred miles away, there to winter. Meanwhile, we pushed ourway over barren plains and sandy deserts to the Cimmaron River. Wesaw deceptive rivers, ponds and lakes; we chased after them for milessometimes, till we found that, like jack o' lantern or will o' thewisp, we could not get nearer to them. Finally we learned that theywere mirages—a peculiar reflection of the sun upon the great plains orsandy deserts. It seemed impossible for the inexperienced to discernthe difference between the mirage and a body of real water.

In this barren country we saw immense herds of buffalo; in our longmarch we came to ponds of water made perfectly filthy by the buffalo,and rendered offensive by the broiling hot sun, the liquid being almostas thick as gruel; but we were so terribly famished with thirst that wewere glad to get even such foul water.

When the Cimmaron River was reached, there was good water, and goodfeed for our stock, but our rations were reduced one-third, and we werepretty well worn down.

On the 18th or 19th of September it was my place to be on guard. I hadstood the journey very well, but by this time had become affected bythe alkali, and that day was so badly afflicted with diarrhea as to bealmost unable to drag myself into camp. But rather than march to "Jimalong, Josey," I took my place on guard. That night there came on oneof the most terrible storms I ever have experienced. I had to bracemyself with my musket to stand. From that date I have never been freefrom pain in the right limb, near the instep, caused by the severeexposure. Next day it became necessary to go on the sick list, toremain several days.

About the 23rd we began to come to timber in the hills, and having beenfor nine or ten days with nothing but grass and buffalo chips for fuel,we were in a situation to appreciate the change. Soon we were among thesandhills, where traveling was hard, and passed the Rabbit Ears (BlackPeak and Agua Fria Peak), two high mountain peaks. In this mountainousregion we found traces of the inhabitants of a past age, in old stonewalls and in numerous' irrigation canals long since dry.

On the 2nd or 3rd of October we came to the Red River. The mountainair was bracing, but there were many men who yet remained sick. Aboutthis time the command was culled over by Lieutenant Colonel Smith andthe doctor, and all who were considered able to stand a forced march toSanta Fe were ordered forward on the double quick.

The sick men were left to take care of themselves as best they could,with the broken down teams of the command to look after. My lot wasstill with the invalids, and of course I had to remain. Yet we wereonly about two days behind the strong men who left us in the mountains;we reached Santa Fe on October 12th, having passed through severalMexican villages, the houses of which were low and flat-roofed, andcovered principally with cement and tile. We saw the very small Mexicansheep and goats, the people milking the latter, by sitting at the backend, in an earthen pot, and there milking regardless of anything thatmight drop into the vessel intended for milk only.

From the appearance of Santa Fe we had no reason to doubt that it wasbetween three and four hundred years old; for it looked at least thatfar behind the times. Mexicans and Indians, badly mixed, made up thepopulation. Their costume, manners, habits, and in fact everything,were both strange and novel to us, and of course were quite anattraction. Many of the people looked on us with suspicion, and ifit had been in their power no doubt they would have given us a warmreception; others appeared to be pleased, doubtless because it madetrade better for them, and on that account they seemed very friendly.They brought into camp, for sale, many articles of food; the strongestof these were red pepper pies, the pepper-pods as large as a teacup, andonions (savoyas) as large as saucers, to be eaten raw like turnips.

A few days' rest and change of food at Santa Fe, and the command wasready to resume its arduous march.

CHAPTER VI.

EXEMPLAR'S CONDUCT OF THE MORMON TROOPS—LIEUTENANT COLONELP. ST. GEORGE COOKE ARRIVES AND ASSUMES COMMAND—A WELCOMECHANGE—ANOTHER DETACHMENT OP SICK, ALSO THE LAUNDRESSES, SENT TOPUEBLO—SELECTING MEN TO CONTINUE THE JOURNEY TO CALIFORNIA—REDUCINGTHE BAGGAGE—DIFFICULTIES OF THE 1,100 MILES JOURNEY AHEAD—POOREQUIPMENT THEREFOR—LEAVE SANTA FE—ROADS OF HEAVY SAND—ON ONE-THIRDRATIONS—HARDSHIPS INCREASE—GALLED FEET AND GNAWING STOMACHS—MORESICK MEN FOR PUEBLO—LEAVING THE LAST WAGONS—MULES AND OXEN IN A PACKTRAIN—IN AN UNKNOWN COUNTRY—HUNTING A PASS OVER THE MOUNTAINS—ALARMOF AN ENEMY—A BEAVER DAM—CROSSING THE RIO GRANDE DEL NORTE—GREATSUFFERING AMONG THE TROOPS.

WHILE we were in Santa Fe, Colonel Sterling Price came in with hiscavalry command, and soon the town prison was filled with them, so thatit became necessary for a guard from the Mormon Battalion to be postedat the prison. I do not recall that any of our command was put into theprison, though it is possible one or two might have been, for a few ofthem got rather too much wine; but it was a very few who acted thatway. There were many invalids of other commands left to garrison SantaFe, and they caused considerable disturbance, many of them getting intoprison.

It seems that word had gone ahead to the Mexican town that the Mormonswere a very hard class of outlaws, consequently at first we were lookedupon as "toughs" of the very worst kind. But when the people had anopportunity to see our superior conduct in contrast with that of theother troops, they realized the true situation, and male and femalethronged our camp in friendly visit.

It was on October 13, 1846, that Lieutenant Colonel P. St. George Cookeassumed command of the Mormon Battalion, having been designated forthat purpose, and by this proceeding we were liberated from the littletyrant Lieutenant Colonel A. J. Smith.

By order of Colonel Cooke, Captain James Brown of Company C tookcommand of all the sick that were unable to continue the journey toCalifornia; also of most of the laundresses, and a few able-bodiedmen, with directions to go north to Pueblo, and join Captain Higgins.In order to determine who were not able to continue the march toCalifornia, we were drawn up in line, and the officers and Dr.Sanderson inspected the whole command. The doctor scrutinized every oneof us, and when he said a man was not able to go, his name was added toCaptain Brown's detachment, whether the man liked it or not; and whenthe doctor said a man could make the trip, that settled the matter. Theoperation was much like a cooper culling stave timber, or a butcherseparating the lean from the fat sheep.

My desire was very strong to continue the overland journey, and whenthe doctor neared me, I braced up and tried to look brave and hardy.To the doctor's inquiry, "How do you feel?" my answer was, "Firstrate." He looked at me suspiciously and said, "You look d—d pale andweak," then passed on, and I was greatly relieved at having gone safelythrough the inspection.

In order No. 8, Colonel Cooke called the particular attention of thecompany commanders to the necessity of reducing baggage as much aspossible; that means for transportation were very deficient; that theroad was almost impracticable, much of it being in deep sand, andhow soon we would have to abandon our wagons it was impossible toascertain; that skillets and ovens could not be taken, and but onecamp-kettle to each mess of ten men.

Colonel Cooke very properly and correctly pointed out that everythingseemed to conspire to discourage the extraordinary undertaking ofmarching the battalion 1,100 miles, for the much greater part of theway through an unknown wilderness, without road or trail, and with awagon train. He said the battalion was much worn by traveling on foot,marching from Nauvoo, Illinois; their clothing was very scant, therewas no money to pay them, or clothing to issue; the mules were utterlybroken down; the quartermaster's department was out of funds and itscredit bad; animals were scarce, and those procured were inferior anddeteriorating every hour from the lack of forage. All this made itnecessary that such careful preparation as could be should be made inadvance.

It can be easily seen from this statement that the condition andprospects of the battalion were not very encouraging; yet therewere very few of the men who had the least desire to retrace theirsteps—they knew what they had passed through, but looking ahead theytried to hope for the best, realizing, just as they had been told, thatthe country through which they had to travel was an unknown region.

With the colonel's orders carried out, we got ready to move, and aboutthe 21st of October we left Santa Fe and traveled six or eight milesto a stream called Agua Fria (cold water). Grass for animals was veryshort, the nights were very cold, and our road was in heavy sand almostfrom the start. Our advance was slow, for the best teams had been takenfor extra service or express duties in other departments. Besides,there was added to our already overburdened animals the load of sacks,packsaddles, lashing-ropes, etc., necessary in the event of beingcompelled to abandon the wagons, so we would not be entirely withoutmeans of transportation. There was also the burden of sheep pelts andblankets to use under pack saddles, and as most of these were boughtsecond-hand, they were well stocked with the insects commonly called"greybacks."

In a short time we drew near to the mountains, and the weather becamecolder. Having but one blanket each we began to use the pelts andsaddle-blankets to splice out our scanty store of bedding. Thuswe proceeded over sandy roads, through the towns and villages ofSpaniards, Indians and Greasers—the surroundings presented being ofsuch a sameness that the journey became very monotonous.

Soon after leaving Santa Fe our rations were reduced to one-thirdthe regular amount allowed by law to the soldier. A detail of menwas called as a substitute for mules, to move and to lighten theloads of the ammunition wagons. Each soldier was required to carrysixty-four rounds of cartridges that contained each a one-ounce ball,three buck-shot, and powder enough to send them where they should be,besides the heavy paper they were wrapped in, and extra flints for thefirelock—about two hundred ounces added to the already overburdenedsoldier.

Now the soldier must wade the tributaries of the Rio Grande del Norte,sometimes waist deep and more, and is not allowed even to take off hisshoes, or any of his wearing apparel. An officer, perched on his whitemule on some point or eminence overlooking the whole command, with ahawk's eye for keen military experience, calls to this or that squad ofmen, with a horrid oath, as if they were brutes; often he curses themen until they long for a battle where perchance someone would rememberthe tyrant with an ounce ball and three buckshot. And yet, if thatfeeling were not quenched in the soldier's bosom it would not requirean engagement with the enemy to accomplish the deed. But, praise God,that feeling quickly passed off as the men marched along, their clotheswet, and their thick soled cowhide army shoes partly filled withsand—the chafing and galling of the flesh without and the gnawing andgrinding of the stomach within defied the mind to dwell upon any onesubject for long at a time.

Is it any wonder that under these conditions fifty-five of our comradeswore down and collapsed so they had to go on the sick list and itbecame necessary for Lieutenant W. W. Willis to take command of thatnumber of invalid soldiers, and join Captains Higgins and Brown atPueblo? This company of sick and exhausted men left us, on theirreturn, about the 10th or 12th of November.

About this time, the quartermaster was ordered to leave the remainingtwo heavy ox-wagons, while the company commanders were directed toreduce their tent-poles two-thirds; that is, to cast away all theupright poles and use muskets instead, and to put gores in the backpart of the tents so they could shelter nine men in place of six; wewere also to leave one-third of the campkettles.

Then came some sport in putting packs on a number of our mules andworn-out oxen. Some of these, which did not look as though they couldtravel a hundred miles further, when the crupper was put in place wouldrear up, wheel around, and kick in a most amusing style; nor did theycease until their strength failed them.

When this sport, if sport it may be called, was over we began torealize in a small degree the gravity of our situation. Our guideswere "at sea," so to speak. We were in an enemy's land, with not asoul in camp who knew anything of the country. Men had been sent aheadto hunt a route for us to travel, and every time, on their return,they reported impassable barriers ahead—rough, high, steep mountains,without springs of water or creeks, or sandy plains, and barren desertsthat it would be impossible to cross. In this dilemma we had to bear tothe south, along the river, in hopes of finding a pass to the west.

One night, while camped near the Rio Grande del Norte, we heard a greatnoise as though a band of horses were crossing the river. This createdquite an alarm, as there had been rumors of Mexicans revolting. For ashort time it was thought it was Mexican cavalry crossing to attackus by night, but on the colonel making inquiries of the guides it waslearned that the noise proceeded from beaver playing in the river.After watching and listening for a time, all settled down, contentedthat there was no enemy at hand.

On resuming our march next day, we passed through a grove of cottonwoodtrees, and saw where many of them had been cut down by the beaver. Someof the trees were two feet or more in diameter, had been cut off inlong sections, and a surprisingly large dam had been constructed by thebeaver across the river. This dam had caused to be formed a large pond,in which the beaver congregated at certain seasons, for sport. Thus themystery of our midnight disturbance was solved to our satisfaction.

We passed along the sandy road to a large bend in the river, whichColonel Cooke decided was the place where we would cross the stream. Hestationed himself on an abrupt point of rock, from which he could viewthe whole proceeding. Men were detailed from each company to follow thewagons through the river. In order to avoid a rocky ridge the streamhad to be crossed twice within quarter of a mile. There were very heavyquicksands, and if the teams were allowed to stop one minute it wasdoubtful whether they could start again; consequently the precaution ofhaving men close at hand was very important, though the average soldierdid not understand the real reason for forcing him into the waterwithout stripping off at least part of his raiment.

The crossing was made early in the day, and the water was very cold, asI had ample evidence, being one of those detailed to attend the wagons.Our comrades took our muskets over the point while we lifted at thewagons. As the water was waist deep, when the men would stoop to liftit would wet our clothing very nearly to the armpits; our shoes alsowere filled with sand.

Wet and cold, almost chilled, we continued our march through deepsands, pushing and pulling at the wagons till our clothing dried on ourbodies, our shoes became so dry and hard that walking was very painfuland difficult, and our feet became raw. If this had been all, we mighthave had less reason to complain; but when an irritated officer (notall the officers pursued such a reprehensible course, but a few of themdid) swore at us as if we were brutes, when we were already burdenedalmost beyond endurance, it is no wonder there was an impulsive desireto retaliate. For my own part, my feelings never were so outraged,and the desire for revenge never ran so high and wild as then. But wecooled down, though our physical sufferings were not lessened; as wetramped on through the sands we became so weak it was almost impossibleto keep our ankles from striking together as we walked, and our hardand dry shoetops would cut our ankles till the blood came.

CHAPTER VII.

PUSHING TO THE WEST—OVERHEARING A CONVERSATION WITH COL. COOKE—THECOLONEL FEARS THE MEN WILL STARVE—NO BERRIES, NOT EVEN BARK OF TREES,FOR FOOD—TRUE STATE OF AFFAIRS AS TO THE OUTLOOK KEPT FROM MOSTOF THE TROOPS—HIDES, INTESTINES, AND EVEN SOFT EDGES OF HOOFS ANDHORNS OF ANIMALS EATEN—"BIRD'S EYE SOUP."—IN A SNOWSTORM—RELICSOF ANCIENT INHABITANTS—CAMPING WITHOUT WATER—OLD SILVER AND COPPERMINES—HARDEST DAY OF THE JOURNEY—MEN APPEAR AS IF STRICKEN WITHDEATH—THE WRITER SO ILL AS TO BE UNABLE To TRAVEL LONGER, ANDEXPECTS TO DIE—UNCLE ALEXANDER STEPHENS COMES WITH WATER AND REVIVESHIM—AWFUL SUFFERING IN CAMP—REPORTED SICK NEXT MORNING—BRUTAL DR.SANDERSON GIVES A DEADLY DOSE OF LAUDANUM, BUT THE WRITER VOMITS ITAFTER BEING MADE FEARFULLY SICK—IN TERRIBLE DISTRESS FOR DAYS—HEALEDBY THE LAYING ON OF HANDS OF THE ELDERS OF THE CHURCH OF JESUS CHRISTOF LATTER-DAY SAINTS.

IT was but a little while after this that we left the Rio Grande delNorte, and pressed on toward the west. One day, while passing up abrushy canyon, my place being with the advance guard, in the rear ofthe road hands, I had occasion to step into the brush by the roadside.While there, out of sight, Col. Cooke and staff and guides came alongand stopped right opposite me, so close that I dared not move lest theyshould see me. As they came up, the colonel inquired of the guides ifthere were no fruit or berries that men could live on; the reply was,no, not a thing. They were talking about some place ahead that theguides were acquainted with. The colonel then asked if there were notrees that had bark something like elm bark, which men could live onfor a few days; but the answer was that there was neither fruit, rootsnor bark, that the country was a barren waste.

Upon receiving this information, the colonel exclaimed, "What can wedo?" In response, the suggestion was that the guides did not knowunless some of the stronger men and mules were sent on a forced marchto the first place in California, where they could get a bunch of beefcattle and meet us on the desert with them. There was some furtherconversation, when it was ended by the colonel exclaiming, with adespairing oath, "I expect the men will starve to death!"

The deep gloom of sadness hung over those who knew of the situation.All of the men, however, were not informed of the gravity of theposition we were in. At that time we were drawing less than halfrations. The fresh meat we had was more like glue or jelly than beef.The plan had been adopted of slaughtering the weak cattle first, sothat the stronger animals could travel faster. When an animal becametoo weak to hold up one end of a yoke, or to carry a packsaddle, it wasslaughtered, and the flesh issued to the men. Not a scrap of the animalwould be left on the ground; the hide, intestines—all was eaten; eventhe tender or soft edges of the hoofs and horns would be roasted, andgnawed at so long as a human being possibly could draw subsistencetherefrom. Many times we were without water to wash the offal. Thebones would be carried along, broken up, and boiled and re-boiled, insome instances as long as there could be seen a single "bird's eye"(the name given to solitary spots of grease that would come to thesurface) of grease rise on the water; then each man was eager for hisshare.

Sometimes cattle became so weak that men were left with them to comeup to the command after night. On one occasion, when an old ox couldnot be got into camp and had to be left four or five miles back, menwere sent bright and early next morning, to bring him in. It snowedthat night, and in camp things generally were disagreeable. The ox wasbrought in, slaughtered, and issued to us for rations. If any man hadfailed to get his share of that white ox at that time there might havebeen a row, but a fair distribution maintained peace. The place of ourcamp was called White Ox Creek, and we laid by for one day to rest andrefresh ourselves.

From there we traveled over a rough country, but one that evidentlyhad been inhabited ages ago, for we found stone walls, pottery by theacre, and old and dry canals—their former source of water havingdisappeared. We found in a rock a deep and large hole with watersufficient to supply the command; we secured it by drawing all night,until everything was watered. Then we moved on, and next night campedwithout water. We passed many old mines, supposed to be of silver andcopper, and there were said to be gold mines in the vicinity. Late atnight we traveled, and were on the march early the following morning.All day we pressed forward as rapidly as possible, there being nowater, and late at night the command came to a place called Dry Lake.

That was the hardest day for me that came in the experience of thewhole journey. I had been run down so low with a severe attack ofdysentery that I could travel no longer, and laid down. My thirst wasintense, and it did not seem possible that I could live till morning.It seemed that everyone was traveling as best he could, for therearguard passed me without taking any notice. Men went by, lookinglike death, their mouths black, their eyes sunken till it was difficultto recognize them. Some eyes had a staring glare, which looked as ifthe monster death were close at hand. Yet the men staggered on, theirfeet hitting each other, tit for tat, as one was dragged past theother. The hopes of these men were greater than mine, for I had ceasedto march. This was the first time I had felt there was little reason tohope that I would ever reach camp again, for I supposed that all themen had passed me. The sun's rays faded away on the eastern mountaintops, and the bright orb dropped beneath the western horizon. Fora moment I felt that with me the vital spark would soon sink below themortal horizon, as if to accompany the king of day.

Just when my hopes were flickering as does a candle when the wick hasall but burned out, there came to my ears the sound as of the tinklingof a tin can that seemed to keep time with a soldier's step as hemarched. Gradually the sound became more distinct until its approachwas a certainty. Then my uncle, Alexander Stephens, came in sight. Hehad been left to bring up an old spotted ox which had failed, and haddriven the animal into the shade of a rocky cliff, where the ox laiddown, while the driver hunted around and found a dripping of wateras it seeped from a crevice in the rock. He had quenched his thirstand filled his canteen, resting in the meantime, then followed on thetrail, pricking the ox with his bayonet.

When Uncle Alexander Stephens came up he handed me his canteen, and thedraught of water quickly revived me. I did not think myself able torise to my feet, but with a little assistance I got up, and took holdof the packsaddle. My knapsack, musket and accoutrements were lashed tothe ox, and by a final effort we reached Dry Lake camp, by halting atshort intervals along the four miles we had to travel.

Wretched, wretched indeed, was the condition of the command that night.It is doubtful whether at any time in the long march the men sufferedmore than they did then and the forty-eight hours preceding. Nextmorning, at the doctor's call, many had to be helped by their comradesto the place designated for the sick.

For myself, two men sat me upon the ground, and held me up till my timecame to be questioned. Dr. Sanderson called out, "What is the matterwith you?" When he received the information asked for he remarkedgruffly: "I've a d—d great mind not to report you sick. I never sawsuch a d—d set of men in my life. They will not report till d—d nighdead." I answered that it did not matter to me whether he entered me onthe sick list or not, for I could not walk. At this he said sharply."Not a d—d word out of you or I'll make you walk."

Then he ordered the steward to give me a dose of castor oil andlaudanum, stating the quantity. The steward, William Spencer, said,"Isn't it a rather heavy dose?" to which the doctor responded with acurse, telling him to do as he was ordered. At that the dose was pouredinto a teacup, filling it half full. It was given to me, the stewardsaying in a low tone of voice. "If you do not throw it up it will killyou." I was assisted back to the company's wagon, and soon vomited themedicine, but not until it had changed my countenance so much that thelieutenant of my company, Cyrus Canfield, did not know me. He came andordered me out of the wagon, telling me to go to my own company. It wassometime before he could be convinced who I really was, then remarkedthat I looked so near dead that he could not believe it was I. But whenhe recognized me he was very kind, and was willing to do anything hecould for my relief.

For four days I lay in a dull stupor, when that phase of the diseasewas checked, and a very high fever set in. My sufferings were soterrible that some of my messmates came into the tent, anointed me withoil, then administered to or prayed for me; and although burning witha high fever till it seemed that I could not live, I was instantlyhealed, so that when they took their hands off the fever was entirelygone, and I was wet with perspiration. From that time I began to gatherstrength. That was my first experience with the ordinance of healing bythe laying on of hands by the Elders of the Church of Jesus Christ ofLatter-day Saints.

CHAPTER VIII.

ON THE SUMMIT OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS—CROSSING THE BACKBONE OF THENORTH AMERICAN CONTINENT—REVIEW OF THE JOURNEY—GRAVES OPENED BYWOLVES—MUTILATED BODIES—AN UNPARALLELED JOURNEY OF HARDSHIP—THEPROSPECT AHEAD—A MATTER OF LIFE AND DEATH—START DOWN THE PACIFICSLOPE—DESCENDING THE CLIFFS WITH WAGONS—ONE VEHICLE SLIPS AND ISREDUCED TO KINDLING WOOD AND SCRAP IRON—INTO A NEW CLIMATE—CHANGEIN THE CHARACTER OF VEGETATION—WILD HORSES AND CATTLE—ATTACKED BYWILD CATTLE—SEVERAL MEN HURT AND ONE MULE GORED TO DEATH—A NUMBER OFCATTLE KILLED—SUPPLY OF BEEF—REACH THE SAN PEDRO RIVER—TRAVELINGTHROUGH A HEAVY GROWTH OF MESQUIT AND CHAPPARAL—APPROACH THE MEXICANGARRISONED TOWN OF TUCSON—NEWS OF APPROACH OF A LARGE AMERICAN ARMYSENT TO THE MEXICANS—ORDER ISSUED BY COLONEL COOKE.

AT the camp at Dry Lake, which we reached between November 20 and 25,we laid over a day, and a party was sent ahead to cut a road over thedivide. I was too weak for four or five days to take much interest inwhat passed; and in the meantime the command reached and crossed thedivide, or summit of the Rocky Mountains—the backbone of the NorthAmerican continent—where the waters are divided, flowing on eitherside to the Atlantic and Pacific respectively.

For eighteen hundred miles the Mormon Battalion members had made a hardand weary march. Starting from Nauvoo, on the Mississippi River—the"father of waters"—as exiles, they had passed over a lovely country,yet at a season of the year when travel was difficult, to the MissouriRiver. At the latter point the battalion was mustered into service, andmoved over an excellent country two hundred miles to Fort Leavenworth;thence through what is now the state of Kansas, passing over a goodlyland to the Great Plains, a timberless country, where water is scarce.There they began to be footsore and leg-weary, and to suffer severelyfrom heat and thirst. Soon they came to the desert, and for nine daystried cooking their shortened rations over "buffalo chip" fires, withfuel even scarcer than it was poor; often having very little water, andthat brackish, so that men and hearts began to grow weak and ill.

At this point in the long journey they commenced passing the opengraves of soldiers, many of whom laid down their lives in the advancecompanies. Their graves were open for the reason that wolves had dugup the dead bodies and devoured the flesh from the bones; the blanketsin which the bodies were wrapped were torn to shreds, while in someinstances the carcass still hung together, except that the fingers andtoes had been eaten off by wild beasts. The road was also strewn withdead horses and cattle, so that as the battalion advanced the gruesomesights became more frequent and therefore excited less comment. And inturn the battalion contributed a share of dead to the lonely graves ofthe plains.

Then, on the sandy roads, there was the rough order to put the shoulderto the wheel and help the jaded teams; and the battalion waded creeksand rivers with quicksand bottoms, or lifted or pulled at ropes inlowering or raising their wagons over rough and precipitous places—inwhat appeared at that time a rough and worthless country, which may nothave changed greatly since.

At times they were called forward to tramp sand roads for teams, andthen to return and pull at ropes or push at wagons which, withoutassistance, the teams could not control. Then when Santa Fe was passedthe journey was proceeded upon with reduced rations, down the difficultcountry along the Rio Grande del Norte. Onward the struggle continued,over sandy deserts and through a rough, mountainous region, where thehardships were intense, and where there seemed no eye to pity and nohand to pass even a drop of water to moisten the parching tongue. Itwas not human capability, it was the divine power that sustained themin such extremities as they had to endure.

It was thus the renowned Mormon Battalion toiled and struggled on theirjourney to the summit of the lofty Rocky Mountain range—the crestof the continent—a journey whose details of privation, and peril,and patient courage, cannot be told in human words, and never can berealized except by those who experienced it. So many lofty mountainspurs had been crossed, that the final ascent seemed quite gradual.

Leaving now this general survey of the past, I recall that from thelofty eminence we had reached on our march, the descent was very abruptand difficult, through the rugged defiles to the west. But with thebattalion it was a case of life and death. That was no place to remain,there was no earthly help at hand, no way to life open but to trustin God and persevere in the onward movement. So with the pick-axe andcrow-bar we commenced to clear the most feasible road down by choppingaway the shrubbery and brush and removing that and the rocks.

After much of the baggage had been taken down the mountain one way bypack animals, long ropes and guy-ropes were attached to the wagons andthe descent with them began by another way. The wagons were lowered fora distance of half a mile or so, men standing as best they could onthe mountain side, letting the vehicle down gradually, then holding ittill other men could get a fresh footing and lower it still further.Thus one by one the wagons were let down in safety, all but one. Bysome mishap that got adrift from the men, and to save their lives theyhad to let it go until there was nothing of it but scrap-iron andkindling-wood. As there was already an abundance of the latter aroundus, no one was desirous of descending to the rugged depths of theravine to secure even a relic of that terrible descent.

It was thought by our commander and guides that it would require fromsix to eight days to make the descent, but thanks to the tact and skillof some of our men who had been accustomed to frontier life, the workwas done in two days, and we were again where the wagons could stand onpartially level ground.

In a very brief space of time we found ourselves plunged into a warmclimate, where we could not see any plant or shrub that we had beenacquainted with before. There was some small, scrubby ash, sycamoreand black walnut, but everything, even to the rocks, had a strangeappearance. We also had entered the land of wild horses and cattle,which roamed the hills by thousands. The wild cattle became excited atthe rumbling wagons, and gathered thickly along our way.

At last the muskets commenced to rattle, partly through fear, andpartly because we wanted beef. Finally a herd of wild cattle chargedour line, tossed some men into the air, pierced others with theirhorns, knocking some down, and ran over others, attacking one lightwagon, the hind end of which was lifted clear from the road. One largebull plunged into a six-mule team, ran his head under the off-swingmule, throwing him entirely over the near one and thrusting his horninto the mule's vitals, injuring our animal so it had to be left on theground, where it expired in a few minutes. There were several men andmules roughly used and bruised, just the number I do not now recall.The attacking party lost twenty or twenty-five of their number killed,with many others badly or slightly wounded.

We had plenty of beef for a few days, and might have secured muchmore. I never understood the reason why we were not allowed to layby and "jerk" an abundance of meat for the subsequent use of thecommand, but the stop was not permitted. Many of the men felt greatlydisappointed and indignant because we were denied the privilege ofavailing ourselves of this splendid opportunity of replenishing ourscanty rations. We were half starving at the time, and perhaps if wehad been allowed to lay by a few days we would have gorged ourselves toour injury. It may be that would have been more serious than to havestormed, as some did, at being ordered to march on. It is possible thiswas the view taken by our commander, though we never knew.

Continuing our advance to lower levels, the climate was mild andpleasant. Our course was northwesterly until we passed a desertedranch called San Bernardino, in what is now Arizona, and followeddown the San Pedro River. I think this was the south fork of the GilaRiver. There was some good country along this lovely stream. It wasthere we first saw the mescal and mesquit, the former being the plantfrom which the Mexicans distil their whisky (pulque), the latter a treesomewhat resembling the black locust, but growing with a very spreadinghabit, making it difficult to travel among. In many places it had to becut down and cleared away before we could proceed. There was anotherscrubby tree-growth which the Spaniards call chapparal. This brush grewvery thick in places, so that in cutting it away travel became verytedious.

Here the guides told Colonel Cooke that if we followed along the streamit would be a hundred miles farther than if we cut across the bend, butif we took the latter route we would have to pass through a Mexicanfortified town, where a body of soldiers had been left to guard it asan outpost. At that time it was impossible for us to learn the strengthof the place; but it was thought that we might get some supplies ofprovisions and some animals. At the same time there was considerablerisk that we would have to fight, and perhaps get defeated, in whichcase it would be not only a loss of property but of life as well.

On December 12 and 13 we followed down the San Pedro, our coursebeing nearly due north, near the base of a mountain extending towardsthe Gila River. The guide, Leroux, with others, returned from anexploration of the table-land to the west, leading to Tucson. Theyfound a party of Apache Indians and some Mexicans distilling mescal,and learned from them that the Mexican garrison at Tucson numberedabout two hundred men. The interpreter with the guides, Dr. Foster,had thought it proper to go to Tucson, and Leroux told the Mexicans toinform the commander at Tucson that an American army was approachingen route to California; that the advance guard numbered about threehundred and sixty men, and if it stopped to drill it would give timefor the main army to come up; that the strength of the main army couldbe judged by the size of its vanguard; and that if Foster did notrejoin the advance guard by a given time it would be understood that hewas a prisoner at Tucson. Upon learning what had been done and said,Colonel Cooke issued the following order:

"Headquarters Mormon Battalion, Camp on the San Pedro, Dec. 13, 1846.

"Thus far on our course to California we have followed the guidesfurnished us by the general. These guides now point to Tucson, agarrison town, as on our road, and assert that any other course isone hundred miles out of the way, and over a trackless wilderness ofmountains, rivers and hills. We will march then to Tucson. We camenot to make war on Sonora, and less still to destroy an importantoutpost of defense against Indians. But we will take the straight roadbefore us and overcome all resistance, but shall I remind you that theAmerican soldier ever shows justice and kindness to the unarmed andunresisting? The property of individuals you will hold sacred; thepeople of Sonora are not our enemies.

"By order of Lieutenant Colonel Cooke.

"P. C. Merrill, Adjutant."

CHAPTER IX.

ON THE TRAIL TO TUCSON—EXCITEMENT IN THE TOWN—MEET MEXICANSOLDIERS—OUR NUMBERS OVERRATED BY THE INDIANS—MEXICAN COMMANDERUNDER ORDERS TO OPPOSE US—COLONEL COOKE ANNOUNCES HIS WISH TOPASS ON WITHOUT HOSTILITIES—ARREST OF CORPORAL CASSADURAN, SON OFTHE MEXICAN COMMANDER AT TUCSON, AND OTHER MEXICANS WHO ARE HELDAS HOSTAGES FOR THE RETURN OF OUR INTERPRETER—THE INTERPRETER ISLIBERATED—AN ARMISTICE PROPOSED—SURRENDER OF TUCSON DEMANDED—MEXICANPRISONERS RELEASED—SURRENDER IS REFUSED—COLONEL COOKE ORDERS THEBATTALION TO PREPARE FOR BATTLE—ADVANCE TOWARD THE TOWN—FLIGHT OFTHE MEXICANS—AT THE GATES OF TUCSON—OUR LINE OF BATTLE—ADDRESS BYCOLONEL COOKE—WE ENTER THE TOWN, AND PASS THROUGH TO CAMP—PURCHASESOF WHEAT, CORN, ETC.—THE BATTALION NEARLY STARVED—NIGHT ALARM OFA MEXICAN ATTACK—DIFFICULTIES OF GETTING INTO LINE—NO ENEMY INSIGHT—START ACROSS THE GILA DESERT—AGONY ON THE BURNING SANDS ANDALKALI FLAT—-STRENGTHENED BY THE DIVINE BLESSING—REACH THE GILA RIVER.

ON the 14th the battalion ascended to the plateau, traveling up hillfor eight or nine miles, when it struck the trail leading to Tucson.Colonel Cooke selected fifty men, with whom he pushed forward. Passingthe vanguard, he soon reached water, where he found four or fiveMexican soldiers cutting grass. Their arms and saddles were on theirhorses near by, easily accessible to our men. But these had no wish tomolest them, and the Mexicans appeared to pay little attention to us.

The colonel learned from a Mexican sergeant that rumors of a largeforce of American troops coming had reached Tucson, and greatexcitement prevailed in the town. Of course the colonel, who waspossessed of generalship as well as a stern sense of discipline, tookno pains to disabuse the Mexicans' minds, and thus possibly exposeour little army to unnecessary peril. Indians who had seen us from adistance had overestimated largely our numbers, and thus served toimpress the people of Sonora with the accuracy of the statement made bythe guides.

The colonel also learned from the Mexican sergeant that the commanderof the garrison had orders from the governor not to allow any armedforce to pass through the town without resistance. A message wastherefore sent to the commander by this same sergeant, saying that thepeople need not be alarmed, as we were their friends and would do themno harm, as we wished merely to purchase supplies and pass on.

The next day we traveled about twelve miles, passing a distillery, andcamped without water. The battalion marched in front of the wagons, toprotect the provisions. Here a new (to us) species of cactus provedvery troublesome. It was jointed, and when an animal rubbed against thethorns it broke loose at the joints, and sections about three incheslong would stick fast to the animal. The same variety of cactus isfound in southern Utah.

This day a corporal, the son of Cassaduran, commander of the Mexicanpost at Tucson, and three Mexican soldiers were met with. They showedno signs of fear until Colonel Cooke ordered them arrested, when theyseemed terribly frightened. On arriving at our camp, the corporal wasquestioned by the commander as to Dr. Foster. He said (and it proved tobe true) that Foster was under guard, but had been requested earnestlyto come with them, and had refused. He had feigned indignation at beingarrested, lest the Mexicans should be suspicious as to our numbers andshould get reinforcements and fight us. As he anticipated, his conductinspired them with terror.

One of the Mexican prisoners was released and sent to the garrisonwith two of the guides, one of whom took a note to the commander ofthe post, demanding Foster's release and stating that the other threeMexicans were held as hostages. About midnight, Dr. Foster was broughtinto camp by two officers, one of whom was authorized to arrange aspecial armistice.

Colonel Cooke sent a proposition to the Mexican commander that hedeliver up a few arms as a guaranty of surrender, and that theinhabitants of Tucson would not fight against the United States, unlessreleased as prisoners of war. The Mexican prisoners also were released.Our camp at this time was about sixteen miles from Tucson; and on ouradvance the following day, when a few miles out, a cavalryman met uswith a note from Captain Cassaduran, declining the proposition tosurrender. We were thereupon ordered to load our muskets and preparefor an engagement. We had not traveled far, however, before two otherMexicans met us, with the news that the garrison at Tucson had fled,and had forced most of the inhabitants to leave the town. They alsohad taken two brass pieces of artillery with them. A little later inthe day, about a dozen well armed men, probably soldiers in citizens'dress, met and accompanied the battalion to Tucson. But before passingthrough the gates a halt was ordered.

That morning, when we were striking camp for the march into Tucson, Dr.Sanderson opened up again by remarking that "every d—d man who couldstand alone ought to fall into line." Our first move was to form rankswith everything in proper order to make an assault or receive a charge.Then we moved out in line of battle. When within three or four miles ofthe fort a stop was made, we were faced to the right, and the commandcame to forward march, double-quick time. At that the whole columnmoved on a smart trot. Some of us, at least, thought we were advancingupon an enemy that had been discovered by the commander; but when wehad gone pell-mell over cobblerock and gullies, through brush andcactus, for a distance of nearly three quarters of a mile, we receivedthe command to halt. Then came orders to left face, file left, march.This move brought us back into the road, where we filed to the rightand marched on to the fort.

At the gates of the fort. Colonel Cooke made a brief speech, statingthat the soldiers and citizens had fled, leaving their property behindand in our power; that we had not come to make war on Sonora; and thatthere must not be any interference with the private property of thecitizens.

We then marched through the town, where a few aged men and women andsome children brought us water and other small tokens of respect. Wemade no halt in the village, which had contained some four or fivehundred inhabitants, of which number all but about a hundred had fled.Our stop was made about half a mile down stream from the place.

In the town we made purchases of wheat, corn, beans and peas, which weparched or boiled. We were so near starved that we could not wait forthis food to be more than half cooked before we ate it. There was nogeneral supply purchased at Tucson, but each man or mess obtained asmuch as could be with the scanty means on hand.

On the night of December 17, Albern Allen and his son Rufus C. Allenhad been placed on picket guard above Tucson, with orders that if anybody of men, say ten or more, appeared, an alarm was to be fired, andthe guards were to run into camp. Sometime between midnight and twoo'clock a body of Mexicans put in an appearance, and the alarm wasgiven as ordered. The bugle sounded at the colonel's quarters, and soonLieutenant George Oman, who was officer of the day, rushed through thecamp, shouting, "Beat that drum; if you cannot beat the drum, beat thefife!" The drum-major, R. D. Sprague, obeyed the order, and hit thedrum. Immediately the stern voice of the colonel shouted to cease thatmusic. In less time than it takes to tell it, lights sprang up throughthe camp. Then came the sharp command from the colonel, "Dust thosefires!" and the flames went out; the adjutant rushed through the campwith orders to the officers to form their companies into line, the menwere commanded to fall in, and all was rustle and bustle.

The writer had been up relieving his stomach of half-boiled wheat,corn and peas, and had just got settled back in bed when the alarmwas fired, so he heard all that was going on. As we all slept in ourpantaloons, the first thing I thought of in that country of pricklypears was my boots; and while reaching for these and bumping heads withcomrades, some of the men whose muskets were used for uprights for thetent thought these the first articles in the emergency and seized them,the tent coming down and the ridge-pole making another bump on heads.At the same time we were all trapped in the fallen tent, which waspinned down tight. I was trying to get the left boot on the right foot,and my footwear being rather small I had no easy job. All being caughtin the tent-trap, the thought came how easy it would be for a body ofMexican cavalry in a charge to cut us to pieces, and we soon burstthrough the tent and fell into line.

For the first time in the whole march the writer brought up the rearin getting to his place, and received a rebuke from the officerin command, George P. Dykes. Right here, however, in that briefexperience, I learned a lesson I have never forgotten, namely, orderin dressing and undressing. We had been in the habit of puttingour clothing anywhere and each throwing his on top of another's,if convenience appeared to suggest it, so that in the dark it wasdifficult for each to get into his own raiment. I realized then howimportant it was to have "a place for everything and everything in itsplace;" hence to put every article of wearing apparel down so that inthe darkest hour of night I knew where to place my hand on it, and whenarmed always to have my weapons in the best possible order and wherethe hand might be laid on them without any mistakes.

Notwithstanding all the confusion, it seemed to me we were in line ofbattle in very short order, awaiting an attack of Mexican cavalry.There was a few minutes' breathless silence after we were ready for theassault, and no enemy appearing, reconnoitering parties were sent outto ascertain the true situation. We were held in readiness an hour ormore, then learning that everything was quiet, were permitted to retireto our tents, but not without some apprehension of danger until thedawn of day, which came bright and peaceful, and we began our march outon what was known as the Ninety-five Mile Desert, which lay between usand the Gila River.

After the first day's march on that awful stretch of barren waste, webegan to straggle along, and before the Gila was reached the commandwas scattered along on the clay beds and sand strips for twenty miles.We traveled night and day, not stopping at any one place more than sixhours.

The command was in a most deplorable condition on this journey. Manywere the men that lay down by the wayside without a hope that theywould live to reach water, and often thinking that they were behind thecommand. But after they had rested for a few hours and perhaps dozedlong enough to dream that they died on the desert, and that the wolvesthat were howling around were dragging their emaciated carcasses overthe sands or perchance in the alkali pools, so strongly impregnatedwith poisonous stuff that it would consume, in a short time, the fleshif not the bones also, then the thought of home and loved ones wouldcome; and what was sometimes last, though not the least, would be thememory of the promises which the servants of God had made when we leftthe dear ones of home. Then the worn and weary soldier would staggerto his feet, survey the surroundings, and perhaps would catch sight,in the distance, of some comrade who was staggering and reeling onwardtoward the setting sun, and would follow in his path.

So the almost dead soldier would go on, his feet playing pit-a-pat asthey dragged past each other, until his limbs would refuse to carry himfarther, and down he would go and repeat the agonizing experience ofa few hours previous. He would also chew a buckshot or two to inducemoisture in his parching tongue, and would offer an earnest prayer fromhis humble soul—a further exertion which he would not have brought hiswearied mind to do if it had not been for the confidence he placed inthe promises of God, made through His faithful servants.

Thus, dear reader, the renowned Mormon Battalion passed forward acrossthe great Gila Desert, almost without a human reason to hope that theywould reach the goal, and only able to accomplish their aim throughdivine grace. When they succeeded in reaching the banks of the river,their clothes were so tattered and torn that it was with difficultythey could cover their nakedness.

CHAPTER X.

ON THE GILA RIVER—PIMA INDIAN VILLAGE—WELCOME GIFTS FROM THEPIMAS—AMONG THE MARICOPA INDIANS—ASLEEP ON THE TRAIL—VISIT PROMA BEAR—LOSS OF PROVISIONS THROUGH AN ATTEMPT TO FLOAT A QUANTITYDOWN THE GILA—HARD TRAVELING—CROSSING THE COLORADO RIVER—GLOOMIN THE CAMP—LOWER AND UPPER CALIFORNIA—TERRIBLE MARCH OVER THETIERRA CALIENTE, OR HOT LANDS—DIGGING WELLS FOR BRACKISH WATER—ADVANCEGUARD REACH A MOUNTAIN SPRING—WATER CARRIED BACK TO REVIVE THEFAINTING TROOPS—LAST SPOONFUL OF FLOUR USED—DIVIDING THE RATIONS—INTHE CANYONS OF THE SIERRA NEVADA—HEWING ROADS THROUGH ROCKS ANDBRUSH—FEEDING ON LIVE ACORNS AND GREEN MUSTARD—NEWS OF VICTORIESBY UNITED STATES TROOPS IN CALIFORNIA—PREPARING TO ENGAGE THERETIRING MEXICAN ARMY—FIRST HOUSE SEEN IN CALIFORNIA—BEEF WITHOUTSALT—TRADE FOR ACORN MUSH—HEAVY STORM AND FLOOD IN CAMP—A FEW POUNDSOF FLOUR SECURED—DANCING IN MUD AND WATER—RECEIVE ORDERS TO GO TOLOS ANGELES—DISCOVER A BODY OF TROOPS IN LINE OF BATTLE—ADVANCETO THE ATTACK—SUPPOSED FOE PROVES TO BE FRIENDLY INDIANS—PRESENCEOF THE MORMON BATTALION PREVENTS AN INTENDED ATTEMPT BY MEXICANS TORETAKE CALIFORNIA, ALSO AN UPRISING OF CALIFORNIANS AGAINST THE UNITEDSTATES—ON A BATTLEFIELD WHERE GENERAL KEARNEY HAD FOUGHT—RELICSOF THE ENCOUNTER—PROPHECY OF PRESIDENT BRIGHAM YOUNG AND ITSFULFILLMENT—SOURCE OF HIS INSPIRATION.

WHERE we reached the Gila River it was a lovely stream, four or liverods wide; but the country was covered with alkali grass and mesquitbrush. We rested part of a day, then proceeded down the river eightor ten miles, coming to a Pima Indian village. The Pima Indians weresuperior to any that we had fallen in with heretofore. They were anagricultural people, peacefully inclined, and kind and loving towardeach other. Those in the village appeared the picture of good health.They came and went by twos, the males and females keeping each sex,to themselves. They seemed the most affectionate people I had evermet; happy and innocent in appearance—a large and handsome class ofpersons. Each Indian was wrapped in a large home-made blanket.

The Pimas had corn, wheat, pumpkins, beans, and, I think, peas. Someof the Indians noted our wretched and starved condition, and cut up alot of pumpkins—as we cut them for cows. These they boiled, and handedto the soldiers as the latter passed by and took the proffered food inanything they could get to hold the steaming hot vegetables. The menwere indeed thankful for these favors, although they came from Indians.

It was between the 20th and 25th of December when we left the PimaIndian village, and passed down the Gila River to a broad, open,fertile valley in the Maricopa Indian country. At the Maricopa Indianvillages we met many fine specimens of the native inhabitants. Wetraded brass buttons for food. One brass button had more purchasingpower than a five dollar gold piece.

It was some five or six days before we passed out of the Maricopas'farming country. There was a large bend in the river, and we traveledthree days over a rough, sandy country before we came to the streamagain. On this march we camped without water. The writer was one ofthose who stood guard around the stock. The feed was so scarce thatwe were kept running all night. I was so completely worn out next daythat at about eleven a.m. I sought rest by dropping out of the commandand hiding from the rearguard behind a clump of brush that grew on asand knoll. No sooner had I laid down than I fell into a sound slumber,oblivious to all danger.

When the writer awakened from that sleep the rearguard had passed onlong before; the sun had changed position so that the drowsy soldierfelt perfectly lost, but gradually he came to realize that it was threeor four o'clock p.m. Some six or eight feet from where he had beenlying he found fresh bear tracks, telling him of the wild beast thathad been viewing him while wrapt in slumber. He hurried forward on thetrail, and reached camp just as the night guards were being posted andhis comrades were becoming greatly concerned for his safety.

Our route lay down the river, through deep sand and mesquit brush,where we had not only to chop and clear away the brush, but had to pushand pull the wagons until our souls as well as our bodies were wornout. We gathered mesquit and a kind of pod to feed our mules. We weresix days traveling sixty miles, to the crossing of the Colorado River,or Red River, as it was called by some.

The reader will not wonder that on reaching this point a mountain ofgloom rested upon the whole command, causing the men almost to despairas they, on the 10th day of January, 1847, stood on the banks of theswift-flowing Colorado—the stream being half a mile wide at thatplace—with no alternative but to wade across, pulling and pushing atthe wagons, then to cut and burn their way out, through the thick brushon the bottom land, to the bench or bluff that opened out on a barrendesert, known to the Mexicans as Tierra Caliente, or the Hot Lands.

Now the command entered upon another soul-trying march. The route fromthe crossing of the Colorado was over the northeast corner of LowerCalifornia, some sixty miles above the Gulf of California, then intothe south-eastern part of Upper California. The stronger men, with alittle extra ration, preceded the main army, to dig wells in the desert.

No sooner was the almost hopeless march commenced than men began tolag behind, so that when the advance guard came to a halt at any partof the journey, others were miles behind. The first day we came to awell that General Phil. Kearney and his men had dug, but it had cavedin so badly that it was almost as much work to clean it as to dig a newone; and when it was cleaned, our men dug another. The water was scantand brackish. We remained at that point only until the rear of thecommand caught up, then proceeded on our way, stopping but a short timein any one place, until we reached Cariza, a splendid spring near thebase of the Sierra Nevada range of mountains. The first men to reachwater filled kegs and canteens, lashed them to the stouter animals, andhastened back to succor and revive the famishing men who were bringingup the rear.

On that terrible march many of the weaker men despaired of everreaching water. We passed several, who, with sunken and glazed eyes andblackened mouths and looking as ghastly as death, stammered to us aswe passed them: "Goodby, I shall never live to reach water. I cannotgo a step farther, but shall die on this spot." Poor fellows! I verilybelieve that if they had not been resuscitated by the water that wascarried back, their words would have been painfully true before therising of another sun.

If it had not been for some fresh mules and beef cattle that we met onthis tedious march, we never could have got through with the wagons,and possibly would have lost some men, as our flour had given out andwe were reduced so near to starvation as to eat every particle of theworn-out beef ox; even the tender part of the horns and hoofs, and theintestines, were broiled on the coals and eaten, without water to washthem.

In our mess, the last spoonful of flour was made into a thin gravy bystirring it into some water where some of our glue-like beef had beenboiled. This so-called gravy was divided among the men by spoonfuls,then the pan was scraped with a table knife and wiped into a spoon,and with the point of the same knife it was divided into seven parts.Each man watched the division; and I do not believe there was one manout of the seven but would have fought for his share of that spoonfulof pan-scrapings. Nor do I believe there was one of them who wouldhave robbed his comrades. For the last three or four hundred miles wehad been in the habit of cooking the food, and dividing it into sevenequal parts. Then one man would turn his back, and the cook or the onewho made the division would touch each morsel and say, "Who shall havethat?" whereupon the one whose back was turned would say, so and so,calling each messmate by name, until all had been "touched off," as weused to call it.

From our camp at the spring we passed into the canyons of the SierraNevada. The days had been excessively hot on the desert, and it wasvery cold and frosty in the mountains at night. We soon came to wherethe canyons were too narrow for our wagons; then with crowbar andpickaxe and sledge we went at the jagged rocks until the pass wassufficiently widened, and with our shoulders to the wheels or bytugging at ropes we got our train to the summit.

It was while passing through this range of mountains that we first sawlive-oak acorns. They were bitter as wormwood; yet we ate considerablequantities of them, and as we descended the western slope they becamevery abundant, and served for a change. As we passed down to thevalleys we found green mustard, which was boiled and eaten withoutpepper or salt.

About this time one of our guides or interpreters brought word fromthe governor of San Diego that several battles had been fought by theCalifornia troops and United States forces, and that we might meet alarge Mexican army retreating to Sonora. In consequence of receivingthis news, Colonel Cooke ordered a drill. We had secured a few beefcattle and some fresh mules, and with this increase of strength and theprospect of engaging the Mexicans we were spurred on from one mountainsummit to another, pushing and pulling the wagons—a business we werewell versed in, from oft repeated lessons.

At Warner's Ranch, we came to the first house we had seen inCalifornia. Mr. Warner hailed from the state of Massachusetts. From himthe colonel purchased two or three fat beeves. The beef was good, yetwe had nothing to eat with it, not even pepper or salt for seasoning,and it did not satisfy the cravings of hunger. We rested a day at theranch, and some of us wandered off up the creek in hopes of findingwild fruit or game. We came to a small camp of Indians who were engagedin hulling and leaching live-oak acorns, then pounding them to a pulpin stone mortars; this was boiled to a thick mush in home-made earthenpots. The writer bantered one of the old ladies for about three or fourquarts of that cold-ochre mush, by offering her the belt that heldhis pantaloons in place. She accepted the offer, and he, being withoutproper utensil to receive his purchase, substituted his hat for a pan,and the mush was scooped into it. Then when he found himself in thedilemma of his pantaloons threatening to desert him, he seized thealternative of holding up that portion of his attire with one hand, andcarrying his hat and its contents in the other, and proceeded to camp,where his purchase was divided and devoured as a sweet morsel.

From Warner's Ranch we traveled over low hills and camped on a littlenarrow flat between two hills. In the night it came on to rainterribly, and the flat was so flooded that we awoke to find ourselveshalf-side deep in water. At dawn one of the boys crawled out of thewater and wet blankets, and crowed; for he had learned that the men whohad been sent back to recover some flour which had been left in theboat had come in with about four hundred pounds. Soon every man in camphad heard the glad tidings of the arrival of this expedition, aboutwhich there had been much anxiety.

In a short time the writer was called on by the orderly sergeant ofhis company, D, to go with him and receive the portion of flour to beissued to the company. At the door of the tent where the flour wasbeing divided we met Col. Cooke, who was sitting with his head down, asif in deep study. Some of the boys had found a riddle that had faredbetter than its owner, and near by one of them struck up the tuneof "Leather Breeches Full of Stitches," or some similar lively air.Immediately a number of men formed a couple of French fours and begandancing in water half to their shoe tops. The colonel caught the sound,started up, and inquired what it was. Some one replied, "Oh, nothing,only the boys are dancing and making merry over the prospect of gettinga little flour." The colonel shrugged his shoulders and remarked, "Inever saw such a d—d set of men before in my life. If they can get outsomewhere so they can dry their clothes and have a little flour theywill be as happy as gods!"

Doubtless the colonel could call to mind often having seen us staggerinto camp, and perhaps could remember a dozen or so of us rush to wherehis mule was being fed corn mixed with beans, which the well-fed mulewould object to by throwing his head first one way, then the other,scattering the half-chewed corn and beans in the sand, where the hungrysoldiers would pick it from, rub it in their hands, and eat it raw; forto the famishing soldier beans are not so objectionable.

I am reminded at this point in my narrative that three croaking ravenshad followed the command nearly all the way from Santa Fe, for thebits that escaped the soldier's eye. Surely if it had not been for theravens' keener vision they would have left in disgust, and would havegiven us a very hard name. Even the wolf might have told his fellowsnot to follow such a greedy lot, which did not leave a bone till it waspounded and boiled and re-boiled till it could not be scented, and ifperchance a bit was found it was too hard for even wolves' teeth.

From this camp we moved to the west under orders from General Kearneyto go to Los Angeles. While on the march toward that point, just as weemerged from a canyon, we heard the drum and fife in an open valley.Soon we saw a military force forming in line of battle, and as we drewnearer we discovered their spears or lances gleaming in the sunlight,and officers dashing up and down the lines giving commands. Our advanceguard slowed up, and we were ordered to form in line of battle. Everyofficer took his place, the command dressed in proper order, and, as weadvanced, comrades looked into each other's faces as if to say, "Howdo you feel about it?" One asked Alexander Stephens the question, andreceived a prompt reply, "First-rate. I had as lief go into battle asnot. If we must die, the sooner the better, for it seems that we mustbe worn till we starve and die anyhow. I do not fear death a particle."Others were heard to say as much, and although the ashy look of deathshone in many faces, from the privations undergone, I do not thinkthere was a tremor in any heart, or a single man who showed the whitefeather.

As we drew near the force in our path, there was a dead silence, as ifawaiting the order to wheel into line and open fire, for we were withinrifle range. Just then two of the opposite party came out on horsebackto meet us. The colonel sent two of our interpreters forward, andthe command was halted. Soon our guides returned and stated that thesupposed foe was a band of Indians which had had a battle with Mexicansin the vicinity a few days before, and the Indians had returned to burytheir dead. They had taken us for enemies, but their fears were turnedinto joy on discovering that we were American soldiers.

With all our bravery, there was a sigh of relief when we heard the newsthat our supposed enemies were friends. It was now late in the day.and both parties went into camp within a short distance of each other.Friendly visits back and forth were made that evening. The Indians weredressed in Spanish costume and were armed the same as the Mexicans;as I remember them they displayed bravery, and some skill in Mexicanmilitary tactics.

Next day we proceeded on our way, and passed down a dry wash, thebottom of which was mostly lined with a whitish cobblestone, upon whichthe feet of some comrade showed blood at every step for a hundred yardsor more. I cannot now recall the man's name. We continued our marchfrom that place, and afterwards learned that the Mexicans had intendedto make an effort to regain California, but the timely arrival of thebattalion prevented any attempt to execute the movement.

So far as I can remember, it was between January 23 and 27, 1847, thatwe passed over a battlefield where General Kearney and his littlecommand had fought and beaten the Mexicans. There lay broken swords andfirearms, and dead horses and mules; and there also were the graves ofthe slain, while all around the blood-stained soil was plainly withinour view, fixing the scene upon our memory.

Here came to our minds the words of President Brigham Young, in hisfarewell address to the battalion, in which he said: "You are now goinginto an enemy's land at your country's call. If you will live yourreligion, obey and respect your officers, and hold sacred the propertyof the people among whom you travel, and never take anything but whatyou pay for, I promise you in the name of Israel's God that not one ofyou shall fall by the hand of an enemy. Though there will be battlesfought in your front and in your rear, on your right hand and on yourleft, you will not have any fighting to do except with wild beasts."

Here I pause and ask: Who on earth dare to make, of himself, such apromise, under the circumstances and in the name that this promise hadbeen made? And yet over three hundred men who heard it could standup after they had filled the time of their enlistment, and beforehigh heaven and all the world could bear testimony to the literalfulfillment of those words spoken eight months before, in the camp inMissouri Valley, two thousand miles distant. I ask the honest reader:From whence came such foresight, if not from the Eternal God, theCreator of the heavens and the earth, and all things therein? To Him weascribe all honor and glory, power and praise, for our success in thatgreat, wonderful and unparalleled march of twenty-five hundred milesmade by infantry. Who shall say that God had not made bare His arm insupport of that ever memorable Mormon Battalion? But as yet the wholetask of the battalion had not been completed.

CHAPTER XI.

ORDERED TO SAN DIEGO—FIRST VIEW OF THE PACIFIC OCEAN—RUMORSOF THE ENEMY—COMPLIMENTARY ORDER, BY LIEUT. COL. COOKE, ON THEACHIEVEMENTS OF THE MORMON BATTALION—REPORTED HOSTILITY OFCOL. FREMONT TO GEN. KEARNEY—LIVING ON BEEF ALONE—OBTAIN SOMEFLOUR—ROUTINE OF THE CAMP—ORDERED TO LOS ANGELES—DAMAGE BY ANEARTHQUAKE—WILD HORSES AND CATTLE DRIVEN INTO THE SEA—ARRIVAL ATLOS ANGELES—RUMORS OF AN ATTACK—CONSTRUCTING A FORT—GUARDING CAJONPASS—SURROUNDED BY WILD CATTLE—TAKE REFUGE IN A RAVINE—COL. FREMONTARRESTED—SITE OF SAN BERNARDINO—GETTING OUT A LIBERTY POLE—BRUSHWITH THE INDIANS—CLEARING LOS ANGELES OF DOGS—WICKEDNESS IN THETOWN—BRUTALITY OF BULL FIGHTS, HORSE RACING, ETC.—ALWAYS READY FORAN ATTACK—FIRST RAISING OF THE STARS AND STRIPES ON A LIBERTY POLE INCALIFORNIA.

ORDERS had been received changing our destination from Los Angeles toSan Diego, passing by way of the Mission San Luis del Rey. When wereached the San Diego Mission we passed it by and camped between it andthe town. It was en route to this place that we came in sight of thewaters of the great Pacific Ocean, a view that was most pleasurable tous, and which we hailed with shouts of joy, as we felt that our longmarch of starvation was about over. We were now drawing five pounds offair beef, without salt or pepper.

Another day's march, and we had completed the journey over the nation'shighway across the continent. We were allowed one day at San Diego,when we were ordered back to the San Luis del Rey Mission. Therewas some disappointment, but the order to return was obeyed withoutmurmuring. It was thought we would meet the enemy, as it was said therewas a force of about eighteen hundred Californians, under GeneralFlores, lurking in the mountains northwest of San Luis del Rey Mission,but we did not see them. At the Mission we were required to do fatigueduty, as it was called, which included cleaning up the place, it havingbeen neglected a long time. At this place the following was issued byCol. Cooke:

"HEADQUARTERS, MISSION OF SAN DIEGO,

"January 30, 1847.

"Lieutenant Colonel commanding congratulates the battalion on its safearrival on the shores of the Pacific Ocean, and the conclusion of itsmarch of over two thousand miles. History may be searched in vain foran equal march of infantry; nine-tenths of it through a wilderness,where nothing but savages and wild beasts are found, or deserts where,for want of water, there is no living creature. There, with almosthopeless labor, we have dug deep wells, which the future traveler willenjoy. Without a guide who had traversed them, we have ventured intotrackless prairies, where water was not found for several marches. Withcrowbar and pickaxe in hand, we have worked our way over mountains,which seemed to defy aught save the wild goat, and hewed a passagethrough a chasm of living rock more narrow than our wagons. To bringthese first wagons to the Pacific, we have preserved the strength ofthe mules by herding them over large tracts, which you have laboriouslyguarded without loss.

"The garrison of four presidios of Sonora, concentrated within thewalls of Tucson, gave us no pause; we drove them out with theirartillery; but our intercourse with the citizens was unmarked by asingle act of injustice. Thus marching, half naked and half fed, andliving upon wild animals, we have discovered and made a road of greatvalue to our country.

"Arrived at the first settlement of California, after a single day'srest, you cheerfully turned off from the route to this point ofpromised repose, to enter upon a campaign, and meet, as we believed,the approach of the enemy; and this, too, without even salt to seasonyour sole subsistence of fresh meat.

"Lieutenants A.J. Smith and George Stoneman of the First Dragoons, haveshared and given valuable aid in all these labors.

"Thus, volunteers, you have exhibited some high and essential qualitiesof veterans. But much remains undone. Soon you will turn your strictattention to the drill, to system and order, to forms also, which areall necessary to the soldier.

"By order of Lieutenant-Colonel P. St. George Cooke.

[Signed.] "P. C. Merrill, Adjutant."

It is stated by Sergeant Daniel Tyler, in his "History of the MormonBattalion," that February 4th was the date of the reading of the order.Its spirit and tone were an agreeable surprise to us, as the generaltenor of the colonel's course had been so different, apparently, thatwe did not look for him to do the battalion justice. Yet if he hadbeen less stern and decisive, it would have been worse for us. We hadstern realities to deal with, consequently like means were necessaryto overcome the obstacles we had to contend with. It required push andvim to enable the battalion to perform the heroic deeds demanded of it,and a sympathy that would have caused the men to shrink back insteadof seeing that every one stood to his post of duty would have been afatal error. After all, Col. P. St. George Cooke was a good militarycommander, maintaining excellent military discipline; and for one thewriter feels to say, Peaceful be his sleep.

It was about the 4th or 5th of February when we got back to themission, and the order given, with others, was made known. The otherorders included such directions as to trim the hair so that none camebelow the tip of the ear, and shave the beard all but the mustache.

We were informed that we had no right to think in acting forourselves—that the government paid men to think for us, and it was ourduty to obey orders. We were allowed very little time in which to washour rags and hunt down the insects that had waged a continuous warfareon us all the way from Albuquerque or the Rio Grande del Norte to thecoast; yet we turned on the creeping foe, and never relented till werouted him, nor showed any quarter till the last one was gone. We alsohad to repel an attack from the nimble flea in great numbers, in whichwe realized that this impudent insect did not care where he hit.

While we were still living on beef alone, without pepper or salt, wewere ordered out on squad drill, which seemed to continue about eighthours per day. The reason given for this was the supposed threatenedattack from eight hundred Californians in the mountains; and further,the rumors that Col. John C. Fremont, with eight hundred or a thousandmen, claimed it was his right, and not Gen. Kearney's, to dictateto the United States forces in California. In fact, it was reportedthat Col. Fremont was in open hostility to Gen. Kearney, who wasmilitary governor of California by orders from Washington. Under thesecircumstances, we were kept in constant readiness, not knowing themoment we would be called into active service.

Our training daily was one hour for each pound of beef issued, the beefcosting less than a cent a pound to the government. Sergeant Tyler saysour rations were five pounds a day, and I say it was not half enough,for we were ravenously hungry all the time. If the reader doubts this,let him try the ration for a little while, and doubt will disappear.

About February 25 we obtained bolted flour and some other supplies ofprovisions that had been brought from the Sandwich Islands, by MajorSward, to San Diego, and thence to San Luis del Rey by mule team. Inthe meantime we had received a small amount of unbolted flour, broughtby Lieutenant Oman and a small detachment of the battalion sent out forthe purpose. Then the beef rations were reduced; so that during thewhole twelve months' service we did not once have issued to us the fullrations allowed by the government to the American soldier—if we hadfull rations in one thing, another was lacking. Either the governmentmade a great saving from regulations in feeding us, or a steal putmoney into some contractors' pockets.

Day after day the duties of soldier were performed, drilling, out ondetached duty, or marching here, there and everywhere, early and late,by day and by night, just to suit the fancy of some of our officers,and not always upon real occasion for the movements. It would seem thatin many respects the soldier's life is much like a faithful wife's; andin others much unlike a woman's work. Like hers, in that the task seemsnever done, busy all day and up at every hour of night in response tocalls of first one child, then another, or even to the exploits ofsome mischievous cat, her rest broken and her life worn away; unlikehers, in that she usually has a dry shelter, regular meals, and aplace to lie down when she can rest, while the soldier in time of warnever knows where he will make his bed at night, often is without foodand drink, having to move at the word of command over deserts, rocks,mountains, plains and rivers—a stranger to the locality he may callhis home. But the toils of both are necessary, she to rear the nation'spride and strength—a soldier in the right; he to protect her andhimself, to defend their country's rights and avenge her wrongs.

Returning to the narrative of garrison duty, it appeared to me thehours of drill were more than Sergeant Tyler's account will admit of;but I shall not dispute with him, as I write from memory. I do recallthat roll call came at daylight, sick call at 7:30 a.m., breakfast callat 8:40, drill at 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. roll call at sundown, tattoo at8:30, and taps at 9 p.m., after which lights must be out except in caseof sickness. All must be silent then, as the men are supposed to haveretired for the night.

On or near the 20th of March, companies A, C, D and E took up theirjourney to the Puebla de Los Angeles. We traveled over a hilly country,where there were numerous herds of cattle and bands of horses. In someplaces we passed down to and along the sandy beach around big bluffsover which, so we were told, the Californians, some years previously,had driven thousands of horses and cattle to rid the country of them,as they had overrun the place so that all were suffering for food. Thisstory seemed confirmed by the great amount of bones that we saw amongthe rocks and sands at the foot of deep declivities along the seashore.

On the way to Los Angeles we passed a stone church that had been badlyshaken; the walls had been good mason work, but now were mostly brokendown. We were told that an earthquake did the damage, and that somethree hundred people had been killed. On by the San Gabriel River wewent, arriving at Los Angeles in about four days' march from where wehad started out. We marched into the main street and stacked our armsas if to say, "We have possession here."

Most of the citizens stood aloof, looking as if the cause they hadsupported was lost, but soon the merchants brought out buckets ofwhisky and wine, which they set before the command, inviting us to helpourselves. Some accepted the invitation rather freely, while othersrefrained from touching the beverages. We returned to the river atnight, and camped. In a day or two we were marched about two miles upthe stream, and above the town, where we again ran out of provisionsand had to go hungry; nor did we break our fast till 11 a.m. next day.

At this time the air was full of alarming rumors. A revolt of Californianswas talked of; then it was Fremont who was said to be inrebellion against General Kearney's authority; and again, a powerfulband of Indians was ready to pounce down upon us. It was not veryunexpectedly, therefore, that we received orders to occupy the mostcommanding point overlooking the town. Soon after this we learned thata supply of provisions for the command had been landed at San Pedro,about twenty-one miles distant, and teams and wagons were sent at once,under an escort of soldiers, the writer being one. We returned nextday, heavily loaded.

About this date, the command began the erection of a fort, or ratherbegan to throw up earthworks. Lieutenant Rosecranz was ordered with asmall detachment to Cajon Pass, a narrow opening in the Sierra Nevadarange, about eighty miles east of us. The object was to guard the passagainst the advance of any foe, for, as has been said, there were manyrumors of impending danger. In a short time, Lieutenant Pace, withtwenty-nine officers and men of the battalion—the writer being one ofthe number—received orders to relieve the detachment of LieutenantRosecranz. Pace's command had just reached the Rosecranz party, findingthe latter in the act of striking camp, when a dispatch came by ponyexpress ordering us to return as well.

On our march out, the wild cattle, which were there by thousands,became excited and began to bellow and crowd toward us. We could seethem for miles coming on the run. They closed in quickly until we weresurrounded by them on three sides, with a deep gulch or very brushyravine on the fourth. We retreated in double-quick time to this gulch,and were compelled to remain in what shelter it afforded until the nextday, before we could pass on in safety.

The unsettled state of the country kept us constantly busy. Our fortwas pushed to completion, and we having obtained what artillery ColonelFremont had, the twelve or fifteen pieces now in our possession wereplaced in proper position for defense. Everything was made as completeas could be, and the warclouds began to give way. Fremont had beenplaced under arrest for insubordination or rebellion, I do not recallwhich, and this contributed to the peace of the country.

A Spaniard was hired to haul a liberty pole from San Bernardino Canyon,a distance of eighty miles, and as he dared not undertake the journeywithout a military escort, Corporal Lafayette Shepherd and fourteenmen, among whom the writer was included, were sent to protect theSpaniard and help get the pole down to the fort. On that trip we campedon the present site of San Bernardino City, then a wild and lonelywilderness, with not a house or farm in sight. At that time the countryabounded in wild cattle, bear, and other wild animals.

Just where we came out on the plain we camped for the night, and in themorning our Spanish friend went out into the hills to see if he couldkill a deer. Soon he came upon a party of Indians jerking beef, and heshot into their camp. They came out, returned his fire, and gave himchase. We were getting breakfast when he dashed into our camp, shoutingthat the Indians were upon us, and for us to get our guns. Of course,we complied, and were ready in short order, but as no Indians came, theSpaniard insisted that we go in and rout them, as they were killing thecitizens' cattle, and our commander had given a promise of protectionfrom this. Hastily we saddled our mules and started, expecting everymoment to meet the Indians, who were on foot. We found no one before wecame to the campfires, around which was strewn considerable beef. Soonwe discovered the Indians fleeing up the mountain, and on our jadedmules we gave chase, but when we reached the summit the Indians weregoing up the opposite ridge. We dismounted and poured a few volleysinto the brush above them. They did not fire back. I do not think anyharm was done. They were fleeing for their lives and did not showany opposition to us, and we had no desire to harm them, but simplyto demonstrate to the Californians that as United States soldiers wewere ready to protect them and their property, as was promised by ourofficers.

We hastened back to the fort with our charge, the logs in the roughbeing about fifty feet each, the two making a pole between ninety andninety-five feet long when completed, which was done by the members ofthe battalion at the fort.

Another event about this period was an order by Colonel Cooke for adetail of good marksmen and trusty men to go through the town and shootor bayonet all the dogs to be found in the streets. The colonel hadnotified the town authorities of his intention. Accordingly the detailwas made and ammunition issued. The writer was one of the trustedmarksmen. We sallied forth in the town of Los Angeles, where the dogswere more numerous than human beings, and commenced our disagreeableand deadly work. Muskets rattled in every street and byway, dogs barkedand howled in every direction, and women and children wept to havethe animals spared. But military orders had to be obeyed, for the dognuisance had become intolerable. After that, there were sanitary orderssent forth, and the streets were cleared of the dogs and a great amountof bones and other rubbish.

With all this cleaning up, there still was tolerated the greaternuisances of liquor drinking, gambling, the most lewd and obsceneconduct that could be imagined, Sabbath breaking by horse racing, cockand bull righting, men righting and knifing one another—indeed, theSabbath was the greater day for all these vices.

Bull fighting was carried on inside of a square of one to four acressurrounded by one-story adobe flat-roofed houses, on which spectatorswould climb, and thus have an excellent view of the whole exhibitionof cruelty and bravado and jeopardy to life. Numbers of the wildestand most ferocious bulls were taken, and were brought into the arenaone at a time. The animal was turned loose, and a man would tease himinto fury with a sharp lance. A horseman would charge and make thrustafter thrust at the maddened bull, striving to pierce him just behindthe horns, the aim being to cut the pith of the spinal column at thatpoint. If this were done, the animal would fall dead on the spot. Asa general thing, the bull was more apt to gore the rider's horse, andgive the rider himself a very close call; but a number of very experthorsemen were kept in readiness to lasso the bull or cast a blanketover his eyes and thus blindfold him until his tormentor got out ofdanger. In this cruel sport many horses were sacrificed, and sometimesthe riders as well. It was not an unusual thing for a hundred or moreof these wild bulls to be collected at a time, and the bloody sport tobe kept up three or four days and perhaps more. Sometimes a grizzlybear would be captured and turned loose with a wild bull, the deathof one and perhaps both being the result. The whole populace seemedto enjoy this cruel sport, shouting and screaming thereat all the daylong. Males and females, of all ages and conditions, met on a commonlevel to witness this wild and reckless amusement.

Horse racing took place on the principal streets. One popular part ofthis pastime was to secure an old male chicken; this was buried all butthe head in a hole in the street, the soil being packed in as tight ascould be and have the bird live. An Indian stood by to rebury the fowlas fast as the horsemen resurrected him by seizing him by the head whenriding past at full speed. The aim was to swoop down, seize the cock'shead, pull the bird out of the hole, and hold to the head to the end ofthe contest, which was indulged in by a dozen or more. When one ridertore the bird from the hole all the others would charge on him and tryto capture it. The possessor would strike right and left, to hold hisprize, until the poor fowl was torn to pieces. Often the bird fell tothe ground alive, was buried again, and some one else would lead inthe dash for it. Just before the rider reached the fowl, a horsemanon either side would lash the horse unmercifully, so that the ridercould not slow up to get a better chance at the exposed head. This gamewould be continued till some one carried the fowl's head to the end intriumph.

It was said that a scheme existed to draw the attention of theAmericans during the most exciting of these sports, and then raid ourcamp; but if this ever was thought of it failed, for with us everythingwas kept in readiness for an emergency, and sometimes we lay at nightwith loaded muskets and fixed bayonets. Besides, we had become veryproficient in military tactics, and every man had learned well his dutyas a soldier.

The fort having been completed, and every reasonable anticipation forsurprise in the return of the Mexican forces or for an uprising havingbeen cut off, on the morning of the Fourth of July, 1847, the Stars andStripes was hoisted on the pole in triumph, and floated in the breezesfrom the Pacific Ocean—I think the first time that glorious bannerwaved from a liberty pole in California, although Commodore Sloat hadraised the American flag at Monterey on July 7, 1846.

CHAPTER XII.

TERM OF ENLISTMENT EXPIRES—BATTALION MEMBERS PREPARING TO RETURN TOTHEIR FAMILIES—ONE COMPANY RE-ENLISTS—AN INSOLENT SPANIARD—PISTOLSNAPPED IN THE WRITER'S FACE—ALMOST A DEATHBLOW—DESPERATE FIGHTSTOPPED BY BYSTANDERS—SERIOUS TROUBLE WITH ANOTHER SPANIARD—LEARNTHE LESSON TO AVOID THOSE WHO GAMBLE OR DRINK INTOXICANTS—SPANISHCHARACTER—CLASS OF CALIFORNIA'S INHABITANTS IN 1847—CONDITION OF THECOUNTRY—APPEARANCE OF THE TOWNS AND VILLAGES—DIFFICULTY IN SECURINGAN OUTFIT FOR MEMBERS OF THE BATTALION TO JOURNEY EASTWARD.

THE members of the Mormon Battalion had been purchasing horses andmules and a general outfit for a return to our friends at the closeof our term of enlistment, which was drawing nigh. At the same time,Col. Stephenson, of the New York volunteers, and other commissionedofficers, were making strenuous efforts to have us re-enlist foranother twelve months, or six months at least, telling us they hadauthority to impress us if they chose, but they preferred to have uscome as volunteers. It had been reported that although the Californianshad been whipped, there was not concord, and that as soon as the MormonBattalion left the country the Californians would revolt and make aneffort to overthrow United States supremacy; but while we remainedthere was no fear.

Now, as there were many of the battalion who had spent all theirwages—ninety-six dollars for their year's service—it may haveappeared to them that the only thing to do was to re-enlist. Horsescould be purchased cheaply, and provisions were not high, but somemoney was needed. Consequently, one company re-enlisted under Capt.Davis of company E, while the rest of the command were busy preparingfor their journey east to meet the Saints somewhere, they knew not justwhere.

Comparatively few of our command had acquired sufficient knowledgeof the Spanish language to do their own trading, and these acted asinterpreters for their comrades. The writer happened to be one ofthe few who had made some success in picking up the language. On oneoccasion, when hunting the town and adjacent country for such articlesas we needed in our outfit, he became fatigued and went into a cafefor a cup of coffee. On entering the restaurant he found, besides thelandlord, three or four good-appearing Spaniards, who soon began toquestion him about the United States and its people. Their questionswere being answered in a courteous manner, when the attendant, who wasa tall, fine-looking Spaniard, interposed with the remark that Americawas a fine country, but her soldiers were cowards and babies. Thewriter was alone, and scarcely knew how to treat the insult; besides,there was a possibility that it was intended as a joke. Therefore, hefelt that it would be improper to be too abrupt in replying, and said,quietly, that America was a good country and her soldiers were thebravest of the brave.

At that moment the Spanish-Californian stepped back and brought outan American hat that had been cut through on the side by some sharpinstrument. Said he: "Here is one's hat—I killed him in battle. Hewas a great baby." Reaching back, he brought out a dragoon's sword anda holster, with two iron-mounted U. S. pistols. His eyes flashed, andhe mimicked the dying soldier, saying all the Americans were cowards.My blood was up, and I taunted him by asking him how it was, if theAmericans were such cowards and babies, and fled from the Spaniards onthe battlefield, that the Americans had taken the country. Pointing tothe Stars and Stripes floating over the fort on the hill, I said, "Thatshows where the brave men are; it is the Californians who are cowardsand babies." In an instant a pistol was snapped in my face, and I sawthe fire roll from the flintlock. Quick as a flash, I caught a heavyknife that was handy, leaped on to the counter, and was bringing theweapon down on the head of my assailant, when both of us were seized bybystanders, and were disarmed. I started for camp, but was dragged backto compromise the affair. When I re-entered the room the proprietorwas priming his weapon with mustard seed. He said it was all fun, andwe should make up. The spectators were anxious to settle, and offeredto treat. Some of the Spaniards expressed regret at the occurrence.The matter was dropped, though I never was convinced that that Spanishattendant did not have murder in his heart.

On another occasion I had an unpleasant experience with anotherSpaniard. It was when I was on guard duty at the prison in Los Angeles.A very large, well dressed Spaniard came across the street from adrinking saloon and gambling den. He wore a large sombrero worth abouteight dollars. He had been gambling and drinking, but was not drunk.Said he, "I have lost all my money, and I want to leave this hat withyou for four dollars. If I do not bring the money back, you may keepthe hat; it is worth eight dollars, and will sell for that any day."His offer was rejected, when he showed some displeasure, againurging the loan, and promising to bring the money back in a short time.Finally he prevailed, left the hat and took the money.

In two or three hours the Spaniard returned, saying he wanted hissombrero, at the same time promising to bring the money next day. Ofcourse this proposition was rejected, whereupon he showed considerabletemper, but at last said it was all right, he would find the money; andadded, "Come over to the saloon and have a drink of wine, and we willbe good friends." Thinking that would settle the matter, I compliedwith his request. He had on a long Spanish sarapa, or blanket, and aswe neared the door he stepped ahead, leaned over the counter, and saidsomething to the bartender. As I entered the door I was again asked forthe hat, and he in turn was requested to hand over the money. He grewangry, threatened, and finally challenged me to fight. As I squared offto meet his impending assault, the Spaniard drew a large bowie knifefor a thrust at me, but was stopped by some bystanders. I was at thetime nineteen years of age, and my young blood was thoroughly aroused.I rushed for my musket, which was loaded and had bayonet fixed, andwith the hurting end foremost I was quickly back at the saloon,forcibly declaring my readiness for the conflict. The bystanders closedin and called for peace, the four dollars was soon raised, and thesombrero found its way back into the hands of its angry owner, whodisplayed considerable effect of the liquor he had been drinking. But Ilearned an impressive lesson, namely, to avoid the companionship of menwho drink intoxicants or who follow games of chance for a livelihood.Even if a man does not indulge himself, those who do are liable toask favors, and if these are not granted the next thing is insult,which often ends in bloodshed, or did in those days in California. Inillustration of the light estimate of human life, I can recall a man'sfoot being kicked about the street, and no more notice being taken ofit than if it were an animal's.

As to Spanish character, the writer can say from a close acquaintancethat when the Spaniards are sober and friendly, they are very friendly,hospitable and polite, being very good company; in fact, we seldommet with a more wholesouled and agreeable people. Yet it is doubtfulif there are any people who will resent an insult quicker and moreseriously than they will. They are brave and manly; yet those who areof mixed blood, such as the Greasers, are low, degraded, treacherousand cruel. In California there were a few of the higher class, manymore of a medium kind, and still more of the lower class; so that insumming up the total of California's inhabitants in 1846-7, the countrywas only half civilized and thinly inhabited.

At that time the country was wild, being overrun with wilder horses,cattle, sheep and goats. In places, wild oats and mustard abounded,in many sections the mustard being as high as a man's head when onhorseback, and so dense that a horse could be forced only a fewfeet through it. In the foothills and mountains wild game was veryabundant, consisting of elk, deer, bear, and smaller game. Along thewater courses and on the lakes waterfowl was plentiful. There weremillions of acres of uncultivated land, as good as any on the globe.The climate is scarcely equalled anywhere. The chief products of thesoil then were wheat, barley, beans, peas, apples, peaches, plums,apricots, pears, dates, figs, olives, grapes, black pepper, spices,and many fruits not named here. These all seemed to grow very near toperfection, especially when properly cared for. The greater part ofthe labor was performed by native Indians, and that too with the mostprimitive tools. The buildings were low, being one-story adobe, withflat roofs covered with cement, or a natural tar that exuded from theearth; sometimes tile was used, but I do not remember seeing one brickbuilding or shingle roof in all the land.

Under the conditions which existed, it was no easy matter for a hundredand fifty men to get an outfit together to travel over the mountainseast, as that number of the battalion intended to do; but havingcommenced before we were discharged from service—say some time inJune—to purchase our horses, saddles, and everything necessary for apack train, we were partly prepared for the journey when the day camefor us to be mustered out.

CHAPTER XIII.

MORMON BATTALION MUSTERED OUT OF SERVICE—ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTYMEMBERS ORGANIZE TO RETURN EAST TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS—START ON THEJOURNEY—DIFFICULTIES OF THE ROUTE—DEALING WITH WILD HORSES ANDCATTLE—STAMPEDE OF A PACK ANIMAL—CHASE INTO AN INDIAN CAMP—LOST ALLNIGHT IN A SWAMP—SUFFERING ON THE DESERT FOR LACK OF WATER—ARRIVENEAR SUTTER'S FORT—ON THE SITE OF SACRAMENTO—PARTY DECIDE TO REMAINOVER FOR THE YEAR, AND OBTAIN EMPLOYMENT—MEET CAPT. J. A. SUTTER ANDJAMES W. MARSHALL—PROPOSITION TO CAPT. SUTTER—ENGAGED TO WORK ONA SAWMILL—PROCEEDINGS AT THE MILLSITE—MILL STARTED UP—THE WRITERENGAGED TO DIRECT INDIANS LABORING AT THE TAIL RACE—CONVERSATION WITHMR. MARSHALL—MARSHALL TALKS ABOUT FINDING GOLD—HE AND THE WRITER MAKEA SEARCH FOR GOLD, BUT FINDING NONE, DEFER THE INVESTIGATION TILL NEXTMORNING—MARSHALL'S FAITH IN HIS BEING SUCCESSFUL IN DISCOVERING THEPRECIOUS METAL.

ON the 16th of July, 1847, the close of the Mormon Battalion's term ofenlistment, we were called into line, and an officer passed along as inordinary inspection. Then, without further ceremony, he said. "You aredischarged." I do not think one-half of the command heard him, he spokeso low. Some of us thought he may have felt ashamed because of hisconduct toward us on our march to Santa Fe. He was the little bigot,Lieutenant A. J. Smith.

Thus we bade adieu to United States military authority and returnedto the ranks of civil life. One hundred and fifty of us organizedourselves into hundreds, fifties and tens, and were soon on our wayto meet our friends somewhere, as we supposed, in the Rocky Mountainseast; and still we did not know just where. We sought information asbest we could, and the most that we could learn was that by followingunder the base of the Sierra Nevada range six hundred miles we wouldcome to Sutter's Fort, where we could obtain further information as tothe best route to where we supposed we would find our friends.

It was about the 20th of July when the first company moved out on theintended journey; and in three or four days the remaining hundredfollowed. We passed Gen. Pico's ranch about twenty miles northward,and from there crossed over a mountain so high and steep that it madeour heads swim, and it was with difficulty that we could sit on ourhorses. In places, it was impossible for us to dismount, for lack ofroom. Two mules lost their footing and fell twenty-five or thirty feetbefore they could regain a foothold, and it was very hard work to getthem back on the trail. We traveled some eighteen or twenty miles fromPico's ranch to Francisco ranch, where we joined the fifty who hadpreceded the main body, and were waiting for us to come up.

A meeting was held, at which it was decided to purchase forty or fiftybeef cattle, which was done at not to exceed four dollars per head. Thecourse of our journey from this time was northward. The country wherewe were traveling was a wilderness of hill and dale, deep gorges, andbrush, so that the first two days we lost ten or fifteen head of beefcattle. It was decided to make sure of the remainder by slaughteringand jerking or curing the beef, and next morning there came a battlewith the cattle, which had become wild and ferocious, plunging at themen on horseback everywhere, so we had to shoot them down as best wecould. After stopping two or three days to jerk the beef, we proceededon our journey.

Many of our horses were bronchos, or wild, when we purchased them, andgave us much trouble. The packs would get loose and turn under theanimals, which would run and kick, scattering things as they went.One day Alexander Stephens, William Garner and I had a horse stampedewith its burden. I gave pursuit, and as I had no thought of anythingbut capturing the animal, I chased it about three miles, right intoan Indian camp. The Indians must have seen me coming and fled. Theirfires were burning, pots boiling, and camp equipage laid around. Fromappearances there must have been fifteen to twenty families; theirtracks were thick and fresh. The runaway horse seems to have beenso excited that, like its pursuer, it ran in among the camp beforeobserving the danger; then it turned and I secured it with a lasso.At that moment I recognized the peril of my own position, in thepossibility of being ambushed by Indians. It may be needless to statethat I got out of that place in a hurry; although I had lost sight ofthe camp and was confused for a little time till I found my trail.

Upon returning, I met my two comrades, who had had all they could doto take care of the other pack animals, and were very anxious aboutme. It was getting late in the day, and the company had passed out ofsight. We followed as fast as we could, but darkness overtook us andwe soon found ourselves wandering in the bullrushes and marshes of theeast end of Tulare Lake. Turn which way we would we could not find anytrail out. At last we found a spot more solid than the surroundings;we halted and felt around in the darkness; every way we went it wasmud and water. The night was so dark that we could not see each otheror the horses, and finally we tied the animals together so we couldhold them, took off the pack, and waited around till daylight. I do notthink either of us slept fifteen minutes that night. We had nothing tomake a fire with, and if we had, it would not have been wise to haveattracted savage Indians with one. Early in the morning we prepared toseek a way out, and to our surprise, discovered close by a bullrushboat which an aged Indian was pushing through the rushes. The boat hadbeen made by twisting and braiding the rushes together, and reminded usof what the prophet says about embassadors going forth in vessels ofbullrushes. We could not learn from whence the Indian came or whitherhe was going, nor yet his errand. We bade him good day, and soon foundthe trail of our company. After going three or four miles, we met someof our men who had been sent in search of us; they had passed the nightin great anxiety concerning our safety. Thankfully we reached the campto have a bite of food and proceed on our journey, grateful that we yethad our hair on the top of our heads, where the darkey says; "the woolought to grow."

Our journey took us over cold mountain streams, some of which weforded, carrying our baggage on our heads and making from three to fivetrips each way; others we built rafts for, by tying dry logs togetherwith our lash-ropes, piling them with baggage, and drawing them overor pushing them with poles, the men swimming their horses and oftenthemselves. These streams were quite numerous. Among those I rememberwere the Tulare, the San Joaquin River, and others. The crossing ofthese streams was hard on man and beast, the water being cold close tothe mountains, and the work hazardous owing to the rapid currents andboulders in the channels of the rivers. On this journey we were twodays on dry plains, and suffered almost to death; some of our horsesbecame so thirsty that their eyes turned white as milk and blind asbats; they staggered against anything they came to. Some of the mengave out entirely, and if it had not been for some of the stronger menand horses that pushed forward and then returned to aid the others,many of the latter never would have been able to have reached camp. Menhad their tongues swollen and eyes sunken and glazed; some could notdrink water when it was brought to them, until their lips and mouthshad been bathed and some of the liquid poured into their throats.Fortunately for the writer, he was one of the stronger ones who wentahead and returned to his comrades the last day on the desert; thescene was terrible beyond the powers of description.

Fully five hundred and fifty miles of that journey was made withoutseeing a house, or a white woman or child. There were many Indiansand their ranches, but the savages gave us no particular trouble. Wepressed forward till August 26, when we came to the American River,two miles above Sutter's Fort and about a mile and a half from theSacramento River, at the point where the city of Sacramento now stands.The locality was then a forest of cottonwood timber and undergrowth.

When we reached the vicinity of Sutter's Fort a consultation was held,at which it was decided that most of the party would remain untilnext year, and obtain employment where they could. Captain John A.Sutter and James Marshall contemplated building a gristmill and also asawmill, but had no skilled workmen to perform the task. Accordingly,a committee was appointed from our number, who informed CaptainSutter that we had among us carpenters, blacksmiths, wheelwrights,millwrights, farmers and common laborers; that we were in need ofhorses, cattle, and a general outfit for crossing the mountains earlythe next summer, and that if we could not get all money for our paywe would take part in supplies for our journey; the committee alsoinquired what the prospect for employment was. Captain Sutter gave thecommittee encouragement, and asked them to call on him again in two orthree days.

The result was, that between August 29 and September 5, from forty tosixty of us called on Captain Sutter. Some were employed to work on thegristmill; others took contracts on the mill race. The race was sevenor eight miles long, and was also intended for irrigation.

Between the 8th and the 11th of September, Alexander Stephens, JamesBerger and the writer started for the site that had been selected byMr. Marshall for the sawmill; we were the first Mormons to arrive atthe place. Peter L. Wimmer and family and William Scott had precededus a few days, having two wagons loaded with tools and provisions; theteams were oxen, and were driven by two of Captain Sutter's civilizedIndians. Some weeks after we went up, Henry W. Bigler, Azariah Smith,William Johnston, and Israel Evans, members of the Mormon Battalion,came to the camp.

Upon our arrival at the millsite, work was begun in earnest. The cabinwas finished, a second room being put on in true frontier style. Whilesome worked on the cabin, others were getting out timbers and preparingfor the erection of the sawmill. The site was at a point where theriver made considerable of a bend, just in the bank of what appeared tobe an old river bed, which was lowered to carry the water from the mill.

Between January 15th and 20th, 1848, the mill was started up. It wasfound that it had been set too low, and the tail race would not carryoff the water, which would drown or kill the flutter wheel. To remedythis defect, several new pieces of timber were needed, and all handswere put to work within ten or fifteen rods of the tail race, gettingout the timbers.

Part of the time I was engaged in directing the labors of a gang ofDigger Indians, as I had picked up sufficient of their dialect to makethem understand me clearly. It had been customary to hoist the gates ofthe forebay when we quit work in the evening, letting the water throughthe race to wash away the loosened sand and gravel, then close themdown in the morning. The Indians were employed to dig and cast out thecable rock that was not moved by the water.

On January 23, I had turned away from the Indians and was with thewhite men. Mr. Marshall came along to look over the work in general,and went to where the tail race entered the river. There he discovereda bed of rock that had been exposed by the water the night before, theportion in view in the bottom of the race being three to six feet wideand fifteen to twenty feet long. Mr. Marshall called me to him as heexamined the bed of the race, and said: "This is a curious rock; I amafraid it will give us trouble." Then he probed a little further, andadded: "I believe it contains minerals of some kind, and I believethere is gold in these hills."

At this statement I inquired, "What makes you think so?" He answeredthat he had seen blossom of gold, and upon my asking where, he said itwas the white quartz scattered over the hills; on my inquiring furtheras to what quartz was, he told me it was the white, flint-like rock soplentiful on the hills. I said it was flint rock, but he said no, itwas called quartz in some book he had read, and was an indication ofgold. He sent me to the cabin for a pan to wash the sand and gravel,and see what we could find. I went to a cabin which had been built nearthe millsite by Alexander Stephens, Henry W. Bigler, James Berger,Azariah Smith, William Johnston and myself, and in which we were doingour own cooking. I brought the pan and we washed some of the bedrockthat we had scaled up with a pick. As we had no idea of the appearanceof gold in its natural state, our search was unsuccessful.

Mr. Marshall was determined to investigate further, but it was no usethat night. He rose and said: "We will hoist the gates and turn in allthe water that we can tonight, and tomorrow morning we will shut itoff and come down here, and I believe we will find gold or some othermineral here."

CHAPTER XIV.

ARRIVAL OF MEMBERS OF THE MORMON BATTALION AT SUTTER'S FORT OPENS THEWAY FOR THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD IN CALIFORNIA—JAMES W. MARSHALL OUTEARLY ON JANUARY 24, 1848—"HE IS GOING TO FIND A GOLD MINE"—REGARDEDAS A "NOTIONAL" MAN—"BOYS, I HAVE GOT HER NOW!"—TESTING THE SCALESOF METAL—"GOLD, BOYS, GOLD!"—FIRST PROCLAMATION OF THE GREAT GOLDDISCOVERY—SECOND AND THIRD TESTS—ALL EXCITEMENT—THREE OR FOUROUNCES OF GOLD GATHERED—AGREE TO KEEP THE DISCOVERY SECRET—FINDTHE PRECIOUS METAL FARTHER DOWN THE STREAM—HOW THE SECRET LEASEDOUT—MORE DISCOVERIES—FIRST PUBLICATION OF THE NEWS MADE IN AMORMON PAPER—WASHING OUT THE METAL—FIRST GOLD ROCKER—GATHERINGGOLD—PART TAKEN BY MR. MARSHALL, THE MORMONS AND CAPTAIN SUTTER INTHE DISCOVERY—MISFORTUNES OF SUTTER AND MARSHALL—ACCOUNT OF THE GOLDDISCOVERY CERTIFIED TO BY SEVERAL EYE WITNESSES.

IT is my understanding that when Captain Sutter and Mr. Marshallwere contemplating the erection of the two mills, an apparentlyinsurmountable obstacle confronted them in the inability to get andpay for the skilled labor necessary for portions of the work. Thisobstacle was removed by the proposition our committee had made toCaptain Sutter at the first interview; and in the two or three days'time asked in August, 1847, by the captain, a decision was reached togo ahead. Therefore, if it had not been for the opportune appearance ofthe mustered-out members of the Mormon Battalion, the sawmill would nothave been built that winter, nor would the discovery of gold have beenmade at that time. But for the action of those Mormons in connectionwith the enterprise proposed by Captain Sutter and Mr. Marshall, inoffering the desired class of labor upon the terms they did, the stateof California might have waited indefinitely to have been developed andto be christened the Golden State, and the entrance to the bay of SanFrancisco might never have received the title of the Golden Gate.

Resuming the narrative of my association with Mr. Marshall on theafternoon of January 23rd, I will state further that each of us wentour way for the night, and did not meet again till next morning. Ithought little of what Marshall had said of finding gold, as he waslooked on as rather a "notional" kind of man; I do not think I evenmentioned his conversation to my associates. At an unusually early hourin the morning, however, those of us who occupied the cabin heard ahammering at the mill. "Who is that pounding so early?" was asked, andone of our party looked out and said it was Marshall shutting the gatesof the forebay down. This recalled to my mind what Mr. Marshall hadsaid to me the evening before, and I remarked, "Oh, he is going to finda gold mine this morning."

A smile of derision stole over the faces of the parties present. We ateour breakfast and went to work. James Berger and myself went to thewhipsaw, and the rest of the men some eight or ten rods away from themill. I was close to the mill and sawpit, and was also close to thetail race, where I could direct the Indians who were there.

This was the 24th day of January, 1848. When we had got partly to work,Mr. Marshall came, with his old wool hat in his hand. He stopped withinsix or eight yards of the sawpit, and exclaimed, "Boys, I have got hernow!" Being the nearest to him, and having more curiosity than therest of the men, I jumped from the pit and stepped to him. On lookinginto his hat I discovered ten or twelve pieces or small scales of whatproved to be gold. I picked up the largest piece, worth about fiftycents, and tested it with my teeth; as it did not give, I held it aloftand exclaimed, "Gold, boys, gold!" At that, all dropped their toolsand gathered around Mr. Marshall. Having made the first proclamationof the very important fact that the metal was gold, I stepped to thework bench and put it to the second test with the hammer. As I wasdoing this it occurred to me that while en route to California with theMormon Battalion, we came to some timber called manzanita. Our guidesand interpreters said the wood was what the Mexicans smelted their goldand silver ores with. It is a hard wood and makes a very hot fire, andalso burns a long time. Remembering that we had left a very hot bed ofthese coals in the fireplace of the cabin, I hurried there and made thethird test by placing the metal upon the point of an old shovel blade,and then inserted it in among the coals. I blew the coals until I wasblind for the moment, in trying to burn or melt the particles; andalthough these were plated almost as thin as a sheet of note paper, theheat did not change their appearance in the least. I remembered hearingthat gold could not be burned up, so I arose from this third test,confident that what had been found was gold. Running out to the partystill grouped together, I made the second proclamation, saying, "Gold,gold!"

At this juncture all was excitement. We repaired to the lower end ofthe tail race, where we found from three to six inches of water flowingover the bed of rock, in which there were crevices and little pockets,over which the water rippled in the glare of the sunlight as that shoneover the mountain peaks. James Berger was the first man to espy a scaleof the metal. He stooped to pick it up, and found some difficulty ingetting hold of it, as his fingers would blur the water, but he finallysucceeded. The next man to find a piece was H. W. Bigler; he used hisjack-knife, getting the scale on the point of the blade, then, with hisforefinger over it placed it in his left hand.

As soon as we learned how to look for it, since it glittered under thewater in the rays of the sun, we were all rewarded with a few scales.Each put his mite into a small phial that was provided by Marshall, andwe made him the custodian. We repeated our visits to the tail race forthree or four mornings, each time collecting some of the precious metaluntil we had gathered somewhere between three and four ounces.

The next move was to step and stake off two quarter sections, beginningat the mill, one running down the river and the other up. Then wecut and hauled logs and laid the foundation of a cabin on each ofthem; one was for Sutter, the other for Marshall. This matter beingfinished, Mr. Marshall was prepared to dictate terms to us, for everytool and all the provisions in that part of the country belonged toSutter and Marshall. They had full control, and we were depending onthe completion of the mill for our pay. Marshall said that if we wouldstay by him until the mill was completed and well stocked with logs, hewould supply us with provisions and tools, and would grant us the firstright to work on their gold claims. We all assented to his proposition,and also agreed that we would not disclose the secret of the golddiscovery until we learned more about it and had made good our claims.Not having the remotest idea of the extent of the gold deposits, wepushed the mill as rapidly as possible; for as yet we had not receivedone dollar's pay for our four months' labor.

Soon there came a rainy day, when it was too wet to work. H. W. Biglerthought it a good day to hunt ducks, so he put on an old coat, and wasgone all day. When he returned, we said, "Where are your ducks?"

He said, "Wait a while, I will show you; I have got them all right."

Finally he drew an old cotton handkerchief from his pocket; in thecorner of it he had at least half an ounce of gold tied up. For a whileall were excited, and he was asked a great many questions like thefollowing: "Did you find it on Sutter's claim along the river?" "Howfar is it from here?" "All in one place?" "Is there any more?" "How didyou get it, you had no pick or shovel?" "Can you find the place again?"

He replied that he had found it down below Sutter's claim, along theriver where the bedrock cropped out along the bank, and in little rillsthat came down the hills to the river, indeed, everywhere that he foundthe bedrock cropping out.

"Then you found it in more than one place?"

"Yes, more than a dozen."

It was now proposed that we keep this discovery a secret, as thediscovery in the race had been kept. So the mill work was pushed withvigor to completion. But in the meantime Marshall had felt it his dutyto inform his partner of the discovery. Accordingly, he wrote a letterstating the facts, and sent me out to find a strange Indian who wouldtake it to Captain Sutter, fearing that if he sent it by someone whowas acquainted with the circumstances the secret might leak out. Aboutthis time Wm. Johnston found that he had some urgent business below andmust go there, and did so; he went to the gristmill and along the campson that mill race. Then somehow or other the bag came untied and ourold cat and all the kittens ran out, and to the camps they went, untileverybody heard of the gold discovery. But, like all great truths,people were slow to believe the story.

In a short time, however, Sidney S. S. Willis and Wilford Hudson, whosecuriosity had been aroused, began to feel that they would like a littlevenison; and with that for an excuse they took their guns and set outon foot, having been assured that by following up the river they wouldcome to the sawmill, which they succeeded in doing the first day. Ithink it was only a thirty-five miles journey. I believe they stayedone day and two nights with us; then, after a thorough examination ofthe bedrock, sand and gravel, and the surroundings, they gathered a fewspecimens, among which was one nugget worth about five dollars—thelargest by long odds that had been discovered up to that time.

As Willis and Hudson passed back on their way home, they discovereda small ravine or creek in which there was some of the same kind ofbedrock which they had seen at the mill race, and by picking aroundin the sand and gravel they discovered quite a rich prospect. Thatwas just above what was afterwards called Mormon Island, about twelveor fifteen miles above the gristmill, and about the same distancebelow the sawmill. Then they returned to the mill, told their story,and showed the specimens to the boys. Some of these went to Sutter'sFort, to a little grocery store kept by a Mormon named Smith, who camearound Cape Horn to California by the ship Brooklyn. The story of thefind was told, and specimens exhibited to Smith, who wrote to SamuelBrannan. The latter was publishing a paper in San Francisco at thetime; and from that press the news went forth to the world. Brannan wasa Mormon Elder, and the press was owned by a company of Mormons who hadsailed from New York around Cape Horn, and were presided over by SamuelBrannan.

From one hundred to one hundred and fifty Mormons flocked to MormonIsland; then people from every part of the United States followed, andthe search for gold commenced in earnest. With jack, butcher, and tableknives, the search was made in the crevices, after stripping the soilfrom the bedrock with pick and shovel. Next, we conceived the idea ofwashing the sand and fine gravel in tin pans, but these were scarceand hard to get hold of. Alexander Stephens dug out a trough, leavingthe bottom round like a log. He would fill that with sand and gravelthat we scraped off the bedrock, and would shake it, having arranged itso as to to pour or run water on the gravel; finally he commenced torock the trough, which led to the idea of a rocker. His process causedthe gold to settle at the bottom; then he arranged the apparatus on anincline so that the gold would work down and also to the lower end ofthe trough. At short intervals he would turn what was collected into atub of water, and at night it would be cleaned and weighed on a pair ofwooden scales that Stephens made also, using silver coins for weights,counting the silver dollar equal to one ounce of gold. This rocker ledto the renowned gold rocker; I am under the impression that Stephensmade the first rocker ever used in California.

The next and last process that we used in gathering gold was to spreada sheet on the sandy beach of the river, placing some big rocks on thecorners and sides to keep it well stretched. We then would fill in therich dirt on the upper edge, and throw on water to wash the dirt downinto the river, leaving the gold on the sheet. Occasionally we tookup the sheet and dipped it into a tub of water, washing the gold offthe sheet into the tub. At night we would clean up our day's work,averaging from twelve to fifteen dollars each. Our best paying dirt wascarried on our shoulders from Dry Gulch, fifteen to sixty rods to wherewe could find water to wash it. We made buckskin pouches or wallets tocarry the gold in; it was not dust, nor yet nuggets, but small scales.

Sutter's capital and enterprise and Marshall's shrewd sagacity havebeen given the credit of the great gold discovery in California. Thefacts are, that James W. Marshall discovered the first color; in lessthan an hour six Mormons found color as well, and within six weeksMormons had discovered it in hundreds of places that Mr. Marshall hadnever seen, the most notable of which was Mormon Island, to where thefirst rush was made, and from where the news was spread to the world.As to Sutter's enterprise and capital, he furnished the graham flourand mutton, wheat and peas, black coffee and brown sugar, teams andtools, while we, the members of the Mormon Battalion, did the hardlabor that discovered the metal. It is also true that we were inSutter's employ at that date, and that we did not get paid for ourlabor. I worked one hundred days for the firm, and never received afarthing for it. I heard a number of other men say they never got theirpay. It was our labor that developed the find, and not Marshall's andSutter's, and we were never paid for it; when we went for a settlementwe were told by Captain Sutter that he could not settle with us, forhis bookkeeper had gone to the mines, and his books were not posted. Hecursed Marshall and the mines, and declared that he was a ruined man;that the discovery was his ruin, for it had drawn off his laborers andleft everything to go to rack, and that he was being robbed.

I do not wish it to be understood that I charge Sutter and Marshallwith being dishonorable, for I do not. I think they were honorable menin a business way. The fact is, they were completely overrun with allclasses of people, and were confused, so that the people took advantageof them, their business was undermined, and there was a generalcollapse of their affairs and of every industry and business. The crywas, "Gold! Gold! More Gold! Away to the gold fields!" Every otherenterprise was sacrificed in the rush for gold.

With due respect to Captain John A. Sutter and James W. Marshall,to whom the world has given the credit for the great gold find, Ibelieve that if they had been taken out and shot to death the day ofthe discovery, they would have suffered less, and would have met theirMaker just as pure, if not more honored in this world, than to havelived and endured what they did. As far as I am concerned, I say peaceto their remains, for on this earth they have been greatly wronged, ifI have read their history correctly. Like a lynching scrape where thereis an outburst of the people, it is very difficult to find those whoare responsible for the crime. Regarding the wrongs did these men, itseemed as if the whole population of that locality picked on them.

I will add here, that my account of the gold discovery in Californiawas submitted in 1893 to the following members of the party who were atthe place in January, 1848, and who were the only survivors within myreach at the time: Orrin Hatch and William S. Muir, Woods Cross, DavisCounty; George W. Boyd, and H. D. Merrill, Salt Lake City; and IsraelEvans, Lehi, Utah County, Utah. They united in giving me a certificatethat they knew this account to be a true and correct statement of thediscovery of gold in California, at Sutter's mill race.

CHAPTER XV.

PREPARE TO LEAVE CALIFORNIA—SNOW IN THE MOUNTAIN—CAUSES A WAITTILL THE LAST OF JUNE—DISCOVER A RICH GOLD PROSPECT—LEAVE IT TOMAKE THE JOURNEY OVER THE MOUNTAINS—NO REGRETS AT ABANDONING THEMINES IN ANSWER TO THE CALL OF DUTY—CAMP ORGANIZED IN PLEASANTVALLEY—START ON THE TRIP—THREE MEMBERS OF THE PARTY AHEAD, LOOKINGOUT THE ROUTE, FOUND MURDERED MY INDIANS AT TRAGEDY SPRINGS—COVERINGTHE BODIES—STAMPEDE OF ANIMALS—GUARDING AGAINST HOSTILEINDIANS—CROSSING THE DIVIDE IN SNOW—THE WRITER FOOLED—TAKE TWOINDIANS PRISONERS—CUTTING A ROAD—HORSES STOLEN BY INDIANS—PURSUITTO CAPTURE THEM—IN CARSON VALLEY—ALONG HUMBOLDT RIVER—AT STEAMBOATSPRINGS—OVER THE DESERT—MEMBER OF THE PARTY WANTS TO KILLINDIANS—THE WRITER'S EMPHATIC OBJECTION—INDIANS WOUND STOCK—ADDISONPRATT AS A LUCKY FISHERMAN—WRITER TRADES WITH AN INDIAN—THE REDMAN'S TRICK—WRITER PURSUES HIM INTO THE INDIAN CAMP—ESCAPE FROMDANGER—JOURNEY TO BEAR RIVER—HOT AND COLD WATER SPRINGS—REACH BOXELDER—VIEW THE GREAT SALT LAKE—ARRIVE AT OGDEN, WHERE CAPTAIN BROWNAND SOME SAINTS HAD SETTLED—JOURNEY TO THE MORMON CAMP ON WHAT IS NOWPIONEER SQUARE, SALT LAKE CITY—HEARTILY WELCOMED BY RELATIVES ANDFRIENDS—REJOICING AND THANKSGIVING.

IN June, 1848, some thirty-seven members of the Mormon Battalionrendezvoused at a flat some six or eight miles from Coloma, California,near where the first gold discovery was made. This assemblage waspreparatory to crossing the Sierra Nevada mountains at or near thehead of the American River; for we had learned that it was next toimpossible to take wagons at this time of the year by what was calledthe Truckee route, and as we had become accustomed to pioneer life itwas thought we could find a better route, so it was proposed to openup one by the way stated. We had been successful in getting a fewhundred dollars each from the mines, and had fitted ourselves out withwagons and ox teams, seeds and tools; for our protection on the journeywe bought of Captain Sutter two brass Russian cannon, one a fourpounder and the other a six-pounder.

Some of the company, eight or ten, had pitched camp at the siteselected, and were waiting for others who were tardy in gettingtheir outfit. Early in May, a party consisting of David Browett, IraJ. Willis, J. C. Sly, Israel Evans, Jacob M. Truman, Daniel Allen,Henderson Cox, Robert Pixton, and, I think, J. R. Allred, went outabout two or three days ahead, and found the country covered with deepsnow, so that at that time it was impracticable to go forward with thewagons; the party therefore returned to the main camp, and waited tillthe last of June. During this wait, David Browett, Daniel Allen andHenderson Cox, being anxious to be moving, started a second time tosearch out the route, and were surprised at night and all were killedby Digger Indians. They had been gone some eight or ten days beforethe main body got together, and about twenty days before we started.Alexander Stephens and I, it seems to me, and some two or three others,did not join the party, as I remember, until June 29.

The day before starting from the gold diggings on our journey was kindof an off-day, in which the writer had some spare time and wandered offfrom camp, with pick and shovel, up into a dry gulch, where he soonstruck a very rich prospect of gold, about a quarter of a mile fromwater. This was about 11 o'clock a.m. By sundown he had carried therich dirt down in his pantaloons, and washed out forty-nine dollarsand fifty cents in gold; yet kind reader, strange as it may appear,he, with his partners, hitched up and rolled out the next morning, andjoined the main camp at what we called Pleasant Valley, but now, Ithink, known as Dutch Flat. I have never seen that rich spot of earthsince; nor do I regret it, for there always has been a higher objectbefore me than gold. We had covenanted to move together under certainconditions, and those conditions existing we were in honor bound tomove the next day. We did move, leaving that rich prospect without eversticking a stake in the gulch, but abandoning it to those who mightfollow. Some may think we were blind to our own interests; but aftermore than forty years we look back without regrets, although we did seefortunes in the land, and had many inducements to stay. People said,"Here is gold on the bedrock, gold on the hills, gold in the rills,gold everywhere, gold to spend, gold to lend, gold for all that willdelve, and soon you can make an independent fortune." We could realizeall that. Still duty called, our honor was at stake, we had covenantedwith each other, there was a principle involved; for with us it was Godand His kingdom first. We had friends and relatives in the wilderness,yea, in an untried, desert land, and who knew their condition? We didnot. So it was duty before pleasure, before wealth, and with thisprompting we rolled out and joined our comrades in Pleasant Valley.

At our camp in Pleasant Valley we organized with Jonathan Holmes aspresident, and with captains of tens. Then there were chosen eight ornine vaqueros or herdsmen, to take charge of all the loose stock from 4a.m. till 8 p.m.; but in the main the herdsmen were the chief pioneersfor the camp. I remember only a few of them: W. Sidney, S. S. Willis,Israel Evans, Jacob M. Truman, Wesley Adair and James S. Brown.

The date of our start from Pleasant Valley I cannot now recall, furtherthan that it was between the 25th of June and the 1st of July. Wemade slow progress, for the road was very rough. About six of us rodeahead, and looked out and marked the route. We would go ahead half theday, and then return to meet the train, often finding them camped, themen working the road, cutting the timber, rolling rock, and diggingdugways, or mending wagons. Sometimes we had to lay over a day or twoto make the road passable.

Thus we pushed forward on our journey till we came to a place we calledTragedy Springs, for near a beautiful spring at this place we found theremains of the three brethren who had preceded us, they having beenmurdered by Indians, and buried in a shallow grave. We first foundbloody arrows, then stones with blood on them, then the nude bodies,partly uncovered; these were recognized by Daniel Allen's purse of goldnear by. Our feelings cannot be described through the medium of thepen, therefore I must leave these to the reader's imagination. We builta wall of rough rock around the grave, then covered it with flat stonesto protect the bodies from wild beasts. This was the best we could do,for the bodies were so decomposed that we could not do more. The namesof the deceased and manner of death, with proper dates, were cut in alarge tree that stood near by.

The night we came to Tragedy Springs was very dark, and our campbeing in a dense forest of large trees, the darkness was intensified.Guards were at their posts around stock and camp, when suddenly, fromsome cause we never knew, the stock stampeded. This raised a greatexcitement, and before it subsided one of our cannon was discharged;as it belched forth its stream of fire, and the sound of the explosionechoed in forest and hills, the animals were stampeded still worse,only a few horses that had been securely tied remaining. We werecompelled to lay by for two days to get things together, but we finallydid so, recovering all our stock.

We made another start, going to a place we called Leek Springs, becauseof there being so many leeks growing wild. We had to stop over and markour way among rocky ridges. Thence we moved on, musket in one hand, orin a handy place to the teamster, with his goad or whip in the otherhand, the train moving in close order and constantly on the alert foran attack by man or beast.

We ascended a very high spur of the Sierra Nevada range, on the southside. When we reached the summit the wind blew as if it were the middleof November. As we crossed over we came to a large snowdrift; on thenorth side of the mountain our wagons rolled over the snow as ifon marble pavement, but when we came to where the sun had shone inthe latter part of the day, our wagons went down to the hub, and fourwere capsized and some of them badly broken. The others succeeded inreaching the bottom in safety. It took us till after dark to pick upthe pieces and get them together to be ready to start the next morning.

We all gathered around the campfire and discussed the subject ofstanding guard, when the writer remarked that there was no need ofguards—that he would agree to take care of all the Indians that wouldcome around that night, for it was so cold and disagreeable that hesupposed no human being would come there from choice. Just then someoneinquired what an object on a rock was. Some said it was an owl, othersthat it was an Indian. Two or three of us took our guns and salliedforth to settle the dispute finding to our surprise two Indians withfeathered headdresses on, and with long bows, and quivers full ofarrows. They were within easy bowshot of us. The party had the laugh onthe writer for once.

We took the Indians prisoners, disarmed them, and prepared a placefor them to sleep, after giving them their supper. The writer was onecalled on to guard them, and he promptly complied. The Indians madegood company, though they were very nervous, and we had to threatenthem frequently to keep them from making a break for liberty. Atmidnight the guards were changed, and at dawn we made ready to descendto the camp below, arriving there just as the Indians moved off; we hadreleased our prisoners. The Indians soon began to come in from everyquarter, all armed. We moved in close order, every man well armed.The savages numbered three to our one; they flanked us and we couldsee them on every hand, in threatening attitude. In this situationwe had to chop and roll logs out of the way, move rock, and makedugways, lifting at and holding wagons to keep them from turning over.Consequently, our progress was slow, and the journey very hazardous.Finally, when we had worked our way carefully along the difficultroute, passing over the summit of the great Sierras, which dividethe waters of the great deserts from those which flow to the PacificOcean, the threatening red men slunk out of sight, and we found a roughcamping place, where we lay all night upon our arms, but nothing cameto alarm us.

We continued down the canyon and came to a more open country, campingby a river bend where there was good feed, water, and fuel. We hadbegun to feel more safe from the red men, yet that night they stolein past our guards and took some of our saddle horses which were tiedwithin four or five rods of our wagons. The Indians escaped, and weredetected only by our guards hearing them cross the river; this wasabout 4 a.m. Early in the morning we learned more definitely our loss,and eight or ten of us gave pursuit, following the trail across a sandycountry and over the foothills, ultimately succeeding in the recoveryof all our horses but one, and for that we captured an Indian pony thathad the distemper, as we discovered after it had been turned into ourherd. That was one of the hardest day's rides that the writer remembersin all his experiences, for we put our horses through all they couldlive for. Every moment we were liable to ambush, for the Indiansdivided into three parties and we did the same. One of our partysupposed he had killed an Indian, or certainly wounded him, just as heentered into the thick brush.

It was late the next day when we resumed our journey, and that nightwe camped in Carson Valley, where we looked on an extensive plain ordesert. Being unable to discern any evidences of water, we turned tothe north, just under the base of the mountains, traveling over a veryhard route, until we came to the Truckee River, where we entered theold emigrant road. We followed that road till we came to the sink ofthe Humboldt, then called St. Mary's River. The distance was said to beforty-five miles; be that as it may, we were twenty-four hours coveringit, and I do not think we had any rest or sleep during the whole trip.

We passed the wonderful Hot or Steamboat Springs. I remember seeinga dog run up to one of them as if to lap the water, and as he did sohis feet slipped into the edge of the pool. He was so surprised at theheat that he gave one yelp of pain and jumped into the middle of thespring, stretched out his legs, and never gave another kick. In a veryshort time the hair was all scalded off him. The incident reminded meof the story of a Dutchman who, when he came to a hot spring, orderedhis teamster to drive on, as hell could not be more than a mile away.We did not feel to blame the Dutchman, if the springs were like this;for, from the surroundings, hades did not appear to be far off, and wepassed on without any desire to linger about the dreadful place. It wasabout 4 a.m. when, as we approached the Humboldt River, our horses andcattle hoisted their heads, began to sniff, and broke into a trot; fromthat they started into a run, and we had enough to do to keep up withthem till they reached the water.

We had a short rest, and resumed our journey, for there was no foodfor our stock, and the water was brackish, so we traveled eight or tenmiles and camped for the night. As the grazing was still short, we madea very early start, and were soon joined by two Indians, who remainedwith us all day and were very friendly. When we camped they stoppedwith us, and as we had been told the place was a dangerous one forIndians, the presence of these two caused a suspicion that they werespies, and probably would signal their fellows when to attack the train.

We had been in camp only a short time when a white horse was led in.The animal had a slight wound on his wethers and a mark of blood somesix inches down on his shoulder. This wound had been caused by thehorse rolling on some burned willow stumps, one of the men having seenhim roll; and there were on the animal the black marks from the charredwood. Yet some of the camp insisted that the wounds were from Indianarrow's. At this time some one came up from the river and caused aflame of excitement by saying he had seen an Indian skulking in thebrush, although he admitted that it might have been a bird or a wildanimal, for, while he saw something move, he was not in a position tosay just what it was. The discussion now waxed hot, and one man leveledhis gun at one of the Indians, declaring he would shoot him. The writerwas standing near by and caught the gun to prevent such an act, and wasin turn threatened with being shot, when the trouble was stopped byothers interfering.

That night, when the camp was called together as usual, for prayersand consultation, and prayers had been said, the same man who hadthreatened to shoot the Indian moved that we lay by the next day, huntdown all the Indians we could find, and by killing rid the country ofthe "d—d black rascals." This startling proposition seemed to stunthe senses of the men for a moment, for no such spirit had invaded thecamp before, our motto being peace on earth, good will to man. Theproposition was so repugnant to the writer's feelings that he made hismaiden speech in strongly opposing the motion, declaring that if sucha cruel step were taken he would be a swift witness against all whoengaged in the wicked and savage action; he also asserted that he wouldinform on them at the earliest opportunity, for as yet the Indians inthat vicinity had done us no harm, and it was as much murder to killone of them as to kill a white man. Others sided with the writer andthe matter was dropped.

We passed on up the river until we came to near the narrows or canyon.There some of our stock was wounded by Indian arrows. I do not recalljust how many were injured or died from their wounds. The Indians whodid the damage kept out of our sight.

I must mention Elder Addison Pratt, who joined us at Sutter's Fort, ashe was returning from a five years' mission to the Society Islands, inthe South Pacific Ocean. He was a great fisherman, and it was alongthis part of the route that he used to catch the little speckled troutin such numbers as to attract both our admiration and our gratitude.He would go where no one else would ever think of finding fish, andwould meet with wonderful success. In fact, some of the party were soastonished at his good luck that they declared he could catch fish in acow track. He was a good, jolly soul, and made the best of everything.

Our train journeyed on in peace till we came to Goose Creek, where thewriter traded a mare to an Indian, for a mule. The red man was givenseveral articles for the difference. He sauntered around for a littlewhile, then mounted the mule, and away he went, taking the articleswith him. The writer pursued alone for four or five miles, and firstthing he knew was too near the Indian camp to turn back, so he rushedin among them, dismounted, changed the mare for the mule, and rode off.The Indians looked surprised and frightened, and made no resistance. Inever realized the hazard I had taken till the danger was over; then Iwas glad to rejoin my fellow-travelers.

We crossed Goose Creek Mountains and again struck out into thetrackless desert, pioneering our own way, rolling the rocks and cuttingthe road. We reached the Malad, a very difficult stream to cross, butwe succeeded in getting over without serious damage. From there ourroute lay to the Bear River, which we crossed in safety by blocking upour wagon boxes. I think the crossing was made just above where BearRiver City is now located. From there we traveled southward under thebase of the mountains to where we found two springs, one of hot waterand the other of very cold water, within a very few feet of each other;they flowed in the same gulch or ravine. Along this route we had naughtbut an Indian trail to guide us. When we reached Box Elder we thoughtit the finest place we had seen since leaving Carson Valley.

While in California we had learned that the Latter-day Saints hadsettled near the south end of the Great Salt Lake; and as we hadbeen in sight, from the mountains, of the north end of the lake forsome days, we began to feel that we were nearing a place of rest. Wejourneyed on till we came to the Ogden and Weber rivers, where we foundthat Captain James Brown, of company C of the Mormon Battalion, and afew of the Saints had settled; the country looked very wild. We stillpursued our way southward, till we reached the present site of SaltLake City, entering the Sixth Ward Square—now Pioneer Square—wherethe Saints had built houses and a stockade. I think the date of ourarrival at this place was the 28th of September, 1848.

We were heartily welcomed, by relatives and friends, after our long andtedious march of near four thousand miles, and our more than two years'absence from those we loved and who loved us. Our meeting and greetingwere far more joyous and precious than the glittering gold we had leftbehind. Neither our friends nor ourselves had any regrets for ourhaving left the gold fields when we remembered our marching away, overtwo years before, to the tune of "The Girl I Left Behind Me," for wewere so very glad to find her again, no matter if it were in a desert.We all rejoiced, and gave thanks to God for His protecting care and oursafe return to the bosom of friends.

CHAPTER XVI.

CONTENTMENT AMONG THE SAINTS IN GREAT SALT LAKE VALLEY—RUDE DWELLINGSAND SHORT RATIONS—TRYING EXPERIENCES—RESCUE OF MORMON BATTALIONMEMBERS FROM STARVATION—CARRY NEWS OF THE CALIFORNIA GOLD DISCOVERYTO THE EAST—RE-UNION OF MORMON BATTALION MEMBERS—ADDRESSES BY THEFIRST PRESIDENCY AND OTHERS—SETTLING A NEW COUNTRY—ORGANIZATION OFMINUTE MEN—COLD WINTER—THE GOLD FEVER—TENOR OF THE PREACHINGS ANDPROPHESYINGS OF THOSE TIMES—INSTRUCTING THE PEOPLE IN INDUSTRIALPURSUITS—POLICY TOWARD THE INDIANS.

NOTWITHSTANDING the fact of the aspect in the Great Salt Lake Valleybeing gloomy, most of the people were contented with their lot,although the experiences of 1847 and 1848 had been anything butencouraging. Some of the inhabitants were living in log cabins, othersin dugouts, and still others in wagons, while some who did not havethe latter had built brush sheds; almost everybody was living on shortrations, crickets and grasshoppers having destroyed most of the crops.The whole face of the country was brown and dry, except small streaksalong the water courses. There was no provender for our stock, and wecould only turn them out upon the range, and trust them and ourselvesto a kind Providence. Timber for fuel was in the mountains, and higherup in these there was timber for fencing and building purposes. Inorder to get either, we had to make roads at great expense, buildingbridges and cutting dugways, sometimes going in armed companies toprotect ourselves from the threatening Indian tribes. A long brushbowery was built in the town; we met there for religious services, andfor all other purposes that made it necessary for the people to becalled together.

October 6, 1848, a general conference of the Church was held, and thepeople as a rule felt blessed, although there were a few who were verymuch discouraged as the rations grew short and the cold weather pinchedmore closely.

Some time in October, news reached us that a small detachment of theMormon Battalion coming from California was starving to death on thewestern deserts. Their old comrades in arms soon gathered supplies andfitted up a team, and six or seven of us went out to give assistance.We met the suffering company at the point of the West Mountains, abouttwo days earlier than we had expected. The men were suffering, but notquite so badly as we had been led to believe from the word we had got.It was snowing when we met them, and continued to do so the greaterpart of the night and of the next day, so that we suffered much fromcold before we reached shelter, for everything was soaked through. Thecompany brought considerable gold, which was exhibited to many of thepeople.

Some of our comrades were not so fortunate as to find their families inthe Great Salt Lake Valley, so they pushed on to where these had beenleft, in Iowa or Nebraska. Those men bore the news of the great golddiscovery in California, and, as evidence of the truth of their story,showed the precious metal they had secured. Thus the Mormon Battalionnot only was at the discovery of gold in California and took parttherein, but bore the news thereof eastward, until it spread to theworld, causing great excitement.

The last detachment of the battalion for the season having arrived inthe valley, a feast was prepared, and a re-union of the soldiers andtheir friends was called. It was made as grand an affair as could beunder the circumstances, Presidents Brigham Young and Heber C. Kimballleading out with liberal hands. We were welcomed in royal style;interesting speeches were made by the First Presidency of the Church,and also by the officers and soldiers of the battalion.

From that time things moved quietly, people making roads and gettingout timber for various purposes, herding stock, fencing, and so on.At length the Indians began to run off and kill the stock. A meetingwas called and one hundred men selected to enroll themselves as minutemen, the writer being one of the company. We were required each tokeep a horse on hand, and to be ready at a minute's warning to marchto any point of attack. We had to fit out ourselves, as there was noquartermaster's department on which officers could issue requisitionsand have them honored. We had to provide our own provisions, andeverything necessary for a campaign, at our own expense. Most of theyoung men having horses of their own, and many of them having becomeexpert horsemen, a full quota was furnished for the company. We hadturned over to the Church authorities, for the public defense, ourtwo brass Russian cannon. The minute men met for drill at regularlyappointed times.

The winter of 1848-9 was quite cold. Many people had their feet badlyfrozen. For one, the writer suffered so severely from this cause thathe lost every nail from the toes of both feet. In February and Marchthere began to be some uneasiness over the prospects, and as the daysgrew warmer the gold fever attacked many so that they prepared to goto California. Some said they would go only to have a place for therest of us; for they thought Brigham Young too smart a man to try toestablish a civilized colony in such a "God-forsaken country," as theycalled the valley. They further said that California was the naturalcountry for the Saints; some had brought choice fruit pips and seed,but said they would not waste them by planting in a country like theGreat Salt Lake Valley; others stated that they would not build ahouse in the valley, but would remain in their wagons, for certainlyour leaders knew better than to attempt to make a stand in such a dry,worthless locality, and would be going on to California, Oregon orVancouver's Island; still others said they would wait awhile beforeplanting choice fruits, as it would not be long before they wouldreturn to Jackson County, Missouri.

This discouraging talk was not alone by persons who had no experiencein farming and manufacturing, but by men who had made a success attheir various avocations where they had been permitted to work inpeace, before coming west. Good farmers said: "Why the wheat we grewhere last year was so short that we had to pull it; the heads werenot more than two inches long. Frost falls here every month in theyear—enough to cut down all tender vegetation. More, James Bridgerand Gudger, who have been in this country ten years or more, say thatcorn cannot be raised anywhere in these mountains. In fact, Bridger hastold President Young that he will give a thousand dollars for the firstbushel of corn raised in the open air here, for he says it cannot bedone."

It was at this time of gloom that President Young stood before thewhole people, and said, in substance, that some people had misgivings,and some were murmuring, and had not faith to go to work and make theirfamilies comfortable; they had got the gold fever and were going toCalifornia. Said he: "Some have asked me about going. I have told themthat God has appointed this place for the gathering of His Saints,and you will do better right here than you will by going to the goldmines. Some have thought they would go there and get fitted out andcome back, but I told them to stop here and get fitted out. Those whostop here and are faithful to God and His people will make more moneyand get richer than you that run after the god of this world; and Ipromise you in the name of the Lord that many of you that go, thinkingyou will get rich and come back, will wish you had never gone away fromhere, and will long to come back but will not be able to do so. Someof you will come back, but your friends who remain here will have tohelp you; and the rest of you who are spared to return will not makeas much money as your brethren do who stay here and help build up theChurch and kingdom of God; they will prosper and be able to buy youtwice over. Here is the place God has appointed for His people. We havebeen kicked out of the frying-pan into the fire, out of the fire intothe middle of the floor, and here we are and here we will stay. God hasshown me that this is the spot to locate His people, and here is wherethey will prosper; He will temper the elements for the good of HisSaints; He will rebuke the frost and the sterility of the soil, and theland shall become fruitful. Brethren, go to, now, and plant out yourfruit seeds." Stretching his arms to the east and to the west, with hishands spread out, he said: "For in these elements are not only all thecereals common to this latitude, but the apple, peach and plum; yea,and the more delicate fruits, the strawberry and raspberry; and we willraise the grape here and manufacture wine; and as the Saints gatherhere and get strong enough to possess the land, God will temper theclimate, and we shall build a city and a temple to the Most High Godin this place. We will extend our settlements to the east and west, tothe north and to the south, and we will build towns and cities by thehundreds, and thousands of the Saints will gather in from the nationsof the earth. This will become the great highway of the nations. Kingsand emperors and the noble and wise of the earth will visit us here,while the wicked and ungodly will envy us our comfortable homes andpossessions. Take courage, brethren. I can stand in my door and can seewhere there is untold millions of the rich treasures of the earth—goldand silver. But the time has not come for the Saints to dig gold. It isour duty first to develop the agricultural resources of this country,for there is no country on the earth that is more productive than this.We have the finest climate, the best water, and the purest air that canbe found on the earth; there is no healthier climate anywhere. As forgold and silver, and the rich minerals of the earth, there is no othercountry that equals this; but let them alone; let others seek them,and we will cultivate the soil; for if the mines are opened first, weare a thousand miles from any base of supplies, and the people wouldrush in here in such great numbers that they would breed a famine;and gold would not do us or them any good if there were no provisionsin the land. People would starve to death with barrels of gold; theywould be willing to give a barrel of gold for a barrel of flour ratherthan starve to death. Then, brethren, plow your land and sow wheat,plant your potatoes; let the mines alone until the time comes for youto hunt gold, though I do not think this people ever will become amining people. It is our duty to preach the Gospel, gather Israel, payour tithing, and build temples. The worst fear that I have about thispeople is that they will get rich in this country, forget God and Hispeople, wax fat, and kick themselves out of the Church and go to hell.This people will stand mobbing, robbing, poverty, and all manner ofpersecution, and be true. But my greater fear for them is that theycannot stand wealth; and yet they have to be tried with riches, forthey will become the richest people on this earth."

My dear reader, the writer stood on the Sixth Ward Square, Salt LakeCity, in the year 1849, fifty-one years ago, and heard the foregoingspoken by President Brigham Young. Now it is 1900. and I bear mytestimony to the literal fulfillment of most of those sayings, and thatportion which has not yet come to pass I most assuredly believe will doso. I entreat the reader of this to pause and reflect. Was there divineinspiration in this matter, or not?

About the same time, Parley P. Pratt, one of the Twelve Apostles, toldthe people to save the hides of their cattle, tan them, and make bootsand shoes for their families. He said that in the mountains there wasspruce, pine bark, and shumac, with tanning properties; advised thatthey be gathered, and the beef hides tanned; and predicted that thetime would come when leather would be tanned here, and boots and shoeswould be manufactured and exported. It was also stated that we wouldraise sheep here, and would manufacture woollen fabrics and export them.

As the writer walked away from meeting that day, in company with someold and tried men, who had been mobbed and robbed, and driven fromtheir homes, and whom he looked upon almost as pillars of the Church,one of them said he had passed through such and such trials in thepast, but that that day, 1849, was the darkest he ever had seen in theChurch. The thought of trying to settle this barren land, he said, wasone of the greatest trials he had met. There were some three of theparty particularly whom the writer thought were staunch men; one ofthese asked another what he thought of the preaching that day, and gotthe reply that it would do "to preach to d—d fools, but not to men ofsense"—that it was insulting to a man's better senses, it was absurdto think that it was possible to manufacture anything for export froma country like this, where we were more likely to starve to death thanto do anything else. Now, after half a century has passed away, thewriter refers to the manufacturing and mercantile establishments inthese mountain valleys to establish which were the divinely inspiredutterances of that day.

On one occasion in 1849, President Heber C. Kimball, when preaching tothe people, exhorted them to be faithful as Saints, to cultivate theearth, and let others dig the gold. He said it was not for the Saintsto dig it, but the time would come when they would learn to use it,and not abuse it, or the power that it gives; they would possess it bymillions, and the time would come when people would be willing to givea bushel of gold for a bushel of wheat, when judgments and calamitieswould be poured out on the nations of the earth. He declared thatpeople would come here by thousands, yea, tens of thousands would yetflee to Zion for safety; they would come with their burdens on theirbacks, having nothing to eat, and the people here would have to feedthem; others would bring their gold and silver, and envy the peoplehere their peace and comfort, for God would temper the climate sothat the Saints would be able to raise everything they needed. ElderKimball further said: "Brethren, build good, large granaries, fillthem with wheat, and keep it against the time when it will be needed.Some people think we have passed the day of trial, but let me tell youthat you need not fear that, for if you are faithful you shall haveall the trials you can bear, and if you are not faithful you will havemore, and will apostatize and go to hell. Some people have come fromthe eastern states and the old country and said: "Brother Kimball, Othat we could have been with you in Kirtland, in Jackson county, andin Nauvoo, and shared the trials of the Saints with you!" Brethren,hold on a little while, and you shall have all the trials you willbe able to stand; for God has said that He will have a tried people,so you may prepare yourselves; for before the roof is on the templethat we will build here, the devils will begin to howl, and beforethe capstone is laid you will begin to have your trials. Your leaderswill be hunted as wild beasts; we shall not be with you, and men willbe left to themselves for awhile. Then is the time that you should befilled with light, that you may be able to stand through the days oftrial. Now, you can leave your bench-tools on the workbench, and yourplows and farming tools in the field; and can lie down and go to sleepwithout locking or bolting your doors; but the time will come when,if you do this, your tools will be stolen from you. These mountainswill be filled with robbers, highwaymen, and all kinds of thieves andmurderers, for the spirit of the old Gadianton robbers lurks here inthe mountains, and will take possession of men, and you will have towatch as well as pray, to keep thieves away. Therefore, brethren,begin now to take better care of your tools; attach locks and boltsto your doors, and do not wait until the horse is stolen before youlock the door." Elder Kimball referred to the fact that the young menwere becoming restless and did not know what to do; they ran hitherand thither to the mines, and became rude and uncultivated. Said he:"Let me tell you, boys, what to do. Marry the girls and build homes foryourselves. Do not leave the young ladies to take up with strangerswho will marry them and then desert them. If you do not marry them,I counsel the middle-aged and old men to marry the girls and treatthem well, and let them have the opportunity to obey the first commandof God to man, to multiply and replenish the earth. Brethren, taketo yourselves more wives; for if you do not, the time will come whenyou will not be permitted to do so. Seek wisdom by faith and prayer;study and read all good books; study the arts and sciences; build goodschoolhouses, and educate your children, that they may be able toperform the great work that will come upon them."

Some of the most practical and best informed men in the communitywere called to deliver free lectures on farming, stockraising, etc.,for many of the people had come from manufacturing centers and hadno experience in agricultural life, consequently these people neededinstruction, and it was given in every industrial pursuit that waspracticable at the time, and that by experienced men. Thus the peoplewere incited in their labors to subdue this wild and then desertland—for it was barren and waste in the extreme.

President Brigham Young also instructed the people to treat the Indianskindly, and divide food with them, "for," said he, "it is cheaper tofeed than to fight them. Teach them that we are their friends. Indeed,treat every man civilly and kindly; treat every man as a gentlemanuntil you prove him to be a rascal—then let him alone."

The foregoing is the tenor of the teaching and preaching to the peoplein 1848 and 1849, in what is now the State of Utah.

CHAPTER XVII.

SCARCITY OF FOOD IN THE GREAT SALT LAKE VALLEY—WILD VEGETABLES FORGREENS—FAIR PROSPECTS FOR CROPS—CLOUDS OF CRICKETS LAY BARE THEFIELDS—PEOPLE STRUGGLE AGAINST THE PEST ALMOST TO DESPAIR—VASTFLOCKS OF SEA GULLS, AS THE CLOUDS OF HEAVEN, COME TO THERESCUE—DESTRUCTION OF THE CRICKET—PEOPLE PRAISE THE LORD—THEWRITER INVITED TO A MEETING, ORDAINED A SEVENTY, AND CALLED WITHOTHERS TO GO ON A MISSION TO THE SOCIETY ISLANDS—WORDS OF PRESIDENTSBRIGHAM YOUNG AND HEBER C. KIMBALL—PREPARATIONS TO TRAVEL TOCALIFORNIA WITH AN EMIGRANT COMPANY—DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE BYCAPTAIN JEFFERSON HUNT—START ON MY MISSION—PROPHECY BY PRESIDENTWLLLARD RICHARDS—BATTLE WITH INDIANS AT PROVO AVERTED BY APOSTLE C.C. RICH—PROSPECTS OF UTAH VALLEY TO SUPPORT POPULATION—OVERTAKETHE EMIGRANT COMPANY—DISCUSSIONS AT BEAVER RIVER—COMPANY STARTS FORWALKER'S PASS—TURNED BACK BY SCARCITY OF WATER—EXPERIENCE ON THEDESERT—DISSENSIONS IN THE COMPANY—FUTILE ATTEMPT TO SEND SOME OFTHE MEMBERS BACK—APOSTLE C. C. RICH FORESEES FURTHER TROUBLE, ANDENDEAVORS TO SAVE THE MORMON PART OF THE TRAIN BY ADVISING THEM TORETURN TO THE OLD SPANISH TRAIL—METHODIST AND CAMPBELLTTE MINISTERSINCITE THE COMPANY AGAINST THE MORMON GUIDE, CAPTAIN HUNT—MAIN COMPANYDISREGARDS CAPTAIN HUNT'S WARNING OF DANGER, AND LEAVES THE OLD SPANISHTRAIL TO SEARCH FOR THE ROUTE THROUGH WALKER'S PAST—MORMONS GO WITHCAPTAIN HUNT ON THE SOUTHERN ROUTE.

WHEN seed time came that year, provisions were very scarce. People dugsegos and thistle roots, and gathered cow cabbage, as we called a plantthat was found in the canyons. We ate these as greens, cooked the hidesof beef cattle—in fact, gathered everything eatable, and worked hardand put in our crops. These started out with fair prospects for harvestuntil the grain was from one to six inches high. Then there came downfrom the mountains myriads of black crickets, their bodies nearly aslarge as a man's thumb. They entered upon wheat and corn fields, andswept or ate every green thing before them. Field after field wascleared of vegetation. Whole families with their chickens moved out totheir farms and made war upon the crickets. Men, women and childrenfought from morning till night, and still the enemy advanced from fieldto field. Men almost despaired, women wept, and to all human appearanceour cause was lost. The crickets ate the crops so close into the groundthat they could not start again. The people held fast meetings andprayed for protection. I am not positive that there were any specialmeetings for that purpose, but it was customary to fast and pray thefirst Thursday in each month.

Almost everybody was in despair, and the enemy did not seem to bediminished in numbers. With their war cry, or ce-ce, the cricketsadvanced, and, seeming to call up their reserve forces, with a boldfront kept up their march. Then there came from the west and northwestwhat seemed to me might be justly called the clouds of heaven, orperhaps more properly the clouds of salvation. These were white seagulls, which flew so close together and were so numerous as to forma cloud wherever they went. They covered almost the whole farmingdistrict north and southeast of the city—the main farming districtin Salt Lake Valley at that time; they visited Davis County and otherplaces as well; and when they lit down the fields looked as thoughcovered with snow. The gulls came at sunrise and returned to the westat sundown, after having gorged and disgorged themselves the entireday, being tame as chickens. They kept up the work of deliverance dayafter day, as the crickets continued to come down from the mountains.I believe that was the first time this kind of birds had been seen byany of the settlers. When they had completed their work of mercy theywent away, leaving a grateful people who returned thanks to the Giverof every good gift. The Saints in the valley then were united and theirmeetings were well attended.

One Sunday, Brother Jedediah M. Grant came down from the stand, tookthe writer by the arm, and asked him to take a walk. The request wasgranted readily, and I was led to Brother Lorenzo Young's house on CityCreek, where we found the First Presidency, some members of the TwelveApostles, and some of the first council of the Seventies. There thewriter was ordained to the Priesthood of a Seventy, and his name wasenrolled in the third quorum. Shortly after that he was invited withothers to attend a council meeting of the First Presidency and TwelveApostles, in President Kimball's schoolhouse. When we got in and wereseated, President Young said, "Brethren, if any of you have anything tosay, say on." There being no response, the president rose to his feetand said, "I move that Elders Addison Pratt, Hyrum Blackwell and JamesS. Brown take a mission to the Society Islands, in the South PacificOcean." President H. C. Kimball said, "I second the motion." Thequestion was put and unanimously sustained, and the president turned tome and asked, "Brother James, will you go?" The answer was, "I am anilliterate youth, cannot read or write, and I do not know what good Ican do; but if it is the will of the Lord that I should go, and you sayso, I will do the best that I can." The president then took a seat nearme, placing his right hand on my left knee, and said, "It is the willof the Lord that you go, and I say go; I am not afraid to risk you. AndI promise you in the name of the Lord God of Israel that if you go youwill be blessed, and do good, and be an honor to yourself and to theChurch and kingdom of God. Although men will seek your life, you shallbe spared and return to the bosom of the Church in safety."

This council was on Sunday evening, some time in September, 1849, andwe were to start no later than the 10th of October; indeed, we wereinstructed to get ready as soon as possible, so that we could join acompany of emigrants which was organizing to go through to Californiaby the southern route, as it was too late to go by the northern route.

As Elder Addison Pratt and I had agreed to go sowing wheat together onMonday morning, I thought I could speak to him without any notice beingtaken of it. I said to him, in a low tone of voice, that I guessed wewould not sow much wheat next day. President H. C. Kimball jumped fromhis seat as quick as a flash, and pointing his finger directly at me,said, "What is that, Brother Jimmie?" When I told him what I had said,he continued, "Jimmie, it is not for you to sow wheat or to reap it,but your calling is to sow the good seed of the Gospel, and gatherIsrael from this time henceforth. Mind that, now; let others sow thewheat." From that time I felt a weight of responsibility that I hadnever thought of before.

We then went to preparing for our journey, Apostle C. C. Rich had beencalled to go through to California, so he and Brother Pratt and Ifitted up a team, I having a good wagon and one yoke of oxen; they eachfurnished a yoke of oxen. In a few days we were ready for the start. Wehad a rodometer attached to our wagon, to measure the distance.

In the meantime, the emigrants called a meeting before taking theirdeparture. They had employed Captain Jefferson Hunt of company A,Mormon Battalion fame, to be their guide, as he had come through thatroute with pack animals. He was invited to tell them what they mightexpect. He described the route to them with the roughest side out, lestthey might say that he had misled them by making things more favorablethan they really were. In concluding his remarks he said: "From SaltSprings, we cross to a sandy desert, distance seventy-five miles toBitter Springs, the water so bitter the devil would not drink it; andfrom thence away hellwards, to California or some other place. Now,gentlemen, if you will stick together and follow me, I will lead youthrough to California all right; but you will have to make your ownroad, for there is none save the old Spanish trail from Santa Fe toCalifornia, by the Cajon Pass through the Sierra Nevada Mountains."

The emigrant company consisted of about five hundred souls, and onehundred wagons and teams, the latter in poor condition. Feeling in highspirits, the company moved out between the 1st and 8th of October. C.C. Rich, Francis Pomeroy and I remained to follow up on horseback, inthree or four days. Pratt and Blackwell, taking our team, started withthe main body. They got to the Cottonwoods, when one of my oxen becameso lame that they could not proceed any farther. Blackwell returned toinform me of the situation, and I went down and traded with John Brown,late Bishop of Pleasant Grove, for another ox, mine having been prickedin shoeing. Then they overtook the main company, and all proceededtogether.

On the 8th we followed. I started out alone, to meet with the othersat Cottonwood. As I passed the home of Dr. Willard Richards, counselorto President Brigham Young, Dr. Richards came out and met me; he tookme by the right knee with his right hand, as I sat on my horse, andsaid, "Starting out on your mission, I suppose?" I replied, "Yes, sir.""Well, Brother James, I am glad, and sorry; glad to have you go andpreach the Gospel, and sorry to part with good young men that we needin opening up a new country." At that he gave my knee an extra grip.Stretching his left hand out to the southwest, his chin quivering andhis eyes filling with tears, he said, "Brother James, when you areupon yonder distant islands, called to preside over a branch of theChurch of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, men will seek your life,and to all human appearance, there will be no possible escape; thenlook unto God, and His angels shall draw near unto you, and you shallbe delivered, to return home to this people. Do not stop to write toBrother Pratt, your president, to Brother Brigham, or to me, for youwill require the immediate protection of God. Then put your trustin Him, and He will deliver you; for I promise you in the name ofIsrael's God that you shall be delivered from your enemy and returnto this people. Goodbye, and God bless you." Need I tell the readerthat my mind was greatly impressed by those prophetic words, theirinspired character being established so vividly in my later experience?Prophetic I knew them to be, and impressive they were indeed; and theimpression has been deep and lasting.

I then went on to Brother Jacob M. Truman's, on Big Cottonwood Creek,and stayed with him that night. Next morning I passed on to BrotherWilliam Bills', where I met with Brothers C. C. Rich and F. Pomeroy,and we proceeded on to Provo by the Indian trail, having been joined byAlexander Williams, with whom we stayed.

At Provo we learned that the citizens and Indians had had some trouble,and there was considerable excitement, as there were but few settlersat that place and the Indians were quite numerous. The latter weresinging war songs and working up a spirit of war preliminary to makingan attack that night or next morning, as was supposed. The peoplewere preparing to receive them as best they could. Guards were postedaround the camp, and men put on picket duty, so that any enemy might bediscovered readily.

The Indians made no move until after daylight; but just before sunrisethey started from their camps in force, to attack us. We advanced tomeet them, so as to prevent their assailing us in the small fort,where the women and children were. The savages marched up as if togive us open battle. We formed across the road, and each man took hispost ready for action. I always have believed that if it had not beenfor the presence of Apostle C. C. Rich, and his cool, conciliatoryaction, there would have been bloodshed, for there were some veryhot-headed white men, who would have preferred war to peace. ThroughBrother Rich's influence, the cause of the trouble was looked into, aconciliation effected, and war averted, so that after breakfast we ofthe missionary party proceeded on to what was called Hobble Creek—nowthe city of Springville, with a population of over two thousand souls.I remember that we thought the place would be capable of sustainingeight or ten families, or a dairy, believing there was not enough waterfor more.

From Hobble Creek we passed on from one small stream to another,expressing our opinion as to the capacity of the water supply; and inno instance did we suppose that there was water sufficient for morethan fifteen families, judging from what we could see then. Again,the barrenness of the country was such that it did not seem that morethan seventy-five or a hundred head of cattle could find feed withinreach of water. Now thousands of head of horned stock and horses aresustained at the same places.

We kept on our way until we overtook the wagon train on Sevier River.We came up with the emigrants just as they were ready to move on, butdid not find them so full of glee as they were on the start from thecity. Still, we rolled on very peaceably until we came to Beaver River,where the country began to look more forbidding. Then the ardor of theemigrants began to weaken.

At this place the company was joined by a man named Smith with a packtrain of about seventeen men; also James Flake, with thirty Latter-daySaints; besides, there were William Farrer, John Dixon. H. W. Bigler,George Q. Cannon, and others, whose names I do not now recall. Smithfelt confident that he could find Walker's Pass, in the Sierra NevadaMountains. This supposed pass had been spoken of often, but men hadbeen disappointed as often in finding it, or rather in not findingit. Smith's story excited our whole camp so that there was a generaldesire to try the new route, and go down through the canyon and out onto the sandy desert. The whole company except a very few favored theidea of leaving the route they had hired a guide for, and they urgedCaptain Hunt to strike out and look for water. He said, "Gentlemen, Iagreed to pilot you through to California on the Old Spanish Route bythe Cajon Pass. I am ready to do so, and am not under any obligationsto lead you in any other way; and if you insist on my doing so you mustbe responsible, for I will not be responsible for anything. On thiscondition, if you insist on changing your route, I will do the best Ican to find water, but I do not have any reason to hope for successwhen I leave the trail."

The company hurrahed for the Walker Pass, and Captain Hunt struck out aday ahead while the company shod and doctored their lame and sick stockfor one day. Then we moved out ten miles on to the plain southwest ofwhere Minersville, Utah, now stands, and camped.

Sometime in the night Captain Hunt came into camp, so near choked fromthe lack of water that his tongue was swollen till it protruded fromhis mouth; his eyes were so sunken in his head that he could scarcelybe recognized. His horse, too, for the need of water, was blind, andstaggered as he was urged on. Their stay had been thirty-six hours,on the sands, without water. About 2 o'clock next morning our stockstampeded from the guards and ran back to water. Two-thirds of the menwent in pursuit, and animals and men did not return to camp till 2o'clock in the afternoon.

By this time confusion and discontent abounded in camp. A committee wasappointed to inquire into the condition of every team, and to ascertainthe food supply, with the avowed intention of sending all back whofailed to have what were considered the requisites for the journey. Ithink that one-third of the company, our wagon included, were foundwanting when weighed in that committee's balances. But when we wereordered to return, those who gave the command found that they werewithout authority and no one would heed them. So the discontent waspatched up for a time, and we proceeded on to Little Salt Lake Valley,where we struck the old Spanish trail again. Then the company began tosplit up, some going on after night, and others stopping.

Brother C. C. Rich told me that it had been shown to him that there wasgoing to be trouble, and he felt led to believe that if we would gowith the pack train he could at least lead the brethren there back onto the trail and save them. This was in the night, as we slept togetherin the wagon. He awoke and asked me if I were awake. Finding that Iwas, he told me what would befall the company. To save the brethrenand all who would heed him, he purchased some ponies and went with thepackers.

As we passed along the Spanish trail—said to be three hundred andfifty years old—on the great desert, we could follow the route bythe bones of dead animals in many places. It is said that many fiercebattles have been fought between Mexicans and Indians along this trail.So far as we were concerned, although it was known that the Indianswere very hostile, they gave us no trouble.

When we reached what is called the Rim of the Basin, where the watersdivide, part running into the Colorado River and on to the PacificOcean, and part into the Salt Lake Valley, the company called meetings,and several made speeches, saying there must be a nearer and betterroute than that on which the Mormon guide was leading them. OneMethodist and one Campbellite preacher in the company said that theyhad started to California, and not hellwards, as the Mormon guide hadstated at the outset, quoting what Captain Hunt had said just beforestarting. Others claimed that they had been on the mountains, and uponlooking west had seen something green, which they asserted was anindication of water. Some of them celebrated the proposed separationfrom us by boring holes in trees then filling these with powder andfiring them, exploded the trees in symbol of the break-up of thecompany.

Next morning all but seven wagons turned off to the right,toward the supposed Walker's Pass. We preferred to follow the guide.The company was thoroughly warned by Captain Hunt of the danger ofdying from lack of water. In our party there were eleven men, two womenand three children. The main company expressed pity for us and triedto persuade us to go with them, but we felt confident that our coursewas the safest, notwithstanding their superior numbers. They seemed torejoice at their conclusion, while we regretted it for their sakes.Thus we separated, the emigrant company heading for Walker's Pass, andour small party continuing on the old Spanish trail, or southern routeto California.

CHAPTER XVIII.

CAUGHT IN A SNOWSTORM—VIA THE SANTA CLARA AND RIO VIRGEN TOTHE MUDDY—NEWS OF SAD DISASTER TO THE EMIGRANT COMPANY—MAKINGCHARCOAL AND NAILS—AN APOSTLE AS A BLACKSMITH—SEARCHING FOR WATERON THE DESERT—CROSSING AN ALKALI STREAM—DISCOVER GOLD NEAR SALTSPRINGS—HURRYING ON OVER THE DESERT—CATTLE POISONED AT BITTERSPRINGS—KILLING ANIMALS TO RELIEVE THEIR SUFFERINGS—FIRST WAGONOVER CAJON PASS, GOING WEST—SEVERE JOURNEY TO THE SUMMIT OF THEPASS—ALL GET OVER SAFELY—SENSE OF GREAT RELIEF—GRASS AND WATER INABUNDANCE—OVERTAKEN BY SURVIVORS OF THE EMIGRANT COMPANY—THEIRSTORY OF TERRIBLE SUFFERING—DIVIDE PROVISIONS WITH THEM—CELEBRATINGCHRISTMAS, 1849—CONTINUING THE JOURNEY NORTH—SPANISH WARNING IN ACEMETERY TO INDIANS—CRUELTY OF THE SPANIARDS TO THE INDIANS—THEWRITER PLACED IN CHARGE OF THE COMPANY—DIRECTED TO GO TO THE GOLDMINES.

WHEN the company had separated the weather was very threatening, and itsoon began to snow very fast. We pulled on until late in the afternoon,and camped on the mountain. Next day we came to some Indian farmswhere the savages had raised corn, wheat and squash. We passed on tothe Santa Clara, followed it down for three or four days, and founda written notice to those who came that way: "Look out, for we havekilled two Indians here." With this warning, we felt that we must keepa vigilant guard all the time. From the Santa Clara we had a very longdrive across the mountain and down a long, dry, rocky slope until wecame to the Rio Virgen. We went along that stream three or four days;where we left it we found a cow with an Indian arrow sticking in her.We next passed over a high plateau to a stream well named the Muddy.There we laid by and doctored and shod our lame cattle.

While we were on the Muddy, Brother C. C. Rich and party came downthe stream to us, bringing sad and heartrending news from the greatemigrant company, which had broken into factions and become perfectlydemoralized and confused. Some had taken packs on their backs andstarted on foot, their cattle dying, their wagons abandoned. All weredespondent, and unwilling to listen to anybody. I think, from thebest information we ever got of them, I would be safe in saying thatfour-fifths of them met a most horrible fate, being starved or chokedto death in or near what was afterwards called Death Valley. In afteryears the miners of Pahranagat found the irons of the wagons very handyfor use in their pursuits.

On the Muddy we burned charcoal and made nails to shoe our cattle,having to throw the animals down and hold them while Apostle C. C. Richshod them. Brother Rich did his work well, for the shoes never cameloose till they wore off.

From the Muddy I accompanied Captain Hunt and Henry Rollins twelvemiles and found some small pools of water about two miles to the rightof the trail; I went back to turn the packers to it, while CaptainHunt and Henry Rollins went ahead in search of more pools of water andfound some. George Q. Cannon and I stayed there as guides for the wagontrain, and turned them off to the water. When the train arrived, about11 o'clock p.m., we had to dip water with cups and water the stock frombuckets. Then we pressed on till daylight, made a halt long enough totake breakfast, and pushed on, for there was no feed for our stock.

About 2 p.m. we came to the Los Vegas, where we rested a day, thencontinued our journey over mountains and across dry deserts from dayto day until we reached a stream of water about three rods wide. Itwas so strong with alkali that we dared not allow our cattle to drinkof it, but put the lash to them so that they could not get a sup as wecrossed it twice. Thence we traveled across a very sandy desert fortwelve miles to the Salt Springs, where the train went around a pointof the mountain. A. Pratt and I, with three or four others, followedon a small trail that passed over a notch of the mountain. While goingthrough a narrow pass, Brother A. Pratt said it looked as if theremight be gold there. At that we went to looking in the crevices ofthe rock, and in a few minutes one of the party found a small scale,and then another. Among the rest, I saw the precious metal projectingfrom a streak of quartz in the granite rock. From there we went overabout one and a half miles to the Salt Springs, and met with the teams.Several of the party journeyed back to look further for the gold. Itook along a cold chisel and hammer, and chipped out some at the placeI had found, but as our teams were weakening very fast and there wasneither food nor water at that place to sustain our stock, we had topush on across the sandy desert of seventy-five miles, day and night,until we came to the Bitter Springs.

These were the springs that Captain Hunt had told the emigrant companyabout before they left Salt Lake City, that from thence it was "awayhellward to California or some other place." It certainly began tolook that way now, when our cattle began to weaken and die all alongthe trail. The springs would have been as properly named if they hadbeen called Poison Springs, instead of Bitter, for it seemed that fromthat place our cattle began to weaken every moment, and many had tobe turned loose from the yoke and then shot to get them out of theirmisery.

We had to shoot one of Brother Pratt's oxen to end its suffering. Thisact fell to my lot. Oh, how inhuman and cruel it seemed to me, to drivethe patient and faithful dumb animal into a barren desert, where thereis neither food nor drink, to goad him on until he falls from sheerexhaustion, so that he bears any punishment, to make him rise, that hismaster sees fit to inflict, without giving a single moan, then to walkaround and calmly look him in the face and fire the deadly missile intohis brain, then leave his carcass to the loathsome wolves and birds ofprey!

In looking back over a period of fifty years since then, the writercannot call to memory a single act in his life that seemed so crueland ungrateful as that; and still there was no earthly means to savethe poor creature from a more horrible death, which would have come ifhe had been left in that driving snowstorm, when his whole frame shookwith cold, there to lie and starve—one of the most miserable deathsthat the human mind can conceive of. Of the two evils we chose theleast by ending the suffering in a moment, when it would have takenhours if it had not been for this act of mercy, as we call it aftertaking in the whole situation.

From Bitter Springs our team took the lead to the end of the journey,or to Williams' Ranch, being the first team that ever crossed overthe Cajon Pass going west, as I remember. Ascending to the first passfrom the Bitter Springs our situation was most gloomy. In mud andsnow, with darkness come on, every rod of the road became more steepand difficult. The summit was two miles ahead and the nearest teamhalf a mile back. We moved by hitches and starts, and could only makethree or four rods at a time. Two of us pushed at the wagon while theother drove. Our guide was a few feet ahead, marking out the road, andsaying, "Crowd up, boys, if possible. Let us wallow on over the summit,for it is our only salvation to cross and try to open the road ifpossible for the weaker teams."

Finally, with a shout of triumph, we reached the summit in two feet ofsnow, at 11 o'clock at night. Our guide told us to go on down and buildfires at the first place where we could find anything for our stock,and he would go back and cheer the rest on as best he could.

The descent being quite steep, we soon made the distance of three orfour miles to where there was but about six inches of snow, and wherewe found some feed. Our matches were all damp, and we were wet as couldbe. We split up our spare yoke and struck fire with flint and steel,crawled into the wagon, and started a fire in the frying-pan. Then, asthere was plenty of fuel, we made a roaring fire outside, took a biteto eat, and turned in for a few moments' rest, being satisfied that theothers of the party had halted before they reached the summit, and asthe guide was with them we thought they would take a rest and come onat daybreak.

This conjecture proved right, for about 4 o'clock a.m. Captain Hunthallooed to us and called for a cup of coffee. He seemed to be chilledto the bone, so we soon stirred the fire and got him something to eat.He told us all the teams would make the riffle, but for us to havea good fire, for some of the men would be chilled nearly to death.Then he directed us to go ahead until we found feed for the stock,and he would remain until the company came up. We advanced about tenmiles, and halted for our cattle to feed and rest. In the meantimewe discovered the company coming down the slope of the mountain. Ourfeelings, as well as theirs, were much relieved at the sight, as webeheld each other, and when they had rested their teams they came on toour camping place for another stop, while we moved ahead to the MohaveRiver. When we reached that stream, I presume that we felt as pleasedas a man liberated from a life sentence in a dungeon, for we had reasonto feel assured that we would succeed in our journey, as we had onlyone more hard scramble of thirty miles, and had pleasant weather andplenty of feed and water for our stock, with time to rest in. Someshouted: "Daylight once more; thank God for our deliverance!"

It was while we lay here that some of the company which had partedwith us at the Rim of the Basin came up to us with packs on theirbacks, half-starved. The story of the condition of their comrades washorrifying beyond description. Men, women and children suffered deathalike by thirst and starvation. This painful episode affords one moreinstance of where the majority had been wrong and the minority right.The new arrivals said that when we parted from them they were sorry forus. But now we were more sorry for them than they had been for us.

We divided our food the second or third time to relieve these starvingpeople, then pursued our course up stream for nine or ten days. Therewe rested our cattle, did some hunting, and replenished our food supplywith wild meat, principally venison, quail and the gray squirrel. Wefound plenty of wild grapes, and also discovered that the raccoon livedin that part of the world.

It was about the 17th of December when we crossed the Cajon Pass, inthe Sierra Nevada Mountains; from thence we moved via the CocomongaRanch to Williams' Ranch, arriving there on December 24th. At Williams'we found C. C. Rich and party; we joined in with them and had agood Christmas dinner. There we traded for new supplies to last usup to the gold mines on the Mariposa and the Stanislaus rivers, innorthern California, or the upper country. The writer acted as pilot,interpreter and quartermaster for the company of something like fiftymen.

It was about the 27th of January when we left the ranch, from whichwe traveled to Los Angeles, thence twenty miles to the north, whereC. C. Rich and ten or fifteen men left us, and H. Egan took charge ofthe company as captain. We followed up the Santa Barbara road at therate of fifteen miles per day. The roads were very rough and hilly.The whole country was still in a very wild state. We were frequentlywarned to be on our guard for bandits, which were said to be roaming inthe locality. We passed in peace, however, nothing out of the generalroutine happening until we arrived at the San Antonio Mission. Thealcalde invited me into the chapel. To me, at that time, it seemedto be very grand, so attractive was the decoration. The alcalde thenopened the gates of the cemetery, in which I saw a pillar of burntadobes with four Indian skulls on it, for the rest of the Indiansto see what they might expect if they committed any outrages on thecitizens.

From all that I have learned about Spain's treatment of the red men,it has been very cruel, yet the Spaniards claimed their methods werenecessary in order to Christianize the aborigines. At that time theIndians in California were more cruelly treated than the slaves in thesouth; many of them had scars on their backs ten or twelve inches long,caused by the lash of the Spaniards.

We continued our journey up towards San Francisco until the 11th ofFebruary, when we arrived at a town called the Mission San Juan. Therewe received a letter from Apostle C. C. Rich; it was dated February8, 1850. The mission was old and dilapidated, and at that date wasoccupied by a very rough class of men. The surrounding country was verybeautiful and fertile.

About 7 o'clock that same evening Captain Howard Egan assembled thecompany together, and called on the writer to take charge. Then he wentforward to overhaul the company that had preceded us. Next morning wecontinued on our journey, crossing a deep stream of water, and going tonear Fisher's Ranch, where we received a few lines from Captain Egan,ordering us to stop the ox teams and forward the mule teams to San Joseto get provisions. We obeyed, and purchased a beef animal and dried themeat.

When Captain Egan returned to camp he told me that Apostle C. C. Richthought I had better continue with the company on to the mines, until Isaw or heard from him again. Accordingly I did so.

Retracing our steps about four miles, we turned to the left on a trailthat led us to Gilroy's Ranch, thence to Rancho Pacheco. There we meta Frenchman who directed us across the mountains. Meantime our companyappointed six of us to precede the wagons and mark out the road, as wewere again entering into a wilderness with no roads except Indian andwild animals' trails.

CHAPTER XIX.

JOURNEYING TOWARD THE GOLD DIGGINGS—THREATENED BY WILDHORSES—DIFFICULTIES OF TRAVELING—CONVOCATION OF THE FEATHEREDCREATION—REJOIN OUR FRIENDS—FERRYING ACROSS A RIVER—STRIKEA GOLD PROSPECT—ON A PROSPECTING TOUR—AN AGREEMENT THATFAILED—INSTRUCTED TO GO TO SAN FRANCISCO TO PROCEED ON A MISSION—TRIPTO STOCKTON—GAMBLERS, SHARPERS AND MINERS AT THAT PLACE—-A TEMPTATIONOVERCOME—ARRIVE IN SAN FRANCISCO—WELCOMED BY SAINTS—RECEIVE KINDTREATMENT—ON BOARD A VESSEL BOUND FOR TAHITI.

ON the second day of our journey toward the mines we were confrontedby a band of wild mustang horses. Two of our men who happened to behalf a mile ahead of the other four of us were cut off from us by thewild animals, so that the confusion of the situation was such that wedid not rejoin them for three days. The band was about three hoursin passing us, and the trail was one mile in width. We thought it alow estimate to say that there were seven or eight thousand horses.There seemed to be hundreds of the finest animals dashing up and down,flanking the main herd, and driving, and shaping the course followed.To save ourselves and our horses from being taken in by them, we tiedour horses' heads close together, and then stood between them and thewild band with our rifles in hand ready to shoot the leaders or anystallion that might attempt to gather in our horses, as we had heardthat they did not hesitate to attempt to do when out on the open plainsas we were. We supposed from all that we could learn that they had beento the San Joaquin River for water, and were returning over the plainsto the foothills for pasture. The noise made by them as they gallopedpast us was like distant, heavy thunder, only it was a long, continuousroar or rumbling sound; we stood in almost breathless silence, andmingled fear and delight, and viewed the magnificent picture. At lastthe animals passed, and we heaved a sigh of relief.

We proceeded on for about four hours, when we had to call another haltand take similar precautions, and for the same reason, except thatthere were only about five hundred horses. When they passed we steeredour course for the lower end of the Tulare Lake, where, so we hadheard, a ferry had been located a few days before. As there was no roadto travel, we thought we would go high enough and then follow the SanJoaquin River down until we came to the crossing.

Night overtaking us, we camped by a slough where bear tracks, large andsmall, were in great abundance. For fear of Indians we dared not makemuch fire, so we passed a very lonely night, being filled with anxietyabout our lost comrades, not knowing what had become of them; for, asnear as my memory serves me, this was our second night camp since theywere separated from us. To add to our troubles and gloom, the night wasintensely dark, and a drizzling rain was falling.

Suddenly our horses all broke from us. We followed them by the soundof their feet as they ran, and after a long chase through swamps andsloughs we succeeded in capturing them. Then the next trouble came. Wehad lost one man and all our pack, and were without supper. Being outof hailing distance, it was by mere chance that we found our man andcamp late in the night. Our horses had become so frightened that it wasnecessary to sit up till morning, to keep them quiet; so that only twoof us could get a dreamy snooze at a time.

Next morning dawned and our friends were still missing. We journeyedon, passing down the sloughs to the river. At times it seemed that thewhole feathered tribe had met over our heads and all around in onegrand carnival, to consult over the advent of the white man into thatswampy country. We had never before beheld such a grand aggregation ofwaterfowl, and the writer has never seen its equal since. For a time,we could not understand each other's talk, because of the clatter. Ournext surprise was about five hundred elk which passed in front of us,but the deep sloughs between prevented our replenishing our scantystore of rations.

Soon we were pleased at falling in with our lost friends. They hadfound a lone wagon trail towards the river. We dispatched two of ourparty to meet the main company, and the rest of us followed the wagontrail to the river, where we found a man named Woods who had gotthere three days ahead of us, with a rowboat and a small supply ofprovisions and groceries. Salt pork and hard sea biscuit were sellingat seventy-five cents per pound, and everything else proportionatelyhigh. The boat had just been launched.

The next day, when the wagons came in, we took them apart and crossedin a boat, all except my wagon; it being heavy and having the rodometerattached to it, we got a cable rope and thought to tow the wagon overwith the load, but when it had reached the middle of the river, whichwas about fifteen rods wide, the rope parted and the wagon turned overand over. Then Irwin Stoddard jumped in and made the rope fast to thehind axle, and as he could not manage the pole of the wagon, I jumpedin to help him. Between us, we liberated the pole, so that after greatexertion and hazard of life we finally succeeded in saving the vehicle,but we were thoroughly chilled through. We did not cross our animalstill next morning, when we drove them in and they swam over, and wewere soon on our way to and up the Merced River. Six of us proceededahead of the teams, traveling on horseback, to see what we could learnthat would be of benefit to the company.

On the third day, I think it was, we came to a small mining camp calledBurns' Diggings, on the south side of the Merced River. There we strucka very good prospect, and stopped until the main company came up. As itwas evident that we could take from twelve to fifteen dollars per day tothe man, we advised the company to begin work there, as the country wasso muddy and soft that we could not make much headway in travelinghigher into the foot hills. They agreed to accept our advice; then camea quite laughable performance. Those who had been the very worst dronesin camp were now the first with the pick and washpan. They pitched intothe creek as if they expected to scoop up the gold by shovelfuls, leavingtheir teams hitched to their wagons; while those who had been on handearly and late, taking a more methodical view of things, first formedthe camp, got their dinner, and then went quietly to prospecting upand down the creek. By this time our drones decided there was no goldthere, and that they would go where there was some. What a lesson welearned there of human nature! The next day, however, things settleddown a little more like business, after it was ascertained that somehad been making from fifteen to twenty-five and fifty, and some even ashigh as one hundred dollars per day, to the man. Next day, Captain Eganand five others of our number were elected to go further up into themountains and prospect for the company, while the others dug gold. Thelatter were to keep an account of all they earned, and when we returnedthey were to give us an equal share with those who stayed and worked.

On these conditions six of us set out on horseback and with pack mules.When we got well into the mountains it began to rain and snow so thatwe were not able to do much but cut browse for our horses. The snowbecame so deep that we had to go ahead of our horses and break the roadso as to get out. We were soaked to the skin, and our bedclothes wereall wet. Our provisions were almost gone; so we set out for our camp,after spending ten days in a most miserable condition. We traveledin snow two and a half feet deep from 2 p.m. until 6 a.m. before wesucceeded in reaching camp, when we found that Apostle Rich had beenthere, and the men had sent every dollar's worth of gold they had dugin our absence to Stockton for supplies of provisions, clothing, tools,etc., so there was none left to pay us our proportion.

As Apostle C. C. Rich had brought word that Brother A. Pratt desired meto meet him in San Francisco by a certain date, I packed up my effects,sold my oxen to Captain Jefferson Hunt for two hundred dollars, andbade adieu to the rest of the camp, who owed me one hundred dollars,and they yet owe it.

I traveled in company with C. C. Rich and Howard Egan. On the 20th ofMarch, when we got out of the hills, we took the main road to Stockton,crossing the Merced, Tuolumne, and Stanislaus rivers, all tributariesto the San Joaquin River. We arrived in Stockton on March 28th. Theplace was at that time a point of debarkation where freight was landedfor the many mining camps. There were a few trading establishments andwarehouses, and three or four large gambling houses in and around whichwere gathered freighters, packers, and one of the most motley gangs ithas ever been my lot to see. Bands of music were in the gambling halls.At one of these I noted twelve tables, four men at each, armed withbowie knives and revolvers; and to me it looked as if there were moregold and silver exposed on those twelve tables than six mules coulddraw. On the street and around the door, calling on the passers-by tocome in and have a free drink and listen to the music, were men whom Isoon learned were called cappers, or ropers-in, to the gambling hall;they would steam men up with drink, get them to gambling, and rob them.Sometimes men would come in from the mines with their buckskin walletscontaining three to four hundred dollars' worth of gold. They wouldstand around with perfect strangers and drink free whisky until theybecame dazed, then would set down their wallets of gold on a card, andthe next moment their money would be taken up by the gambler, who wouldcontinue dealing his cards as unconcernedly as he would knock the ashesfrom his cigar. The poor, silly miner would turn away with a sicklylook, having not even enough left to get him a change of clothing.He would go into the street with his old miner's clothes on, withouta dime to pay for his supper or to get a night's lodging. Sometimesthousands of dollars would change hands in a few moments. This wasin the spring of 1850, when the strong, with revolver and bowieknife, were law, when gamblers and blacklegs ran many of the towns inCalifornia.

By this time I imagine that the reader asks what, as a missionary,I was doing there. I might answer by quoting the saying of Christ,that it was not the righteous but the sinners that He had come tocall to repentance. But I will not offer this excuse, for it wasnot applicable; and as open confession is good for the soul, I willmake one, hoping that it may be not only good for my soul, but be awarning to all who read it. I was twenty-one years old at the time,and was alone on the street. I did not know where to go or what todo. My companions had left on business, and as I started along thestreet I met with an old time friend who appeared very much pleased tosee me. His pleasure was reciprocated. He asked me to go in and havesomething to drink; I thanked him and said that I was not in the habitof indulging. He said, "Oh, come in, and have a little wine for oldfriendship's sake. There is no harm in a little wine; come, go in andhear the music, anyway." With that I turned in with him to the largestgambling den in the town. The place was packed with men of almost everynationality. This was the house I have described.

In the time of great excitement, it must be confessed, the writer wastempted to lay down a purse of one hundred dollars, as he had thatamount with him. But the next instant the thought came to him, Wouldyou try to beat a watchmaker or a gunsmith at his trade? The ideawas so absurd that he then thought how foolish it was to try to beatthese professional gamblers at their own game. Then the disgrace thatattached to the act became so repulsive to his nature, that he feltashamed that he ever had been tempted; and to this day, in a life ofseventy-two years, he has never gambled. He has always felt thankfulthat that simple thought came to him at that time and place.

As soon as I could arrange a little business that detained me atStockton, I boarded a steamboat called the Captain Sutter, bound forSan Francisco, paying twenty-five dollars for a seventy-five mile rideon the crowded deck. I paid two dollars for a dinner that consistedof tough beef, poor bread, and a cup of tea. Such were "times" inCalifornia in 1850.

We landed at the great wharf in San Francisco about 8 o'clock thatevening, April 5th. I went up town, where the streets were crowded,then returned and slept on the deck of the boat. Next morning, I tookmy trunk to the Boston House, and leaving it there, sought friends.I was not long in finding Brother Morris, who directed me to BrotherCade's, who, together with his good lady, received me very kindly. Heinquired if I had any place to stop at, and when I told him no, hesaid, "Stop and have dinner with us, then bring your trunk here andstay until you can do better, if you can do with such fare as we have.We are old and cannot do very well, but you are welcome to stay with usas long as my old lady can cook for us."

With thanks, the writer accepted the kind offer, and from there visitedthe Saints in San Francisco. I met Amasa M. Lyman and Charles C.Rich, two of the Twelve Apostles, also found Addison Pratt, my fellowmissionary. Brother and Sister Cade were not willing that I should stopover night at any other place, or pay for my washing. The good old ladysaid she had money enough to last her while she lived and pay for thewashing of my clothes. Sister Ivins, who lived near by, sent for myclothes and had them well laundered. While I stayed there, Sister Cadepresented me with five dollars and a nice silk handkerchief, and theold gentleman gave me a good inkstand. Sister Patch, who lived near by,gave me five dollars and a silk vest, and many of the Saints showed usfavors.

On April 19th we carried our trunks on board the brig Frederick,Captain Dunham commanding. The fare was one hundred dollars each, inthe cabin. We returned on shore and stayed over night, and havingreceived our instructions and blessings from Apostles A. M. Lyman andC. C. Rich, we boarded the vessel at 6 o'clock a.m., April 20, andsailed away to the southwest, for the island of Tahiti, South PacificOcean.

CHAPTER XX.

SAILING FOR THE SOUTH PACIFIC—SEVERE ATTACK OF SEASICKNESS—BECALMEDIN THE TROPICS—INTENSE HEAT—MARQUESAS ISLANDS—CANNIBALS—REACHTAHITI—LAND AT PAPEETE—MEET WITH FRIENDS—HEARTY WELCOME—PREACHINGTO THE NATIVES—ANIMOSITY OF PROTESTANTS AND CATHOLICS TOWARD THEMORMONS—JEALOUSY OF FRENCH GOVERNMENT OFFICIALS ON THE ISLAND—WATCHEDBY DETECTIVES—SIX NATIVES BAPTIZED—LEARNING THE LANGUAGE—RUMORSOF AN INTENTION TO EXPEL THE MORMONS—ELDERS B. F. GROUARD AND T.WHITAKER ARRESTED—APPEAL FOR AID—THEIR RELEASE AND RETURN TO THEIRMISSIONARY LABORS—MEET WITH BROTHER PRATT AGAIN—INTERVIEW WITH THEGOVERNOR—THAT OFFICIAL REFUSES ELDERS PRATT AND BROWN PERMISSION TOVISIT ANOTHER ISLAND—SCARCITY OF FOOD AT HUAUA—EATING SEASNAILS ANDBUGS—STRANGE DISHES OF FOOD—ALMOST PERISH FROM THIRST—VISIT TOTIARARA—ACQUIRING THE LANGUAGE.

LEAVING San Francisco on April 20, 1850, the wind being fair, we madeabout eight knots per hour, and soon lost sight of the land over whichthe Stars and Stripes waves. The writer became very seasick, andremained so for the voyage. He was seven days without an action of hisbowels, and he could not retain any kind of food on his stomach untilwe got down in the tropics, when two flying fish flew aboard ship atnight, and the steward cooked them for the sick man. That was the firstthing he had a relish for. The captain said that if he had ever heardof anybody dying of seasickness he would have had no hopes of gettingthe writer ashore.

The monotony of the voyage was broken only by vast fields of seaweed,so dense that it greatly impeded our progress. Seabirds and fish werevery plentiful, and many times attracted the attention of the voyagers,who caught several kinds of fish, including dolphin, shark andporpoise. The fishing afforded some amusing sport, the writer gainingcourage enough at one time to crawl out on the jibboom and catch onefish.

The most trying event of the whole voyage was a calm in the torridzone, where we lay for eight days; it was said that in that time wegained only eight miles. During that calm all the pitch broiled out ofthe seams of the deck, making it leak so that it had to be recalked andrepitched. It became so hot that a man could not endure his bare feeton it, and if it had not been for the seamen throwing water on deckit seemed that we could not have lived through the terrible ordeal.Finally a gentle breeze came to our relief, and we were wafted in sightof the Marquesas Islands. We passed so close to these that the captainexpressed a fear that we were in danger of being attacked by thenatives of Nukahuia, the principal island. He said they were cannibals,and that small vessels had been captured by the natives coming off insuch numbers, in canoes, as to overpower the crews. Hence he thought itdangerous to be so close with such light winds as we had. The wind soonfreshened to a gale, and thus our fears were allayed as we bore downclose along to the northward of the Tuamotu group, sighting some ofthem, to Tahiti, on which we landed on May 24, 1850.

Tahiti is the principal island of the Society group; it is said tobe eighty miles in length, varying from two miles at the isthmus toforty miles in the widest place. The highest mountain summit is saidto be five thousand feet or more. The capital, Papeete, is in latitude17 degrees 32 minutes south, longitude 144 degrees 34 minutes west.The islands were invaded by the French in 1843. In 1847 the war wasconcluded, but not until much blood had been spilled and the countrylaid waste. Then a French protectorate was established there, andconsequently, at the time we arrived, we found ourselves under theFrench flag, and had to apply to Governor Bonard for permission togo on shore. This was granted, but very reluctantly, and we paid thesecretary three francs for each of us.

Once on shore, we found Brother Pratt's old friends, Hamatua andPohe, who treated us very kindly and on May 25th got our baggage fromthe vessel, then took us in their boat around the northeast of theisland to their home in a little village called Huaua, where we weremet by their families and six or seven Church members. It seemed tobe impossible for them to rejoice any more than they did, and underthe circumstances we could not be treated with greater kindness. Theyprovided us with the best the land produced, making us cordiallywelcome.

Brother Pratt preached to them, while I was deaf and dumb, so far asthe spoken language was concerned; but the actions of the natives spokelouder than words. When it came to meal time, they spread before usroast pig, and fish, taro, fais, bananas, cocoanuts, sweet-potatoes,popoie, oranges, pine and vee apples, doavas, bread fruit, etc. We hadappetites equal to the occasion, and felt no remorse for not havingdone justice to the table, or to the chest which was a substitute for atable.

We soon learned that the Protestant ministers and Catholic priest werevery much prejudiced against us, and were doing all they could toprevent the people receiving us into their houses, advising them not tohold any conversation with us, or attend our meetings. We also learnedthat the government officials were jealous of Mormon influence, andthat a watch was kept over us, in other words, the natives said thatdetectives were on our track, and that a ship of war had been sentto Tubuoi for Elders B. F. Grouard and T. Whitaker, who were on thatisland as Mormon missionaries, and who had been accused of speakingagainst the government. It may be imagined, therefore, that in allrespects our stay was not so pleasant as otherwise it might have been.

As it was, however, we made the best of the situation. Brother Prattpreached and talked much of the time to a few who gathered around, andhe soon baptized six persons. I studied the language by committing afew words to memory, then forming them into sentences, and having themcorrected by the natives. Then, when I heard one tell another what todo, I watched what was done. I collected many sentences, and walkedthe beach till I committed them to memory. At first it seemed a verydifficult task to catch the sounds, but in a short time I could beginto understand, and then to talk. For a change I would rest myselffrom studying the language by practicing reading and writing, havingprovided myself with copybooks and other necessary material beforeleaving San Francisco.

The home we had been made so welcome to was situated a few rods fromthe beach, and between two little streams of water that came tumblingdown from the steep precipices in the background into a small valley,which was heavily timbered. There were some six or seven small huts ordwellings and twenty-five or thirty people all told. No business wascarried on further than gathering the fruit that grew, uncultivated,in abundance for the needs of the population; and with little effortthey caught fish as they cared to consume it. As most of the peopleof the village were quiet and peaceable, it will be understood why wecalled the place our lonely retreat, or lonely Huaua. We visited othervillages occasionally, and tried to interest the inhabitants and preachto them, but in vain. They would give us food, and sometimes offered tokeep us over night, but as a rule they were very cold and indifferenttowards us.

Under the circumstances the best we could do was to study the languageand prepare ourselves for future usefulness as the way might open.Meanwhile, many rumors were in circulation about the French drivingthe Mormons out of the country; and the Protestant ministers andCatholic priest seemed to spare no pains to spread all the slanderousstories they ever had heard about the Mormons. So many rumors were incirculation that we did not know what to believe, so we remained insuspense till July 17, when, to our surprise, Brother Grouard came inthrough a heavy rain and told us that he and Brother Whitaker had beenbrought from Tubuoi, where they had been building a small schooner forthe use of the mission. He said they had been arrested on the charge ofspeaking against the French government. They had landed that morningfrom a ship of war, and he had got permission to come and see us, buthad to return that evening so as to be at the trial next morning. Hehad left a horse five miles back, because the road was so rough that hecould cover the distance on foot quicker than on horseback, and had notime to lose. He greatly desired that Brother Pratt and I should be athis trial. Said he, "I am innocent, but I do not know what they willprove, and we want you to stand by us." So it was agreed that BrotherHamatua and I should go on foot early next morning, and Brothers Prattand Pohe would come as soon as the wind quieted down, as it was thentoo high to venture out in the boat.

Brother Hamatua and I set out early in the morning, in a heavy rain,which continued to pour down till we reached Papeete, at 11 o'clock,when we met Brother Grouard coming from his trial, he having beendischarged. He said Brother Whitaker would also be acquitted, althoughthe prejudice against them was very strong.

Brothers Grouard and Whitaker thought the government would board andlodge them at least till it got ready to return them home again, butin this they were mistaken, so they and I did the best we could forourselves. We soon learned that the steamship Sarien would leave forTubuoi in three or four days, and the brethren would be taken back onthat. Brother Grouard sought the permission of the governor for BrotherPratt and me to go on the Sarien with him. This was refused on theground that two Mormon missionaries were enough on that island. Thegovernor did not wish any more to go until he knew more about them.

The wind kept so high that Brother Pratt did not reach Papeete untilBrothers Grouard and Whitaker had been acquitted and had gone. I hadstarted home, and was overhauled by Brother Grouard, who said somethinghad broken on the ship and they had to stop to repair it; that hecould not remain to see Brother Pratt, but would stay with me as longas he could. He had only a few moments to stop, so I proceeded aboutsix miles, when I learned that Brother Pratt was on the way by boat.Upon obtaining this information I went back to the house where we hadstayed two or three nights, finding the place barren and uninviting.Everything was very lonely with no friends there. I feared that I wouldbe alone that night, but at last Brother Pratt came. The boat hadstopped, with our bedding and provisions, three or four miles up thecoast. Although the night was very dark, and the road lay through thewoods and across creeks, Brother Pratt thought we had better try tomake the boat for the night, as we had to give up going to Tubuoi.

This course was followed, and we found our friends and bedding allright. Not being satisfied, however, with the situation, we went backto Papeete next morning, to see the governor ourselves. When we methim, Brother Pratt asked the reason why we could not be free to gowhere we chose. He replied that there had been some trouble with Mr.Grouard, and as it was his business to look after government affairs,he wished to inquire into the matter further before permitting moreAmerican missionaries to go there. Said he: "While I do not wish tointerfere with religion, it is my duty to keep peace, and if you willcall again in a month or six weeks, I will let you know more about it."

At this we went to the boat, and with our friends returned to lonelyHuaua. Indeed, if it had not been for our friends Hamatua and Pohe andtheir families, our stay at the place for some time after this wouldhave been very uncomfortable. Food had become very scarce, so that wehad to eat seasnails, and bugs that played on the surface of salt waterpools. These bugs were about the size of the end of a man's thumb; inform and action they very much resembled the little black bugs foundalong the edges of our fresh water streams, and called by some peoplemellow bugs. I submit that a dish of these, without pepper or salt, wasa strange sight to present to a white man—their legs sticking out inall directions; yet, when a man has gone long enough without food, theybecome quite tempting, and he is not very particular about the legs,either.

We also had other strange dishes set before us. When other food failed,the natives would go to the mouths of small fresh water streams, anddig in the sands, just where the high tide flowed, and at a depth oftwelve to eighteen inches they would find a something that resembledyoung snakes more than anything else I can compare them to. They werefrom six to ten inches in length, had a snake's mouth, and a spinalcolumn, or we should have called them worms; they were without fins, orwe might have called them eels. The natives had a name for them, butI have forgotten it. When they were boiled in salt water—put a quartor two into a pot of cold seawater, then hang them over the fire andsee them squirm a few moments—they were ready for the missionary'smeal, taken without pepper or salt. When cooked, a person seizes oneby the head and extracts it from the dish, or the banana leaf, as thecase may be. He retains the head between his thumb and forefinger, thentakes hold of the body with his teeth, draws it through these, andthus strips off the flesh in his mouth. He then lays down the head andbackbone, and repeats the operation until he has completed his repast.

Just a moment, my friendly reader; we have another dish for you on theSociety Islands, that you may enjoy better. It is a peculiar kind offish, very rare indeed, for they seldom appear more than once or twicein a year: then they are present by myriads. They come up out of thesea into the fresh water streams so thickly that they can be dipped upwith a frying-pan or bucket. Sometimes the natives dip them up with anopen bucket, or with a sack having a hoop in the mouth, thus takingthem by bushels. These fish are of a dark color, and from half aninch to an inch and a quarter long. When boiled they look like boiledrice, and a man can eat about as many of them as he can grains of thatvegetable. When they are eaten with the cream of the cocoanut they arequite palatable. This dish is not very common, as I remember seeing itin only three or four places.

Besides the dish named, we had a small shellfish called maava. Itlives in a shell so much like a snail's that we called it a seasnail.It was cooked in the shell, and was quite acceptable for a change inhard times. We also had a large shellfish called pahua; again, we hada jelly-fish which, when taken and laid in a dish, very much resembledthe white of an egg; it had neither scales nor bones, and was eatenraw, without pepper or salt.

Still another course of food which we had was wild boar from themountains. I can only say that the flesh is hard and tough. BrotherPratt shot a boar with his shotgun. This pleased the natives very much.I also gave chase to one which led me so far away from water that Ifelt I should die of thirst and heat. On my descent returning, I cameto a lone cocoanut tree that had plenty of nuts on. I tried in vain toclimb the tree; then I clubbed the nuts that were only forty feet orso up, but finding that it was impossible to obtain drink in that way,I sat down in the shade in despair, and felt for a moment that I couldnot live to reach water. At last my nerves became somewhat steadied,and I took aim at the stem of a nut, it being not so thick as my littlefinger. The bullet cut one stem entirely away and passed throughanother close to the nut. Thus two cocoanuts dropped, and hopes oflife sprung up anew, only to perish, for I found it impossible to openthe nuts. After a brief rest, I started down the mountain again, andsucceeded in reaching a cocoanut grove where an old man was throwingdown nuts. I told him of my suffering and he hastened down, opened anut, and gave me a drink that was most refreshing. May he receive aprophet's reward, for he gave me drink when it seemed that life wasfast ebbing away. The welcome draught refreshed me so that I gained thevillage early, being wiser for the experience of following wild boarsin the mountains away from water. Although the temptation came to meseveral times afterward, I never chased a wild boar again; but at onetime I killed one which appeared to be about two years old, without achase. This, and hunting ducks and fishing a little, greatly relievedthe monotony of our involuntary stay.

For a change from our living at Huaua, I went to visit Pohe, nephewof my old friend Hamatua, who lived at Tiara, three miles up thecoast, making my home with him. I visited among the people there, andby hearing none but the Tahitian language spoken, I progressed veryfast therein; indeed my progress astonished the natives at Tiara, whosaid. "The Lord helps the Mormon missionaries learn our language, forin three months they speak it better than other foreigners do in fiveyears."

CHAPTER XXI.

OFFER OF TRANSPORTATION TO THE ISLAND OF TUBUOI—APPLY TO THE GOVERNORFOR PERMISSION TO GO—TROOPS ON PARADE—SUITE OF QUEEN POMERE—CALLON THE GOVERNOR—CONVERSATION IN THREE LANGUAGES—DIRECTED TO COMEAGAIN NEXT DAY—PUT OFF BY THE GOVERNOR—LATTER REFUSES THE PERMISSIONASKED—HIS PREJUDICE AGAINST THE MORMONS—DEMANDS A STATEMENT OF THEIRDOCTRINES—NOT REQUIRED OF OTHER DENOMINATIONS—WRITER'S INTERVIEWWITH THE GOVERNOR—RETURN TO HUAUA—OTHER ELDERS REQUESTED TO ASSEMBLETHERE—BITTERNESS OF PROTESTANT MINISTERS—NATIVES COMMENT ON MORMONSLEARNING THEIR LANGUAGE QUICKLY.

DURING my stay at Tiara, news came to Brother Pratt that a schoonerfrom Lurutu was at Papeete, and that the captain had proffered to takeus to Tubuoi free of charge. On receiving this message I returned atonce to Huaua. Brother Pratt requested me to visit Governor Bonard, andsee if we could get permission to make the trip, it being near the timewhen we were to call on him again. It was necessary for us to give himeight days' notice of our coming, and as the vessel was to sail in tendays, there was no time to lose.

On August 9th I set out, two native boys accompanying me. When wereached Hapape, we saw there about four hundred soldiers. Then we metGovernor Bonard and staff, and after them saw Queen Pomere and suite,all in their military dress. It was difficult to tell which made thefinest appearance. On our arrival in Papeete we were told that thetroops had gone out on dress parade and review, preparatory to sailingto the island of Huhine, to settle some trouble between the nativesof that island and some shipwrecked foreigners. It was late when wereached Papeete, and we went to the house of a native named Didi,staying over night; he was very kind to us. I also met with the ownerof the Lurutu vessel, who told me he would take us to Tubuoi free ofcharge, if we wished to go. He seemed very friendly toward us.

The next day, August 10th, I went to see the governor. I met a sentinelat the gate, who ordered me to halt. Then he called for the officerof the day, who told me to wait till he gave notice to the governor.The officer went in, and soon returned and beckoned me forward. Iadvanced past a second sentinel, when the officer ushered me into thepresence of his excellency, who rose from his seat and met me. Whenwe had shaken hands, he very politely bade me to be seated, and thensaid pleasantly: "Do you speak English?" This question being answeredin the affirmative, he said, "Me speak lete." Then we entered upon aconversation. As I understood a little French, and both of us couldspeak a limited amount of Tahitian, we made a jargon of one-thirdEnglish, one-third French, and one-third Tahitian. Then we laughedheartily at each other because of our novel attempts in the threelanguages. The governor invited me to call next morning, when hisFrench captain, who could speak English, would be there. Then, withFrench politeness, he bowed me out and off.

Next morning I went, and met the governor going to church. He said hehad forgotten it was Sunday, so I would have to wait an hour or two,and come again. This I did, being stopped by the sentinel as before,going through all the ceremonies of the previous visit, and beingushered into the same room. I met the English-speaking captain, to whomI made my business known. Said he, "The governor declines to grantyour request." I was not disappointed, for I was well satisfied fromwhat I had learned the day before that that would be the result, butas the talk had not been very conclusive, I had called for a clearerunderstanding, hoping the governor might yield when he understood usbetter. In this I was mistaken, however, as it seemed the governor wasthoroughly filled with prejudice against even the name of Mormon Elder.

I asked Governor Bonard his reasons for detaining us where we were. Hesaid that in the first place he had no proof that we were good men,and he wished to know what we would preach, and what our doctrinesand faith were. I told him that we preached the Gospel which JesusChrist and His Apostles preached, and could produce our credentials,if he desired to see them. He said no, he did not wish that of us;neither did he wish to interfere with religious matters, but it wasfor peace in the country that he wished us to stop there; for if weand everybody who desired it were allowed to set forth new doctrinesamong the people, and get them divided among themselves, they wouldbe fighting, and it was his place to keep the peace. Said he, "Beforeyou go from this island, I wish to know more about your doctrine." Itold him that was what we wished him and every good man to know, and toembrace it if he would. Then he said that he desired the Mormon Eldersto get together, and make a declaration of what they would preachand how far they would obey the laws. I replied that that was justwhat we wished to do, but if he refused us the privilege of going toTubuoi we did not know when we could get together. Said he, "You hadbetter write to your friends at Tubuoi, and have them come here. Yourfaces are strange to me, and you are from a foreign country. We haveno proof that you are good men. The doctrine you preach is new to meand if you will gather all your white brethren, and make a declarationof the doctrine you preach, and how far you will obey the laws of theland, signing your names to it, then, if I accept of it as being gooddoctrine, you will have liberty to go anywhere you wish, and have ourprotection." My answer was that we had no objection to acquainting himwith our doctrine. I asked him if he made the same requirement of otherdenominations that he did of us, and received the information that hedid not. Upon this, I inquired why he made it of us, and he stated thatthere had been some difficulty already with B. F. Grouard. "Well,"said I, "did you not acquit Grouard?" "Yes," he said, "but we wouldlike to look further into the matter, and if possible prevent furthertrouble." They had lost two good seamen going after Grouard, and onefell overboard on the return trip, but they succeeded in rescuing him.

When I found that I could not prevail on the governor to allow us ourliberty, I left and visited the captain of the Lurutu. With him Iboarded his novel vessel. It was of very frail construction; all thestays and braces were made by hand from the bark of a tree called bythe natives burson, and resembling somewhat the basswood of the Easternand Middle States. The captain said he sailed by the sun by day, andat night by the moon and stars, but in cloudy weather by instinct,or guess. I asked if they did not get lost sometimes; he said no,they were well acquainted with the sea. They had been three yearsin building the schooner. It would carry about forty tons. The crewconveyed the products of their island three hundred and sixty miles toTahiti principally, but occasionally to other islands. To me the vesselappeared a frail craft, and wholly without comforts, for white men atleast.

Having satisfied my curiosity about the strange craft, I returnedto Huaua on August 11, and reported results to President Pratt, whowrote immediately to the different Elders to come and sign with usthe document the governor had suggested. The mails were so irregularand uncertain that we had not the remotest idea when our releasewould come, for if ever our letters were received by the Elders, itmight be three or even six months before they could get a passage toTahiti. Thus the reader can see that we were doomed to tarry almost asprisoners in the little valley of Huaua, which was only about eightyrods wide by one hundred and fifty in length, being bounded on thesouth by high, steep mountains, that were almost impossible to cross,at least by a white man not accustomed to climbing them; and on thenortheast the open sea rolled and surged upon the rocks and the sandybeach, to within fifteen rods of where we slept, our heads being notmore than ten feet above high water mark. This was not all; for theProtestant ministers were very bitter against us, and so prejudicedthat it was useless for us to try to enlighten them in regard toourselves or our faith. They seemed to spare no pains in spreadingtheir venom among the people, and in every way possible intimidated thenatives so that our friends were but few, though our enemies had nopower over them. With the aid of a book, however, we could improve inthe language, and did so to the extent that when we had been there fivemonths the natives who were not of us said, "Surely the Lord is withthe Mormons, for in five months they speak our language better thanother foreigners do in five years. No one can learn our language likethe Mormon Elders unless the Lord helps them." Thus encouraged, we boreour imprisonment the best we could.

CHAPTER XXII.

VISIT TO PAPEETE—DUCK-HUNTING TRIP—A PECULIAR WOMAN—ALONG APERILOUS PATH—AN OPINION OF ENGLISH MINISTERS—ARRIVAL OF ELDER S.A. DUNN—LEARN OF MORE MISSIONARIES ARRIVING AT TUBUOI—NEWS FROM MYFATHER AND OTHERS—LETTERS FROM THE FIRST PRESIDENCY AND SOME OF THEAPOSTLES—WRITTEN STATEMENT SENT TO THE GOVERNOR OF TAHITI—VISIT THEGOVERNOR—OUR STATEMENT REJECTED—LIST OF QUESTIONS AND STATEMENTPRESENTED BY THE GOVERNOR—REPLY OF ELDER A. PRATT—OBJECTIONS BY THEGOVERNOR—PERMISSION GIVEN US TO TRAVEL AND PREACH ON THE ISLANDS.

ON September 5th, 1850, I met with the opportunity of going to Papeetein a boat that was passing. My friends took me out in a canoe to thelarger vessel. I was very seasick. The wind was so high that in twohours we were in Taunoa, where we stayed over night. On the 6th we gotto Papeete, where I received a letter from B. F. Grouard. I answeredit the same day. We found friends who treated us very kindly; thenreturned to our lonely retreat, traveling through a heavy rainstorm allthe way.

We continued our studies without anything to vary the monotony untilOctober 2nd, when President Pratt and Hamatua, and three children fromthe latter's family, took their blankets and went into the mountainsfor a change, while I made a visit to my friend Pohe to get my books,which had been left with him. When I returned I continued my studiesalone until Brother Pratt and party came back; then, on September 15th,I went to Papeno, duck-hunting. As Sister Hamatua had some relativesthere, she and her stepdaughter accompanied me, thinking that my staywould be made more pleasant. Sister Hamatua was between fifty and sixtyyears of age, was well versed in the scriptures, and as true to herreligion as anyone I have ever met. She had never had any children ofher own, and yet she had taken three young babes, from their birth, andnursed them at her own breast, and gave them suck and reared them. Ithink one mother had died at her child's birth, and with another childthe young mother had cast it away to die, as it was illegitimate, andshe denied its being her child. The third had been promised to SisterHamatua before its birth, and at that time she claimed it and took ithome the same hour. I saw the children, and the natives bore witness tothe truth of the narrative here given. The youngest child was princessof Tubuoi, her name was Aura, and at the time I write of she was abright girl of eight years.

We went on our journey to Papeno, passing down along the cliffs of rockand precipitous and deep, dark caverns that were almost impassable.The shrieking and howling of the wind as it was forced up throughthe crevices in the rocks by the surging waves from the open sea,combined with the dangers of the route, had such an effect on my nervesthat I have never desired a repetition of the hazardous trip, thoughI traveled many times on the Brom (state road), parallel with theperilous path. I had no desire to pass over or even to think of thejeopardy we were in on that terrible trail. Suffice it to say, that wereached our journey's end in safety, and stayed with the governor ofthe village, who treated us very kindly. We returned next day, the 16thof September. On our way we saw a ship heading for Papeete. This gaveus hope that we would get some news from the outer world.

September 22nd. Pipitila and I started for Papeete, thinking we wouldmeet with the Elders, or at least get some word from them. All that wecould learn was that they were expected in Tubuoi instead of in Tahiti.We stayed in Taunaa, where we met with friends who treated us well. Oneold man said that he had become tired of the English ministers, forthey preached one thing and did the opposite. Said he, "I have been afool that has no eyes all my life. I have belonged to the Protestantchurch ever since it has been here, and still I am like a fool, for Iam black or dark in my heart. I have tried ever since the missionariescame to get light. They came and went back and died, and still I ama fool, and darkness fills my soul, for I never learned before thatChrist was baptized. You have given me the first light that I have everhad on the Gospel." We returned to our home on September 25th and foundall well. On October 3rd friends from Tiara came to visit us, and for atime broke the monotony of our island-prison life.

Nothing out of the usual happened till November 6th, when I was readyto start on a trip of inquiry. A little girl came in and said therewas an old white man out at the creek, and that he was asking forBrother Pratt. In a few minutes Brother S. A. Dunn came in, and to ourgreat surprise and joy he brought word that Brother Pratt's family anda company of Elders had arrived at Tubuoi, all well. He had lettersfor us, too. I received one from my father—the first word that I hadhad since 1847. I also had a letter from my old friend and comrade,Jonathan C. Holmes, stating that my Uncle Alexander Stephens had beenwounded in a battle with the Ute Indians in Utah County, but that hewas getting around again very well.

Brother Pratt received letters from the First Presidency of the Church,also from Apostles Amasa M. Lyman and Charles C. Rich, all bringinggood news and words of encouragement to us. Elder Dunn told us that hehad called on Governor Bonard, who seemed very pleasant and who toldhim that as soon as we would get together and make a statement of whatwe would preach, and signed the same, we would have liberty to go wherewe chose, and should have the protection of the French government.

November 8th we wrote as follows to the governor:

"Whereas, we, the undersigned, have been requested by his excellency,Governor Bonard, of Tahiti, to make a statement of the intentions ofour mission to the Society Islands, in compliance therewith we proceedto give the following:

"1st. To preach the everlasting Gospel, which brings life and salvationto the children of men. 'For I am not ashamed of the Gospel of Christ,for it is the power of God unto salvation to every one that believeth,to the Jew first, and also to the Greek.'—(Romans 1:16.)

"2nd. To teach the people by precept and by example the habits ofvirtue and industry, which are so desirable to the happiness andprosperity of civilized life.

"3rd. To observe and keep the laws of every land wherein we dwell,so far as it is required of preachers of the Gospel in Christiancountries; and to teach and admonish the people to observe and keep thelaws of the land.

"Huaua, Tahiti, November 8, 1850.

"[Signed] Addison Pratt,
"Simeon A. Dunn,
"James S. Brown."

We started on November 10th to see the governor and present to himthe foregoing. Traveling on foot, we went to Papeno, where we werevery kindly received by the governor, at whose house we stopped overnight. Many of his friends called to see and greet us. On the 11th weproceeded to Papeete, arriving there in time to pass the guard andbe ushered into the governor's office, where we were received verycoldly. The governor was engaged talking with two officers. We stooduntil observed, from a side room, by a French officer, who invitedus (speaking in English) to come in and be seated; he then called aninterpreter. When the latter came he looked over the article that wehad presented, and rejected it. Then he produced one which the governorhad had drawn up, and which he read as follows:

"On my arrival at Tahiti, two or three persons styled Mormonmissionaries were residing either at Tubuoi or at the Pamutus. Asthey were already there, I thought it proper to allow them to remain,considering the small number of persons forming the mission, uponconditions, however, that they attended strictly to the laws whichgovern the lands of the protectorate, not interfering in any way withpolitics or civil matters, but solely religious, with which I have nointention whatever to interfere.

"Now that a large number of persons attached to the Mormon missionrequest permission to reside at the Society Islands, tending to createa sort of church government embracing all the lands of the protectorateof France, to create, it might be said, a new existence in thepopulation of the islands, it is now my duty to interfere.

"I requested to be informed as to what are the means of the Mormons fortheir living.

"1st. From whence the society of Mormon missionaries derive the powerof forming themselves into a body?

"2nd. What are the forms of government and the discipline which governthis society?

"3rd. What guarantee of morality and good conduct do they require frommembers appointed as missionaries for the foreigners?

"4th. What guarantee do they require before conferring grades andoffices on natives?

"5th. What duty do they require either from foreigners or from nativemembers, not including religious dogmas, with which I shall notinterfere?

"6th. What number of religious services do they hold weekly or monthly?

"7th. Finally, what morals do the Mormons preach?

"These questions put, and satisfactorily answered. This is what it ismy duty to make known to the Mormon missionaries: As men, they, as allforeigners, are permitted to reside in the islands of the protectorate,and have a right to French protection by conforming themselves to thelaws of the country; as missionaries, with an open pulpit which mightconsequently give them great influence over the population, and create,as it were, a new power, it is my duty to impose conditions that theyguarantee, consequently:

"1st. The Mormon missionaries shall bind themselves to preach theirreligion without interfering in any way or under any pretext withpolitics or civil matters.

"2nd. They shall withhold from speaking from the pulpit against thereligion established in the islands of the protectorate, or the lawsand the acts emanating from the authorities.

"3rd. They shall not exact from the inhabitants of the islands of theprotectorate any tax, either in money, labor, provisions or material.

"4th. They shall not inflict penalties upon any one, either in money,labor, provisions, or material, for failing to comply with the rules ofthe religion they preach.

"5th. They cannot acquire land in the name of the society, without theapprobation of the protectorate government.

"6th. No person can be allowed to unite himself with them, as a Mormonmissionary, in the Society Islands, before having signed that headheres to the present declaration, and whenever proof might be madeof guilt of an infringement of these articles, it would occasion hisexclusion from the islands of the protectorate.

"The persons calling themselves Mormon missionaries, and who senta delegate to me whom I could not recognize officially, are herebyinformed that before I can authorize them as a society they must replycategorically to the questions which I have put to them; that untilthen their residence is illegal, and I refuse, as it is my duty todo, all authorization to the Mormon missionaries to take up theirresidence. Moreover, it is my duty to inform them that when they areconstituted a society no meetings, except on days regularly known asdays of prayer and preaching, can be held without the permission of theauthorities, on pain of being prosecuted according to law."

When this long and proscriptive roll had been read and stronglyemphasized, we were handed a copy, and the interpreter said we couldmake such answers as we saw fit. At this we went to a quiet place, andon November 12th President Pratt wrote out the following reply:

"As it has been requested by his excellency, the governor of Tahiti,to give answer to certain questions that he has propounded to us, weherein comply:

"1st. First, as it is declared in the New Testament of our Lord andSavior Jesus Christ, that they that preach the Gospel shall live offthe Gospel, we are sent forth by the authority of the Church to whichwe belong with expectation that those to whom we preach will contributeto our necessities, so far as life and health are concerned, of theirown free will. Second, we have no authority from those who sent us tothe islands to form ourselves into a body compact, either civil orreligious, nor have we any intention of so doing. Third, the reason ofour going to Tubuoi is this: I, Addison Pratt, arrived at Tubuoi inthe year 1844, in the capacity of a missionary of the Gospel of JesusChrist. I remained there in that capacity about nineteen months, andwhen I was about to leave there I was invited, by the authorities ofthe island then in power, to return to them with my family, and residewith them as their preacher. They wished also to be instructed in thearts and sciences of civilized life. After I left Tubuoi, I went toAnaa, to assist Mr. Grouard in his missionary labors, having been sentfor by request of the people living there. I remained at Anaa aboutnine months, and while there a general conference was held, by thepeople we had baptized, on the 6th of October, 1846. At that meeting arequest was made by the people of whom Aniipa was head, to send by meto our Church, in North America, for more missionaries to assist Mr.Grouard and myself, as the Gospel had spread in several islands of thatgroup. The company that has arrived at Tubuoi are the missionaries whohave been sent for, as I returned to North America in the year 1847and laid the minutes of the conference held at Anaa, and the requestof the people of Tubuoi, before the Church. A part of that companynow at Tubuoi are preachers of the Gospel, and a part of them aremechanics and husbandmen; they have brought with them tools and seedsfor carrying out the object for which they were sent.

"2nd. The forms of government by which the society is governed arethose set forth by Jesus Christ and His Apostles, as laid down in theNew Testament, to which we have referred.

"3rd. We request them to be strictly virtuous in every sense of theword, observing and keeping the laws of the land wherein they dwell,and teaching the people so to do.

"4th. We request of them all that is contained in the articles.

"5th. We request of them what is contained in the third article andnothing more.

"6th. We have no stated times for religious services except upon theSabbath; we hold semi-annual conferences. Besides these, we are subjectto the will of the people.

"7th. We preach to and admonish the people to keep all the commandmentsof God, and strictly obey the laws of the land wherein they dwell."

Our answer was signed by Addison Pratt, Simeon A. Dunn and James S.Brown, and was presented to his excellency, who objected to the firststatement, about our means of support. He said he wished men to get aliving in a more honorable way than that. The second paragraph he didnot like. He seemed to dislike scripture references. We told him we hadbeen reared to work, that we still expected to labor for our living,and that a part of our people had come to work and a part to preach theGospel.

After he had interrogated us to his satisfaction, and placed about usall the restrictions that seemed possible, the governor told us thatif we would go with Mr. Dugard, one of his officers, he would give uspermits to reside among the islands of the protectorate, after we hadsigned the articles he presented to us.

As we left the governor's presence, Mr. Dugard told us that, as it wasgetting rather late, we had better call at his office the next morningat 8 o'clock, and he would attend to our case. We complied with hissuggestion but did not find him at home. The lady of the house toldus to call at 2 o'clock and he would be there. In a short time we metthe interpreter who advised us to call at 11 o'clock, which we did,finding the official ready to wait on us, as we supposed; but instead,he directed us to go to a certain notary public, who would give us ourpermits. We did as instructed and obtained the documents, paying threefrancs each. Thus we were permitted to go as ministers of the Gospelamong the islands of the French protectorate.

CHAPTER XXIII.

RETURN TO HUAUA—HEAVY RAINSTORMS—REFUSAL OF AN OFFER TO BECARRIED OVER A STREAM—PERILOUS SWIMMING FEAT—EPISODE WITH A WILDBOAR—START ON A TRIP AROUND THE ISLAND—OBTAIN A LOAF OF BREAD—PEOPLENOT DESIROUS OF LISTENING TO THE MORMON ELDERS—CUSTOMS OF THENATIVES—REPUTATION OF PROTESTANT CLERGY ON TAHITI—WITH THE CHIEFMAGISTRATE OF UAIRAI—ACROSS A SMALL BAY IN A CANOE—FRENCH GARRISON ATTHE ISTHMUS—WITH MY FRIEND POHE—REVIEW OF A HARD JOURNEY—AGAIN ATHUAUA.

AS there were no vessels bound for where we wished to go at this time,on November 13th we started on our return from Papeete to Huaua, but itrained so hard that we had to seek shelter after traveling six miles.We came to a creek about two rods across, and began to take off ourshoes preparatory to wading it. Just then a sprightly little woman camealong and told us she would carry us across on her back. She said,"There are little sharp shells and rocks that will cut your feet, andthey will not hurt mine, for I am used to them. My feet are tough, butyou are not used to going barefoot like us, and your feet are tender.I will gladly carry you over free rather than see you cut your feet."She plead with such earnestness and so innocently that it became almosta temptation, especially as she would have considered it a great honorto carry the servants of God, as she was pleased to call us. Said she,"You need not be afraid that I will fall down with you; I can carry youwith ease." When her very kind offer was declined, she seemed very muchdisappointed. We tried to console her by telling her how greatly weappreciated her kindness, then proceeded on our way, but owing to theheavy rain soon called at a native's house, where we were pleasantlyentertained. He spread the best food he had. This was put on the bed.He also asked us to take seats on the bed, offering as an excuse, "Thefleas are so bad we have to get up there to be out of the way, or theywill get in the food."

We accepted the situation with thanks, and felt that we were rightroyally treated. The people from around flocked in until the housewas so thoroughly packed with humanity that the fleas had a fineopportunity to gorge themselves. The people did not seem to be muchannoyed by them, but talked and sang till 11, o'clock, when we turnedin for the remainder of the night, concluding that the fleas had beenso feasted that they were willing to let us slumber in peace, which wedid.

November 14th we resumed our journey, only to be driven in by the rain,but not until we were thoroughly drenched. Having met with our old andwell tried friend, Hamatua, when the storm subsided we continued ourjourney to Papeno. A call was made on the governor of that district,who told us that the river was so swollen that it was not safe forwhite men to attempt to cross. He said the natives could go oversafely, but we could not do so, and told the party they were welcometo stay with him all night. The writer thought that if a native couldcross the river he could, so he prepared for the attempt. The streamwas about fifteen rods wide. The governor, himself a very large andpowerful man, said, "If you go I will go with and assist you, for youcannot cross there alone. Two natives have been swept down to the seaand drowned. If I go with you we can cross safely, but I am afraid tohave you go alone." At that both of us got ready to cross. He tookhold of my right arm close to the shoulder. We waded in till the swiftcurrent took our feet from under us, then we swam with all our power,and finally gained the opposite shore by swimming three times thewidth of the river. The governor could have turned and swam back againwithout any trouble, but I had quite enough to satisfy my conceit, andever since have been willing to acknowledge that a native can beat mein the water.

Brothers Pratt and Dunn were well satisfied to wait for the water tofall before they tried to cross, and by late in the evening the streamwas down so that they came over with comparative ease. We stayed withsome very good friends, and on the 15th of November reached home. Allwere well. Things went on as usual until the 28th, when the nativescame running and said a wild hog had come down from the mountains andwas at the next door neighbor's, with his tame hogs. The people wishedus to come with bubus (guns) and shoot him. On a previous occasion,before I could understand the natives, a wild hog had come down andwas with the hogs of our host. There was great excitement among thenatives, so Brother Pratt hastened and got his shotgun, and went outand killed the hog. He told me to hold on with my gun, and would notlet me know what the excitement was until it was over. Now, the nativesshouted that Prita's (Pratt's) gun was the strong one, that he was thebrave hunter and knew how to shoot, but that my weapon was too smalla bore—it could not kill if I hit the hog. But on this occasion Ioutdistanced the old gentleman with my small-bore rifle. I shot thehog just behind the shoulder; it ran a few jumps and fell in the thickbrake. As the animal was out of sight, and the natives could not seeany evidence of its having been hit, they blamed me for not lettingBrother Pratt get there first, saying he would have killed the hog andwe would have had something to eat. Brother Pratt good naturedly joinedin with them; they looked disappointed, and tried to laugh me to shame,but in the height of their ridiculing me a lad who had followed thetrack a rod or two into the brake shrieked out in terror: "Here is thehog, dead! I was near stepping on him before I saw him!" The laugh wasturned.

The hog was soon dressed, and the natives had to examine my gun. Theyconcluded that both Brother Pratt and I were good gunners, and had goodweapons. The hog was a boar, a year and a half old or more, and ifit had been fat would have dressed two hundred pounds. All were wellpleased for it was a time of scarcity of food.

On December 2nd Brother Dunn and I started to go around Tahiti on foot,passing by Papeete. Hametua Vaheni, John Layton's wife, and the twosmall girls of the house, went with us to Papeete. We stayed at Faripothe first night, with Noiini, who was very kind to us. Next morning weproceeded on our way to Hapape, where we stopped at the house of Teahi,a relative of Hametua Vaheni. There we took breakfast, and continuedour journey to Taunoa, where we remained over night with Tamari. Therewe left our baggage while we went on to Papeete to see what news wecould get. We spent most of the day to no purpose, returning to wherewe had stayed the night before.

Next morning, the 4th, we started without breakfast. On the way wepurchased a loaf of bread—a rare treat to us, as we had not even seenbread for several days. We ate it as we walked along, stopping at asmall brook to get a drink. At Wamau, a man invited us into his house.As it had begun to rain we accepted his kind offer with thankfulness.Upon entering the house we were requested to take a seat upon the bed.Some very fine oranges were set before us, and soon the house wasfilled with young people mostly, who seemed very desirous of learningwho we were, where we were from, and what our business was. We toldthem, and they appeared to be very much disappointed. We soon foundthat they had no use for us, so we went on our way and soon came to acemetery in which was a large monument of masonry with an iron cross onit. At one grave there was a candle burning. We were told by some ofthe people that in the time of the war a great battle had been foughtthere between the natives and the French, and that the monument hadbeen built in honor of a great French general who had fallen.

From there we passed on through a large cocoanut grove, and in a shorttime came to a small village called Tapuna. We turned into a house andnot finding anyone at home, sat down for a rest. In a little while wewere discovered by some of the villagers, who invited us in, and as isusual among that people, inquired of us, saying, "Who are you, where doyou come from, where are you going, and what is your business here inour land?" When we informed them that we were ministers of the Gospel,they were very much pleased, but when we told them that our Churchwas called the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, commonlyknown as the Mormon Church, they almost invariably showed signs ofdisappointment, and seemed to have less interest in us. Still therewere some in almost every village who were kind enough to keep us overnight, give us the very best they had, and often go with us a littleway on our journey the next day. They never failed to have a hymn sung,and often a chapter from the Bible read, and would call on us to offerprayer. Then the eldest of the young men who had called in—sometimesthere were ten or fifteen—would shake hands with us, followed by allthe rest, apparently according to age. The young women then would dolikewise, observing the same rule, after which the older people wouldfollow, the women coming first in this case, such being their custom.

Before we left Tapuna, one man desired us to visit his mother, whowas sick with consumption. We complied with this wish, but found thatshe had no faith in the Gospel. From there we passed on to an Englishmissionary's home, the headquarters of one Mr. Chisholm. He was not in,so we passed on to the next house, where, according to what the peoplesaid, a very dissipated missionary had lived, and the other had come totake his place. We were told that the newcomer was no better than theold one, for both were drunken and lustful and behaved very badly withthe women. Such was the general reputation, among the natives, of theProtestant clergy at that date.

We went on till we were called into a house where the people said theywished to know what we had to say of religion. As soon as they learnedthat we differed from their views they displayed no further concern inus, and we departed. After wading many streams, and getting very tiredand hungry, we reached a village called Uairai, where we were invitedin to have a meal. We had been indoors but a few minutes when thepeople of the village came running in as if to a dog fight or a monkeyshow; for it was rarely they saw two white men traveling as we were,they being accustomed to seeing the missionary in a hammock carried byfour stout men.

When we had been there a short time two men came in with a message fromthe governor or chief magistrate of the village, desiring us to call athis residence. As soon as we had partaken of refreshments we compliedwith the request, the whole assemblage of people following us. We foundhis honor holding some kind of meeting with the more aged people, theexact nature of which we did not learn. He invited us in, gave usseats, and shook hands with us very warmly. He then stood before us andsaid, "Who are you, where do you come from, what is your business here,and where are you going?" We answered that we were ministers of thetrue Gospel of Jesus Christ, and were traveling to preach to all peoplethat were willing or wished to hear the Gospel of salvation. "Well," hesaid, "that is what we want here, but I must see the French governorand our ministers before I can give permission for any one to preach."

When the meeting was over he came to us again and said he would bepleased to have us stop over night with him. We accepted his kindinvitation to visit his house, and all the congregation followed, fora time seeming very desirous of learning from us the true Gospel. Weconversed with them quite awhile and there was not one to oppose us,but all seemed very well pleased with what we had to say.

Supper over, we returned to the house of Miapui, where we had left ourvalises, and where we spent the night, being well treated by our hostand by all who called on us.

Next morning our host accompanied us on our way until we met hisbrother, whom he instructed to see us across a small bay that extendedup to the base of the mountain, which was so steep that we could notgo around its head. We were taken across in a canoe, paying a dollarand a half. The man said the use of the canoe cost him that amount, buthe would take nothing for his services. He then conducted us through athick forest of timber and underbrush to the Brom (state) road.

We next proceed to the isthmus, to a French fort garrisoned by onecompany of soldiers. The isthmus is about one and a half miles across.From there we turned to the northwest, towards Huaua, as it was toorough, steep and dangerous to proceed closely along the coast. Wetraveled homeward till 1 o'clock p.m., when we came to a little hamletcalled Otufai. There we met a man named Aili, who invited us to dinner.We accepted his courtesy and while there the school-teacher called andasked us to go home with him. We also availed ourselves of this kindinvitation, finding the teacher, whose name was Tuamau, very friendly.We spent the night with him, being treated well, but he did not evincemuch interest in what we had to say on religious matters.

The following morning it was raining very hard, and for a time itseemed that we were weatherbound; but breakfast over, it cleared off,and we proceeded on our way to Hitia, where we stopped at the house ofFenuas and got dinner. Then we went on to Tiara and visited with ourfriend Pohe (in English, dead), or, as he was sometimes called, MahenaToru (third day). He made us feel very much at home. This we were in acondition to fully appreciate, for we had traveled on foot in the hotsands and sun about one hundred and fifty miles, until we felt thatwe were almost parboiled. We had waded many streams of water, which,though very disagreeable, helped to make our journey more tolerable,through being cooling. The sharp rocks and shells in the water coursesmade us pay penance instead of pennies for crossing them. Sometimes thestreams were so swollen and ran so swiftly as to be very dangerous,because the crossings were so near the sea that if a man were to losehis footing he was liable to be carried into the billows, from whenceit would be almost if not quite impossible to escape.

On the 9th of December we passed down three miles to Huaua, where wefound all our friends well, and some prospects of getting an opening topreach.

CHAPTER XXIV.

SCARCITY OF FOOD—TRAVELING IN HEAVY RAINS—CALL ON A PROTESTANTMINISTER—ARRIVAL OF ANOTHER MISSIONARY AND LETTERS FROMHOME—VISITORS FROM METIA—HOLD A SACRAMENT MEETING—GO TOPAPARA—ABUSED RY THE PROTESTANT MINISTER—PREACH TO THE PEOPLE—YOUNGWOMAN MIRACULOUSLY HEALED AT BAPTISM—GREAT EXCITEMENT—RAGEOF THE PROTESTANT MINISTERS—PERSECUTION INSTITUTED—ARRESTEDFOR PREACHING—RELEASED ON PROMISING TO RETURN TO HUAUA—PLENTYOF FRIENDS—UNINTENTIONAL ESCAPE FROM GEN D' ARMES—ARRIVAL ATPAPEETE—CHARGE ON WHICH OFFICERS SEEK TO ARREST ME—ABUSED BY REV. MR.HOWE—A QUIET ANSWER CALLS OUT CHEERS FROM THE CROWD—TIDE TURNS IN MYFAVOR—EXCITEMENT CALMS DOWN, AND EFFORTS TO ARREST ME CEASE.

ON the 16th of December I set out from Huaua on a short journey toa small hamlet called Tapuna. Everywhere I went the people werecomplaining of the great scarcity of food; still they managed tofurnish me with plenty, treating me very hospitably. About the 20th Ireturned to Huaua and preached to the people. On the 29th and 30th Iattended to my correspondence.

January 1, 1851, I started for Tarepu, finding the roads quite muddy.It rained heavily, so that all the streams were so swollen as to makemy journey very hard and tiresome. The majority of the people wererather surly and indifferent, so much so as not to invite me in out ofthe storm, so I had to pass along to where I found more hospitality.The trip altogether was a hard and ungrateful one. I had to swim someof the watercourses, and barely escaped being carried into the sea.I got everything I had with me, even to my watch, thoroughly soaked.Then I sought a place sheltered from the view of the passers-by, andthere dried my clothes. As I was alone almost all the time on this tripI felt it to be long and tedious, without any profitable results, asfar as I could see. Yet I remembered that my experience was that of afisherman; and as my calling was to fish for men I did not complain,but continued my journey to Hitia. There I called on one Mr. Baff, aProtestant minister. I left a copy of the Voice of Warning for him toread. When he returned it he sent a note thanking me for the privilegeof perusing it, but he did not express an opinion of the work. I neverhad the pleasure of meeting the gentleman again.

Having been informed that Elders Pratt and Dunn had an opportunity ofgoing to Tubuoi, I hastened back to Huaua, to find that they had notyet engaged their passage. After resting two or three days, BrotherPratt sent me down to Papeete to secure passage for them on CaptainJohnson's schooner, which was expected to sail in a few days. I metMr. Johnson, with whom I made a contract, and returned next day. Then,on January 13th, all hands went down to Papeete. We found that BrotherJohn Layton had come from California, and brought letters for us fromthe Elders who had been sent to the Sandwich Islands.

Mail matters considered and answers written, the program was changed sothat Elder Dunn did not go to Tubuoi, and as Brother Pratt had to waita few days before he could start, part of the native family that hadaccompanied us remained to see him off, while the others returned withBrother Dunn and I to lonely Huaua. In the meantime we learned thatPriest John Hawkins was expected down from Anaa in a few days, whenBrother Dunn was to return with him to Anaa.

When we were at Huaua without Brother Pratt, the place seemed doublylonesome. On January 30th, I went to Papeete and learned that BrotherHawkins had arrived with some native brethren from Metia, and that allhad started in their canoes for Huaua, to which place I repaired thenext day. All were well. The native brethren went back to Papeete, andBrother Hawkins and wife stayed at Huaua a day or two; then he alsowent down, returning to us in eight or ten days, accompanied by ElderJoseph Busby, from Tubuoi. The latter said that he had started forhome, if it was agreeable to the brethren. He told us that it wouldbe two months before the brethren would come with their new schooner,which they were building.

March 2nd, all hands went to Taunua, to a sacrament meeting. We met ina house close down by the beach, where we saw the vessel that BrotherBusby sailed on for home. There were sixty-seven brethren and sistersat the meeting, and we had a very good-spirited time. We returnedto Huaua; and it was on March 12th, when, in company with our old,faithful friend and brother, Hamatua, and family, I set sail in awhaleboat for Papara. We had a fine breeze till we came to a hamletcalled Otura, where we stayed one night and were well cared for by ourhost, a brother in the Church. On the 13th we continued our voyage bysea, having to row most of the time, for there was no wind. We reachedour destination, Papara, on the 14th, and stopped at the house ofPurua, a brother of Hamatua, who had died, and his widow had sent forHamatua to come and move her and her family to his home. We found ourfriends here very kind, and well pleased to meet us.

While at Papara, many people came in to see us. These manifested adesire to know who I was, and my business there, but showed greatreluctance in shaking hands with me. I learned that the cause of thisdiffidence was that they were afraid of the Protestant ministers. Fora while they kept very shy of me. I called on their minister, Mr.Chisholm, and presented him with a Voice of Warning, which I asked himto read; but when I held it out to him he said no, he would not readit or anything the Mormons had; "but," said he, "I want to exhort you,and show you that you are deluded." I asked what he knew about ourChurch to cause him to be so excited. He said he had had a letter fromSimeon A. Dunn, one of our Elders, and that public opinion was enoughto satisfy him that we were false teachers and deceivers of the people.At that he called one Mr. Davis from a side room. The latter wastotally blind, and had spent most of his life on the islands. Both ofthem reviled at me, and rehearsed many of the old slanders about JosephSmith and the Mormons. I left them in disgust, returning to my friends,where I found many people congregated. These were quite sociable.

Soon a messenger came from the minister and asked what kind of baptismwe believed in. When I said that we believed in immersion, that seemedto please the people very much, as I turned to the third chapter ofMatthew and showed them that Christ was baptized in that manner. Fromthat time the house was thronged with people anxiously inquiring forthe doctrines we taught.

On March 16th I was sent for by a sick man, who wanted to be anointed.When I told him about the order of the Church, and that he shouldrepent and be baptized for the remission of his sins, and thus becomeentitled to the blessings of the Gospel, he said that it was of no useto him for he was a great sinner and could not repent in one day. Thenhe said, "I shall have to remain sick." He had his own way to look atthings, and as we were unable to convince him otherwise, we returned toour stopping place.

Shortly after this I was called to see a young woman who had been undermedical treatment by the Protestant ministers for four months. Hername was Maui. She had been reduced to a mere skeleton, and was unableto stand alone. When I came, she said she had heard of the doctrinethat I had preached to the people, and knew it was true, "for," saidshe, "it is all in the Bible." She was the foremost scholar of thedistrict, and was highly respected by the ministers as well as by thewhole people. When it became known that I had been called to see her,it aroused an excitement, and many people came together, insomuch thatthe house could not hold them all. As I talked with her on the firstprinciples of the Gospel, she would say, "Yes, that is so, for it is inthe Bible;" and she said, "I am willing to be baptized now, for I knowthat what you tell me is the truth." I asked the consent of her parentsand of her young husband, who readily acceded to her desire. Then Itold them that if they would take her to a suitable place by the creek,I would meet them there and attend to the baptizing. Accordingly, theycarried her to the creek, some ten or twelve rods away, where I metthem, prepared for the work. There were probably one hundred peopleassembled. After singing and prayer, I went into the water and thefriends of the young woman helped her to me, I having to aid in holdingher on her feet while I said the baptismal ceremony. When she came upout of the water she thanked God, saying, "I am healed of the Lord,"and walked out of the water and home without assistance, although herfriends offered aid. This excited the people so much that some of theyoung woman's particular friends prepared to come into the water ofbaptism, but the older ones prevailed on them to wait a while, sayingmaybe they would all go together.

When I had changed my clothing and had gone to where the new convertwas, I found her sitting on the bed and praising God, bearing hertestimony that she was healed of the Lord, and that we had the trueGospel. The baptism of this young woman was the first that I hadadministered, she being my first convert. The house where we hadassembled was crowded to overflowing, and when I had confirmed her Ireturned to my stopping place, the people following me. There must havebeen at least three hundred of them. Several brought bedding and campedunder the trees around the house, while others were preparing a feastfor the occasion, in which they roasted eleven big hogs, and gatheredfish, fruit and vegetables for the roast.

This was too much for the Protestant ministers, for, as I was sittingat a table expounding the scriptures to the people, in came a lustyFrenchman in citizen's clothes. He took a seat among the people for ashort time, then slipped away and donned his police uniform, with belt,sword and pistol; then, with a comrade similarly attired, he reappearedat the door and asked me if I had a permit from the governor. I toldhim I had one at home, but not with me. At that he, in a rather roughtone of voice, bade me follow them. Without hesitation I did so, andabout a hundred of the people came after us to the mission station,where I was ushered into the presence of Messrs. Chisholm, Howeand Davis. All of them were what were called English or Protestantmissionaries. Mr. Howe acted as chief spokesman or prosecutor, whileMr. Chisholm filled the role of justice, Mr. Davis appearing to be hisassistant. Thus arrayed, they told me that I had been arrested andbrought before them because I had raised a very unusual excitementamong the people, and I could not produce a permit from the governmentas a resident on the island. They said I was capable of making muchdisturbance among the people, and the decision they had come to wasthat if I would not agree to leave the place by 8 a.m. next day I wouldbe locked up in a dungeon until I did agree to leave.

Of course I consented to depart at the appointed time, thinking Icould get my permit and return in a few days. Then they told me Iwas at liberty, but they did not release me until they had scoredme unmercifully with their tongues for belonging to such a set ofimpostors as "Old Joe Smith and the Mormons" were. Said Mr. Chisholm,"You are a fine young man, capable of doing much good if you had notbeen deceived by that impostor, Old Joe Smith." They told me to ceasemy preaching and deceiving the people, and that I had better go home.At that I pocketed their insults and left them. Many of the peoplefollowed me to my stopping place, some of them shouting triumphantlyfor the young Mormon missionary, and calling shame on the Englishministers.

A house full of people had assembled, and we sat up till a late hourthat night talking on the principles of the Gospel. Early next morningour boat was filled with the family and provisions, and we sailed at 8o'clock. I put on a fisherman's suit and took the helm, facing outwardfrom the shore. I did not have any particular object in view at thetime in doing this, yet it seemed to serve a purpose, for we had sailedbut a few miles when we saw two mounted gen d' armes come out of thewoods to the sandy beach, where they stopped and watched our boat tillthey seemed satisfied there was no missionary on board, and passed on.Then it occurred to us that if I had not been in the unintentionaldisguise they would have stopped our boat and arrested me, for theywere well armed, and could have reached us easily with their firearms.As we afterwards learned, they passed on to where we had come fromand made a thorough search for me, going through houses, turning upthe beds, and scouring the coffee groves and every place the supposedMormon missionary could have hidden. Then they and the Protestantmissionaries called a meeting of the people and thoroughly warned themagainst the Mormons, and especially against young Iatobo (James), asthey called me. At this mass meeting Mr. Baff, one of the oldest of theEnglish missionaries, appeared with the others I have mentioned.

There was another incident that seemed to be very providential, thoughdisagreeable at the time. The wind died away to a perfect calm, andwhen we came to an opening in the outlying coral reef, we thought thatby going out through the opening we might catch a breeze, and couldhoist the sail and make better headway; so we steered for the opensea. There we found that we had to row all day before we could getback within the reef. Thus we were carried so far from the land thatpassers-by could not discern who we were, and we were kept from the gend' armes till sundown. Then we landed away from the thoroughfare, inheavy timber. In that way we escaped our enemies, for next morning wewere off and out in the open sea soon after sunrise. We rowed all dayand till 11 o'clock p.m., then landed in an obscure place, and were upand off again by sunrise, putting out to sea and keeping there till wereached the western passage to the harbor of Papeete. There we wentashore near a large American tile establishment's wholesale and retaildepartment. Just in front of this lay a large American warship. Thewater was very deep, so that the vessel was moored to the shore, thegangway resting upon the street, where a great many people had gathered.

As soon as we landed I stepped into the retail department referred to,on some little errand. In a couple of minutes or so I was confronted bythe Rev. Mr. Howe, who has been mentioned before. He was a fine-lookingEnglish gentleman of thirty-five or forty years of age. He came up andshook hands with me, saying, "Mr. Brown, are you aware that the gend' armes are in search of you? You must have been in hiding somewhere.They have searched Papara for you, and now are searching this town, andthere is great excitement over your actions. You had better be cautiouswhat you are about." I could not understand at first what he meant, soI asked him what I had done to create such a great excitement as tohave the police hunting for me. I said I had not been in hiding at all,had not thought of such a thing. He replied, "Why, sir, you have goneand plunged a young lady head and ears into the cold water, and we havehad her under medical treatment for four months, and expected her todie. Now you have endangered her life by plunging her into cold water.She is one of the most talented and smartest women of this island. Wehave taken great pains to educate her, and she is widely known andrespected by everyone who knows her."

"Well," said I, "what harm have I done? She was healed of her sickness,as she and her mother testified to me before I left, and every personwho was present can bear witness of the same."

"Ah, well," said he, "you have such a fierce countenance and expressivevoice as to excite a person under the most excruciating pain untilthey would not realize they had any suffering at all. She may relapseand die, then you will have grave responsibilities to meet for yourunwarranted act." He continued talking, turning to intimidation andabusive language until he said it was a great pity that one of mynatural endowments lacked in educational attainments, for if I hadbeen taught in Greek or Latin I would have understood that baptism wasbaptiso in Latin, and meant merely the application of water, and notto plunge people head and ears in the shameful and ridiculous mannerthat he said I had done.

By this time we were talking so very loud as to attract the attentionof all around. Finally Mr. Howe said, "Do you teach the people thatbaptism is essential to the salvation of man or the soul?" I told himI did. "Then," said he, "you teach a lie, and I will follow you up andtell the people that you are a liar and teach false doctrine." As mycalling as a missionary would not admit of a violent retaliation, Imerely said to him that in my country that would be very ungentlemanlylanguage for one minister to use towards another, but I supposed it wassome of the Greek and Latin that he had been learned in. Then I turnedaway from him.

My action brought a tremendous cheer from the Americans on board thewarship, and from all who understood the conversation. The peopleassembled hurrahed for the Mormon boy. At that my antagonist turnedvery red in the face. Some of the natives ran up to him, pointing theirfingers at him, and shouting, "Look how red his nose is! The Mormon boyhas whipped him!" They rushed around me to shake hands, and seemed asif they would carry me on their shoulders. It should be understood thatwe talked partly in English and partly in Tahitian, so that all couldunderstand in a general way what we said, for we had grown very earnestif not heated in our discussion.

Soon after this I went up through the town and there learned fromseveral people that there had been much excitement over my havingbaptized the sick young lady, and that the police had searched theplace over for me. I realized then that if it had not been for thecalm weather we had had at sea we would have got into town just atthe height of the excitement, and I would have been locked in prison.So, thanks for the calm, although when we were in it we wished forwind that we might make better headway; but that delay gave time forreflection, and for the news of the young lady's convalescence to reachPapeete, so that I could pass on my way without further insult.

CHAPTER XXV.

SEVERAL BAPTISMS—VISIT PAPARA AGAIN—COLDNESS OF THE PEOPLE—BITTEREFFORTS OF THE PROTESTANT MINISTERS—NATIVES VISIT ME INSECRET—ANTI-MORMON MASS MEETING—FOOLISH AND VICIOUS SCHEME TOENSNARE THE WRITER—IT IS EASILY DEFEATED—RETURN TO PAPEETE—MOREBAPTISMS—DEPARTURE OF ELDER DUNN—I AM LEFT ALONE—BRETHREN COMEFROM TUBUOI—ELDERS APPOINTED TO LABOR IN DIFFERENT ISLANDS—THEWRITER ASSIGNED TO THE TUAMOTU GROUP—LEAVE ON THE ELDERS' SCHOONER,THE RAVAI OR FISHER—MEET WITH CONTRARY WINDS—DRIVEN TO VARIOUSISLANDS—ENCOUNTER A VIOLENT STORM—IN GREAT PERIL—VESSEL BEYONDCONTROL—STORM CALMS DOWN—REACH TUBUOI—FIRST PREACHING OF THE GOSPELTHERE, IN 1844.

WE reached our home at Huaua on the 20th of March, and found all well.On the 23rd I baptized Tereino and Maioa, and on the 24th Brother Dunnbaptized two other persons besides Brother Hamatua and two of hischildren. Then I sailed for Papara, after providing myself with thepermit that I lacked on our previous visit. We stopped at Taunua thefirst night, the 25th, having had to row all the way.

On the 26th we reached Papara, where the people acted very coollytowards us. There was one friend, however, who dared invite us in andprovide us with food and lodging. On inquiry, we learned that the younglady who had been ill and was healed at her baptism was sound and well,and had been so from the time she was baptized. We also learned thatMessrs. Howe, Chisholm, Baff and Davis had called the people togetherafter the baptism, inquired of them where I was, had the town searchedfor me, and had sought diligently to learn if I had spoken against themor against the French government; but they failed to learn anything ofthis kind on which to base an accusation against me and had to contentthemselves by telling the people all the foul slanders they had heardagainst the Mormons and Joseph Smith, and by warning the people againstus, saying that if they took us in or bade us Godspeed they wouldnot be permitted to partake of the sacrament in their church, and ifthey went to hear us preach they would be excommunicated. They sent adelegation to the young lady whom I had baptized, to see if she hadbeen healed, and through being intimidated she said no. Her relativeshad quarreled over the matter, some being in favor of her saying thatshe was not, while others said that she was healed. The report that thedelegation made to their masters, however, was that she said she hadnot been healed; when I went to see her, she ran out to meet me, andtold me that she had not been sick one day since she had been baptized.

By such means as those I have named, the ministers sought to turn thepeople against us, and strongly forbade them to show us any favorswhatever; and when the natives could come secretly and talk with usthey would explain, "Now, if we come openly and investigate yourdoctrine and are not satisfied with it, then we will be turned outof society. For that reason we dare not receive you or come and talkopenly with you. Our hearts are good towards you, but we are watched bythe police, so that we dare not be friendly with you where we can beseen."

As soon as the ministers learned that we had returned, they calledanother meeting, at which they seemed to take delight in abusing andvilifying the Mormons in general and me in particular. When the meetingwas over, they called two pretty young women, and privately told themto dress themselves as nicely as they could and perfume themselves andmake themselves as attractive as possible, then to take their Biblesand hymn books and get into conversation with the Mormon missionary,Iatobo (James). They were to be very sociable and friendly to me.They had been told also that they would learn that the Mormons werelicentious deceivers, and that my actions would show that I was alicentious rascal and would lead them astray. Orders were also giventhem that when they had proved this they were to return and report tothe ministers. I came into possession of this information regarding thescheme through the spirit of discernment, and by the confession of theparties themselves.

The young ladies came as instructed, and the moment they entered thedoor and I inhaled the perfumes I had the discernment of their missionand the instructions they were under from their ministers. Neverthelessthey were welcomed in and took seats just in front of and close to thewriter, on a mat. In the blandest and most pleasant manner they beganto make scripture inquiries, accepting every answer as final, andassenting to all I had to say. They became more and more sociable andbold, until at length one of them raised on her knees, and placing heropen Bible upon the writer's knee, at the same time looked him squarelyin the face with her most pleasant smile. He at once moved his chairback, and said to them, "You have not come here with the object thatyou profess to come with, but your mission is a deceptive one, and youhave been sent here by your ministers to try to deceive me, thinking tolead me into lewd and wicked practices that I am a stranger to. Now,if you wish anything of that kind you must return to your masters whosent you, and tell them that if they wish you to be accommodated inthat way, they will have to do it themselves, for Mormon Elders are notguilty of such practices, though they have proofs that the ministersare. And I exhort you to be ashamed and to repent of your sins, and bebaptized for their remission, and you will know that what I have toldyou is true."

At this rebuke, they both confessed openly that every word I had saidwas true, and that they had been sent for no other purpose than the oneI have stated. As they had come straight from the minister's house,they wondered how the writer could tell them so directly what theirministers had ordered them to do, and how he came to read their missionso accurately. They said, "No te varua tera" (that is of the Spirit);for no one else could have told him so correctly. At that they tooktheir leave, and I heard no more of them or their mission.

The ministers called another meeting on March 29th. I attended that,and after service asked permission to speak a few moments. This beinggranted by Mr. Davis, I merely gave notice that I was a minister ofthe Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, there on a missionto teach the true Gospel, and if any wished to hear me I was at theirservice, if they would permit. There was no response, so a hymn wassung, and the people dispersed. At night a few came to hear me, butseemed to be under such restraint that there was no pleasure in talkingto them.

We spent several days at the place without any success, owing to thegreat prejudice of the people, and the unwarranted hatred of theirministers. Then we left for Papeete, starting on April 2nd, andarriving at our destination at daylight on the 3rd. Having had to rowall the way, we were very tired, so stopped to get some needed rest.In the evening we baptized one person, Maua. On the 6th we attendedmeeting with about twenty of the Tuamotu Saints, then the boat and theothers of the party went home while I tarried till the next day, goinghome by land to Hapape, where I found a boat bound direct for Huaua, soI took passage on it, and was wafted there speedily.

It was on April 19th that I started for Otumaro. On the 21st we got tothat place, where I stayed while the others of the party made a visitto Papara. On their return I joined them and proceeded to Papeete,where I left the boat again and walked the remainder of the journey.The next day the rest of the party came up by sea; and on the 29th webaptized three more persons.

While at Otumaro, some Matia brethren came from Hitia after amissionary or two. Matia is a small island about ninety miles northof Tahiti. Brother Dunn, being very tired of Huaua, concluded thathe would go with them, they taking his trunk and bedding on theirshoulders and marching off, apparently in triumph. They insisted thatI should go with them as well, but having been left in charge of themission on Tahiti, I did not feel at liberty to leave, as Brother Pratthad told me to remain there until the new schooner should arrive.Therefore I turned alone to my missionary labors. On the 29th Ibaptized Tuane; and at Huaua on May 4th I baptized Tafatua and Tafai,who had been baptized by Brother Pratt; they confessed that they hadbeen led astray, but desired to return to the true fold. The same day Iadministered the sacrament to twenty-one souls.

Just at dark on May 12th, 1851, we heard a gun fired at sea. Wehastened to the beach, and, sure enough, it was our long-looked-forbrethren on their new schooner, which was named the Ravai (Fisher.)Brother John Hawkins having joined us, he and Hamatua went off in acanoe to get the news. They found all well. Next day we joined them inthe harbor of Papeete, and remained with them on board the schooner andwrote letters.

On the 15th Brothers Pratt, John Layton, Hawkins and the wives of thelast two, as well as some of the native brethren, sailed in a whaleboatfor Huaua, while we stopped at Hapape and took a nap, and at 2 o'clocka.m. started back, reaching our destination at daylight on the 16th.We rested on the 17th, and on the 18th, in council, Elders ThomasWhitaker, Julian Moses and two native brethren were appointed tolabor as missionaries on Tahiti; Elders John Hawkins, Alviras Hanks,Simeon A. Dunn and James S. Brown were appointed to labor among theinhabitants of the Tuamotu group of islands.

On May 19th, Brothers Pratt, Layton and Hawkins set out for Papeete,and at 3 p.m. Brothers T. Whitaker and Pohe, with their families,started for Pueu in a boat belonging to some of their relatives. Onthe 21st, the schooner—the new one built at Tubuoi, and commanded byBenjamin F. Grouard—called with the brethren who went down the daybefore on board. She was bound for Anaa, two hundred and ten mileseast, or nearly so. When they got opposite Huaua, Captain Grouard cameashore and said they desired me to accompany them, as they intended tocall by Tubuoi before returning to Tahiti.

In fifteen or twenty minutes I was ready, and we soon boarded thelittle vessel. She was thirty-five or forty tons burden, had pooraccommodations on board, and was insufficiently supplied withprovisions. We started, but the wind being contrary, we soon had tochange our course, so that on the 24th we sighted Riroa, and on the25th we touched at Uratua and got some cocoanuts. In consequence ofthe strong current there, we could not make much headway, but intrying to beat around it we sighted Anutua. On the next tack we cameto Aunua, where we went ashore and found a small branch of the Church.The Saints were very kind to us, showing every favor they could, andpressing us to allow one of our number to remain with them. But it wasnot considered proper to grant the request, so we held two meetings andpreached to them, giving them all the cheer and comfort that we could,and then left. They seemed to appreciate our visit and counsel as onlyLatter-day Saints can.

Again we sailed for Anaa, but the strong wind and waves prevailedagainst us, so that we were driven so far from our course that wesighted Faraua on May 31st, and on June 1st we encountered a veryheavy storm, commencing at 5:30 and continuing till 11 p.m. when itseemed to abate a little. At 7 p.m. all sails had been taken in savethe foresail, which was close-reefed, and as the vessel was beyond ourcontrol, our best seamen being willing to admit that they could donothing for us, the helm was lashed down, and all hands went below.The hatch was securely fastened down, leaving only two of our best andbravest men lashed on deck with slack rope. Everyone seemed to realizeour peril, and that we must rely alone on the Almighty to save us fromdestruction. There was land all around, and the wind and currentswere so strong that it was impossible, with the means at our command,to direct the course of our little Fisher. I must leave the friendlyreader to draw his own conclusions as to the condition we were in, forI have not the ability to describe it. Suffice it to say that throughthe mercies of the Lord we were spared to find ourselves perfectlylandlocked by three islands, namely, Anutua, Apatai and Aunua. Againgetting control of the vessel, we put into the harbor at Apatai, thatbeing considered the safest place. There we found some Church members,and were treated very kindly. We remained there until the 6th, holdingmeetings and preaching to the people.

Apatai is one of the islands of poison fish, and we felt the effects ofthese slightly before we left. We had a fair wind for Anaa on the 6th,when we started, but it soon died away and we were left to drift witha very strong current. On the 7th we found ourselves drifted down bythe side of Anutua. Having some natives of that island on board theywere sent ashore. Jonathan Crosby went with them, and returned with theboat. From thence we had a pleasant voyage to Anutua. There we wentashore and preached to the people. Brothers Grouard's and Hawkins'wives also landed.

We left them on the 9th. and sailed for Tubuoi. Having a fair andstrong wind, we were wafted to Matia, where we left some passengersbelonging to that island. We also took in a small supply of provisions,as our store was very scanty. Then we continued towards Tubuoi, havinga favorable wind till we got within eighty miles of our destination.Then a strong headwind forced us to change our course, so that we putinto a small island called Loivivi. This was on the 17th. The islanddoes not exceed four miles in length and two in width; there were threehundred and eighty-three people living on it. They had the wildest andfiercest look of any that we had met on our cruise, yet they behavedvery well to us. On the 18th we sailed again for Tubuoi, and on the20th we cast anchor at that island, which lies between the twenty-thirdand twenty-fourth parallels, south latitude. It is only twelve orfifteen miles in length, and from a distance resembles the tops ofmountains in a plain. Its inhabitants numbered four hundred, all told.

It was on this island that the Gospel was first preached in thisdispensation, in the islands of the Pacific Ocean. This preaching wasby Elder Addison Pratt, July 12, 1844. He was accompanied by EldersNoah Rogers and B. F. Grouard, they having been sent by the ProphetJoseph Smith, from Nauvoo, Hancock County, Illinois, U.S.A., in theyear 1843. Knowlton Hanks was one of the missionaries who left Nauvoo,but he died on the voyage from Boston to Tubuoi, after the vessel hadrounded Cape Horn.

CHAPTER XXVI.

HEARTY WELCOME IN TUBUOI—START FOR TUAMOTU—REACH PAPEETE,TAHITI—VISIT TO HUAUA—LEAVE TAHITI—WRITER GETS RELIEF FROMSEASICKNESS—BROILED FISH AND COCOANUTS—IN A SCHOOL OF WHALES—THROWNINTO A CORAL REEF—TOTAL WRECK IMMINENT—THREE PERSONS GET ASHORE—BOATGOES OUT TO SEA—WRECK OF ELDER DUNN'S PARTY—THREE DAYS IN THE SEA,CLINGING TO A CAPSIZED BOAT—CLOTHING TORN OFF BY SHARKS—SKIN TAKENOFF BY THE SEA AND SUN—REACH THE ISLAND OF ANAA—RECOGNIZED BY AMAN WHO HAD SEEM ME IN A DREAM—PREACHING AND BAPTIZING—MANY OFTHE NATIVES CHURCH MEMBERS—MAKE A RUDE MAP OF THE CALIFORNIA GOLDFIELDS—TELL OF HAVING BEEN IN THE MORMON BATTALION—CATHOLIC PRIESTSELICIT THIS INFORMATION AS PAST OF A SCHEME TO HAVE ME EXPELLED FROMTHE ISLAND.

WHEN we landed on Tubuoi on May 20th, we found the people feeling well.They were greatly pleased to see us, and we rejoiced to meet with andpreach to them. We traveled from village to village preaching, andvisited the people from house to house, being received everywhere inthe most friendly manner.

On July 1st and 2nd we attended to correspondence, and on the 3rdeverything was in readiness and we sailed with a cargo of cattle forTahiti. Elder A. Hanks and the writer were bound for the Tuamotu groupof islands. On the 6th, after a pleasant voyage, with the exception ofseasickness, we landed at Papeete, Tahiti, all well.

Our captain said that he would only remain in harbor a day or two,then would sail for Anaa. As I desired to visit the brethren at Huaua,fifteen miles up the coast, I started at 4 p.m., afoot and alone, andreached my destination the same evening. I was surprised when the wholefamily, men, women and children, leaped from their beds and embracedme, and wept for joy. Some refreshments were provided, and we thenturned in for the remainder of the night.

I stayed there until the 8th, and met with Elders Julian Moses and T.Whitaker, who accompanied me to Papeete, where we arrived at 1 o'clockp.m., and found the vessel being prepared to sail. Brother Hanks wasdetained in getting his permit until it was too late to get out of thepassage till the 9th, then the wind came straight into the passage, sothat we had to drop anchor till late in the afternoon. We managed toget clear that night, but the wind being contrary we did not lose sightof land till the 10th; then we had a perfect calm for two days. Late inthe evening of the 12th we got a light breeze. This day was the firsttime in my life that I could say that I was well at sea. Never beforethat evening had I gone below and enjoyed a meal of victuals; but fromthat time on I could take my rations with the rest except in a storm.

On July 13th we sighted and passed Metia, and sighted Tikahau; the14th Matea was in view, and we passed along close to the weather endof Riroa; the 18th we were near Uratua. There two boats were let down,one to pull up through the lagoon of the island, twenty miles long, towhere Brother Hawkins lived, and the other to fish. About 11 p.m. weneared the village when the natives came and conducted us to the place.They spread some broiled fish and cocoanuts before us; and of course wewere thankful to get that, for there was no other food on the island.This was all that some of the inhabitants ever had to eat on their ownisland, save an occasional pig or a chicken. After the refreshments weturned in for the night.

Next morning we were feasted as best the people could do. We preachedto them, then sailed away; for our schooner was waiting for us. Wenext headed for Riroa, as we could not get a wind for Anaa, which wehad been trying to reach from the time we left Tahiti. On the 21st wepassed through a school of whales to the harbor. Again we encountereda strong current coming out of the passage, and a headwind. Then, intrying to beat up into the harbor, our vessel failed to stay, and wewere driven into the coral rock, which stood up in the water liketree-tops. Crash we went, and the vessel began to quiver and jar. Allhands and the cook had an awful scare, and for a few moments it lookedas though our vessel would be a total wreck, and we be all spilled intothe raging billows, among crags and rocks. But thanks to the Lord, thiswas averted. Three of us succeeded in gaining the shore in safety, andthe vessel put to sea for the night, coming in on the 22nd to anchor.

On shore we were feasted on broiled fish, cocoanuts and roast pig. Thepeople seemed overjoyed at our visit. We called a meeting and preachedto them, encouraging them in their religious duties.

It was while we were on this island that we heard from Brothers Dunnand Crosby, who were well. We also heard from Manahuni and party, wholeft Tahiti at the same time that we departed on our first cruise. Theysailed for Anaa, in a small, open boat called the Anaura, the same thatBrother Grouard made many trips in from island to island, and in whichhe had many narrow escapes. But Manahuni and his party of six brethrenand sisters had a much severer experience than any former party. Theirboat capsized in a heavy storm, the same that we had been caught in onour former cruise. They lost everything save their lives, and thesewere preserved only by clinging to the keel of the boat for three daysand three nights. Finally the boat righted itself, and they drifted tothe island of Tikahau, but not till the last rag of clothing had beentorn from their bodies by sharks, and much of the skin—all of thecuticle—had sloughed off through their being in the salt water andhot sun so long. But their lives were spared to them, and they werenourished by the kind people of Tikahau, until they were able to reachthe island of their destination, Anaa.

A fair wind for Anaa came on July 26th, so we left for that place.At dawn on the 28th we sighted the island, and at 10 o'clock a.m. welanded at Tuuhora. As we neared the shore I was seated in the stern ofthe boat, when a man came bounding through the water and passed all ourparty till he came to me. Then he reached out his hand, which had in itfive pearls wrapped in a little rag, and said, "Here! I have seen youbefore. You have come to be our president, for you have been shown tome in a dream. Welcome, welcome to our land!" Just then he turned hisback for the writer to get on, and in this way took me to the shore,where the people soon prepared a feast of welcome, as is their customwhen their friends come to see them. No feast, no welcome.

The feasting over, with Brothers Hanks and Hawkins I visited thebranches, the three of us traveling together, preaching and baptizingthe people, who came forward in large numbers to receive the ordinance.August 5, 1851, Brother Hanks left for Taroa, and Brother Hawkinsfor Arutua. I had been appointed to preside on Anaa, and commencedmy labors in that duty. On the 6th I was instructed, by Elder B. F.Grouard, to travel and preach, to reorganize the branches whereverit was necessary, and to organize and teach schools as I might findit prudent; in fact, to do all things pertaining to my calling as amissionary. Thus I started out alone.

One of the first things I found after I began my labors was that therewere four Catholic priests on the island, building four stone churches;that they had about thirty natives employed on them, and that no otherswould attend their religious services; it was claimed that there wereabout nine hundred persons belonging to the Mormon Church, most of thembeing members in good standing. There were no natives there belongingto the Catholic church.

On one occasion soon after my arrival, I was being questioned, in aconversation, about California and the gold fields, and also about mybirthplace and the city of my residence. I took a sheet of paper andsketched a rough outline of the gold fields. One of the natives whoapparently had been greatly interested in the narrative, asked for thesketch. It being given to him, he went off and soon returned with alarge sheet of drawing paper, on which he requested me to draw a map,on a larger scale, showing my birthplace, where Salt Lake City wasfrom there, and the location of the gold fields. Then the question wasasked, how I came to be in California at so early a date. I told themI went there in the Mormon Battalion, in the service of the UnitedStates, during the war with Mexico. Little did I think I was mappingout the outlines of a foundation for a wicked and false charge to bepreferred against me by the Catholic priest. Neither did I have theremotest idea that my rude sketch would be used in crediting me withbeing a civil engineer of no mean ability, nor that my having been inthe army of the United States would entitle me to the dignity of ahighly educated military graduate from some United States army school;nor was I aware that my walk and carriage were that of an officer inthe military establishment of my government. Yet the sequel will showthat all this was the case.

CHAPTER XXVII.

INVITED TO ORGANIZE SCHOOLS—CATHOLIC PRIESTS DISPLEASED ATMORMON SUCCESS—GOOD ATTENDANCE AT THE SCHOOLS—THREATS BY THEPRIESTS—DISCOMFITURE OF THE LATTER—FEAST AND ADDRESS OF WELCOME BYTHE NATIVES TO THE WRITER—PREACHING AND BAPTISMS—CATHOLIC PRIESTSSEIZE A SCHOOLHOUSE BELONGING TO THE SAINTS—DISTURB A SAINTS'MEETING—MORE BAPTISMS—FURTHER ANNOYANCE BY CATHOLICS—PEOPLE DECIDEAGAINST THEM—TOWN OFFICIALS APPEALED TO—THEY UPHOLD THE DECISION INFAVOR OF THE MORMONS—PRIESTS WRITE TO GOVERNOR BONARD, MAKING FALSECHARGES AGAINST ME—A PECULIAR DREAM.

ON August 7th I was solicited by the chief men of Putuhara to assistthem in organizing a school. Indeed, the whole people were anxious tohave me aid them in this, therefore I took hold as requested. They hadno school at that time, and were looking for a white Elder to startone, as they themselves had but a vague idea of the proper order orrules to govern such an organization. The writer did not have theremotest idea that he would meet with the antagonism of the Catholicpriests in this matter, as there was a unanimous desire for him amongthe people, who had rejected the offer of the priest stationed at thatplace. However, I soon heard that the priest was displeased because thepeople had rejected him and supported us by sending their children toour school, and by feasting me and showing me marked preference in manyways. Our house was crowded to its full capacity every evening, whilethe priest sat alone in his studio.

On August 12th we had thirty-six students; by the 14th the school hadincreased to sixty-five. The priest came to the door, looked in, thenturned short on his heel, and went away without speaking, yet showinghis displeasure in his manner. Soon he got a house to run oppositionin school work, but he failed to get pupils. Then he became very crossand snarly at every one he came in contact with; at least, so said thepeople.

In company with some of my friends, I went to Otapipi on August 15th.We met a man with a letter from the head Catholic priest, for me. Itwas in the Tahitian language, and began as follows: "Iarran Iatobo, ite Atua" (James, how do you do in the Lord?) and continued, translatedinto English: "This is what I have to say to you: Do not trouble ourschools, and we will not trouble yours. If you do so again, I will sendfor the governor's aide de camp, and we will have you tried beforehim. You must not trouble us any more." It closed with "Tidar ParanIaraan ae, Tavara" (That is all the talk. Good bye to you.) As we hadnot knowingly interfered with their schools we did not make any reply,but continued our journey to Otapipi, and held a prayer meeting atthat place at 3 o'clock p.m. While there I saw a priest and his twoattendants coming across the lake. They landed, and came straight tothe house where we had put up. The priest walked in without hesitation,and politely offered to shake hands. We met him as politely, and tookhis hand. Then he asked if we had received a letter from the priestbelow. We informed him that we had. "Well," said he, "we don't wantyou to interfere with our schools, and we will not with yours." Atthe same time he threatened me with the governor's authority, if wedid not "walk straight." After some discourse, I asked him what kindof a God he worshiped. He said a spirit without body or parts; but hefailed to find any Scripture to support his belief, and the peoplewho had gathered around laughed at him, making him feel very much outof temper. On August 16th he called a few children together and spokebriefly to them in Latin or some language that I did not understand.Then he departed for another village.

Soon after this, the people prepared a feast in honor of our visit.The food consisted of roasted fish and fowl. Many little presents werealso brought, such as could be made from the fiber of the cocoanuthusk, mats, shells, etc. When all was laid before us, the spokesmansaid, in substance, in the Tahitian language: "James, as a token ofour great love and respect for you, the servant of God, we, the peopleof Otapipi, Anaa, have collected of all the varieties of food that ourland affords, and a few articles of use. Here is a pig, there is afish, and fowl, and here are cocoanuts. This is meat and drink for us,and all that is produced in our land. We wish you to accept it from allof us as your true friends, and we wish you to eat and be full. Be ourpresident and teacher in the Gospel, and a teacher of our children; forwe are glad to have you come to our land as a father and guide. Ourhearts are full of gladness that God has sent you to our land, that wemay be taught to love the true and living God, for we have always beenin the dark, and did not know there was a true and living God to loveand worship. Now we have no more to say. Amen."

The foregoing is a fair representation of the addresses made to us onoccasions such as that was. That night the house could not hold allwho came to search the Scriptures and sing sacred hymns. Three personsoffered themselves for baptism, and were put off till Sunday, the 17th,when I preached on faith, repentance, and baptism for the remission ofsins. At the afternoon services, I exhorted the people to be faithful,told them the conditions on which they could be admitted into theChurch, and said that all who felt to accept those conditions might beaccommodated that evening, as I had three candidates to wait on at theclose of the services.

When the meeting was over, the whole congregation gathered down by theseaside. We sang a hymn and prayed, and I went down into the water andremained there until I had baptized thirty-five souls. When these wereconfirmed, the people remained together to a late hour before theywould disperse. On August 18th, agreeable to the request of the peopleand with the approval of the rulers of the village, I opened a school,classified the students, and chose teachers for each class, then laiddown rules to govern them. The feasting was continued from day to dayto August 24th. On Sunday, the 25th, I preached from the second chapterof the Acts of the Apostles. At the close of the meeting three personspresented themselves for baptism, and we attended to the ordinance.One of those baptized was Mahia, who, forty years later, presided overthe entire mission, being, at the latter time, totally blind. Besidesthe three mentioned, sixteen others were baptized, and all of themconfirmed.

On the 26th, the school was continued in good order. That day the newscame that the Catholic priest had taken charge of our meeting houseat Temarari, although the house was built and owned by the Latter-daySaints. The priest claimed the right to control it in the interest ofhis church; and the Saints requested me to come and help them regainpossession of the house. With two of the natives, I started on the27th, quite a company, male and female, following us. When we arriveda feast was prepared; the people gave us a perfect ovation. We heldmeeting that evening, the 28th, and I preached from the twelfth chapterof Luke.

At the close of the meeting the bell was rung for school. In came thepriest to take charge, but as he had no right to the hour, and thepeople did not want him to teach, but desired me to take charge, I toldthem that when they settled the dispute about the house, if it wasdesired by the whole people and their officers that I should proceed, Iwould do so. They arranged to settle the matter in a day or two.

On the 30th I received a letter from Elder T. W. Whitaker, of Tahiti,and I wrote to the white Elders. The same evening I had a call from twoof the Catholic priests, whose names were Tavara and Harara. Evidentlythey were very much disturbed in their feelings, as the people werestill feasting with and showing every respect possible to me, whilethey passed the priests by with a cold nod.

Sunday morning, August 31st, I preached on the attributes of God. Atthe close of our meeting the priests rang the bell and came marchingin with their lamps and images, demanding possession of the house. Wetold them we had business matters to attend to, and were not ready togive up the place. Nevertheless, they piled their things on the tablein front of me as I sat writing. They had as much as two or three mencould carry. They crowded their things right into my way, so I askedwhat they meant by such conduct, and who had invited them there beforewe got through with our business. They replied that it was their timefor meeting, and demanded the house, claiming it was a public building,and that they had a right to hold their meetings in it. I said thatit had been built and was owned by the Mormon people, and that we didnot propose to be disturbed by the intruders until we had finished ourbusiness. At that they flew into a rage and threatened us with the law,as they had done before, but finally they cooled down, carried theirthings out, and waited until we were through and had left. Then theyheld their services. I do not think they had over six persons in theircongregation. They dispersed quietly, and at 10 o'clock a.m. we heldmeeting again. I preached on faith and baptism. One hundred and thirtypeople attended our meeting. In the evening I baptized and confirmedtwenty-five persons.

On Monday, September 1st, I took up school by request of the peopleand their peace officers. On the 4th we had thirty students. On the5th, two native Elders went with me to Tuuhora. We received a call froma priest; also held a prayer meeting, but few people attended it. OnSunday we held three meetings, administered the sacrament, baptizednineteen souls, and confirmed them. On Monday, the 8th, we organizeda school with fifty students, and with the peace officers selected ateacher for each class. The Catholic priest called on me and forbademe changing his hours of school. As I had not attempted to interferewith him or his schools, I came to the conclusion that he was seekingan occasion against me under the law, as they had threatened me withbefore. I knew they were jealous, for where I stopped the people wouldthrong around me and the priests were left alone.

When the older people had gone through some morning exercises thatday, desiring on my part to prevent further trouble with the priest, Isent him word that as soon as we got through with the younger classeshe could occupy the building, but not before, as he had threatenedto do. Just as the messenger returned, the priest rang the bell mostspitefully, and then came rushing into the school room, his eyesflashing angrily. Our school was greatly disturbed. I advanced, andasked him civilly if he wished to attend our school. He said yes,evidently misunderstanding me. I pointed him to a seat, saying we weremuch pleased to have our school increase, and would he please giveme his name. I must confess that I felt a little mischievous, and toretaliate slightly for their constant meddling in our affairs. He sawthe point, flew into a rage, and sent for the landholders of the placeto have me put out of the house. The landholders came, and told himthey did not wish to have me disturbed, as they had sent for me to comeand take up a school; that the people preferred me to him; that he wasthe one who had made the disturbance, not me, and that he must give wayand cease his interference.

Not satisfied with that decision, the priest sent for the governorand chief men of the town, who came, and with them a large crowd ofcitizens. When the governor had heard both sides, he confirmed thedecision of the landholders, and called for a vote of the people to saywhich of us should teach school. The vote was unanimous against thepriest. Then the governor told him that as the people did not want himhe must leave the house at once, and not disturb me or my school anymore, for none of the people had any use for him, as he had witnessed;they had all voted against him, and all wanted Iatobo.

At this, the priest took up his books and slates, and after accusing meof everything that was mean and low, and calling the Mormon people thevilest names, he withdrew. Later, he wrote a letter to Governor Bonard,of Tahiti, and circulated it for signatures. We learned afterwardsthat he got thirty signers. I believe that eleven were French traders,and the other nineteen were natives whom the traders had in theiremployment. We also learned, at the cost of inquiry, that the priest'sletter contained the charges upon which I was subsequently arrested.But at that time we continued our school in peace.

On September 12th I was feasted in royal style by non-members of theChurch. They called on one of the native Elders to deliver the address,which he did in a most eloquent manner. I responded in the usual way,and accepted their kind offering. The cook disposed of the spread tothe great satisfaction of the whole assembly, on such occasions allpresent being directly interested in the distribution of the eatables.

About this time the writer had a remarkable dream. He dreamed that Godappeared, and told him to go to a field of his earthly father's, andreplant where the birds and squirrels had destroyed the grain. Then hisfather appeared and showed him where to begin the labor. When he hadbeen furnished with seed and a hoe, he went to work, and the replantingwas soon done. Then he was shown a field of wheat that, in the springof the year, was about eight inches high. The ground was quite wet,and the grain was growing nicely. While he was gazing on the brightprospects, a herd of cattle came in, breaking down the fence. Theyseemed to trample everything they came to. Then he heard a voice say,"Drive them out;" and as he attempted to do so, a fiery red bull madea charge toward him so that it seemed impossible for him to escapebeing gored to death; but as the animal lowered its head to make thedeadly thrust, the writer seized it by both horns and bore its headto the earth. The animal was coming with such force that it turned asomersault, both horns being sunk to the head in the earth, and thebull's neck being broken. Then a black and white bull, very peculiarlymarked, came up in the same fierce manner, only to meet with a similarfate. At that the herd cleared the field, but not until much damage hadbeen done.

When he awoke, the writer felt that there was more trouble ahead forhim, but he did not know from what source it would come. Of the priestswho had given so much annoyance, one had fiery red hair, and anotherwas white and dark spotted, or freckle-faced.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

GO TO TEMARAIA—MIRACULOUS HEALINGS—CHILD ASSAILED BY AN EVILSPIRIT—STRANGE OCCURRENCE—GIFT OF SEA BISCUITS—PERFORM ASURGICAL OPERATION—HAMMERING OUT TEETH—THE WRITER AS A SURGEONAND DENTIST—ROUGHS DISTURB A MEETING—THEY ARE STRICKEN WITHDEATH—FATAL SICKNESS AMONG THE PEOPLE—LOWER CLASSES OF THE NATIVESAT A FEAST—THEIR REVERENCE FOR RELIGIOUS SERVICES AND PREACHERS—TWOPARTIES OF NATIVES IN BATTLE ARRAY—FIGHTING AVERTED BY THE WRITERADDRESSING THE CONTENDING FACTIONS IN FAVOR OF PEACE—WARS AMONGTHE NATIVES—SOME OF THEIR PRACTICES—GATHERING AND KEEPING HUMANHEADS—CAUSES OF CANNIBALISM—CONVERSATION WITH ONE WHO HAD BEEN ACANNIBAL—FLAVOR OF NATIVE AND WHITE MEN'S FLESH COMPARED—THE TASTIESTPART OF THE HUMAN BODY.

ON September 19th, Nihiru, a native brother, came with his canoe andgave the writer a free passage to a village on the east end of theisland, called Tematahoa. We arrived in the evening and found a greatdeal of sickness among the people. Just at dark on the 20th, a brothernamed Pasai came from Temaraia with a sick man to have him anointed andadministered to. I attended to that and he was healed.

On the 21st, Sunday, I preached on the signs, gifts of healing, etc.There were about two hundred and fifty persons in the congregation. Inthe evening I baptized and confirmed eighteen persons. Monday morning Iopened school with twenty-eight pupils; next day there were forty-one.

On the following day, September 24th, a man and his wife came to mewith a child three and a half months old. They said that a shorttime before their child had been taken sick in the night, and theyhad talked to each other of having it anointed. At this, the childspoke, and stated in plain words, like an adult, that it would notbe anointed. It said many words as plainly as any person could do.From that time it grew worse to the day it was brought to me to beadministered to. The parents said they did not belong to the Church,but desired to be baptized, for they believed the Gospel as the MormonElders taught it. Their names were Tauahi and Taui. We baptized themand one other person, then administered to the child, which lay limpas if dead. We could not tell whether it was dead or alive. However,when we took our hands off its head, it opened its eyes and looked asif nothing was the matter. Then it nursed as any healthy child might.There were many people gathered there, and all were astonished at whathad taken place. Finally the babe went to sleep as if nothing had beenwrong with it, and the whole company rejoiced at the great change thathad come. They said that truly it was the Almighty who had healed thechild through His servant.

I turned and gave my attention to some writing that was necessary, andthe crowd became unusually quiet. In a few minutes a strong rushing ormovement among the people attracted my attention, and as I turned toface the people there appeared to be an ashy paleness over the facesof the whole assembly. All seemed terrified and speechless. At thatmoment an aged couple, a man and his wife, entered the door and wentstraightway to where the sleeping infant lay. They bowed down over itand kissed it, and then went through some ancient heathen ceremony thatI could not understand. Then they walked direct to their canoes andsailed across the lake to where they had come from. From that momentthe relatives of the child began to mourn and say that it would die;and sure enough, inside of an hour it was a corpse. The parents wereasked why they had lost faith and given up the child. They said the oldpeople who had kissed the babe had power with evil spirits, and hadafflicted it in the first place; that their power had been broken bythe Priesthood, and they could not reunite it with the babe until theycould come and touch it; and when they had done that, the parents andall concerned lost faith, and could not resist the influence that camewith the old pair of witches, as we think they would be called by somecivilized people. I must confess it was a strange thing to me. I hadnever before witnessed anything so strange.

It was on the 27th of September that the child died. On the same day aScotchman came and brought me a few sea biscuits. I was very thankfulto him for the favor, for bread was such a rarity in that part of thecountry as to give a man some satisfaction in seeing it, even thoughhe might not have the pleasure of eating it. Thanks to the benevolentScotchman. I regret that I have forgotten his name. The next day Ipreached on the resurrection of the dead, and baptized and confirmedeighteen persons into the Church.

Before leaving my reminiscences of this place, I will narrate twoincidents of some note to me. In one, we were called to see a manwho had been confined to his room the greater part of a year with aswelling in his hip and thigh. On examination it was found that hiswhole hip and thigh were filled with a thick and very noxious pus.No one in the village dared to lance it, but when I told him hiscondition he insisted that I should cut it whether it killed or cured.I hesitated to comply with his wish until all his immediate relativeshad been consulted, and had given their assent. Otherwise, thesuperstition of the people was so great that if in the operation thepatient succumbed the operator would have the gravest responsibility tomeet. But when all concerned had given sanction, and each had assumedhis or her responsibility, I performed the operation most successfully,the wound discharging at least six pints of the most offensive matter,and the patient being greatly relieved from his terrible suffering. Theoperation was performed with a penknife, for in that country at thattime the only surgical instrument ever used for cutting was a shark'stooth or a scale from a broken bottle.

In this case the operation seemed to the people very little less thana miracle. The news thereof spread all over the island, insomuch thatthe operator acquired much practice in similar cases, such as swollenjaws, boils, carbuncles, etc., and though he performed many operations,he never received one cent as pay. If the people had toothache, he wascalled on and performed the operation of extraction, in some instancesusing a rusty nail, or any kind of an old iron, in place of a hammeror mallet, to punch the tooth out. His best dentist tool was his riflebullet mold, using both ends for forceps. He never failed to givesatisfaction, for there were neither dentists nor surgeons in that partof the world.

The other incident, and a very singular one, which occurred at thatplace was this: On one occasion seven very rough characters came intoour sacrament meeting. Some of them were said to be from an adjacentisland. They came, took seats at the back of the hall, and behavedvery rudely, making loud remarks and threats about the young ladies ofthe choir. When they partook of the sacrament they said that when themeeting was out they would administer ihe sacrament in a very differentmanner to that in which the Mormons did it. Sure enough, at the closeof the meeting they pushed along through the congregation till theycame to the young ladies, and made wicked propositions to them, whichwere very quickly spurned. Then they passed on, still making theirboasts of what they would do at nightfall. But they failed in carryingout their threats, for in a very short time three of them were strickendown with violent cramps, so terrible that all three were corpsesbefore the next morning. The other four had strong symptoms of the samecomplaint, and inside of a week they were dead also. The people said itwas the power of evil spirits that had been sent to destroy them, thatthey might not be permitted to carry out their wicked purposes. Thewhole people were so excited that they shot off guns, blew horns, builtlarge fires, prayed and shouted in wild confusion, to drive away theevil spirits; and many people were smitten with sickness and some died.

On the 29th of September we sailed for Putuhara. The wind blew a gale,and we had a fearful passage, but succeeded in reaching our destinationin safety, and in time for evening meeting, when we preached to a largecongregation. October 1st, I baptized and confirmed three persons. Onthe same day the roughest people of the island assembled to feast anddance. It seemed that to quarrel and fight was the principal numberon their program, and they appeared to indulge in everything thatwas wicked. They killed pigs, chickens and dogs, roasted all alike,and ate them with great relish. They also ran through the streetswith torchlights and firebrands, and the confusion was so great andturbulent that it looked more like an actual battle of savages than adance. All ages participated, from the child of tender years up to theold grayheaded man and woman, all of them two-thirds naked, and some ofthe children entirely nude.

I had seen Indians in their warpaint and dances, but this excelled inconfused savage deeds anything I ever beheld before. It seemed thatthey never knew what order meant. Yet, strange to say, at the firsttap of the church bell they reminded me of a turkey gobbler which,when in full strut, seeing a dog run at him, drops his feathers sosuddenly that he does not look like the same bird. So it was with thatsavage-looking lot. At the first tap of the bell they became as silentas if dead, then retreated to their hiding places, and not another yellwas heard from any of them, so great was their reverence for religiousservices. At one time, though, it did seem that they could not besilenced short of bloodshed, for there were two opposing parties mixedup together.

When the confusion was straightened out and peace apparently restored,the parties separated, only to come together again later, with moreroast pigs, chickens and dogs. Then they ate of their feast until full,when some unwise person of one party made an insulting remark about theother party. Quickly the participants in the feast formed for battle,armed with clubs and stones. At that moment one man from each partyran for the ormatua (missionary). I went out and stepped up on to alarge chest, at the same time calling aloud for peace. Strange as itmay seem, although their clubs and stones were raised to strike fatalblows, and the women and children were shrieking and crying, the momentthe natives recognized me among them they dropped their ugly weaponsand listened, and the spokesman of each party came forward to plead hisparticular case. I caught the spirit of the situation and addressedthem briefly on the subject of peace, order and good will to all, andexhorted them to leave their grievances to two or more of their coolerand wiser men to settle. This they agreed to do; then they joinedforces and made an attack on the writer, not for blood, but of love andrespect. Men and women seized on to him, embracing him and shaking hishands until he was nearly smothered and almost borne to the ground.

I would not have it understood that this great reverence and respectwas shown to me for any superiority that I would claim; but it was aman's calling as a minister of the Gospel which they held sacred beforethe Lord. So long as he did not betray their confidence, the minister'sinfluence was almost unbounded, and with all their faults the nativeshad many most estimable qualities.

From this great excitement, and the accounts that he had heard fromtime to time, the writer was led to inquire into the manner of warfare,the traditions and the superstitions, as also into the causes for andcannibalism of the islanders. Their wars usually had an origin in verytrivial causes, such as family quarrels, thefts, politics and disputesover land or over fishing waters. At one time the islands had a densepopulation, and the strong would go on the warpath for conquest, onevillage or island being pitted against another. Their ariis (kings),as they call them—I think it would be more proper to designate them aschiefs, as the Indians do—attain power through brave and heroic acts,and the great havoc they make among their adversaries. Their weaponsconsisted chiefly of spears made from fish bone and hard wood, stonesand slings, clubs, and a rudely fashioned glove made by winding barkand shark's teeth together in such a way as to have the teeth stand outthickly on the inside of the hand. With this latter weapon they wouldgrapple with and tear out each other's entrails. They had rude drumsand some kind of whistles for musical instruments.

In war, the two parties approach each other, dancing, boasting andthreatening, until within a few feet of each other, when they leapat and onto one another in a hand-to-hand conflict, fighting as wildbeasts, to a finish. Their mothers, sisters, daughters and auntsprepare themselves with strong baskets made from the cocoanut leaf, andswing these on their backs; then (each with a sharp rock or a seashellin her hand) they enter the battlefield in rear of their nearest malerelative. When the latter has dispatched his man or disabled him sothat the women can finish him, he engages another adversary, while thewoman beheads his victim, puts the head into her basket, swings it onher back, and continues to follow her male relative to victory or death.

When a war is over, and the victorious party returns home, each familyhas a place for the captured heads, where they are put in rows, beingset some six or eight inches below the surface of the ground, and easyof access. This was done so that when any question arose as to thebravest family, or the member of a family to take the first place asdictator or chief, the mori, or place of skulls may be visited and atally made, when the one with the highest number of skulls or heads isgiven the coveted position. In these contests they also count the headstaken by their ancestors, as far back as they can find them, no matterhow many generations they cover. Thus the family with the most skullsgets the place sought, which is generally that of chief or king.

When a battle is ended, the victors pass over the ground, oftenbleeding from their wounds, and starved and well nigh exhausted frombeing without food. The islanders have a tradition that whatever givesthem pain they should eat. So if they are wounded by a sharp stonewhich by any means has fastened itself into a man's flesh, or by asliver, they extract and eat it, saying, "You are my enemy, you nevershall hurt me more." Thus they seem to satisfy the vicious spirit ofrevenge. This strange proceeding may have had something to do with theorigin of cannibalism. Still, I am rather inclined to think it had itsbeginning in starvation, and to that was added the spirit of revenge.Thus the appetite was cultivated until, with very slight pretext,human life became sacrificed to a depraved and vicious appetite. Thesepractices and others seemed to be justified in their savage minds,insomuch that they did not scruple in gathering up the slain andfeeding upon them.

His curiosity having been awakened in searching into heathen life, thewriter made inquiries at the most authentic sources of information forfurther light on this custom. In one case he found an old lady who wasthe last of the fifth generation back. Her intellect seemed bright,although she could not open her eyes except with her fingers. Whenquestioned in regard to cannibalism, she lifted her eyelids and said,"I have followed my fathers, brothers, husband and sons in battle, andwe ate our victims as we would eat pork or fish." When asked if shehad eaten white man's flesh, she replied, "Yes; we captured some whitemen on a small schooner and ate them." The next inquiry was whetherthere was any difference in the taste of the white man's and of thenative's flesh. "Yes," said she; "the white man's flesh is hard, toughand salty, while the flesh of the native is sweet and tender." Thencame the question as to what part of the human body was preferable toeat. She said the heel and the hand of a fourteen year-old girl werethe sweetest morsels of flesh she ever ate. Being asked if she did nothave feelings of remorse when they had committed actions like these,her answer was: "Not a bit, it was in our days of heathendom; but now,since the Gospel has come to us, we have no desire for anything of thatkind, though formerly we took pleasure in our practices, for our mindswere very dark."

CHAPTER XXIX.

HOLD CONFERENCE IN PUTUHARA—INSTRUCTIONS TO THE SAINTS—GO TOOTAPIPI—OPPOSITION AT TEMARAIA—OFFICIALS BRIBED BY CATHOLIC PRIESTS—ARRIVAL OF A FRENCH WARSHIP—THE WRITER IS ARRESTED WHILE EXPOUNDINGTHE SCRIPTURES TO THE NATIVES—CAUSE OF ARREST IS FALSE ACCUSATION BYCATHOLIC PRIESTS—I PLEAD NOT GUILTY—ORDERED TAKEN TO TAHITI—PAINFULPRISON EXPERIENCE—CANNIBALS IN CUSTODY—START FOR THE SHIP—SYMPATHYOF THE NATIVES—HURRIED INTO THE SHIP'S BOAT—IN A SCHOOL OFWHALES—A FRIGHTENED BOAT LOAD—ON BOARD THE WARSHIP—UNCOMFORTABLEQUARTERS—QUESTIONABLE FRENCH COURTESY—AMONG COCKROACHES, FILTH, ANDINCONVENIENCES—SOFT SIDE OF A PLANK FOR A BED.

LEAVING the revolting subject of cannibalism, I will return to ourmissionary labors. Peace and quiet having been restored, the peopleassembled in Putuhara on October 5th for conference, Elder James S.Brown presiding. After reports of the various branches had been made,as presiding Elder I reported the condition of the Church generally onthe island, made a few opening remarks, and called on the differentElders to speak. One after another these referred to themselves and thepeople generally having a desire for me to write home to the Churchauthorities, to get a missionary to each village. All spoke of theirlove for the Gospel, and their wish to have it preached on all theadjacent islands. There was such enthusiasm among the people that itseemed unwise to hold a lengthy conference. The zeal of the peoplethere was such that it well nigh drove them into a frenzy; so afterthe business of the conference had been done, I addressed them on theobject of a house of worship, that it was a place in which to worshipthe true and living God, and not a dancehouse or a place to havelawsuits, quarreling, fighting, and worshiping of idols in, as they hadbeen doing. A motion was made and carried that our building be keptexclusively for a house of worship. Thus everything else was forbiddenby the landholders. At the close of the conference eight persons werebaptized and confirmed.

The schools of the different villages met on October 6th, to read andspell in friendly contest. October 7th, the school in Putuhara hadincreased to one hundred pupils. That day the rougher element of theplace assembled again in their wild dancing; they sold their jewelryfor fat dogs and pigs. On the 11th, the non-Mormon women of the placeprepared a great feast for us, and turned it over with pride, saying,"Here is a token of our love for you, and we desire you to accept itand remain in our town and teach us of the Lord."

We preached on Sunday, the 12th, and on that day also baptized andconfirmed five persons. Next day, school was opened with one hundredpupils. A great deal of sickness was reported in the town. On the 14th,school was continued in good order, and we departed in a small canoefor Otapipi, where we found the people pleased to see us. The schoolthere was intact. Next day I wrote to Elder Alviras Hanks that I hadheard of his having been cast away on another island.

Sunday, October 19th, I preached, and baptized two persons. On the24th I went to Temaraia, where I met with more opposition from theCatholic priest, with regard to school matters, and learned that he hadbribed Governor Telidha, also Parai, the mouthpiece of the town, ashe was called. Having them for his backing, the priest was very boldand defiant, and no doubt thought that by keeping up an excitement theCatholics would gain some support for the foul and false charges whichhe had made against me. By the means I have named, the priest got adecision against us, and for the first time we were compelled to yield,but much against the people's desires. Still, all settled down fromhigh excitement to peace and quiet, till October 28th, when the Frenchfrigate Durance made its appearance northwest of the island.

The warship had on board the governor's aide de camp, who landed atTuuhora with his guards. On the 29th he crossed the lagoon to Temaraia,where we were. At 8 p.m., while I was engaged in expounding thescriptures to a few of the natives, in came a French gen d' arme and anative officer. They presented me with a warrant, which, being in theFrench language, I could not read. The officers stood for a minute orso, when I gave them to understand that I was unable to decipher thedocument. Thereupon the native officer said that it meant that I wasto appear before the governor's aide de camp, down at the stockade, at9 o'clock, and if I did not come willingly, they had orders to drag methere like a dog. They being armed with swords and pistols, I thoughtit wisest to go willingly, especially as there was no chance to dootherwise. The officers were quite haughty, yet somewhat nervous, forthey had been told that I was prepared to make a strong resistance. Ofcourse, I accompanied them readily and without a word, and was soonushered into the august presence of the governor's aide. I found himseated in a small room, in which were four or five other officers anda few soldiers armed with muskets and cutlasses. When I entered, theinterpreter arose, read a long list of charges, and asked for my plea.I answered not guilty to each accusation.

It will be remembered by the reader that when I first landed on theisland I sketched, at the request of some of the natives, a roughoutline of the United States, pointing out my birthplace, also SaltLake City, and where gold had been discovered in California. From thattime the Catholic priests had conspired to entrap me, to break myinfluence, and to close my schools.

The charges against me began, as near as I now remember them, andwith memory refreshed from brief notes taken at the time, by anassertion that I had subverted the laws of the French protectorate;had interfered with government schools; had hoisted the American flag;had enrolled some three thousand men for the American government, tobe controlled by the Mormon Church; had armed the men; was a civilengineer of no mean ability; had ordered the people to demolish someof the towns, and rebuild with better fortifications; that my walkand general movements indicated military ability, and undoubtedly Ihad been brought up at a military school in the United States; thatI had mapped out plans of defense; had great power with the nativepeople, and was capable of doing much mischief in the country. These,and many other charges of a frivolous nature, were in the list, all ofthem without the slightest foundation in fact, except that I had muchinfluence with the people.

I stated that I proposed to prove myself innocent of every one of theaccusations made. To this the officer made answer that they had themost positive proof to establish the charges, which were very serious.He gave me two hours to settle my business, and see friends, when Iwould have to return to the stockade and stay where the governor's aidethought proper. The next day I was to be taken on board the man-of-war.and go as a prisoner to Tahiti, for trial.

Upon receiving this information, I claimed the right to be tried whereI was accused of having committed the offense, and where I had thewitnesses in my behalf. "No;" said the officer, "your crime is toogreat to be tried before any less authority than the governor." I askedto have witnesses summoned, and the officer inquired if I had any wayof taking them to Tahiti. He knew, of course, that I was helpless inthat regard, and being so answered, told his men to take me in charge.Accordingly, they marched me to where the arrest had been made.

I gathered up some of my effects, bade goodbye to my friends, andreturned to the stockade. There I was ordered to a seat under an openshed till daylight, being guarded by two lustful police, who tookunwarranted liberty with some lewd females, behaving most shamefullyin the prisoner's presence. My friends brought bedding for me andattempted to spread it, but were rudely driven away by the guards, whotook turns at pacing in front of me, while the other interested himselfwith the females spoken of, who were void of shame.

That night I was mortified and disgusted as I never had been beforewith peace officers. At last the long night wore past, and dawnappeared. Then close to my right, in a stockade, I saw about fifteennative cannibals, who could barely hide their nakedness. They had beencaptured by French soldiers on some island in the north, and wereaccused of killing, upon different occasions, the white crews of threesmall schooners. They were also charged with eating their victims, aswell as robbing and scuttling the schooners.

I took my last glance at those fierce-looking monsters just at sunriseon October 30th, when I was called before the aide de camp to sign myname four times in English, and four times in the Tahitian language.Then I was ordered into a filthy old boat that was used to collect oil.The boat's crew were rough and dirty, and scoffed and jeered at me andotherwise made the sail across the lagoon to Tuuhora as disagreeable asthey could.

When we landed at Tuuhora it was among about one hundred and fiftyFrench marines. They, too, must jeer, and satisfy their curiosity bygathering around and impertinently staring me in the face, jabberingtogether and laughing, while the natives met me with sympathy expressedin their countenances. Two soldiers kept close to me, however, and didnot allow much opportunity for conversation with anyone. I was servedwith a bowl of fish broth and a small piece of bread, and when thiswas eaten I was ordered to the landing, to one of the boats from thewarship. By this time there were probably five hundred native peoplegathered. These followed to the boat, declaring that where theirmissionary went they would go, too, and saying, "It is the Catholicpriests who have done this, with their lies."

The news of the arrest had been heralded during the night to everyvillage, and boats and canoes were coming in, laden with sympathizingfriends, not only Church members, but full as many that did not belongto the Church. They said, "E mea hama teie" (a shameful thing, this).The excitement became so general that the guard was increased to abouttwenty armed men, and the prisoner was urged to hurry into the boat.As the water was from shoe-top to knee-deep between the shore and theboat, I attempted to take off my shoes and turn my pants up, but I wasforbidden to stop, and was crowded into the vessel. When I reachedit, it was full of sympathizing men, women and children, weeping andaccusing the Catholic priests. Fully five hundred people lined theshore, some with rolls of bedding, while others were laden down withbaskets of cocoanuts.

When the guards arrived with their prisoner, the boat was orderedcleared, and as the native people were rather slow to obey the command,the soldiers pricked them with their cutlasses and bayonets. I wasurged into the boat, which was soon manned, and the boatmen soon pulledfrom the shore, while many scores of people wept aloud, shrieking outmy native name, "Iatobo, Iatobo; no te Catholic te i a ne peapea"(James, James, of the Catholics this trouble). They waved handkerchiefsas long as we could see them.

As the boat was going out to the ship, it ran into what seemed to us tobe hundreds or even thousands of whales. For a while the sea seemed tobe black with them. At the same time the boatmen took in their oars andbecame pale and still as death, lest the monsters should take frightand knock us into eternity and the boat into splinters. The oarsmenwere better aware of the danger than I was, and were ashy pale. Indeed,it may have been the same with me for aught I know, for I did not seemy own face as I saw theirs. But I had been where cattle stampeded,where the wild buffalo was rampant, or wild mustangs were charging bythousands on the plains by night and by day; had been surrounded bypacks of fierce and hungry wolves; had been in the brush when grizzlybear were thick around, or when rattlesnake and deadly viper hissedin my ears; and I had been chased by savage Indians; still I do notremember a time when I felt that every hair on my head was tryingto let on end more than I did for a few moments as these great seamonsters glided past so near that we could almost put our hands ontheir long, black backs, while they shot by swiftly, spouting the brinyspray almost in our faces. The thought of the loss of the boat did notconcern me so much as it did to think how easy it was for a whale, atone stroke of its monster tail, to make of us convenient shark's food.While in this truly great peril, minutes seemed hours to us, and whenit passed we breathed freely again, and soon gained the great warshipthat was lying off shore, for there was no harbor or anchorage at thatisland.

I was next required to try a new experiment, to me, that of climbinga rope ladder up the side of a ship as the latter rolled and pitchedin the waves. After a struggle I succeeded in reaching the deck insafety, there to be surrounded by the marines as though I had been awild beast. When their curiosity had been satisfied, I was ordered downon to what was called Swaltses' battery, the gun deck. There I foundthat as I walked my head came in uncomfortable contact with the beamsof the upper deck, and at each one I had to duck my head. This greatlyamused the marines, and they got a mopstick, a broomstick, or any kindof a stick. Some would press the sticks on the sides of their noses,while others held theirs back of them, poking their sticks up so as tohit the beams above. Then they would form into a squad and march by andduck heads with me, while some were giving commands which I supposedmeant, "Left, duck, left duck"—at any rate, that was the action. Thenthey would shout and laugh.

Soon meal time came, and I was conducted into the hold of the ship,and there assigned to a small, filthy room. There was an old chair init, and a bunk without bedding. The room swarmed with cockroaches,which seemed to be thicker than flies. I was served with a bowl of fishbroth, and one small loaf of bread and a bottle of wine, for the day'srations. Then an officer called me to follow him to the upper deck andto the bow of the ship, where he made me understand, by unmistakablemotions, that I was to use the chains for a water closet. In disgust Iremembered that I was among Frenchmen, the most stylish, the proudest,and the most fashionable people in the world. I was an American,"honored" with two uniformed and armed French attendants, who neverleft me alone only when I was in my room, following me everywhere,allowing none to obstruct my path, and even being careful to keep mefrom falling out through the portholes, as, when I leaned over a biggun to look out upon the deep, they would take me by the arm, lead meaway, and show me the big hole in the deck, and my room.

By this time the writer began to understand French courtesy, under someconditions, and to realize his own situation. He asked himself what theoutcome would be, he reviewed every action performed on the island ofAnaa, and could not see wherein he had trenched upon anybody's rightsor done anything against the law. He failed to discover one intentionalor other wrong; so he felt to trust in the Lord, and made himself ascontented as possible, though he found the boards in the berth as hardas American boards, notwithstanding that they were French lumber.

CHAPTER XXX.

VOYAGE TO PAPEETE—IN A TAHITIAN DUNGEON—CRUEL TREATMENT—WRITE TOFRIENDS—KINDNESS OF THE AMERICAN HOTEL KEEPER—BROUGHT BEFORE THEGOVERNOR—FALSE CHARGES READ, AND PLEA OF NOT GUILTY ENTERED—PERJUREDTESTIMONY AGAINST ME—FORBIDDEN TO LOOK AT, OR EVEN CROSS-EXAMINEWITNESSES—SECRECY OF THE ALLEGED TRIAL—DEMAND MY RIGHTS ASAN AMERICAN CITIZEN—CONFUSION OF THE GOVERNOR—RETURNED TO MYCELL—AMERICAN CONSUL TAKES UP MY CASE—GIVES BONDS THAT I WILL LEAVETHE PROTECTORATE—ELDERS AND FRIENDS CALL ON ME—MY VISITORS ALLOWED TOSAY BUT LITTLE, AND SOMETIMES EXCLUDED—DECISION OF THE GOVERNOR THAT IMUST LEAVE THE SOCIETY ISLANDS—FAIR TRIAL REFUSED ME—LETTER FROM THEAMERICAN CONSUL—TAKEN TO THE CONSUL'S OFFICE—ADVISED TO LEAVE—ELDERSDECIDE THAT I SHOULD GO OUTSIDE OF THE FRENCH PROTECTORATE—SET SAILFROM PAPEETE.

ON November 3rd, 1851, we set sail for Tahiti, and on the 6th made theport of Papeete, having had a rough voyage. When the ship anchored, apolice boat came alongside, and the prisoner was ordered to try hisskill at climbing down the rope ladder. He promptly obeyed orders, andsoon found himself locked up in a cobblestone dungeon, six by eightfeet, quite damp, and so dark that not a ray of light penetrated itanywhere. For his bed he had a board dressed out like a washboard. Hehad a good mattress and pillows and blankets of his own, but they werelocked up in an adjoining room and he was denied the use of them. Whatthe object was he never learned, unless it was done to punish him. Heremained in that condition fourteen hours out of the twenty-four, andwas fed on bread and water that was very filthy. The water was keptin a small keg in a corner of his cell, and was thick with a green,moss-like substance. In an opposite corner was a different kind ofFrench water closet to that he had on shipboard—a keg which was neveremptied during the prisoner's stay there. Unlike the water keg, it wasreplenished often. As to the result of such conditions in that hotclimate, I leave it to the reader to conjecture; for I had enough of itwithout dwelling further on the subject.

On November 7th I wrote letters to Elders Thomas Whitaker and JulianMoses, the brethren who had been assigned to labor on Tahiti. On the8th, one Mr. Lampher, proprietor of the American hotel in Papeete,sent me a prime dinner. It was received with thanks, and was dulyappreciated.

On the 10th I was called out by the turnkey; immediately an armedsoldier took position on either side of me, while a sergeant steppeddirectly in front, then moved three steps in advance, and gave thecommand to forward march. In this order we passed two lines ofsentinels and went to the governor's mansion, where we met anotherofficer, who commanded a halt, and I was directed to be seated forthirty minutes. Then I was called into the governor's office, where Iwas confronted by his excellency and seven officers. They were in fulluniform and had sidearms. Each had in his hands what appeared to benotes. I was at once ordered to be seated, and the very profligate sonof a Protestant professor acted as interpreter, read the long list ofcharges spoken of, and asked for my plea thereto. I answered not guilty.

Then the trial began. They placed on the witness stand a native namedTania, who had been admitted recently to the Catholic church. Hehad been posted in what he should say, but seemingly had some pangsof conscience, for when he stood up he turned his eyes toward me,then to the court, and back to me, and answered the questions ina hesitating way, his confusion being so great that the governer,through the interpreter, ordered me not to look at the witness, ashe said my countenance was so fierce and vivid as to baffle the mostsubstantial witness. I was not permitted to ask a question, not even tocross-examine the witness.

The next testimony came from a man who had been brought to Papeetea prisoner, but who had been discharged without the formality of ahearing, evidently that they might have him for a witness againstme. Both he and the preceding witness were put on the stand withoutbeing sworn. Not a single spectator was permitted to be present, so Iconcluded that if it was a court at all that was trying me it was amilitary court martial.

When I saw how onesidedly things were going, I arose and asked thecourt what right it had to try me with closed doors, not even allowingme the opportunity to defend myself. I told them I was an Americancitizen, and claimed my rights as such under existing treaties andinternational laws. I quoted law that I had never read or heardmentioned, for it was given to me of the Lord in the hour that I hadneed. I can never forget the expression on the faces of those officers.Not one of them would look me in the eye. As I spoke, every face wasturned downward. At the conclusion of my remarks I was marched back tothe filthy cell, without another word being said.

About this time Mr. W. H. Kelly, the American consul, called on thegovernor, and on making inquiries about me and my alleged crime andarrest, was told that I was a very dangerous man, a man learned intreaties and international laws. "Why," said the governor to Mr. Kelly,"he can quote more of them than my officers, and he has great powerand influence with the native people. He is undoubtedly a militaryman of no mean ability. For these reasons he cannot be permitted totake up his residence as a minister under the French protectorate." Ilearned the foregoing from Mr. W. H. Kelly, who told me that he had tosign bonds to the amount of fifty thousand francs, and that sum wouldbe forfeited if I did not leave the protectorate by the first vesselsailing from port, or if I was known to preach another discourse underthe French government.

That evening Elder T. Whitaker called at my cell with two pies for me.We were allowed to speak but few words to each other. When the prisondoor had been locked again, I wrote to Elder B. F. Grouard, who, as Ilearned from Brother Whitaker, had arrived in port. November 11th, myold friend Pahe called with a basket of fruit, which was admitted, butthe giver was permitted to say scarcely a word.

I had a call on the 12th from Elders S. A. Dunn and Julian Moses. Theirshort visit gave me much satisfaction, as they brought news from home.On the 13th Elder Grouard and some other friends called with somefood, but they were not admitted, the food being passed in to me by amurderer.

On November 14th I was called before the governor's aide de camp, whosaid, "I suppose you have heard the decision of the governor and hiscouncil?" I told him no. He then said, "They have decided that you mustleave the protectorate by the first vessel sailing from port, or youwill be detained until you are willing to comply with that decision."I asked if they intended to send me away without a fair trial. He saidyes; that the governor had it in his power to send out anyone thatraised a disturbance in the country. I asked him to show that I hadraised a disturbance. He said, "It does not need proof, for the Mormonmissionaries have caused the government a great deal of trouble, andthe decision is that you must go by the first vessel leaving port, orremain in prison till you agree to do so." With this, I was satisfiedthat there was no redress for the wrong that was being done me.

I was then marched back to the cell, where I received a letter from W.H. Kelly, the American consul. It read as follows:

"CONSULATE OF THE UNITED STATES, TAHITI,
November 14, 1851.

"Mr. James Brown:

"DEAR SIR:—Having been informed, through the governor of theprotectorate, that you are a state prisoner in Papeete, charged withthe crime of rebellion and attempting to subvert the laws of theprotectorate established on the island of Anaa, I am bound to furnishthe honorable secretary of state of the United States with all chargesand punishments to which the citizens of the United States may renderthemselves amenable, under the laws of the countries in which they mayreside.

"You will therefore oblige me by furnishing me with an unbiasedand clear statement of the facts connected with your arrest andimprisonment. I do not wish to know what has been told to you, or ofwhat you have heard from others, but simply the truth of the wholetransaction.

"This letter will be forwarded to his excellency, Governor Bonard, whowill, through the proper channel, have it forwarded to you.

"I remain, sir, your obedient servant,

"W. H. KELLY,

"United States Consul."

Elder B. F. Grouard kindly came down and wrote my reply to Mr. Kelly.This was on November 15th. The same day I was called out into the yard,when a sergeant and two soldiers took me in charge and marched me alonga back alley to the rear of the consul's office. Then the sergeantstepped forward and notified Mr. Kelly that they had brought theirprisoner to him, and without further ceremony the officers disappearedby the same alley by which they came.

Mr. Kelly welcomed me to his office, and congratulated me on regainingmy liberty. Then he told me of his visit to Governor Bonard, theconversation they had had, and about his signing the bonds for myrelease. He said, "Mr. Brown, the French authorities are afraid of you.They say that you are a highly educated man, and that you are capableof doing much mischief in the country. Now you have your liberty in andabout my office, but you must not go off alone in any by-place, forthe French are a very excitable people, and they will watch every movethat you make, and would shoot you if they could find you alone in thebrush or where they could do it without being detected. Now, I havegot horses, and will accompany you to any place you may wish to go, tovisit your friends or to settle up what business you may have to do.But you must not be caught alone, for the French fear that you couldraise an army and cause much trouble. As your friends are in town, youand they had better have a consultation here in my office, and see whatyou can do."

Accordingly, the Elders came into the consul's office, and togetherwith him said the best thing they thought could be done was that Ishould go on board the little schooner Ravai, and that they getit ready for sea as quickly as possible, so as to leave port beforeany other vessel did, for if I did not go the fifty thousand francswould be forfeited. The schooner was the vessel owned by the Saintsof Tubuoi, and commanded by Captain B. F. Grouard; it was bound for acruise among the Tuamotu group of islands before going to the island ofRaivavai, four hundred miles southeast of Tahiti, and outside of theprotectorate. It was thought that we could make the cruise intended,and then go on to Raivavai without any danger of forfeiting the pledge.Conformably with this conclusion, the vessel was got ready, and on the17th we sailed from Papeete.

CHAPTER XXXI.

LEAVING TAHITI UNDER THE ORDER OP BANISHMENT—SUPPLY OF PROVISIONSEXHAUSTED—CAUGHT IN A CALM—SUFFERING FROM LACK OF FOOD—REACHTUBUOI—GO ASHORE UPON INVITATION OF THE QUEEN—SAIL FOR RAIVAVAI—MEETELDER PRATT THERE—LEFT ALONE ON THE ISLAND—SAVAGE CHARACTER OF THENATIVES—THE GOVERNOR A FRIEND—VISIT FROM HOUSE TO HOUSE—PEOPLEGENERALLY UNWILLING TO RECEIVE THE GOSPEL—COUNCIL DECIDES THAT I MUSTLEAVE THE ISLAND OR BE KILLED—A TIME OF EXCITEMENT—STORM PASSES FORAWHILE—BAPTIZE TWENTY PERSONS—NOTED CHIEF AND THE HEIRESS TO THETHRONE JOIN THE CHURCH—MORE BITTERNESS AND EXCITEMENT—TWO PARTIES OFNATIVES MEET TO ENGAGE IN BATTLE—MANAGE TO RECONCILE THEM AND PREVENTBLOODSHED—FURTHER THREATS AGAINST THE MORMONS—SOME CHURCH MEMBERSFEEL TO RETALIATE, BUT ARE RESTRAINED—PASSENGERS ARRIVE WITH FALSEAND SCANDALOUS STORIES ABOUT THE MORMONS—PERSECUTION INCREASES—THEFEW SAINTS ON THE ISLAND BECOME SORROWFUL AND DISCOURAGED—PROTESTANTMINISTERS ADVISE EXPULSION OF THE SAINTS—RENEWAL OF THE FAITH AND ZEALOF THE CHURCH MEMBERS.

AS we were leaving the Tahitian harbor we encountered a strongheadwind, and beat our way against wind and waves until our littleschooner became somewhat disabled. Provisions began to be scarce, andeverything seemed to be against us. Finally we changed our course,heading for Tubuoi. When we got within about eighty miles of thatisland, our food supply became exhausted; we had not one mouthful onboard, and were in a dead calm for some time. Then a gentle breezesprang up and wafted us to port, where we arrived on November 29th.Before this relief, however, we suffered considerably from lack of food.

I supposed that I had to remain on board the schooner until it wasready to sail for Raivavai; but when Pitamai Vehene, the queen, heardthat I had been banished she came off in her own canoe and invitedme to go ashore with her, saying, "This is my island, and the Frenchhave no right here. I will be responsible for all the trouble that mayarise." As the brethren and general authorities of the island thoughtit was safe to do so, I accepted the invitation, going ashore in thequeen's canoe, and remained on the island till December 8th. Then Iboarded the little schooner again, and we started for Raivavai, wherewe landed on the 9th, and found President Pratt in good health.

On December 10th, Elder Pratt sailed away in the schooner, leaving meto take his place in presiding over the interests of the Church on theisland. Brother Pratt's friends became my friends, and gave me food andshelter. There were eight Church members on the island; all the rest ofthe inhabitants, three hundred and eighty-three in number, opposed us,many of them being the most savage and rudest I had met—in fact, theywere scarce removed from cannibalism. Some of them did not hesitateto tell of their experiences in eating human flesh, and that they hadsacrificed infant children to their idols. They showed the coals beforetheir heathen gods, where they had roasted their babes. Some of themfelt proud to relate these things, saying it was in their heathenishdays, before the Gospel had come to their land, but now they thought itvery bad, and they had no disposition to repeat their evil deeds.

I was shown to the house of Governor Fate, who received me very kindly.He and his wife had received the Gospel on Anaa, and although he wasthe legal heir to the throne, as they called it, through his joiningthe Church he had lost much of his influence. But he was a very goodman, rendering me all the assistance in his power, while I visitedfrom house to house, trying to make the acquaintance of the people. Iwent to every home on the island, endeavoring to inform the people onthe Gospel, but they were unwilling to give heed, and treated me withmarked indifference, often passing by and looking as surly as mad bulls.

The island was not to exceed fourteen miles in circumference, its highand very rugged peaks penetrating the clouds, which nearly always werehanging over and about. The mountains were so steep as to defy all butthe wild goats, of which there were some hundreds among the craggedrocks. It was said that the beginning of the existence of these animalson the island was that a sea captain had turned three or four pairs ofthem loose some years before, and they had increased to hundreds.

Having satisfied my curiosity by traveling over and around the island,visiting the ancient places of worship and seeing the heathen gods andplaces of skulls and sacrifice, I again called at every house, tryingto become more friendly and sociable with the people; but the samestolid feelings still prevailed. I attended their meetings, told themmy business in the land, and asked the privilege of preaching to them.Part were favorable, and part were not. I baptized a few, and thatcaused much excitement.

A council was called to adopt some way by which the islanders couldget rid of Mormonism and the American plant, as they called me. Someproposed to fasten the "plant" on a log, and tow it out to sea, wherethe sharks would eat it, while others suggested burning or making aroast of me.

At last the matter was carried so far that it was decided that I mustleave the island or be killed. I learned that they had just aboutdecided on the latter course, so I hastened to go before the council totry and allay their feelings, if possible, and appease their wrath, butI found it utterly impossible to reason with them. My presence, insteadof having a conciliatory effect, created the wildest confusion. I wasconfronted by a native called Tabate, who was a very stout, heavy setman, and who exclaimed, "I will slay you!" At that moment my friend,Governor Fate, stepped between us, and some of the more peaceablydisposed took hold of Tabate, while my friends insisted that I leavethe house to save bloodshed, saying that Tabate was a very desperateman, but if I left the room they thought the council could restrainhim. Accordingly I withdrew with my friends. The council had a hot timeof it for awhile, but finally the more consistent party prevailed, sothat the matter passed over for the time being. Still, a bad feelingrankled in their bosoms, and I could hear threats that the more rabidparty was going to have a fat missionary for a roast.

Although this bitterness continued with many of the people, I baptizedsome twenty souls, and blessed several infants. I also administered tothe sick, and, as I can now remember, all were healed but one child,which died of hip disease, it being a mere skeleton when I was called.

Other councils were held to see what could be done to get rid of the"plant Mormonism, from America," before it spread over the island andbecame master. But the friends and relatives of those who belonged tothe Church would oppose any harsh measures, saying, "Wait until ourmissionaries of the English church come and we hear what they say."

Now, Elder Pratt had baptized one man who was seventy-five or eightyyears of age. He was one of the first born, and his feet had never beenwet in salt water. His name was Tauteni (thousand), because he hadslain so many people in war, and he could count skulls in his mori orplace of skulls, with the best of them. He was well acquainted with thetaste of human flesh; had been a great high priest of the natives intheir heathenish days, and was supposed to have great influence withthe spirits of men. He had a grand-daughter who was said to be theheir to the throne. This girl was brought forward by the old man forbaptism. He had reared her, and her parents being willing, I baptizedher. This created great excitement and another council was held, wherefeelings ran so high that it was very hard to conciliate our opponents.But the old man told them that it was his and her father's fault, andnot the missionary's, that she was baptized. The girl, whose name wasTeraa, also declared that it was by her wish and not mine that shebecame a member of the Church. This cooled them down a little, butoccasionally local difficulties would arise, and the natives would takesides and arm themselves for war. One time I heard the shrieks of thewomen, and the warwhoops of and commands given among the men.

Although, one day when I was stopping at a village called Tatake, Ihad heard that there was going to be a battle fought, such rumors wereso frequent that I did not pay much attention thereto till I heard thewarwhoops and shouts. Then I jumped up, ran out, and beheld thirty toforty men coming from the upper village, Anatomu. They were armed withmuskets, and were in their war costumes, dancing and going through themanoeuvres peculiar to the natives just before going into an action.At the same time another party was approaching from the inland villageof Atibona. These, too, were ready, and with their drums, whistles andshrieks made quite a showing. Still there were some among them inclinedto conciliation rather than war.

With my friends, I went out and plead with the two parties to bereconciled, and finally we prevailed so that both bodies of men retiredwithout fighting, and a few of each party met and shook hands, some ofboth parties seeming friendly to us for a time.

For a short time after this we had comparative quiet, yet threats cameabout the Mormons, and there was talk of taxing us for the supportof the Protestant church. Our brethren claimed rights in the schooland meeting houses, but were refused these; then they threatened toburst open the houses, and came to me to get my sanction to do so;but I could not consent to being a party to such a movement, knowingthat would give the enemy the pretext they wanted, in order to carryout their threats. My party was not pleased with my position, andthreatened to break in the houses anyway, and assert their rights tooccupancy. I told them that if they did I would disown them; that theycould not be my brethren if they indulged in anything of the kind, asit was for us to be on the side of peace and defense, and not to beaggressors. Finally they said they would obey my counsel. Then thingspassed along more smoothly for a time.

Soon a schooner came from the island of Ruruta, with about one hundredpassengers on board. They brought the alleged news that all theAmerican Elders had left Tubuoi, and were going home. These passengersalso seemed to have been well posted in all the old slanders about theChurch, and with many new ones about the Elders. These slanders wereindustriously circulated by the new comers, who said that the peopleof Tubuoi were glad that the Mormons had left their land. From thesestories, and the persecutions the Saints had endured on the island,the few Church members grew sorrowful and discouraged. When I wentfrom Anatomu to Tatake, I found two of the native brethren and twosisters very sad, and as soon as we met they gave vent to their pent-upfeelings, wept bitterly, and said that I had to leave the island, andthey intended to follow me, no matter where I went. I told them not tofear, and tried to pacify them as best I could.

At our next appointment for a meeting there were but five out ofthirty attended. This seemed strange, for there always had been afull attendance; but now everyone was sad and gloomy. The spirit ofmobocracy seemed to thrive on the filthy slanders that had come bythe Ruruta schooner. Meetings were called and threats made. Clouds ofdarkness lowered and filled the atmosphere; the spirit of death seemedto hover around, for the boisterousness of the people had given way toa sullen, murderous disposition, more to be dreaded than when there wasabundance of noise and threats.

At this time two young Protestant ministers came and made three or fourinflammatory speeches, telling the people that they had admitted a wolfinto the fold, and if they did not get rid of him the ministers wouldnot call again. "Drive him off, and pluck up that American plant, orit will overshadow your land, and control you," said they. Thus thewild and heathenish passion was fanned into a lively flame of renewedpersecution. Yet, strange to say, when the spirit of death seemed torest most heavily upon us, the brethren and sisters returned to me withrenewed zeal, and all but two men stood firm thereafter.

CHAPTER XXXII.

PEOPLE GATHER AT A FEAST, AND TO DECIDE WHAT TO DO WITH THEMORMONS—THREATS TO HAVE ROAST MISSIONARY—SAINTS HOLD PRAYER ANDTESTIMONY MEETING—KEPT AWAKE ALL NIGHT—COUNCIL OF NATIVES DECIDESTO ROAST AND EAT ME—FIRE IS BUILT—MEN SENT TO DRAG ME TO THECOUNCIL—PROMISES OF PRESIDENTS BRIGHAM YOUNG AND WILLARD RICHARDS COMETO MY MIND—ALL FEAR IS BANISHED—SAINTS AND THEIR ENEMIES ORDEREDTO SEPARATE—ALL BUT TWO MORMONS STAND BY ME—SUBLIME COURAGE OF ANATIVE AND HIS WIFE—THE CHARGE AGAINST ME—I APPEAL TO THE BIBLE,BUT OUR ENEMIES REFUSE TO BE GUIDED BY THE LAW OF GOD—NOTIFIED OFTHE DECISION THAT I AM TO BE BURNED—SPIRIT OF THE LORD RESTS UPON MEIN GREAT POWER, INSPIRING ME TO DEFY OUR ENEMIES—SPIRIT OF CONFUSIONENTERS OUR FOES—THEY QUARREL AND FIGHT WITH EACH OTHER—DIFFICULTY INRESTRAINING CHURCH MEMBERS—DELIVERANCE WHICH THE LORD WROUGHT OUT FORME—I AM ALLOWED TO PROCEED UNMOLESTED—MEET A MEMBER OF THE COUNCILWHICH CONDEMNED ME TO DEATH—HIS TESTIMONY THAT A PILLAR OF LIGHTDESCENDED FROM HEAVEN AND RESTED ON ME, FILLING THEM WITH FEAR—NO MOREANTI-MORMON COUNCILS—NATIVES SHOW NO DISPOSITION TO RECEIVE THEGOSPEL.

ABOUT the 5th of May, 1852, the whole people were called to assembleat the village of Tatake and prepare a feast, and at the same time todecide definitely what to do with the Mormon minister and his pipis(disciples). Everything was excitement. The young braves came armedwith muskets, shouting and yelling, saying they were going to have afat roast for tomorrow, while the old councillors, twenty-five orthirty in number, came with slow, quiet steps and grave countenances,and filed into the schoolhouse just at dark. Then the people gathered,loaded down with roast pig, and fruit, fish and poultry. They kindledfires and began shouting, singing and dancing.

Soon the young braves were dancing around the house that they were in;for by this time every member of the Church had come to one place.The mob seemed to be fully enthused with the spirit of murder, asthey shouted, "Tomorrow we will have a fat young missionary for aroast!" Just then they fired a salute, seemingly under the foundationor sill of the house—a frame building. Then they commenced to teardown the post and pole fence that enclosed the premises. This fence,together with other wood, was piled up in a heap, as people in timberedcountries stack timber to burn it off their land. Then the nativescovered the wood with coral rock, as if they were going to burn a limekiln. They kept up a continual howl all the night long, firing theirguns, singing their war songs, and burning their camp-fires.

While this was going on, we held prayer and testimony meeting, neversleeping a moment the whole night. Many times we could hear the crowdoutside boasting what a fine, fat missionary roast they were going tohave enanahe (tomorrow.)

Daylight came, and the village was all alive with people, as inAmerica on the Fourth of July, at a barbecue. Soon the feasting began.The council had been all night in deciding what they would do withthe Mormons and their minister. The provisions at the feast wereapportioned to each village according to its numbers, and subdividedamong the families, so that a full allowance was made for the Mormonpupu (party). They sent to me the portion of ten men, saying: "Here,this is for you, Iatobo (James), eat it and get fat for the roast,"laughing contemptuously as they did so. By this time the whole peoplewere in high glee, eating, drinking, talking, laughing and jeering, asif all hands were bent on pleasure only. When the feasting was over,all became silent, and it seemed as though everybody had gone to sleep.

By 1 o'clock p.m. all were astir again. Two great ruffians came intomy apartment, armed with long clubs. They said they had been sent toorder me before the council, and if I refused to come they were to dragme there. Everybody seemed to be on the qui vive. As quick as thought,the promises of President Brigham Young flashed through my mind; alsothe promise of Dr. Willard Richards, in which he told me, in the nameof the Lord God of Israel, that though men should seek my life, yet Ishould return in safety to the bosom of the Saints, having done goodand honor to myself and the Church and Kingdom of God. He also gave meinstructions what to do; this was when starting on my mission. The nextthought that came to my mind was: Have I forfeited those promises? Theanswer that came quickly from the Spirit was no; and this drove awayall fear. Not a doubt was left in my mind.

Without hesitation I arose and walked out to the beach, where thepeople had assembled, the Saints following me. We passed by the logheap to the assemblage, at the head of which stood twelve or fifteenstout, athletic, young braves, with hair cut close. They were strippednaked to their breechclouts, and were oiled. They stood with foldedarms, and certainly seemed formidable, although they were withoutweapons, for they had a fierce and savage look about them that must beseen to be realized in its effect.

As we came near, the man Tabate stepped out from the crowd and said,"All the Britons stand to the right hand with the sheep, and all theMormons stand to the left hand where the goats are." Everyone respondedto the order except two men from the Mormon party, who drew off tothemselves and were neutral. At that, one faithful Mormon man namedRivae and his wife with an eight months old babe in her arms, steppedforward, well knowing what the sentence was to be. This brave brothersaid, "If you burn this man," pointing to the writer, "you burn mefirst." His heroic wife stepped forward, holding her babe at arm'slength, and shouted, "I am a Mormon, and this baby is a Mormon, for'nits make lice,' and you will have to burn all of us, or Mormonismwill grow again." I had told the people the story of the massacre atHaun's Mill, Missouri, in which some of the mob shot the children whohad crept for safety under the bellows in the blacksmith shop, themurderers saying, as they butchered the innocents, "Nits will makelice"—Mormons in that instance.

Rivae and his wife was ordered to stand back, while as a prisoner I wascalled to take a position in the space between the two parties. As Iobeyed the command, I was confronted by Tabate, the spokesman or judge,who had been the chief promoter of all the trouble from the beginning.Said he: "Iatobo, you have caused the people of our land to sin byhaving them to travel more than a Sabbath day's journey on the Sabbath.You have also taught the people that God is a material God, and that isnot lawful to teach in our land." To this I answered, "Show me wherethe teaching is wrong from the Bible." At the same time I opened theBible. A strong and determined voice told me to shut the book, and putit up, for that was the law of God, and the decision of the landholdersand authorities was that I should be burned to death, and thus theywould rid the land of Mormonism.

Pointing to the left and rear of the prisoner, to the log heap, whichwas then at the zenith of its burning, with haughty demeanor and in anexulting voice, Tabate said, "Look there at that fire. It is made toconsume the flesh off of your bones." In that moment the Spirit of theLord rested mightily upon me, and I felt as though I could run througha troop and leap over a wall. "In the name of Israel's God," I said,"I defy ten of your best men, yea, the host of you, for I serve thatGod who delivered Daniel from the den of lions, and the three Hebrewchildren from the fiery furnace!"

Fire Prepared to Roast the Missionary—Sentenced to Death.

Dear reader, it is impossible for me to describe the power, the coolresignation, the unshaken confidence, and the might that overshadowedmy soul and body, that thrilled through every fibre of my existence.For there was absolutely not one particle of fear or tremor in mywhole being. But I did feel thankful for that great and marvelousdeliverance, because in the very moment that I defied the host thespirit of division rested upon the judge who had passed the sentence,his counselors, and the executioners, insomuch that the counselorsfaced the executioners, and they grappled with each other in a sharptussle. From that ensued a fight, until the whole people were mixed upin it.

Even two of our old tottering Mormons, Tautene and Hauty, came in withtheir clubs, and were so enraged that they actually champed theirteeth together till the froth filled the corners of their mouths, asI have seen it with mad dogs. Both of them had been great warriorsin their time, and could boast of having eaten human flesh, but atthis time they were so old and feeble that I took each of them bythe arms and forced them from the fight into the house, where I hadordered all the Mormons to go. I told them to stay in the house or Iwould excommunicate them from the Church. As they seemed to be almostungovernable, I gave Fute, a priest and a stout man, a club, and toldhim to keep them in the house if he had to knock them down to do it,while I went back to the battleground, picked up my Bible and hat, andreturned to find my party reconciled to their fate, and feeling morelike rejoicing than fighting. In an effort to free himself from herclinging embrace Hauty had struck his wife with a club. This was beforeI had got hold of him. She was trying to keep him out of the melee. Thewoman was very lame for weeks after receiving the blow.

During all this time our enemies quarreled and fought with clubsand stones, pulled hair and screamed. They did not cease fightingtill sundown. Then, with many sore heads, and more sore limbs, theydispersed, and I doubt very much if the majority of them knew what theyhad been fighting for. After they left, a feeling of quiet and safetypervaded the village, especially in and about our residence, such aswe had not before known on the island, and for weeks everything wasstrangely peaceful. People who once seemed surly and defiant, now hada tame and subdued expression in their countenances, and appeared toprefer passing by unnoticed rather than otherwise.

Some two months later, I was traveling alone in the timber, and at ashort turn in the road I chanced to meet one of the old counselors whodecided that I should be burned. We were close together before we saweach other. At sight of me he turned and ran as hard as he could, andI, without any particular object in view, gave chase and ran him down.I seized him by the neck, and asked why he ran from me and why he wasafraid of me. Said he: "Your God is a God of power, and I was afraidto meet His servant." I inquired how he knew that my God was a God ofpower, and why they had not burned me when they had decided to do so.He answered: "At the moment that you defied us there was a brilliantlight, or pillar of fire, bore down close over your head. It was asbright as the sun. We remembered reading in the Bible about Elijahcalling fire down from heaven so that it consumed the captains andtheir fifties, and we thought that you had prayed to your God of power,and that He had sent that fire to burn us and our people if we harmedyou. The young men did not see the light. They were going to burn you,and we tried to stop them. So we got into a fight. Now we all know thatyou are a true servant of God, and we do not like to meet you, out offear."

From what I was able to learn, that feeling was shared by the wholecommunity, and I was treated with great respect ever afterwards. Ifelt freer and safer when alone than ever before. Indeed, there neverwas another council meeting called to devise a way to get rid of theMormons from that island, while I remained there. But for all that, theislanders did not want to learn the Gospel. Yet ever afterward, whenthey feasted I was always remembered with a very liberal portion ofthe very best they had. I do not remember baptizing another soul thereafter that event. There I remained, and part of the time I fished, alsohunted the wild chickens that abounded in the mountains—fowls of thecommon Dominique variety, which had grown wild in the fastnesses of thehills, and could fly equal to the sagehen or prairie chicken.

CHAPTER XXXIII.

LONG TIME WITHOUT NEWS FROM HOME—LETTER FROM ELDER B. F.GROUARD—RELEASED FROM MY MISSIONARY LABORS IN THE ISLANDS—LITTLEOPPORTUNITY TO LEAVE RAIVAVAI—NATIVES BUILD A SCHOONER—FAST ANDPRAY TO LEARN WHETHER I SHOULD SAIL ON THE VESSEL—THE ANSWER—SAILFOR RAPIA—DRIVEN BACK TO RAIVAVAI—MAKE A NEW START—ARRIVE ATRAPIA—RIDICULOUS IDEA OF THE PEOPLE CONCERNING A MORMON ELDER—I AMFORBIDDEN TO GO ASHORE, ON PAIN OF DEATH—FEELING IS MODIFIED SOMEWHAT,AND I GO ASHORE—BATTLE BETWEEN THE NATIVES—AN OLD MAN GIVES MEFOOD—ATTEND A MEETING, GET PERMISSION TO SPEAK A FEW WORDS AND AMORDERED FROM THE ISLAND—INCREASE OF SENTIMENT OF TOLERATION—INVITEDTO SUPPER AT THE GOVERNOR'S—STRANGE CUSTOM OF WOMEN WAITING ONMEN—RATHER THAN FOLLOW IT, I SUBMIT TO BEING CALLED A HEATHEN.

WHEN I had spent seven months alone on the island of Raivavai, withoutany news from the outer world or perhaps it would be more proper tosay inner world—for this island and Rapia are as near out of theworld as any portion of it can be—I began to wonder when I could hearsome tidings of the brethren on the other islands. I had not had anopportunity to leave Raivavai in all the time that I had been there;nor did I have the slightest idea when it would be possible for meto return to the land of my nativity, for the natives told me thatwithin their memory there had been seven years at a time when they hadnot so much as seen a sail, and it was not infrequent for from one tothree years to pass without a vessel calling. Therefore it will not bethought strange when I say that the time became very monotonous.

Here is an extract from a letter received just before I did leave theisland; it was from Elder B. F. Grouard, counselor to President Prattin the presidency of the mission, and bears date of Papeete, Tahiti,April 18, 1852:

"DEAR BROTHER JAMES:—I embrace the present opportunity of writing youa line, perhaps for the last time before leaving for California, thoughI hope we may be able to arrange matters so that you will be permittedto come here and make one of our party across. The governor is nowabsent, down at Raiatea, consequently nothing can be done about yourcase until he returns. * * * *

"Wednesday, 21st.—Mr. Kelly has sent for you on his ownresponsibility. You must be careful and not go on shore on theprotectorate islands, but be sure and come, or rather, he hasauthorized me to send for you.

"I have the honor to be, your brother in Christ, and fellow laborer inthe Gospel,

B. F. GROUARD."

From this it will be seen that I was released from further labors inthat mission. I also was without any means in sight to get away fromthe land that had been so fruitful of troubles to me. It is true thatthe natives had a schooner of twenty or twenty-five tons burden incourse of construction, but they were so uncertain and tardy in theirmovements that there was really no dependence to be placed in anythingof the kind that they undertook. Indeed, it was doubtful whether theywould complete the vessel at all, though six or eight weeks was ampletime in which to finish it. Besides, they were liable to get into aquarrel that would cause delay for many months. Again, so frail wasthe boat that it did not seem that it ever could be safe to go to sea.Nearly every stave and brace was made from the bark of the buru tree,and twisted by hand. The anchor was a chunk of wood with old scraps ofiron spiked on to it, and for a chain the same kind of material wasused as for the stays and braces. The galley was only a square box oftwo and a half feet, filled with soil and tied down to the deck with abark rope; and as to the helm, it had to be held by hand, taking two orthree men to manage it, especially in rough weather. The compass wasno better than a tin plate; in fact, it could not be of any servicewhatever—and the sails were almost rotten. But at last the boat waslaunched, and leaked so badly that it did not seem possible to make itof service; but the natives persevered and baled it out, and it wassoaked up until they considered it safe.

This boat being built, it seemed to offer a possible means for me tosee white men's land again. There was no one for me to advise with, thevery men who had planned my destruction being the owners and mastersof the craft. The voyage they anticipated taking was said by them tobe seven hundred miles, to the island of Rapia, and from thence a likedistance to Tahiti, in all fourteen hundred miles. The food and freshwater supply was also very uncertain. The water had to be carried inlarge gourds and cocoanuts. Nor was this all that had to be considered.In those parts there are dense fogs and rainstorms, for days together,so that navigation is very hazardous where there is only the sun, moon,and stars to depend upon, and these obscured.

The reader will perceive the gravity of the situation that confrontedthe writer when he came to decide what to do. As the time drew near forthe boat's departure, I retired to a lonely place in the woods, andthere fasted and prayed for three days, fasting all the time and goingto my retreat to pray as often in the three days as I thought proper.This was done in order to ascertain from the divine Source whether ornot I should take the risk of going on that vessel at that time. Theanswer came plain and distinct to my understanding, though not in wordsto the natural senses, yet to my entire satisfaction that all would bewell if I went. From that moment I hungered and thirsted, but had notdone so before in all the time that I had fasted.

Accordingly, on September 22, 1852, I engaged passage on the Raivavaischooner, bound for Rapia. On the 23rd I went aboard, and we sailedout, but some of the rigging gave way, and we were bound to return forrepairs. On the 24th we tried again, passing out of the harbor with alight breeze, at 5 o'clock a.m. There were sixty-two souls on board,all seasick. On the 26th and 27th there was a dead calm. At daylighton the 28th we found ourselves on the opposite side of the island andvery near it, surrounded by hundreds of great whales. Our navigatorswere so confused that they did not know their own island until theywent ashore. Again the rigging gave way, and we had to put into port torepair it and to replenish our food supply.

On October 4th we sailed once more, and with a strong and fair wind onthe 9th we reached the island of Rapia, which has a high and abruptcoast with a good harbor, but a very narrow passage thereto, in whichwe were hailed by a fisherman who inquired about the white man onboard. When the crew told him it was a Mormon Elder, he hastened to theshore, ran to the village and told the people that a Mormon Elder wason the schooner. The people had never seen a Mormon, but had heard themost ridiculous stories about us. They became excited, and frightenedas well, for they had heard that Mormons had cloven feet and shellson their backs, and were some kind of mongrel between man and beast.They also had been told that the Mormons were so lustful that it wasvery difficult for the females to escape from them. This being theonly information the people had about the Latter-day Saints, it wasno wonder that the men armed themselves with muskets and fish spears,and came to the landing or lay in ambush, the females keeping at arespectful distance, while the more brave and fearless ventured to comeon board, inspect the "animal," and forbid him to set his foot on shoreon pain of death. Strange as this statement of affairs may appear, itis nevertheless true.

At length a number of the people came on board and spied around as ifto discover the peculiar features of a Mormon Elder, and they, withmy friends, thought that possibly it was safe for me to go ashore;accordingly I went in the first canoe. As we neared the landing, six orseven men, some with muskets and some with fishing spears, rose up outof the brush and tall grass, and peeked and pried, as they afterwardssaid, to discern the cloven foot. As they could not discover thedeformities which they had expected to find, they said, "Why, he lookslike any other white man or minister; we do not want to kill him."There were others who, however, acted very surly, and would not speaknor shake hands, but told my friends that I must leave their island orI would be killed. Finally we were permitted to go up to the village,where the people all ran together to see the stranger. None daredinvite him into their houses, so he took his seat out on a log, whilethey feasted. His friends joined with the feasting parties, thinkingit would be better for him if they were sociable with the people andacquainted them with the supposed monster's customs and habits, as alsowith what he had been teaching the people.

Two weeks before we landed, the inhabitants of this village had had abattle with the people of another village across the island, and someof both parties had been killed, while others were yet suffering fromtheir wounds. This, I suppose, had something to do with the spirit ofmurder and bloodshed that hung so thickly around the place. When thepeople finished feasting, one old man brought me some food on a bananaleaf, and then slipped away as if he did not wish anybody to see him.To me it seemed a case of root hog, or die, or at least it was to eator starve, so the kind offer was thankfully received. I found theadmonition of Paul, wherein he said, eat what is set before you, andask no questions, for conscience, sake appropriate in this case.

The bell was soon rung for meeting, and the people quickly cametogether. I met with them, and at the conclusion of their servicesasked the privilege of acquainting them with my business in theircountry; for myself and native friends were the first Mormons who hadever been there, and to save the necessity of anyone else coming I feltit my bounden duty to offer them the Gospel, as it has to be preachedin every land and to every people. I succeeded in saying a few words,and received for my pains an order from the presiding priest to go outof the house and leave the island.

Although many of the people seemed to sanction the course of thepriest, there were a few who did not seem to favor it; but to savetrouble I left the house. The people then began to discuss the orderand to question its justice, as we had been mild and made no display ofobstinacy. At last they concluded that the Mormon was not quite so badas he had been represented, and that he might come into the governor'sand have supper at a table which the Protestant ministers had furnishedfor their own accommodation, and where they had left some dishes and achair; so I was comfortably seated at the table and the food broughton. Quite a handsome young girl of about sixteen stood by the table,and as soon as a blessing was asked, she, with her fingers, tore theroasted chicken to pieces, stripped the flesh from off the bones, andheld this to my mouth, saying, "There!"

I drew back a little, as that was so strange a custom that I did notappreciate it. The girl was quite dark complexioned, and some oneobserved, "She is so dark that he thinks she is dirty. Let her get somesoap and wash before him, and then see if he will eat." As the peopleseemed so strange in their actions, I thought there was some trick tobe played, so I waited until she had washed her hands and, in obedienceto orders, stepped up, saying that her hands were clean, "Look, that ismy color, and not dirt." Still I felt dubious about taking the bait.Then she was told to step back, and another young lady was called for.This one was quite fair, with rather light brown or auburn hair. Theysaid "Now he will eat, for he will think she is white," but I stillrefused the courtesy. Then some one who was standing by said, "Let himfeed himself, like a heathen." At this the master of ceremonies said,"Why do you not eat?" I tried to explain to them that it seemed to meto be wrong to require so much of the females—that they should preparethe food and then stand or sit by and put it into a man's mouth."Well," said he, "she was the first to sin, and she ought to wait onthe man."

At this an old man who lay flat on his stomach with the Bible beforehim, opened the book to where Paul said that when he was in Rome he didas the Romans did. The old man had his hair bushed, and, apparently,the very brand of heathenism in his face. I would have thought as muchof looking on a brush heap or in a muskrat house for intelligence as tohave anticipated anything smart from him. He said, "My friend, do youbelieve in the Bible?" I said, "Yes, and it is good to do as it says.""Then," said he, "you are a liar; for Paul said that when he was inRome he did as the Romans did, and now you are in Rapia you will not doas the Rapians do; for it is our way for the women to put the food intoour mouths. That is the way we do in this land."

Sure enough, I learned that this was true; for when the meal is readyit is brought into the room in baskets, and the male portion of thehousehold get down on their hands and knees, while the females pickthe bones from the fish, pork or poultry, as the case may be, and withtheir fingers put the flesh into their masters' mouths. To concludewith, the woman dips her hand into a dish of water, and wipes hismouth. Then he moves away, and the wife and daughter take the scraps,or what may be left. It is considered as great a shame on that islandfor a man to put food into his mouth as it is in China for a Mongolianto have his queue cut off. But to me it seemed so ridiculous that mystay there was too short to make it seem even human. I did not adoptthe custom, preferring to be called a heathen by those who did practiceit.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

DETERMINE TO PREACH TO THE PEOPLE—REFUSED A HOUSE—HOLD AN OPEN-AIRMEETING—STRANGE CONGREGATION—SIX OTHER MEETINGS—VISIT A NATIVEKING—HE COMMANDS ME TO LEAVE—I DO SO IN ORDER TO AVOID BEING PUTTO DEATH—WATERMELONS AND OTHER VEGETABLES—NATIVE TRADITION OF THEPEOPLING OF THE ISLANDS—VISIT OF A PROTESTANT MINISTER—SAIL FORTAHITI—IN A HEAVY STORM—PRAYERS BY FRIGHTENED NATIVES—I AM ASKED TOPRAY WITH THEM, BUT DECLINE TO FOLLOW THEIR METHODS—REACH THE HARBOROF PAPEETE—AMERICAN CONSUL OBTAINS PERMISSION FOR ME TO LAND—GOTO WORK WITH A CARPENTER—WARNED NOT TO BE ALONE LEST I SHOULD BEKILLED—WATCHED BY GEN D' ARMES—TROUBLE AT ANAA, AND ARREST OF NATIVEMORMONS—THESE ARE BROUGHT TO PAPEETE—HOW THEY GOT LETTERS TO ME, ANDTHEIR REPLIES—MY FORMER PERSECUTORS OF RAIVAVAI COME TO ME FOR ADVICE,AND I RETURN GOOD FOR EVIL.

AS I felt the great need of reform among the people of Rapia, I triedagain to get the privilege of preaching to them in their house, butfound them unyielding on that point. There were three native brethrenand their wives who had come with me. I was impressed that we oughtto make yet another trial to leave our testimony with the islanders,so we went out by the side of their meeting house, which was a framebuilding set up on blocks some eighteen inches or two feet from theground, the dirt floor being thatched with dry grass. We stood withinten feet of the house and commenced to sing. Before we were ready toread our text, it seemed that everybody in the village had come around,but not in the ordinary way. They crowded into the meeting house andsome filled the windows, while others lay down and poked their headsout under the sills of the house; still others got down on their handsand knees some five or six rods off and crawled along through theshrubbery, taking hold of the brush as they drew near, lying flat downand drawing themselves along, taking sticks and poking the weeds asideso they could get a better view. With this most singular congregationbefore us, and the most perfect order (for it seemed as if there wasnot a whisper,) we read a chapter in the Bible—the third of Matthew,I believe—then preached on faith, repentance, and baptism for theremission of sins. At the dismissal of our services the whole assemblywithdrew, and after that I had lots of food, such as it was.

We held seven meetings on that little fragment of terra firma, andvisited the king in the west village. We found the royal personage athome, sitting Indian fashion on his couch, half naked. He appeared tobe a man of unusually strong character, very surly, and did not wantto talk. When I attempted to tell him the object of my mission tohis country, his neck swelled out, and he began blowing through hisnostrils like a mad bull. He said, "You leave my country." By this timemy native friends discovered that danger was gathering around us, andtold me that we must not delay one moment, but must get away as quicklyas possible, for that village had suffered defeat at the hands of thepeople of the other village, and we could not be friendly with the kingand his followers if we were to the others.

We got away, and afterwards it developed that my friends had foreseena peril that I had not fully understood, for when the king said we hadbetter get away from his country, that was his ultimatum, and if we hadremained longer every one of us would have been slain, as the peoplewere preparing for the slaughter.

On our retreat I observed a castor oil bean tree loaded with beans.Its trunk was as large as a man's body. I began to inspect it when myfriends called out, "Hurry up, or we will every one be killed," so wehastened to more friendly and hospitable parts, where we came acrossa large gourd, or calabash vine, and a watermelon patch. Never havingseen anything of the kind on any other island where I had been, myinquisitive propensities were set to work ascertaining how those thingscame there. Were they a spontaneous growth? If not, where did they comefrom, since this little island is so remote from all others, and thenatives tell me that white men seldom visit them? I inquired of thepeople where they got the seed of the vegetables named. "Why," saidthey, "our forefathers brought them here."

"Where did they come from?"

The reply was, "From the rising of the sun." On hearing this, I askedfrom what country, and was answered, "We do not know. It was a bigland, so big they did not know its boundary. It was a land of food, andof great forests of big trees, and great fresh waters that were filledwith fish."

I next inquired, "How came they to leave such a good land?" Theresponse was in these words: "We do not know, only they said they gotlost in the fog, and were several days without seeing the sun. Thenthe strong winds came and blew them over here, and their vessel waswrecked on this island. They never could get back to the lands of theirforefathers, so they stayed here. They increased so fast that all couldnot live on this land, so they made canoes and tried to get back, butthe winds were against them, that they were carried away to the west,and for a long time those left here supposed the others were lost inthe sea; but after a time it was learned that there were other landswhere the sun goes down. Then our people made canoes and went to them,and we think that is the way these islands became peopled, for they arethe same kind of people as ourselves."

"Have you any other knowledge of your forefathers?"

"No, we do not know anything but that which the fathers have said. Theyused to say that if they could get back to their fatherland they couldfind metal to make fish spears and hooks with. When the first whitemen's ship came in sight we tried to go to it, thinking we could getsome fishing tackle therefrom. We thought that vessel must have comefrom our fathers' land. But the wind was so strong we could not get tothe ship, and it was a long time before another one came. Finally wereached one, and got such things as our fathers had told us about."

Read the Book of Mormon, page 427, 63d chapter, 5th to 9th verses. Wasthe ship that Hagoth built the same that was wrecked on the island ofRapia, South Pacific Ocean, about 25 deg. south latitude, and, as nearas I can find out from French charts, time reckoned from Paris, France,in longitude 140 west?

The reader may form his own conclusions, as I return to my narrativeof our stay on the island. When we had returned from our visit to thesurly king, one man by the name of Mesearee opened his house for us tohold meeting in, but very few attended with us.

October 17th, the bark John Williams called with one Mr. Platt,a Protestant minister, on board. This clergyman was a man of fineaddress. He came ashore and preached, then sprinkled all the infantchildren of the village. Though very pleasant, he refused to talk withme in the Tahitian language, saying that if we did so on the Scripturesit would cause a split among the people. I insisted that he show thenatives the scripture for his mode of baptism, but he declined to dothat, and boarded his vessel and sailed away.

October 27, 1852, we sailed for Tahiti. On the 29th we encountered avery heavy storm, so severe that we lost all of our sails, and had tolash two of our strong men on deck with slack rope so that they mightfasten down the hatch and companion ways. The rest of us had to gobelow, for the sea was lashed into a foamy mass as white as snow. Itdid not seem possible for us to survive the terrible ordeal. As inalmost all similar cases, the wicked will pray—that is in times ofgreat danger, if at no other time—so the natives who went below, somefifty-nine in number, divided themselves into three praying parties.One of these occupied the bow, one stationed itself amidships, and onewas in the stern of the vessel. Then a man in one party would pray atthe top of his voice, and so on with each party in turn. Thus theyprayed, passing the word back and forth, as long as the sea raged inits fury.

In all of our travels together, those in charge of the vessel had neverhonored me with a request to attend prayers, or once called me to ask ablessing, but now, in our great peril, one of the old priests found hisway in the dense darkness to my berth, and said: "Iatobo, you pray toyour God of power, to spare us, that we may not die in this great sea."I told him no, for I had done my praying on land, before I had boardedthe schooner, and now I had all that I could do to hold myself in theberth, that I might not be thrown out and killed. He returned witha grunt, and commanded the rest to pray. These conditions continuedfor six or seven hours, when the wind abated, and the little schoonerpitched and rolled as if she would go to the bottom.

November 1, 1852, we sighted a reef called Hereheretue. On the 9thwe came in view of Metia, and on the 10th we went into the harbor ofPapeete, Tahiti. It was on the 11th when, through the interventionof Mr. Kelly, American consul, I got permission to land. The samegentleman gave me an introduction to one Charles Hill, a carpenter,who was rather a backslider from the Mormon Church. Still, he was veryfriendly, and said that if I would assist him in carpenter work hewould board and lodge me until I could get a passage home. Mr. Kellycounseled me not to be alone anywhere, as a watch would be kept over meevery minute I was on the island. He said he would not be responsibleif I preached or traveled out of the town, as I was liable to be shotthe moment that I was found alone. Said he, "The French are more bittertowards you than ever. They seem to think you would turn everythingupside down if you were allowed to run at large. I have never seenthem so excited over anything as they are about you. They are actuallyafraid of you, for fear that if you were permitted to go among thepeople again they would revolt at once, and there would be anotherwar." He also said that he would arrange matters so that I could gowith Mr. Hill to and from his work, and if we kept close together, hethought it all safe, as Mr. Hill was well known; but that I had betterstop in his office till he could see the governor, and I could go outto Mr. Hill's in the evening with him, as he lived in the suburbs ofthe town. Mr. Kelly also told me there had been more trouble at Anaa,and a number of our people from there were in prison on Tahiti; andfurther, that I was held responsible for all the trouble on that island.

It having been arranged for me to stop with Mr. Hill, he called forme in the evening, and next morning I went to work with him at hisbusiness. In the meantime the news of my arrival on Tahiti spread veryfast, and the sons of the prisoners from Anaa, who had followed theirparents in disguise, and could visit the prisoners one at a time, putpencil and paper into their hands on the sly, so that they could writeto me. Five or six of the young men dressed themselves as the regular"toughs" of the town, and met Mr. Hill and me, one of them bearing anote in his hand. When they got near us they began to dance and singin a very rude manner, acting as if they would not give any of theroad to us. Then they pushed the one with the note against me, andas he passed it into my hand the rest circled clear around so as toobscure me from two gen d' armes who followed us day and night. Thenthe young men would shout and laugh as if they had done it to annoy mein particular. Thus I received letters from the natives. The young menwould meet us again, and I would pass to them the answers, while theywould appear to the looker-on to be running against me purposely, toinsult and annoy me. Sometimes I would try to show my displeasure byscolding at them. In this way a regular correspondence was carried onbetween the unfortunate prisoners and myself, during my stay. In thatmanner I learned that there were twenty-three of them in prison, therebeing ten Elders, five Priests, four Teachers and four Deacons. On the12th there were eight more prisoners brought from the island of Anaa,six brethren and two sisters. All of the thirty-one were put to work onthe steep side of a mountain, to make a road up to a fort. The hillsidewas so steep that some of them fell and were hurt quite seriously.Sometimes the prisoners were beaten by the guards that attended them.Their provisions were very poor, and they had not even enough of that.

I will again mention my former persecutors of the island of Raivavai,with whom I traveled to Tahiti, for they came to me in great trouble,and said their schooner had been so badly damaged in the storm we hadbeen in that the French had condemned it, and would not allow them togo to sea again. They were four hundred miles from home, without money,provisions or friends. They very humbly asked my advice, which I gavefreely, telling them to state their case to the French authorities,and these would be bound to find a way to have them returned home andgive them support until they did so. This pleased them very much; theyseemed to appreciate the counsel of one whom they had sat in judgmentand helped to pass sentence upon, ordering him to be burned. Doubtlesssome of them had aided in gathering the fuel to make the fire for theburning. I condoled with them as much as the conditions would admitof; and when I came to part with them they seemed to feel, and in factsaid, that I had been a true friend to them. They wept as though theywere my near relatives. Thus returning good for evil brought blessings.

CHAPTER XXXV.

WATCHED CLOSELY BY GEN D' ARMES—EXPERIENCE WHEN AT PRAYER—TAKE DINNERWITH REV. MR. HOWE—DINING WITH A CATHOLIC BISHOP—IMPATIENCE OF THEGOVERNOR—LEAVE TAHITI ON THE ABYSSINIA—CURIOSITY OF PASSENGERS ANDSAILORS—DIFFICULTY IN GETTING OUT OF THE HARBOR—HEAR OF MORE TROUBLEAT ANAA—CAPTAIN'S COMMENT ON MORMON BOOKS—A WATERSPOUT—CROSSINGTHE EQUATOR—ENCOUNTER A TERRIBLE STORM—A TIDAL WAVE—SHIP SPRINGS ALEAK—PANIC ON BOARD—ALL BANDS TO THE PUMPS—STOPPING A LEAK—FAIRWEATHER AGAIN.

SO far as my own conduct was concerned, now that I was again onthe island of Tahiti, I continued with Mr. Hill. Two gen d' armesfollowed us or hung around where we were at work all day, and at nighttramped about the house where we lived. At daylight the night guardsdisappeared in the brush. One morning I stepped three or four rods intothe brush, for my morning devotions, and as I was engaged with my eyesclosed I heard a rustling in the leaves. Supposing it was the hogs thatran around there, I paid no attention until I was through, when I sawtwo officers standing within fifteen feet of and in front of me, gazingstraight into my face. They were heavily armed, but did not interferewith me, so I returned to the house, while they mounted the fence andsat there till we went to work, when they followed us up as usual.

During this time I met with Mr. Howe, the presiding official of theProtestant mission on the islands. He appeared to feel very sympathetictoward me, and invited me to take dinner with him and his good oldlady. I accepted the invitation, and he made me a present of a TahitianBible, also of a Tahitian and English dictionary. He is the same Mr.Howe spoken of before, when he was so radically opposed to me, butnow he seemed charitable and kind. After I left his house, and waspassing along in sight of the Catholic bishop's office, the bishopsent a servant after me, inviting me in to dine and wine. Accordingly,I called, finding him a very polite gentleman. He met me at the doorof his library, took me by the hand and courteously led me to a seat,then set out some wine, saying he was very sorry that he had but oneglass of wine in the room, though he set out two glasses, but pouredall the wine into one, which he presented to me. At that moment thesaying of the Lord Jesus came to my mind, to be harmless as doves butwise as serpents. I adopted as much French politeness as I was capableof, divided the wine into the two glasses, presented him the one withthe most wine in, telling him that I could not think of drinkingalone—that he must join me or I should decline his very kind offer. Ithought that if he could stand to drink the largest half of the wine, Icould afford to try the least half, and as I preferred him to drink hisfirst, I delayed until he had swallowed it, when I drank to his health.We had a sociable chat, and he insisted on my stopping to supper, whenhe would have plenty of wine. I told him I could not, as my attendants,the gen d' armes, were waiting patiently for me. He next presentedme two books, telling me that they would show how the priesthood haddescended from Peter down to the present pope. The books being in theFrench language, were of no use to me, so I bade him good-bye.

I learned from Mr. Kelly that the governor was impatient at my stayon the island, so I disposed of everything that I could spare, raisedsixty dollars thereby, and prepared to sail on the English shipAbyssinia, from Sydney, Australia, and commanded by Captain GeorgeGordon.

November 24, 1852, I boarded the Abyssinia, paying sixty dollarssteerage passage to San Francisco, California. When I got on the deck,the seamen and some of the passengers crowded around me, and stared atme as if I had been a wild beast. When I saluted them with, "Gentlemen,how are you?" they looked at each other as much as to say, "Shall wereturn the compliment?" At last one of the sailors took off his hat,made a bow, and said, "Please sir, can you speak English?" I answered,"Yes, sir, a little." The next question was, "And are you a MormonElder?" My reply was, "Yes," and was followed with, "Well, pardon me,but I thought a Mormon Elder had a cloven foot and a shell on his back,and I expected that you would be brought aboard in a case, as I havebeen told that the Mormons were a kind of half beast, fierce, and wild."

Some of the others said that they had had the same ideas. A third partyexclaimed, "What d—d lies they have told us! We have been anxiousto see this Elder ever since we heard there was one coming on board,and we thought to see you brought in a big cage. We cannot see anydifference in you and common men." So much for wild and slanderousstories afloat in those days and in that part of the world.

Shortly the vessel was got under way, but just as we entered thepassage the wind slackened so that we came very near being crushedagainst the reef. Five boats from a French warship came to our aid, aswe had cast anchor to save ourselves, and the Frenchmen towed us backto a safe location, where we lay until the 26th.

We tried it again on the 27th, and as we passed out of the harbor wewent close to the French warship, which was weighing anchor. On thedeck stood the Catholic bishop, who held up his cross and made signs.He said there was trouble in Anaa again, and he was going there.

After we sailed, the captain of the Abyssinia asked me to lendhim some books on Mormonism. I let him take the Book of Mormon andthe Doctrine and Covenants. He returned them on the 29th, saying,"I believe the books and your prayers have made me sick." He didnot trouble me any more about Mormonism, yet treated me with properrespect, as a rule.

There were several male and female passengers on board, a portion ofthe latter being of the lewd class, judging from their actions; andthe former were not much better. I loaned all the books that I had topassengers and seamen. Nearly all on board treated me in a courteousmanner.

On November 30th a waterspout passed close to our ship, causing muchexcitement. Its roar was frightful, as it carried a very great columnof water up into the air, and spread it out into the clouds like awhirlwind on land, but on so much larger scale as to be a dread toseamen.

December 1st we sighted what the captain called Flint's Island. It waslarge and high, and appeared to be inhabited. On the 10th we crossedthe equator, where the seamen had some sport at the expense of severalof the passengers who had not crossed it before. They made preparationsfor Neptune, and told many stories of his pranks with those who daredcross his path without paying penance, or treating the ship's crew.

On the 20th we encountered a terrific storm, which carried away most ofour sail, and left us badly damaged. On Christmas day we had somethinglike a tidal wave in a calm sea. The wave was so great that it sweptaway the main topgallant sail and the jib boom. Two seamen were carriedbelow for dead. The ship sprung a leak in the bow, and the peril becameso great that all the seamen and the male passengers were called tolend a hand. It being in the night, the consternation was so intensethat passengers were on the deck in their night clothes, screaming.Some shouted to pray, and others did pray with all the fervor at theircommand, especially when the carpenter, reporting that the vesselwas parting in her beams, called for men to turn the windlass, andfor kettles of hot tar, blankets, caulking, chisels, and anything tomake repairs. As the wind began to freshen, the boat headed beforeit, without any regard to course. The next order was, "Down with thehatches!"

"Aye, aye, sir."

"Then sound her."

"Aye, sir."

"How is she?"

"Gaining water, sir."

It was hurry to the pumps, and the carpenter was asked, "How is she?"

"All right, sir."

"Heave away at the windlass! Keep the pumps going!"

The carpenter had been pinning timber across the breach, and withwindlass power preventing if possible the seam from spreading any moreuntil he could make it safe. Blankets were dipped in hot tar and driveninto the parting. With these efforts and by keeping the pumps goingsteadily for eight hours, the boat was partly freed from the rollingsea, and at length was patched up and put on her course. The captainthen said that his greatest fear had been that, as his cargo was coal,the friction of the fuel and the water coming in below would cause thecargo to take fire. When we got righted and on our course, we had lightwinds, and cold and wet weather until the voyage was ended.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

ARRIVE AT SAN FRANCISCO—A WRECKED SHIP—THE ABYSSINIACONDEMNED—GATHERING WRECKAGE—DRUNKEN SAILORS—MY TRUNK HELD FORHOSPITAL FEES—GO ASHORE, WHERE ALL IS CHANGED AND STRANGE—MYDILAPIDATED APPEARANCE—SEEK GUIDANCE OF THE LORD—WANDERALMOST IN DESPAIR—MEET AN OLD FRIEND—FIND A HOME—MY TRUNKRELEASED—MEET ELDERS GOING ON MISSIONS—WELL TREATED BY SAINTS ANDSTRANGERS—PROVIDENCES OF THE LORD—OUTWARD-BOUND ELDERS ENTRUST MONEYTO ME FOR THEIR FAMILIES—ENGAGE TO CARRY MAIL TO LOS ANGELES—ON ASTEAMER FOR SAN PEDRO—TAKEN SEVERELY ILL.

ON January 8th, 1853, we passed into the bay of San Francisco, wherewe came close to a big New York clipper ship, fast on a rock in thepassage. While we were looking at the vessel, the tide came in andlifted it up; then it dropped back and was smashed as if it were only amatchbox. Luckily, the ship had been there long enough to be surroundedby boats sufficient to save the passengers, and perhaps their baggage.

We soon dropped anchor from our dismantled bark, which, as I afterwardslearned, was condemned as being unseaworthy, and never was allowedto go to sea again. The seamen on our vessel went to picking up thewreckage from the clipper ship. They chanced to catch a barrel ofwhisky, when the captain ordered it to be carried below. That madethe sailors desperate. They seized an ax, crushed the barrel head in,and each seaman dipped with his cup. Within fifteen minutes they werewild with drunkenness. They armed themselves with axes, hand-spikes,belaying pins, marlinspikes, and any and everything they could lay holdof. Then the officers, and some of the passengers who had incurredtheir displeasure, were made to hunt hiding places below in doublequicktime. That condition did not last long, however, before a compromisewas effected, the captain took his position again, and the men went tolanding passengers and baggage. I got my trunk ready to depart, whenthe captain demanded five dollars of me, for hospital fees, he said. AsI had not so much as one dollar, I had to leave my trunk and go ashore,very sick and cold.

When I reached the streets I found things so changed from when I wasthere before that I felt lost in the throng of people. It seemed to methat everyone was seeking his own gain, regardless of his fellow-men.It was push, ram, jam, on all sides. I had worn my clothes pretty wellout, my hat had been so crushed that my hair was showing in the crown,and my shoe soles were worn very nearly off.

In this condition I asked the Lord, in silent prayer, to show mewhat I should do. The Spirit said, "Go up the street." I was then onCalifornia Street. I obeyed the whisperings, until I got near the topof the street. Without any consolation the thought came, What shall Ido? The still, small Voice said, "Go up the street," and I obeyed again.

At last, almost despairing of everything, wholly sick and tired,suffering from lack of some refreshment, and feeling that there was norelief for me, I saw a man start across the street above me, and fromthe same side. When he neared the center of the street, he stopped andseemed to be looking at me. As I advanced, he turned around, and walkedback two or three steps. By this time I started across toward him, andhe came to meet me. It was Redick N. Allred, of the Mormon Battalion.

We did not recognize each other until we went to shake hands. He said,"How are you?" I answered, "Tired, sick, and hungry." "Well," said he,"come back across the street with me, to a lunch stand, and we willhave something to eat." Soon the inner man was comforted, when BrotherAllred told me there were thirty-six Elders in San Francisco, bound toforeign lands on missions. He led me to some of my old friends, andI found John Layton, whom I had been acquainted with on the SocietyIslands. He told me that if I would I could come and stop with him, andchop the wood and do the marketing; for his wife, being an islander,could not talk English well. I accepted the kind offer, and thus wasprovided with a home.

I also met with Major Jefferson Hunt. We saw a Captain King, tooksupper with him, and told him that the captain of the vessel I had comeon had retained my trunk because I had not five dollars to pay thehospital fees. Brother Badlam gave me the money to get my trunk, andCaptain King gave me a note to a custom officer. I obtained my trunkafter I had paid the captain of the Abyssinia the money, and I followedhim up to the custom house, to the officer there, to whom I showedCaptain King's note. The officer gave the sea captain a look, then saidsomething to him, and without a word more he returned me the money.

I next visited the Elders, and attended meetings with them. Theyhad arrived several days before me, and had sold their teams in thesouthern part of California. They had also taken up some collectionsamong the Saints. Brother John M. Horner having been very liberal tothem, a number of them rendered me assistance.

One day, as I was passing Widow Ivins', she called to me, and ran outto meet me, saying, "Here is ten dollars that a lady gave me to hand toyou, and here is thirty dollars more that she wishes you to convey tothat body of Elders that is in town, to help them on their missions."I asked the name of the lady, and the reply was, "I am not at libertyto disclose her name." She said the lady was not a Mormon, but hadattended our meetings, and had stated that she was unworthy to bepersonally known to us; so I never learned who she was.

At one time, when I was walking along the street alone, I was met bya stranger, who offered to shake hands with me. As we grasped hands,he pushed a five-dollar gold piece into mine. I said, "What does thismean?" He replied, "None of your d—d business. Take it, and blessyourself with it. I have money due me, and if I am successful incollecting it, I will see you again." At that he dashed away in thebusy throng, and I never saw him more, that I am aware of.

On a still further occasion, I was met by an entire stranger, who puta dollar in my hand and said, "Come, let us have some good cider andcake." I begged to be excused, but he would not listen to it; I hadto go with him anyhow. We stepped to a lunch stand, where he said,"Let this man have what he calls for; I want to catch that man," andaway he went. The proprietor asked what I would have, and I told him Iwould await the return of my friend. He said, "Never mind him, he isall right; he may not be back again till tomorrow morning." Then heinsisted on my order, so I took some crackers and cider; but I neversaw my friend again. Thus it seemed to me that great and wondrouswere the mysterious providences of the Lord, for I had landed inSan Francisco on the 8th of January, 1853, and by the 26th I hadseventy-five dollars handed to me, much of it by entire strangerswhom I had never seen before, nor have I seen them since. It seemsmysterious to me how my way opened up and my necessities were met.

The Elders outward bound treated me very kindly. They fitted themselvesout for their several destinations, paid their passage, and then hadsome fifteen hundred dollars to send to their families, with theirphotographs and some small parcels, all of which they entrusted to me,with three small trunks, to take to San Bernardino. Of the money sevenhundred and fifty dollars in gold was put into a belt and girded aroundmy body; the balance was in drafts or checks.

In the meantime, some of the Elders had met with Mr. Holliday, overlandmail contractor. As he had not perfected his arrangements for regularmail service, he made some inquiries of the Elders about sending mailsacks by chance carrier to Los Angeles. They referred him to me, asthey thought there would be something in it for me. He called, and Iagreed to take charge of three sacks if he would deliver them on thesteamer Sea Bird, on the morning of the 29th. On that date he sent thesacks just as we were putting off. He told me the pay would be allright when the sacks were delivered.

I had paid thirty-five dollars for my passage to San Pedro, and westeamed out. On the morning of the 30th we landed at Monterey, andlay there till 4 p.m. During that time I had a severe chill, followedby a very high fever, which held on till next morning, when a heavierchill came on, like the ague, followed by fever. I had made my beddown on some nail kegs that were on deck; for the boat was so crowdedwith passengers of all classes that there was no possible chance forcomfort. It semed that everyone was seeking his own convenience,regardless of his neighbor.

CHAPTER XXXVII.

BECOME DESPERATELY ILL—NURSED BACK TO CONSCIOUSNESS—KINDNESSOF AN AGED SPANISH COUPLE—BELT WITH MONEY ENTRUSTED TO MEDISAPPEARS—INTENSE ANXIETY—DISCOVER THE MONEY—GREAT SUFFERING—LANDAT SAN PEDRO—LEFT ON THE BEACH—DRAG MYSELF TO THE SHELTER OF AN OLDWALL—KINDNESS OF A SPANIARD AND HIS WIFE—A TERRIBLE NIGHT—SEEKA PASSAGE TO LOS ANGELES WITH FREIGHTERS—REFUSALS—MEET A KINDTEAMSTER—REACH LOS ANGELES—-DUMPED ON THE STREET—FIND SHELTER, BUTA CHILLY WELCOME—START NEXT MORNING, SICK AND HUNGRY, TO FIND A NEWPLACE—SO ILL I HAVE TO LIE DOWN IN THE STREET—TWO FRIENDS FROM SANBERNARDINO—AM TOLD THAT I HAVE THE SMALLPOX—MY FRIENDS GIVE ME MONEYAND START IN SEARCH OF A HOUSE WHERE I CAN BE CARED FOR—FAILING TOSECURE A ROOM, THEY ENGAGE THE CITY MARSHAL TO GET A PLACE, AND THEYLEAVE FOR SAN BERNARDINO—I WANDER FOR SHELTER, BUT DOORS ARE CLOSED,AND PEOPLE AVOID ME—LODGE IN A DOCTOR'S OFFICE WHILE THE DOCTOR ISOUT—SCARE THE PEOPLE BY SHOUTING "SMALLPOX!"—THE DOCTOR RETURNS BUTLEAVES ME IN POSSESSION.

ON the voyage down from San Francisco I grew so desperately sick thatI lost my reasoning powers, becoming so delirious that afterwards Icould only remember removing my coat and vest and turning into bed, onthe nail kegs, with my trunks and the mail sacks about me. The nextthing that I recall was in the after part of the day, February 1st,1853, when I began to regain consciousness. There was an old Spanishgentleman and his good old "mahara" (wife) rubbing my hands and feet,while a big crowd of the passengers stood around. My first thoughtwas: What does this mean—who am I—where did I come from—where am Igoing—-how did I come here, and why are these strangers so interestedin me as to be rubbing my hands? The next thing, the old gentlemanbrought me some refreshments, with a cup of coffee; and when I finallyreturned to consciousness I inquired what had been the matter. I wastold that I had been a very sick man, but was much better, and wouldsoon be well. When the crowd were satisfied that the worst was pastthey dispersed, but the old gentleman and lady sat near, as if toanticipate any favor I might need. Doubtless the good old couple havebeen gathered home to their fathers long ere this writing. If so,peace to their ashes; may they in no wise lose their reward, for theyadministered to the suffering stranger, although they were foreigners,while my own countrymen passed rudely by.

With consciousness returned, I remembered the money that I had incharge. I felt about my body, and to my surprise and mortificationthe belt was gone. The next thought I had was that I had been robbedby some one on board, and I wondered what could be done to regain theproperty, or, if it could not be recovered, how could I make amends tothe poor women and children whom their husbands and fathers had sentit to? How could I prove my innocence to them? By this time the mentalsufferings had overcome the physical pain, and in despair I drew theblankets close about me. In so doing I felt the belt of money lyingat my back, under cover. The buckle had been ripped or cut off, mostlikely the latter, for, as I learned afterwards, in some way it wasnoised around that I had money.

The reaction of the mental faculties was too much for my weak state,and I almost swooned away; but when I fully recovered from the shockto my nerves, I rolled the belt snugly up, and raised on my knees withmy blankets so drawn about my shoulders as to cover the front part ofthe trunk. Then I placed the belt inside, at the same time taking somearticle out, so as to divert the observers' attention from my realpurpose; I then laid down, suffering with a terrible fever, and put inone night more of great wretchedness.

About 3 or 4 p.m. next day, February 2nd, we landed at San Pedro. Therewas a great rush for the shore, and for the four or five vehiclesthat were in waiting. The most of the passengers seemed to be withoutbaggage, save a roll of blankets or a satchel, and as the the writerhad so much and was sick, he was the last person to land. Every vehiclewas gone, and all the passengers were out of sight before he got hisbaggage ashore. When this did come, it was thrown on the beach justabove high water mark.

At that early date there was not a hotel, boardinghouse, or restaurantanywhere in sight from the landing. One wall of an old adobe warehousestood near by, and the only thing for the writer to do was to seekwhat shelter that wall afforded. Thither he dragged his effects, thendropped down on his bedding exhausted. He lay there until he hadexcited the curiosity of a Spaniard and his wife who were some distanceaway. They came down and asked what was the matter, and as I did notknow, I could not tell them. They saw that my face was swollen andthey seemed afraid to come close, but inquired what I wished, and ifthey could do anything for me. I asked for milk and bread, which theysupplied, and left me to my fate for the night.

The experiences of that terrible night baffle the writer's powers ofdescription. Suffice it to say, he passed it alone, with the heavy mistof the briny deep resting upon him, while the fever and thirst seemedto be consuming his body.

At last the morning light came through a dense fog; but by 8 or 9o'clock that had partly passed away. Some freight teams came down fromLos Angeles, and the sufferer felt somewhat encouraged to think therewas a prospect of his reaching civilization at the place where he hadhelped to rear the first liberty pole which was to bear aloft the Starsand Stripes on the Pacific coast. He accosted the freighters, feelingassured that he would not be denied a passage, as he was prepared topay for this accommodation. The first man said no; he had all that hecould haul. The second teamster said no, he was not doing a passengerbusiness. The third said, "I don't know. It is too d—d bad to leaveyou here sick. I guess I can take you. Throw on your things if you can,and hurry about it." When the writer made an effort to do as invited,the freighter lent him a hand, and when the baggage was aboard theteamster said, "Come, get on here. It's a poor place for a sick man,away up on a goods box, among the bows, but it's your only chance withme. Up there!" and away we went on our journey twenty-one miles to LosAngeles, where we arrived about 8 p.m.

Near the center of the city, on the sidewalk at a street corner, myeffects were dumped. I wandered around to find shelter, and at lastreached Jesse D. Hunter's place. Hunter had been captain of Company Bin the Mormon Battalion, and I thought I could do no better than stopwith him, though I did not meet anything very inviting. I was coldlygranted the privilege of dragging my blankets into the kitchen, and ofbunking down on the dirt floor, after a light supper of bread and milk,the first food I had had since the night before. But I was too ill todo better, and Mr. Hunter was so cool and indifferent that I was gladto leave his place next morning without any further accommodations.

I started out alone, and turned so sick and dizzy that I had to liedown in the street on my blankets. While there I was approached byDaniel Clark and James Bailey from San Bernardino. They asked if myname was Brown, and if I was a returning missionary. I told them yes.They said they had heard of me, and that I had the smallpox, so theyhad been searching the town for me, and happening to see me lie down inthe street, they became satisfied they had found the object of theirsearch. Each of them threw me ten dollars in gold, and went in searchof a room or place where I could be cared for. Failing in finding that,they called on the mayor, who started the marshal out to hunt a place.When Clark and Bailey had done all they could—and they were as kindas they could be—they had the mail sacks delivered, but did not findthe pay that was to be all right on delivery. Then they went home toSan Bernardino, while I did the best I could to find shelter, but myface was so terribly swollen that every door was shut against me; andwhen the news spread that there was a man around the streets with thesmallpox, I could have the sidewalk to myself wherever I went.

At last I found Dr. Jones' office open, but dark and with no one in it.I dragged my bedding through the office to the bedroom, where I spreadmy blankets and turned in, leaving the door open and lights burning.When anyone came to the door I would shout "Smallpox!" and it wasamusing to hear the people run.

About 11 p.m. the doctor came, and I shouted "Smallpox!" Said he:"Who is here?" I answered, "The man whom you said had the smallpox."He responded, "All right, but I would not have had it happen for fivehundred dollars. Be quiet, you have done just right. But how did youget in?"

"Why, the door was open," I replied, and he said: "I never did such athing before in my life. It must have been done on purpose for you, forit was not fit for you to be out." The doctor then held his breath,stepped in over me, took up his bed, and walked away.

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

CITY MARSHALL AND DOCTOR COME TO REMOVE ME—TAKEN TO A DESERTED HOUSE,WHICH HAD BEEN USED AS A SHEEPFOLD—BEDDED IN SHEEP MANURE—AN INDIANNURSE WHO BECOMES FRIGHTENED—SPANISH NURSE SENT TO ME—IN A BOAT WITHPATIENT JOB—MY FEVER INCREASES—ATTACKED BY ROBBERS—RELIEVED BYCITY MARSHAL WITH POSSE—MARSHAL TAKES THE MONEY I HAVE IN MY CARE,FOR SAFE KEEPING—SPANISH NURSE SCARED OFF—QUEER SAILOR NURSE—HEDRINKS WHISKY, SINGS AND DANCES—HIS THOUGHTFUL CARE OF ME—VISITEDBY MY COUSIN—KINDNESS OF SAN BERNARDINO SAINTS—RECOVERING FROM MYILLNESS—MY CLOTHING BURNED—HEAVY EXPENSE BILL AGAINST ME—TELL THECITY MARSHAL OF MY ARRIVAL IN CALIFORNIA AS A UNITED STATES SOLDIER INTHE MEXICAN WAR—KINDNESS OF THE MARSHAL—LOS ANGELES ASSUMES THE BILLFOR MEDICAL ATTENTION GIVEN ME—START FOR SAN BERNARDINO—EXHAUSTEDON THE JOURNEY—ALMOST DIE OF THIRST—RELIEVED BY A PARTY OF SPANISHLADIES—KINDNESS OF SPANISH FAMILIES—ARRIVE AT SAN BERNARDINO AND MEETFRIENDS AND RELATIVES.

EARLY next morning, the marshal and doctor were there with suitablerefreshments, and when the patient had made a feint at eating they toldhim they had secured a room if he could put up with it. Sheep had beenkept in it, and it was smoked very black, but they assured him thatthe conditions were favorable to recovery from the disease. Then theytook him by his arms and assisted him into an old cart that they hadstanding at the door; they had an Indian to lead the horse.

The patient could not see a particle only as he held his eyes open withhis fingers. He told them of his trunk, which had been left all thistime where the freighter had dumped it when the writer came into town.The trunk was brought, and the Indian led out, the marshal and doctorbringing up the rear.

When we passed the suburbs, we turned to the right, to an old desertedadobe house of two rooms. The front yard had been used as a sheepfold.The doors had been broken down, and the sheep had had free access tothe rooms, until the sheep manure was some five or six inches deep onthe dirt floor. The rooms were very poorly lighted at best; and to addto the darkness, the sheepherders had camped in them till the whole ofthe inside of the rooms was smoked as black as a stove. The doctor saidit was the best they could do, adding: "It is too d—d bad to put youin such a place, but if you will put up with it, it will be the verybest thing for you in the end. The sheepy smell, and the darkness, withsome ointment that I will give you, will prevent your being marked;whereas, if you were kept in a light, clean room, you have got thedisease so bad that you would be marked all over. Then again you havebeen so badly exposed that you must put up with the treatment in orderto recover properly, lest something else follows."

I told him that my condition was such that I was compelled to submit toany treatment they saw fit to give. Then they got some tools, removedthe dry, hard packed manure, and placed my mattress down on the dirtfloor, so that when the covering was spread ready for me it was justlevel with the manure on the front, the foot, head and back beingagainst the walls.

Having turned in, I opened my eyes with my fingers, and found myselfin twilight, with an Indian man for a nurse. The marshal and doctorleft, saying that I should be cared for. Then the nurse went off, andsoon returned with a custard in a coffee basin; this he said was worthfifty cents. He brought it, and an iron spoon to eat the custard, butwhen I opened my eyes in such an unnatural way, they appeared so badlybloodshot that the nurse took fright and ran away, leaving me to myfate until 5 or 6 o'clock p.m. Then an old Spaniard, who was very badlypox-marked, came and said he had been engaged as a nurse, as the Indianwas so frightened at the disease that he would not return. The Spaniardseemed to comprehend the conditions. He got a Spanish roll of bread anda pint of milk for fifty cents, then straightened up the bed and leftfor the night. Next morning he was on hand to attend to my wants.

This was on February 6, 1853. The smallpox began to appear in pustules,or rather boils; for it so resembled the latter that I began to thinkof patient old Job. I was sore from the crown of my head to the solesof my feet, and yet it was only blisters that day, comparativelyspeaking.

The Spanish nurse seemed to understand his business, for as I wouldroll and toss, the old gentleman would tuck the bedclothes about me,saying, "Must not let the air to you. Must keep warm, and have warmdrink, and have the bowels moderately easy." Then he would apply theointment, and be as cheerful as possible, doing all that he could todivert my mind from my sufferings.

Night came on and the blisters enlarged; I became very sick at thestomach, and the kind old nurse stayed by me till daylight on the 7th.The fever still raged fiercely. Night again came, and the nurse gotalarmed at seeing some six or seven rough men, armed, approaching thehouse. He hastily gathered his arms full of cobblestones, ran in andpiled them on the edge of the bed, and cried out, "Can you fight? Therobbers are coming. Murder! murder!" At that I raised in bed, opened myeyes in the new way, and took up a cobble rock, the nurse standing bythe bed shouting "Murder!"

The next moment three ruffians appeared at the partition door, in thehouse, while another presented himself at the window, near the headof the bed. So far as I could see, they were armed with revolvers andbowie knives. There must have been two or three men at the outside door.

The shock came so suddenly that I had no time to get thoroughly scareduntil I heard men running around the northwest corner of the house.The latter noise was by the marshal and a posse which he had summonedhastily, for a party had been in the saloon and had heard the ruffianssay, "Let's go and rob that man who has got the smallpox, for he hasgot money." It must be that some of the party had been the ones whohad ripped the belt off of me while on shipboard, where they had beendisturbed before they had time to slip it away. Thus they had learnedabout the money, and when they got to drinking and gambling, theyprobably had decided on robbing the smallpox man to make a raise, buthad talked too loud for the success of their plan. The marshal actedso promptly that they were foiled in their plot, for when they heardhim and his posse coming, and the nurse shouting "Murder!" they fledto the southeast and passed over into a dark, deep, brushy ravine,out of sight, just as the marshal and party gained the south side ofthe building. The officer said he saw them, but had not time to shootbefore they disappeared in the brush and darkness.

The marshal came into the house and informed me of the plot and how hecame to hear of it. He said, "Now, if you have any money or valuablepapers, you had better send for some trusty friend to come and takecare of them. I will send for anyone that you will name." I told himI did not know of a better friend than the one who had come to myrelief, and if he, the marshal, would take care of the valuables, Iwould be much obliged. He said he would take charge of them and havethem deposited for safekeeping till I wanted them. I then handed outmy memorandum book, with the names of the men who sent the money, theamounts, and the names of those to whom it was sent. Then, my eyesbeing propped open, I poured the money on to a handkerchief they hadspread over my lap. As the money was mostly in gold ten and twentydollar pieces, in fifty dollar packages, it was easily and quicklycounted, and found to tally with the memoranda. Then the drafts andchecks were counted, and all put together in the belt—some fifteenhundred dollars—and handed over to the marshal, with Dr. Jones aswitness.

When the gold was being counted out, some of the would-be robbersappeared at the window, and doubtless saw that the marshal was takingcharge of the valuables, by which action their plot fell through,and I was not troubled any more. But the experience was enough forthe Spanish nurse, for the robbers undoubtedly were Spaniards or"greasers," and if they could take revenge on him they would do it.Some of the marshal's posse stayed till they felt satisfied the dangerwas all over, then they, with the nurse, left, and next day sent tome an old badly pox-marked sailor for an attendant. He came in with abottle of whisky that he said was a hundred years old.

The first thing the new nurse said was, "Hello, old chum! What are youdoing there? Come, and have a drink with me." The next breath he said,"No, no, for I know it would not do for you. I will drink for you. Sohere goes." He then took a liberal draught, and wanted to know what hecould do for my comfort. On being told there was nothing I wanted justthen, he said, "Let me sing you a song," and he sang a very comicalditty. Then he said, "I'll dance a jig for you," and at it he went. Inthe performance he kicked the dry manure pretty nearly all over me andmy bed, for he was "three sheets in the wind and the fourth fluttering"(three-fourths drunk, or more.)

When he saw what he had done, he dropped on his knees and beggedpardon, making the most humble apology. Said he, "Never mind, old chum,just lay over to starboard, and I will make it all right." He brushedand brushed away, then said, "Now to larboard, and I will fix you allright." So he pounded away, talking all the time in his sailor phrases.Finally he partially sobered up, and it would have been hard to find amore thoughtful and attentive nurse. From that time on he stayed withme, told many interesting sea stories, and sang love songs.

On February 10th my cousin, John M. Brown, who was passing through thatpart of the country, came to the door and called. "Is that you, James?"At the same time he threw a ten dollar gold piece on the bed; but nothaving had the smallpox, he dare not come in. We had not met before ineight years. At that date I was suffering intensely, if not the worstthat I had done, for I was down so weak that I could not help myself atall.

On the 11th, W. G. Sherwood, of San Bernardino, came in, saying thatthe Saints had raised some money for me, and had sent him to take careof me until I was able to come out to them. Brothers D. Clark and J.Bailey had told President Seeley of my condition. I felt indeed verythankful for the favors shown me.

On the 14th the smallpox had nearly died away, and by the 19th I wasconsidered out of all danger, with prudence. On the 20th, the doctorand marshal came and ordered all of my bedding and a good suit ofclothes that I had on when taken down, boots, hat, and all, piled inthe yard, and there burned. They said my expenses had been five dollarsper day for the house, because of the disease and being close to wherethe landlord and his family lived. The nurses also had to be paid thesame amount per day. I told them I had been out on a long mission at myown expense, and now had so little money that it would cost me everydollar that I had to meet the loss of my clothes and bedding, so it wasimpossible for me to settle such a bill, one hundred and forty dollars.I had paid for every article I had used except a little medicine thedoctor had furnished.

The marshal and doctor said they understood that I had come into thecountry as a soldier in the time of the Mexican war. I told them that Ihad helped to build the fort that overlooked the town, and that I wentto San Bernardino canyon and helped get down the first liberty polethat ever bore the Stars and Stripes on this western coast. At thisthey asked a number of questions, as if to satisfy themselves whetheror not I had told them the truth, and when they became convinced themarshal said: "Mr. Brown, do not make any trouble, for we will see thatyou do not have to pay that bill; you are worthy of all the care thatyou have had, and more too. Los Angeles will pay that, and you arefree to go on your way. We are pleased to have made your acquaintance,and that you have recovered so well; for your case has been a veryremarkable one, to have had the disease so badly and after beingexposed as you were, to have recovered so soon, with scarce a mark lefton you. It has been a most wonderful case, and we congratulate you onyour safe recovery, and wish you success on your journey to Salt Lake."Of course I could not feel otherwise than very grateful to those twogentlemen for their kind attention and largeness of soul. Then we badeeach other good-bye and I am not conscious that we have ever met sincethat day.

Brother Sherwood and I stored my trunk, put our other effects on hispoor old stallion, went down town and got my money and some provisionsand a bottle of old whisky, and were amused to see so many people runfrom the smallpox, while others stood afar off and gazed. Finally, onFebruary 21st, we set out for San Bernardino, eighty miles, on foot,one leading and the other punching the old horse, which was so weakthat he stumbled wherever the road was a little rough. We only got tenmiles that day.

On the 22nd we proceeded on our journey another ten miles, when it wasimpossible for me to go any further. I was thoroughly exhausted, andhad to lie down or drop. We were ten miles from water, and so thirstythat it seemed that I must die on that arid plain. Brother Sherwood,however, proved equal to the emergency. He got me on to a pair ofblankets, led the old horse up so as to cast a shadow over me, thenhastened to soak a piece of bread in some old whisky. He gave me thebread, saying it would slake my thirst, and stimulate me. Strange as itseemed to me, it did so, and in a short time I was able to rise alone,and sit up.

We had not been there a great while when we saw a party of Spanishladies coming in on another road, that appeared to unite with the onewe were on; so by an effort we gained the junction just as they did.They stopped their cart, and asked if we would have some wine. We saidwe preferred water, and they gave us both. Seeing that I was very ill,they invited me to ride with them, making room so that I had a placebetween the two on the front seat and rested my head and shoulders onthe laps of the two on the rear seat, while they bathed my head withwater, and urged me to take a little more wine. It did seem that if ithad not been for this most unexpected kindness I should have died ofthirst and exhaustion before we could have reached any other source ofsupport.

Brother Sherwood followed in the rear to where the ladies lived, butbefore he came up I was helped on to a bed in a cool room, and had somerefreshments, with a cup of chocolate. Oh, how thankful I was to thoseblessed Spanish "senoritas!" When their husbands came in, they shookhands and seemed to be pleased that their wives had dealt so kindlywith the strange American. Brother Sherwood soon arrived, and theyunpacked his horse and took care of it, while the women supplied himwith water to bathe his hands and face, and with refreshments. Then heand I retired early.

Next morning, February 23, we were served with chocolate and tortias(pancakes) before we were out of bed. Our hosts had only a humblehome, but so kind were they in their attentions to us that it arousedsuspicions of a large bill to pay, but when we asked them the amountthey shrugged their shoulders Spanish fashion, and with a pleasantsmile said, in Spanish, "Nothing; friendship; no more." As we bade themgood-bye they said they would be pleased for me to allow them to havethe little smallpox scab that was on my nose, if we thought it wouldnot leave a mark, so they and Brother Sherwood removed it, and thoughtit would not leave any pit; therefore I allowed him to remove it andleave it with them. Still it did leave its mark till this day.

We proceeded on to a ranch where we met with a fourth cousin of mine,John Garner, who kindly offered me a seat in his wagon. He was loadedand could not start till late, but we could reach his place beforemidnight, and Brother Sherwood could push on; for when we startedSherwood would not be able to keep up. I accepted his proposition, andwe reached his home at 11 o'clock p.m.

On the 24th I went to what they called at that time, I believe, FortSan Bernardino. There I found many warm-hearted friends, and a numberof relatives, among them John M. and Alexander Brown, my cousins. Imade my home with the latter, who, with his wife, was very kind to me.I also visited many old acquaintances. My trunk I sent for by SidneyTanner, and he brought it from Los Angeles free of charge.

CHAPTER XXXIX.

REPORT MY MISSION—PREPARE TO CONTINUE THE JOURNEY TO UTAH—HAVETO REMAIN AT SAN BERNARDINO FOR A TIME—SICKNESS AMONG THEPEOPLE—INSTANCES OF HEALING BY ADMINISTRATION—ENGAGE TO TRAVELWITH A PACK-TRAIN TO SALT LAKE CITY—GET A "BUCKING" MILE—START ONTHE JOURNEY—IN A HOSTILE INDIAN COUNTRY—SIGNS OF DANGER—PREPAREFOR TROUBLE—SUDDEN APPEARANCE OF AN INDIAN—OUR PARTY WANT TOSHOOT—I PROTEST, AND MAKE FRIENDS WITH THE INDIAN—OTHER RED MENAPPEAR—DIFFICULTY OF RESTRAINING OUR PARTY—I CONVERSE WITH THEINDIANS, WHO TELL OF A CAMP OF MORMONS AND MEXICANS A SHORT DISTANCEAHEAD—HOW I UNDERSTOOD THE INDIANS—DISCOVER THE CAMP SPOKEN OF—RESTA DAY—MOVE TOWARD THE SANTA CLARA—DANGER AHEAD—A FIRE ACROSS OURPATH—WE DASH THROUGH IT—HOSTILE INDIANS—AN EXCITING CHASE—MEETAPOSTLES A. M. LYMAN AND C. C. RICH—ARRIVE AT CEDAR CITY—STOPAT PAROWAN—JOURNEY NORTH, PREACHING EN ROUTE—REACH SALT LAKECITY—SETTLE WITH THE PEOPLE FOR WHOM I HAVE MONEY—REPORT TO PRESIDENTYOUNG—PREACH IN THE TABERNACLE—RELEASED PROM MY MISSION—COST OF MYMISSION TO THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.

ON February 27th, I was called on by President Seeley of the branch ofthe Church at San Bernardino, to give a report of my mission, and I didso before the congregation. On March 9th, I prepared to come home withJohn and Alexander Brown, to Salt Lake City, but for some reason theygave up the idea of traveling at that time, and I had to await anotheropportunity. Then we looked about the country, thinking that we wouldmake some improvements, if we did not meet with a better chance to cometo Utah.

About this time there was a great amount of sickness in the place, andElder Thomas Whitaker, from the islands, and I had numerous calls toadminister to the sick. Many seemed to be possessed of evil spirits;certainly, if they had lived in Mary Magdalene's day it would havebeen said of them that they had seven devils in them; for the actionswere the same as in those days, and the evil spirits would not comeout except through fasting and prayer. Consequently, President Seeleyordered a fast and a prayer meeting for the Saints. It was very wellattended, and good results followed. Many people were healed of thediseases afflicting them. One incident I will mention: There livedin the town a man named John Brown; he had a Spanish wife and one ortwo children. One evening, Major Jefferson Hunt's wife called on meto come as quickly as possible, for Mr. Brown's child looked as if itwere dying. I went in, and found the mother and child in bed together.The little one acted as if it were choking to death, and was fightingfor breath; it gnashed its teeth and frothed at the mouth. I anointedit with consecrated oil, and as there was no other Elder handy Iadministered to the child, when every symptom of its trouble left itimmediately, but seized on the mother. She raved, frothed and foamedat the mouth, gnashed her teeth, cramped, and seemed so ill that shecould not live five minutes. Sister Hunt anointed her with oil, and Iadministered to her. She was healed that moment. An Indian woman wassitting there sewing, and the same power that had afflicted the childand its mother took hold of the Indian woman. By this time anothersister had stepped in, and she and Sister Hunt raised the Indian womanup, for she had fallen over. They called on me to lay hands on her,but I did not feel to do so at once. I told them to wet her face andrub her hands. They did so, and she grew worse every minute, until Iadministered to her, by laying my hands upon her and praying, rebukingthe evil spirits, commanding them in the name of the Lord to comeout of her and to depart from her and from that house, and from thehouses and homes of the Saints, and to get hence to their own home,and trouble us no more. That moment the evil spirits left, and did notreturn again. The three persons who were afflicted were perfectly wellnext morning, and I never heard of their being afflicted afterwards.

There had been a number of cases where persons had been similarlyaffected, and some of them were not healed until they had been baptizedseven times in succession, when they were permanently cured. Indeed,there were very many remarkable cases of healing in San Bernardinoabout that time.

On April 15th, my cousin, John M. Brown, learned that a man namedLamper was going to start with the mail to Salt Lake City, and had onlyfour men with him. As that was too small a number to be safe, it wasascertained that if he could have three or four more he would like itvery much. He told John M. Brown that if he would raise two or threeother men, he would wait at the mouth of the Cajon Pass for them.

As my cousin had never had any experience with pack animals, he told methat if I would go with him and help with the stock and packs, for thatservice he would furnish everything needed en route, he knowing that Ihad had experience in that line, and in the handling of wild horses andmules.

I accepted the offer, so we made ready, and were off on the 19th ofApril. We overtook the party in waiting at the place agreed upon. Theanimal provided for my saddle mule was wild, large and strong, andgiven to jumping stiff-legged, or bucking, as it is called. It was ahard animal to handle, and was successful in dumping its rider threetimes in the fore part of the journey, to the amusement of his fivecomrades. We had nineteen head of animals, and traveled at the rate offifty miles per day, for the first half of the journey, because ourroute led us through a hostile Indian country.

We stood regular turns of guard, and all went well till the last daybefore we came to the Muddy. That day we saw danger signs, of Indians.I will say now, my friendly reader, if ever you travel in an Indiancountry, and come to fresh Indian tracks, yet do not see an Indian,then you may be sure that some red man wants a few horses and someplunder, if, indeed, he does not want a scalp or two to hang to hisbridle-bit or surcingle. That was our danger sign, plenty of freshIndian tracks, where they had rolled large boulders into the narrowpasses in the road, or gorges where the road passed through. Thissatisfied us that we were in danger of an unpleasant surprise, so weexamined every firelock, made sure there was powder in every tube, goodwaterproof caps on, ammunition handy, packs securely bound, saddleswell girt, and every man prepared to act promptly in case of an attack.

At this time we were crossing from the Las Vegas to the Muddy. Ithink the distance without water was sixty-five miles, so there wasno alternative for us but to press forward to the Muddy River, werewe arrived in safety about 4 a.m., watered our stock, and got a hastymeal, giving our animals a very short time for rest and to feed.

At daylight we began to saddle up for another start. Just as we wereready to mount, a large, stout Indian raised up out of the willowswithin bow-shot, and hallooed. He had his bows and arrows in hand. Atthat my cousin John leveled his gun on the red man, when I seized itand forbade anyone to shoot, as others of the party had made ready forthe worst. At that moment the Indian held out his hand and came towardus, as if to shake hands. Every man of the party but myself was readyand anxious to open fire on the Indian, but I stood between him andthem until they had mounted. I told them if there was one shot firedevery one of us would be killed. The Indian said to me that he wishedto be friendly. Then I mounted and the party started, and at the sametime twenty-five or thirty Indians, all well armed, raised up out ofthe brush within easy pistol range. My party again drew their guns,when I told them to hold on, for the Indians were friendly, and theirobject was merely to beg some food; but some of my party were hard tocontrol.

As my companions trotted up, I fell back with the Indians, who talked,and I began to understand them, although I had not been among themone day. It was given me to understand them, and I told my companionsthat I did so. I told them further, that I would stand between themand the Indians, if they would not shoot. One said, "How do you knowthat they are friendly if you have never been among them before? Theyare following us up. Send them away, if you know so much about theirfriendship."

The Indians told me that when the sun got to such a position, pointingto where it would be at about 9 o'clock a.m., we would come to a largecamp of Mormons and non-Mormons, with their families; that they hadhorses, mules and horned stock, and wagons, also some sheep and goats.There was a lot of Mexicans camped with them, and these had pack-mules.This, and more, was told me in the Indian dialect, and was as plain tomy understanding as if it had been spoken in my native tongue; yet myparty were slow to believe, and some of them cursed the Indians, sayingthat if the black rascals were friendly, why did they not go back,instead of following us up. Being fearful that our party could not berestrained much longer, I halted and talked with the Indians, tellingthem I was afraid my friends would shoot them unless they fell back,and ceased to follow up so closely. The Indians replied that I wouldsoon learn that what they had said was true, as they did not talk twoways.

Just then we saw a Mexican come dashing down the hillside towards us.When he came to us and shook hands, then confirmed what the Indianshad told me, my cousin John said, "I believe Jim does understand theIndians, for he understands the Spanish language, and the Spaniardshave told him just what the Indians have said. I believe he is halfIndian, or he would not be so friendly with and understand them sowell."

Soon we came to a raise, from which we could see the camps, just asthey had been described to us minutely in the morning, by the Indians,who followed us up to the camps, and with pride pointed out to useverything they had spoken of, saying, "We do not lie." I believe thatour party had become satisfied that the Indians had made the signs seenon the road the day before, and then had laid in ambush to intimidateus, that they might get something to eat, for they were very closelyrun for food; again, it may have been that they meant more seriousthings and were deterred therefrom by learning of the approach of thecompany we found in camp.

At any rate we felt safer to lay by with the camp one day, and restourselves and stock; then we proceeded over a big dry bench to the RioVirgen, then up that river and across another high plateau to BeaverDam. From there we crossed another high rolling country of some fortymiles or more, to Santa Clara. When we got half way across we sawa signal smoke, apparently on the Santa Clara where the road comesto that stream, or perhaps a little above. Feeling conscious of ourweakness, we watched the smoke with no little concern, and as I had hadconsiderably more acquaintance with the red men than any others of theparty, I told them that from the way the fire was managed there wasmischief ahead, and we must prepare for the worst. Our animals werethirsty and well jaded, yet there was no choice for us but to brave thedanger ahead. Then the examination of firelocks and the cinching ofsaddles was in order. That matter, however, was delayed so long as wefelt safe.

When the preparation was made, and the smoke had grown denser, weadvanced and saw that the streak of fire was in the narrows of thecanyon. It extended from cliff to cliff, and evidently was madein a scheme of plunder or massacre, most likely both. Under thecircumstances, we were compelled to run the gauntlet, so it was hastilydecided for me to lead the way. I agreeing to do this if the partywould obey my orders, and not fire until I did, or gave the command tothem. If I gave the warwhoop they were to do the same. The first orderwas to draw weapons for action, then charge with all possible speed.Away we went, and as we neared the flames we chose the most open spot,or that which seemed freest of fire. Although there was a continuousstream of flames clear across the canyon, some places were freer thanothers. We chose the place where the least fire was, the flames therebeing not more than two or two and a half feet high. If the timber inthe canyon had been larger, it might have afforded the Indians a betteropportunity, but instead of secreting themselves in the bottom of theravine, they had chosen the cliffs on either side.

Just before we reached the fire, we urged our animals up to the bestspeed, and, raising as big a warwhoop as we were capable of, andbrandishing our firearms in the most threatening manner, we dashedthrough. At the same time, the Indians showed themselves in the cliffswith drawn bows, trying to take aim through the timber. They answeredour whoop or yell, and gave chase, but they being on foot, and ouranimals having become thoroughly frightened at the sudden change thathad taken place and with the evergoading spurs of their riders, rushedon ahead. Though very thirsty, our animals never attempted to drink,although we crossed the stream a number of times. For fully five mileswe never slackened our speed, the Indians keeping in sight of us forfully that distance, when they gave up the chase. Then our stock andourselves quenched our thirst, and we continued on at as good a speedas was consistent with our conditions. Finally we met Apostles Amasa M.Lyman and C. C. Rich, with two or three wagons and twelve or fourteenmen, mostly mounted. As it was camp time, we made a joint camp, andhad no more trouble. If an arrow had been shot at us, we did not knowit, though there may have been a hundred or more. We did not think itadvisable to try to ascertain, as we felt that our scalps were moreprecious than this information, or than money or horseflesh. It wasdistance between us and the scalping-knife of the red men that we werehunting for just then.

We stood double guard that night, and all passed off peacefully. Nextmorning, each party proceeded on its way in peace, we to Cedar Fort, orcity, where we arrived May 5th, and met with many friends. We attendedmeeting with the people, I was called on to give an account of mymission, and did so.

On May 6th, we proceeded to Parowan, and as it was considered safe fromthere on, my cousin John M. Brown and I stopped there with friendswe had not seen for years. The rest of the party, having the mail incharge, went ahead, and we tarried one week, being royally treated. Ipreached two or three times. We resumed the journey on the 15th. Inpassing along, I preached in most of the towns where we stayed overnight.

When we came to Lehi, I commenced to settle with the people whom I hadmoney for, then went on to Little Cottonwood and settled with more,then to Big Cottonwood, where I found still others for whom I had money.

On May 22nd we arrived in Salt Lake City, and stopped with our uncle.Alexander Stephens. On the 23rd, I called at President Brigham Young'soffice and reported myself and mission. He received me very kindly, andwelcomed me home again. I also met Brothers H. C. Kimball and JedediahM. Grant, a number of the Twelve Apostles, and other prominent men. Allwere very courteous, and expressed pleasure at my safe return.

On the 24th and 25th, I called and settled with all I had money,checks, or drafts for, and I found them all well, and much pleased toget the needed relief, financially. On the 26th, as I desired to go toOgden City, I called at President Young's office to bid him good-bye.He kindly invited me to come to the stand in the Tabernacle on June7th, to preach. I did so, though it delayed me in my intended visit tomy friends and relatives in Ogden City. When I filled that call, I washonorably released from further labors in the missionary field at thattime. My mission had occupied three years and eight months, and cost meevery dollar that I had when I started out. I was then worth fifteenhundred dollars in good property, which I spent; but I never regrettedit. The experience that I had gained I counted worth much more than themoney expended.

CHAPTER XL.

TRAVEL ON FOOT TO OGDEN—WELL RECEIVED BY RELATIVES AND FRIENDS—REPLYTO INQUIRIES BY THE PEOPLE REGARDING THE SOCIETY ISLANDS ANDTHE INHABITANTS THEREOF—CALLED TO GO TO FORT HALL—ORDERCOUNTERMANDED—CALLED ON A MISSION TO THE INDIANS—DESIGN OF THEMISSION—ORGANIZATION OF THE COMPANY, AND START FROM SALT LAKECITY—HARD WORK OF THE JOURNEY—ATTACKED BY WOLVES—FATAL DUEL ATFORT BRIDGER—PLANS OF DESPERADOES—WE GO TO SMITH'S FORK—BUILDA BLOCKHOUSE—ARRIVAL OF MORE MEN AND SUPPLIES—THREATENINGATTITUDE OF THE INDIANS—WRITER MADE SERGEANT OF THE GUARD ANDQUARTERMASTER—INSTRUCTIONS FROM ELDER ORSON HYDE—LIFE IN OURNEW CAMP—COLD WEATHER AND WILD BEASTS—LEARNING THE INDIANLANGUAGE—GIVE SHELTER TO INDIANS—DESPERADO CHIEF KILLED BY ONE OFHIS MEN—ANIMALS PERISH FROM COLD AND STARVATION—TERRIFIC STORMS ANDSNOWDRIFTS—SAVING OUR STOCK—SHOSHONE INDIANS ASK FOR AND RECEIVEASSISTANCE—HUNT FOR ANTELOPE FAILS—A BACHELOR'S DANCE—RAISING ALIBERTY POLE—PARTITIONING OUT LANDS—PLOWING AND PLANTING—ARRIVAL OFAND INSTRUCTIONS BY ELDER ORSON HYDE—SELECTIONS FOR A SPECIAL MISSIONTO THE INDIANS—ORGANIZATION OF GREEN RIVER COUNTY.

ON June 9, 1853, I started to Ogden City, afoot and alone. On the 10th,I paid out the last quarter of a dollar that I had to the ferryman, toset me across the Weber River, at East Weber. From there I crossed thehills to my Uncle John Stephens', and found him and his family well andpleased to see me. I reciprocated the pleasure, had dinner and a shortvisit, then went on to Ogden City, where I again met with Cousin JohnM. Brown and his father's family, and our two aunts, Polly and NancyBrown; as also more relatives and former friends, all of whom treatedme with much kindness, and as if the lost had been found.

The first Sabbath after my arrival in Ogden, I was called on to givea report of my mission, and to preach. By doing this, there was agreat spirit of inquiry excited about the Society Islands and theirinhabitants. I found that scarce one in a thousand of the peoplehad the remotest idea of affairs on the islands I had been to. Thequestions asked and the answers given were about like this:

Q. Where are the islands?

A. In the South Pacific Ocean.

Q. What are they like?

A. The spur of a mountain in a vast plain.

Q. What are the chief products?

A. Cocoanuts, oranges, lemons, limes, citrus fruits, arrowroot, sweetpotatoes or yams (a species of potato that takes about eighteenmonths to mature), coffee, cotton, chili pepper, corn, rice, tobacco,sugarcane; a root called taro grows in the swamps and somewhatresembles the Indian turnip that grows in the Middle States, and on theislands is cultivated for food, being one of the most staple products;breadfruit grows in great abundance; there is a fruit called viappleand another called doava, neither of which is of much importance. Thereare also pineapples, bananas, and a fruit called feii which grows on aplant like the banana, and is one of the best and most generally usedfruits there.

Q. Is the soil rich?

A. Yes; but this is limited to small strips along the coasts and thewater courses.

Q. What kind of a climate is it?

A. Very hot. Papeete, the capital of Tahiti, is in seventeen degreesthirty-two minutes south latitude, and one hundred and forty-fourdegrees thirty-four minutes west longitude, computed from Greenwich,and if it were not for the frequent rains, southerly breezes, and theconstant trade winds, it would be almost impossible for human beings tolive there.

Q. What kinds of timber grow there?

A. Various kinds of scrubby timber not known in our country, chief ofwhich is hutu or tamana, an excellent timber for shipbuilding, and forfine furniture; there is also sandal wood, the heart being of greatvalue, as it is used for perfume, and decorating musical instruments,work-boxes, etc.

Q. Having given a brief description of the islands composing theSociety group, the Tubuoi and Tubuoimono archipelago, and of theirprincipal products, the next question was: What kind of people inhabitthem?

A. They are very large in stature, are brave, and formerly were verywarlike. Their complexion is like that of the American Indian, andtheir habits are much the same. They are hospitable to a fault. Intheir heathenish days, they were idol-worshipers and very devout.Originally, their government was patriarchal, but as they increased itbecame tribal, then confederate. A district of country called monteinawould combine for war purposes, and finally would become a monarchy.Thus they had their kings and queens, and began to have royalty. Asto other matters, there are no native animals, but of fowls there aresuch as sea birds, and the common wild duck; also of reptiles, a small,harmless, greenish lizard. The greatest insect pests are the nimbleflea and the common mosquito, in numberless quantities. Many years agothe people had the smallpox, and as it was a strange disease to them,and they were without the knowledge of how to treat it, they died byhundreds, if not by thousands. As soon as they learned that it wascontagious, the people fled to the mountains, and there hid away untiltheir swine and chickens went wild, in which state these increased,producing the wild boar and wild chickens, which are frequentlyhunted by the people, and which, but for the rugged fastnesses of themountains, soon would become extinct.

A TYPICAL TAHITIAN WITH HIS BURDEN OF BREAD FRUIT AND FEII.

I will leave that subject now and return to my own experiences aftergetting home. I turned my hand to farm labor, and anything I could getto do until the 6th of September. Then Major Moore, having receivedorders from Governor Young to raise a company of men and send themnorth to Fort Hall, to protect or assist a company there on somebusiness, called me to take charge of that company. When we were withinthree hours of starting, the order to go was countermanded, and Icontinued to work for two dollars per day until the 8th of October,when, at a general conference, I was called, with several others, totake a mission to the Indian tribes east of the Salt Lake valley.

Elder Orson Hyde was chosen to lead the company to somewhere in theregion of the Green River, select a place, and there build an outpostfrom which to operate as peacemakers among the Indians, to preachcivilization to them, to try and teach them how to cultivate thesoil, to instruct them in the arts and sciences if possible, and bythat means prevent trouble for our frontier settlements and emigrantcompanies. We were to identify our interests with theirs, even tomarrying among them, if we would be permitted to take the youngdaughters of the chief and leading men, and have them dressed likecivilized people, and educated. It was thought that by forming thatkind of an alliance we could have more power to do them good, and keeppeace among the adjacent tribes as also with our own people.

It was known that there were wicked and cruel white men among theIndians, working up the spirit of robbery and murder among the savagetribes, and against the Mormon people. Our missionary call was to takeour lives in our hands, as true patriots, and head off, and operate asfar as possible against the wicked plots of white men who were tryingto carry their plans to success through the Indians, and possibly setthe savages on the war path, that the government might send troops out.and thus make a better market for the schemers' herds of cattle andhorses.

From the October conference I returned to Ogden City, settled whatlittle business I had, and prepared for the mission, going to Salt LakeCity on the 15th, ready for the work assigned me. There I reportedmyself, but the majority of the men who had been called at the sametime that I was were not ready until the 1st of November, when we metin the Council House, and there effected an organization.

It was in the evening, about 8 o'clock, when we met. There werethirty-nine men who reported themselves ready to start next morning.November 2nd. Elders Orson Hyde, Parley P. Pratt and Ezra T. Benson,of the Twelve Apostles, were present, and organized the company byappointing Elders John Nebeker president and captain, John Harveyfirst counselor and lieutenant and James S. Brown second counselorand lieutenant. The captain and lieutenants were so that we might actin a military capacity if necessity required it, and the presidentand counselors were for ecclesiastical affairs. The officers wereblessed and set apart by the three Apostles named. The Apostles toldthe members of the company that they would be blessed equally with theofficers if they would be prayerful, do their duty, and hearken to andbe united with their officers. We were also told that some of us mighthave to take Indian wives.

On November 2nd twenty wagons, with one hundred and ten head of cattle,horses and mules, were ready for a start. To each man there was threehundred pounds of flour, seventy-five pounds of seed wheat, and fortypounds of seed potatoes. Each man fitted himself up with such otherprovisions and seed as he chose or could do. We started out at 1o'clock p.m., and that night camped in Emigration Canyon.

We crossed the Little Mountain on November 3rd. Having to double teams,we made slow headway, and only got to within four miles of the BigMountain. On the 5th, we crossed that, and camped at its eastern base.The road was very bad, so that we made but few miles on the 6th, andcamped in the foothills, where our stock was attacked about 3 o'clocka.m. by a pack of big gray wolves, which were so savage that every manhad to be called out to fight them. The night was very dark, and wefired guns, built fires in a circle around the stock, and stayed withthem till daylight. Yet, with all that, some of the milch cows had partof their udders torn off, while others were badly gashed as by a sharpknife. By hard work we succeeded in preventing the wolves killing anyof our animals, and then got an early start on the morning of the 7th.

As we were heavily loaded, and the roads very rough, we did not reachFort Bridger until November 15th. At that place there were twelve orfifteen rough mountain men. They seemed to be very surly and suspiciousof us and the spirit of murder and death appeared to be lurking intheir minds. Many of our party could feel that terrible influence andmade remarks about it. It was not long till we were informed by some ofthe party at the fort that two men there had fought a duel the nightbefore with butcher knives, and both were killed. The others of theparty had dug a hole and had thrown both men into it as they had fallenand died—clasped in each other's arms. Thus the gloom and cloud ofdeath that we had felt so plainly was partially explained. We passedone and a half miles above the fort, and camped on Black's Fork. Thatnight it snowed about six inches.

We learned from the men at Fort Bridger that fifteen or twenty mountainmen had moved over on to Henry's Fork, and that the Ute Indians werecoming over there to winter. That was the place we were headingfor, and some of the roughest men of the mountains were claimingthat as their country. Our information now being that there was awell-organized band of from seventy-five to a hundred desperadoes inthe vicinity of Green River, at the very point that we had hoped tooccupy with our little company, the situation was serious; and withsnow on the ground, to decide what to do was an important matter.We broke camp and passed over the divide to Smith's Fork. There theSpirit seemed to forbid us going any farther, and we held a shortconsultation, which resulted in the appointment of a committee of five,of which the writer was one.

This committee followed up the creek to a point where the water comesdown through the foothills, and there, between the forks of the stream,selected a spot for winter quarters, and to build a blockhouse. Thenthey returned and made their report, which was accepted by the captainand his men. The camp was moved to the chosen ground on November 27th.We at once pitted our potatoes, the committee named being retainedto draft and superintend the erection of the blockhouse. The writermade the plans of the blockhouse, which was built with four wings, orrooms, of equal size; these, uniting at the corners, formed a centerroom, which was built two stories high. All the rooms were providedwith port holes, the center being used for storage, and the upper for aguardhouse, from which the country around could be overlooked. The planbeing accepted, every man went to work with a will, and in two weeksthe house was ready for occupancy. This was not an hour too soon, forthe weather was very cold and threatening.

On the 26th, Captain Isaac Bullock came in with fifty-three men andtwenty-five wagons. When they joined us our company was ninety-twostrong, all well armed; and when our blockhouse was completed wefelt safer than ever. The work of building was continued until allwere comfortably housed in log cabins, and a heavy log corral wasconstructed for our stock in case of an emergency.

We had not been settled down long, when some of the mountaineers paidus a visit and applauded our energy and enterprise. Notwithstandingthat, we could easily discern a feeling of envy on their part. Inconsequence, we did not feel any too safe, especially when the snowbecame deep between our friends and ourselves, for we frequentlyheard that the Ute Indians, then a very warlike and hostile tribe,were threatening to come upon us from the east, by an open country.Under the circumstances, we could see the wisdom of our militaryorganization; and as we had to have a regular guard, we found thatwe must have a sergeant thereof; accordingly, the author was electedto fill that position, and as we had several beef cattle and otherprovisions in common, a commissary or quartermaster was necessary,and the sergeant was called to fill that position also. We furtherperfected our organization by electing a captain for every ten men.We were also instructed to keep our firearms in perfect order, and tohave our powder dry, that we might be prepared for any emergency. Thusprovided for, we continued to get out fencing limber, and exploringparties were sent out, which acted as scouts, and we learned theresources of the country, and sought out every advantage.

It was on December 8 when Apostle Orson Hyde came into camp. Hepreached to us that evening, and gave many words of encouragement. Onthe 9th he examined our work and defenses. He was highly pleased withthe country, and applauded our choice of location; in fact, he seemedgenerally well pleased with what we had done. He preached again, andgave us much cheer and sound instructions. We prepared our mail inanswer to the one he had brought us, and on the 10th he set out on hisreturn trip, every one feeling blessed by his visit.

In our religious and social arrangements, we held regular meetings, hadlectures on different subjects, organized a debating society, and hadreadings. On December 26, F. M. Perkins and a party returned from SaltLake City, bringing much interesting news, and also supplies of food.On the 28th, the weather was so cold that we had to abandon outdoorwork.

Wolves became troublesome to our stock, so we put strychnine and settraps for the wild beasts, which killed several head of cattle and oneof the strongest horses in our band. The wolves were very numerous,and when they band, as they do sometimes, and did then, it is almostimpossible for any kind of stock to escape without some loss. Yet, withrifle, trap and poison, we kept about even with our ravenous enemies.

January 1, 1854, the weather was fine. On the 5th cold and storms came,and we also heard more threatening news from the Ute Indians; but thisdid not alarm us much, though it prompted us to increased diligence inlooking after our stock. There was some dissatisfaction about guardduty, as some thought there was too much of it to suit them, and feltthat others should stand two hours to their one; but that was soonsettled and we continued our studies in the Shoshone Indian dialect,having Elisha B. Ward, an old mountaineer and trapper, and his Indianwife, Sally, to assist us. Then there was an Indian family of four whogot starved out and came to us for help. We took them in, fed them,and gave them a room to themselves. Then Sally's brother, Indian John,and his wife, Madam, came, so that we took them in and fed them. Thiscondition afforded us increased facilities for studying the Shoshonedialect, which we carefully availed ourselves of.

About this time, Louis Tromley, a Frenchman, stabbed Samuel Callwell.The affair took place near Fort Bridger. Callwell was said to be at thehead of the gang of desperadoes who plied their vocation from Bridgerto Green River, and back on the emigrant route to Laramie; he was alarge, trim built man, about six feet six inches tall, and very daring.But after a bowie knife was plunged into his vitals he did not survivelong, dying in about twenty-four hours from the time he received thefatal wound. Tromley was one of Callwell's band, and made his escape.It was thought by some that if his victim had lived he would have madetrouble for us, but this quarrel gave the gang something else to do.

We continued our labors and studies; yet with all the opportunitiesat hand, there were only about six of us out of the ninety-two thatmade even fair progress in learning the Indian tongue. On February 7,we received more mail. About the 22nd we lost many of our cattle fromstarvation and cold. Deep snows fell, and drifted so that our houseswere completely buried, and from the south side we could walk rightup on top of our cabins, while on the north the snow drifted to thetops of the doors, and packed so hard in one night that it had to becut out with the spade, the large chunks being laid back on the flooruntil we could get out far enough to clear the houses. This conditioncontinued for many days. On March 8, the wind blew fearfully, and thesnow drifted so deep that we had to break snow roads, and then driveour poor cattle and horses from point to point where the snow had beenblown off, leaving the grass bare. In this way many of our animals weresaved.

On the 12th of March, a party of fifteen or twenty Shoshone Indianscame and pitched camp close to the blockhouse. They were very hungry,and we divided bread with them, that being the only kind of food wehad left; and in turn their presence afforded us better opportunityto study their language and customs, a knowledge of the latter beingessential to the successful interpreter. On March 18, more hungryIndians came. They appeared almost starved, and they begged until theybecame a nuisance; yet we divided with them, and ran ourselves shortbefore our store could be replenished. On the 27th we turned out on ageneral hunt for antelope; at this time we were living on bread andwater. Our hunt failed, as it was probable the starving Indians hadkilled or run off all the game from that part of the country. On the29th the weather was still blustery, with heavy snow. We cleared theblockhouse, and had a jolly dance, to drive dull care away. There beingno ladies to join with us, we christened it the bachelor's dance.

April 1st came, and we cleared the snow and ice from our houses. On the5th we received another mail from Salt Lake City, and on the 6th wehoisted the first liberty pole that was raised in Green River Countyto spread the Stars and Stripes of the United States of America tothe mountain breeze. On the 17th there was continuous snow and rain,making very disagreeable weather. Committees were appointed to selectand stake off the farm land, the writer being on one of the committees.We also placed out picket guards and chose men to herd our stock, andcorral them at night. On the 18th we started the plows, marking to eachmess their portion, as the committee had been directed to do. From the23rd to the 26th we had cold, snowy weather.

On the 28th President Nebeker and C. Merkley started for Salt LakeCity, and on May 1st D. R. Perkins and some others left for theirhomes. The rest of the company continued to plow and plant. On the 7thit snowed, and on the 8th Apostle Orson Hyde came with twenty-five newmen, bringing us a fresh supply of provisions. This supply was verymuch appreciated, for we were, and had been for some weeks, livingon bread alone. The new company also brought our mail. I had elevenletters, all containing good news from home.

Elder Hyde preached to us on the evening of the 9th, and we had goodcheer; everyone seemed to be encouraged. We also held a council meetingto select Elders to go to the Indian camps, and learn as near aspossible the feeling of the red men, and their movements, and to carryout the object of our mission. In that meeting, Elder Hyde called onthe council for four or five Elders to volunteer to go east and huntup the Indian camps. There were seven volunteered, namely, E. B. Ward,Isaac Bullock, John Harvey, J. Arnold, W. S. Muir, James S. Brown andone other whose name I have lost. Elder Hyde said that E. B. Ward,Isaac Bullock, and James S. Brown were three accepted from that list,while James Davis was taken for the fourth. The persons named were thensustained by the vote of the council, without a dissenting voice. ElderHyde gave us some instructions, and said the party would start in oneweek from that day, or as much sooner as they chose.

The council meeting then adjourned, and Judge W. I. Appleby organizedthe county of Green River by appointing the officers therefor, Mr.Appleby having been duly commissioned as judge, and authorized to actin the capacity in which he did.

CHAPTER XLI.

SET APART BY ELDER HYDE FOR OUR SPECIAL MISSION—BLESSING CONFERREDON THE WRITER—DISCONTENT IN CAMP—UNITY AGAIN PREVAILS—START ON OURJOURNEY—WARNED AT GREEN RIVER TO GO NO FARTHER—NOT DETERRED FROMPERFORMING OUR MISSION—PROCEED ON OUR JOURNEY—FUTILE CHASE AFTERBUFFALO—SCARCITY OF WATER—A WELCOME SNOW STORM—REACH THE CAMP OFWASHAKIE, THE SHOSHONE CHIEF—RECEIVED WITH CAUTION—TELL THE CHIEF THEOBJECT OF OUR VISIT—GIVE HIM BREAD AND SUGAR—BOILED BUFFALO FOR ANEPICURE—INDIAN POWWOW CALLED—PROCEEDINGS AT THE COUNCIL—OBJECTIONTO ONE OF OUR PROPOSITIONS, WHICH WE WERE NOT ANNOYED AT—RECITAL OFHOW GOVERNMENT AGENTS SOUGHT TO SUPPLANT WASHAKIE AS CHIEF—WASHAKIE AGREAT ORATOR.

ANOTHER meeting was held on the 10th of May, and Elder Hyde preachedagain. Then he called on those who had been selected for the mission,told us to be wise as serpents and harmless as doves, to be cautiousand do all the good that we could to the red men, and said that Godwould bless us. He also said, "I do not know which to appoint for theleader, Brother Brown or Brother Bullock. They are both good men, butas Brother Bullock is the eldest, he may have more experience." Hethen blessed us, and promised me in my blessing that angels should gobefore me, the visions of the Lord should be open to my view, and noweapon that was raised against me should prosper, but that I should goforth in the power and demonstration of the Lord God, and be mightyin gathering Israel. Then he further instructed the party, and turnedagain to me, pronouncing more blessings in line with those he hadgiven. Elder Hyde then started on his return trip home, and we preparedourselves as speedily as consistent for our expedition into a countrymostly unknown to us.

April 11th and 12th were blustery, and there was snow. A reaction ofspirit took place among the brethren of the camp, or probably it wouldbe more proper to say that another spirit came upon the camp—a spiritof great discontent. For a time it seemed as if it would break up themission, but finally it was overcome, and all went well again.

On the 13th of April we set out on our journey, and went to GreenRiver the first day, through rain and sleet part of the time. AtGreen River we found about thirty of the roughest kind of mountainmen, engaged in drinking, gambling and carousing. Some Frenchmen,Mexicans or "Greasers," Indians, half-breeds, and some Americans of alow class, associated there, and insisted on us dining with them, andwere very hospitable. They warned us not to venture any farther in thedirection that we were going, saying that if we did so we would notreturn alive—that there would not be a "grease spot" left of us. Thisstatement corresponded with what we had heard before, yet it did notdeter us. There were in the crowd, Joshua Terry, also four Spaniardsfrom the west, bound for Taos, New Mexico. They joined us, and wecrossed the river, which was so deep that it was all that we possiblycould do to ford it. The venture was harder than we expected it to be,but we succeeded, and struck out for the head of Bitter Creek, viaPilot Butte, making all the distance consistent with the condition ofour animals. When we reached Bitter Creek, we followed up to the head,then bore to the southeast, crossing a high, dry country, for two dayswithout water, then came in sight of a small herd of buffalo.

The Mexicans, with Ward and Davis, gave chase to the herd, whileBullock and I kept on our course with the pack animals, guided acrossthe plains by mountain peaks and openings in the range of mountains.The hunters did not rejoin us until the latter part of the next day.They succeeded in killing one poor buffalo bull, and were so thirstythat they opened the tripe and drank the liquid it contained, to savetheir lives, for they were so far gone as not to be able to bring anyportion of the carcass to camp. That day we came across a shallow poolof water, where we rested a short time.

We had been told that by crossing the country in the direction we weregoing we would be sure to strike the Indian trail leading in toward theheadwaters of the Platte River; consequently we continued on till wecame to the main divide between the waters of the east and the west.There Joshua Terry and the Spaniards parted with us, and we kept alongon the divide, or summit of the Rocky Mountains, between the Platte andthe Rio Grande, while they passed over. That night we camped on thedivide, and had a snowstorm on us, in which we were fortunate, as bythat means we obtained water for ourselves and animals. The next daywe struck the trail of a few Indians, and by following it up five orsix miles reached another trail which it ran into. This we continued tofollow until 3 p.m., when we came to the camp of Washakie, the ShoshoneIndian chief.

The first Indian we met would not speak when we accosted him. He shookhis head, and pointed to the chief's lodge. That spirit of "mum" seemedto pervade the entire camp, and when we rode up in front of the chief'slodge, that Indian dignitary came out, bowed, and shook hands with eachone of us, but without uttering a word. By gestures he invited us todismount, come in, sit down, and tell the truth regarding our errand tohis camp, but no lies. Then he had some clean, nice robes spread forus. At the same time his women folks came out, taking our horses by thebits. We dismounted, and took seats as invited. The chief and ourselveswere all "mum" until the horses had been unsaddled, and everythingbelonging to us had been put under the bottom of the lodge, just to therear of where we sat.

These proceedings being over, the chief said: "Who are you, from wheredo you come, and what is your errand to my country?" Then, by gestures,he said, "Tell me the truth; do not tell me any lies, nor talk anycrooked talk." Here he paused, and, by motions, invited us to reply.

We told him we were Mormons, from the Salt Lake country, sent by thebig Mormon captain, to make the acquaintance of him and his people,that we might talk and be friendly with them, as we wished them to befriendly with us and with all good people, as also with all the Indiantribes, for we all had one Peap (father), and it was not pleasing toHim to see His children nabitink (fight). We said the Great Father hadtold our chief many things about all the Indian tribes, and one partof our business was to learn better the Indian dialects, manners andcustoms, so that we could tell the Indians what the Great Spirit hadtold our big captain about them. Another part was to warn them thatit would not be many snows before the game of their country wouldbe killed off or disappear, and we wished to tell them, and to showthem how to till the earth, and raise stock, and build houses, likethe white man did, so that when the game was all gone their wives andchildren would not starve to death. We said that some of us might wantto come out into his country and marry some of their good daughters andrear families by them. We would educate them, so they could read somegood books that we had, and from them they could learn more about theGreat Father, or Spirit.

Washakie sat and listened very attentively until we were through, whenhe said, "Wait a while. My little children are very hungry for some ofthe white man's food, and they want some sugar."

At that we gave him all the bread and sugar we had. He passed it tohis wife, who in turn distributed it to the hungry little ones. Then,without another word, the chief walked out, but soon returned. His wifethen set a camp kettle partly filled with buffalo beef that had beenpartially dried.

If I should tell the stranger to Indian customs how it was seasoned, Idoubt not he would say. "I could not eat of such food. I know I shouldstarve to death first." But stop, my friend, do not be too positiveabout that. These Indians have a custom among them that when they killa buffalo they skin it, leaving the carcass on the hide; then theyslice the flesh in long strips, remove the bones, turn the contents ofthe tripe over the meat, thoroughly knead or mix it all through thebeef, and, with a slight shake, hang the meat on a horse rope or lay iton some sticks for a few hours; then they put it into a camp kettle andboil it, when it is ready for their guests. Such was part of the lifeon the great western plains in 1854.

Supper over, the council of the camp began to file in; the pipe waslit, and a rude figure of some of the planets drawn in the ashes of thefire that occupied the center of the lodge. Then the old man sittingon the left of the chief held the pipe, we having been seated on theright of the chief. The latter commenced, and told the story of ourvisit, from the time we came into the lodge up to that moment. It wastold without interruption, and then the pipe was started on its way,following the course of the sun. Every man except the one holding thepipe put his hand over his mouth, and sat perfectly silent and still.The one with the pipe took from one to three long draws, allowing thesmoke from the last one to escape gradually through his nostrils, atthe same time passing the pipe with his right hand to the next person;then, if he had anything to say, he did it in as few words as possible,and put his hand over his mouth, thus signifying that he had no more tosay. Occasionally some old man, when he took the pipe, made some signsabove and in front of him, struck himself on the breast and offereda few words of prayer. Thus the pipe was whiffed by all the Indiansof the council, and was then passed into the hands of the white men,who, in turn, took a whiff as a vow of peace and friendship. Thenthe pipe went to the chief, who glanced around the circle, and, asevery man's hand was over his mouth, the chief summed up the subjectin a few words, but always to the point. There being no appeal fromthis decision, it is usual at the conclusion of councils for some onepresent to walk through the camp and cry aloud that portion intendedfor the public, or if it is an order for the whole camp, they get it inthe same way. This crier was called the high ranger of the camp.

In our case, the only objection that was raised to our proposition waswhen we suggested that some of us might want to take some of the youngIndian women for wives. One old and wise counselor said, "No, for wehave not got daughters enough for our own men, and we cannot afford togive our daughters to the white man, but we are willing to give himan Indian girl for a white girl. I cannot see why a white man wantsan Indian girl. They are dirty, ugly, stubborn and cross, and it is astrange idea for white men to want such wives. But I can see why anIndian wants a white woman." Then the old man drew a graphic picture ofthe contrast he was making, and we gave up that point without pursuingour suit farther. Chief Washakie, however, said the white men mightlook around, and if any one of us found a girl that would go with him,it would be all right, but the Indians must have the same privilegeamong the white men. With this the council ended.

At that time Washakie told us that only a few snows before then he waschief of all the Shoshones, and the Indians acknowledged him as such,but he was called to Fort Laramie, to have a talk with the agents ofthe big father at Washington, and to receive blankets and many otherthings. There the agents called a quiet, unobtrusive man, who never hadbeen a chief, nor was in the line of chiefs, and designated him as headof the Shoshones, telling the Indians they must have him as chief, andrespect him as such, and that they, the agents, would recognize him inthat position, and through him they would do all government business.Then the agents passed out a great quantity of blankets and otherIndian goods, through their appointed chief. In this act, the Indianssaw that the agents had chosen a favorite of their own, so the red mencalled him "Tavendu-wets" (the white man's child), but never recognizedhim as chief.

That act of the government agents was the opening wedge to divide theShoshone tribe into discontented factions, and thereby weaken it.Possibly that was the purpose in view, for before that the tribe wasvery powerful, with a chief at their head unexcelled for bravery, skilland farsightedness. Chief Washakie was a bold, noble, hospitable, andhonorable man. As an orator, I think he surpassed any man I ever met.

CHAPTER XLII.

LEAVE WASHAKIE'S CAMP FOR THE OTHER PORTION OF THE SHOSHONETRIBE—INDIAN GUIDE LEAVES US—FOLLOWING A TRAIL—SIGHT THE OTHERCAMP—WAR SONGS AND DANCES—INDIANS PREPARING FOR WAR—CHIEFGIVES UP HIS LODGE TO US, WARNING US OF MEN IN HIS CAMP HE CANNOTCONTROL—INDIAN BRAVES IN WAR PAINT—SURROUNDED BY FIFTEEN HUNDREDOR TWO THOUSAND INDIANS—LEARN THAT L. B. RYAN, A WHITE DESPERADOCHIEF, IS IN CAMP, AND HAS SWORN VENGEANCE ON MORMONS—ESCAPE SEEMSIMPOSSIBLE, BUT WE TRUST IN GOD—RETIRE FOR THE NIGHT—RYAN AND SEVENWARRIORS AT OUR LODGE—RYAN ENTERS AND DEMANDS TO KNOW WHERE WE AREFROM, AND OUR BUSINESS—HE IS TOLD, THREATENS US, AND SUMMONS HISINDIAN BRAVES INSIDE OUR LODGE—THOUGH THE ENEMY ARE TWO TO ONE,WE ARE READY FOR THEM—PREPARE FOR A FIGHT TO THE DEATH—RYAN ANDHIS MEN LEAVE THE LODGE—WAR DANCE OUTSIDE—WE CONCLUDE TO SELL OURLIVES AS DEARLY AS POSSIBLE—WAR PARTY APPROACH THE LODGE AND SLITIT IN A NUMBER OF PLACES, THEN SUDDENLY DEPART—OUR LIVES BEINGSPARED, WE REMAIN IN CAMP TILL NEXT DAY—THE CHIEF BEFRIENDS US,WARNING US NOT TO RETURN THE WAY WE CAME—DISPUTE AS TO THE ROUTEOF TRAVEL, AND HOW IT IS SETTLED—SATISFIED THAT RYAN INTENDED TOAMBUSH US—RAINSTORM OBLITERATES OUR TRACKS—CAMP IN THE RAIN—ON THEALERT FOR AN ENEMY—SHOOT A BUFFALO—WARD AND DAVIS GIVE CHASE, WHILEBULLOCK AND I CONTINUE ON OUR ROUTE—CAMP AT A WASH—BULLOCK TAKENVERY ILL—A TERRIBLE NIGHT—WARD AND DAVIS NOT RETURNING BY MORNING,WE MOVE ON—FEAR THAT BULLOCK WILL DIE—DISCOVER OUR COMRADES IN THECANYON—BEING HUNGRY, WE OVEREAT—ANOTHER NIGHT OF SICKNESS—EMERGEFROM THE CANYON—PRESS FORWARD TO GREEN RIVER—WELCOMED BYFRIENDS—THREE OF OUR PARTY GO ONTO FORT SUPPLY, AND I REMAIN TO MEETCHIEF WASHAKIE.

THE morning after the council, Chief Washakie asked us where we weregoing to from his camp. We said we wished to go to White Man's Child'scamp of Shoshones. Said he, "Maybe that is good, maybe not. I don'tknow. I hear there are bad men over there. I don't know." As therewas no trail leading to that camp, we asked him to send a guide withus. He replied, "Maybe one go." Our horses having been brought up,we saddled them, and after a good friendly shake of the hand of thechief and of some of his council, we started to the southeast, with ayoung brave on the lead. When we had traveled about twenty miles, ourguide disappeared over a ridge, but as we had come to a trail it didnot matter to us so long as we could see pony tracks to follow. Stilla feeling of mistrust lurked within us, as it had done all day. Wediscussed the matter, but could see no other way open than to pressforward.

Soon we ascended a hill, from the top of which we could hear a drum,then many voices in a war song. As we rounded a little point of thehill we saw numerous lodges, and what appeared to be thousands ofIndians. A large proportion of the latter were dancing and singingsongs. About this time we felt a heavy feeling, and were certain thatthe spirit of murder was in the Indian camp. Everybody we met until wecame to the chief's lodge looked as if they were going to war, judgingby the expression of their eyes.

The chief came slowly out, coolly shook hands with us, ordered ourstock taken care of, and a dish of boiled meat set before us. Then hisfamily left the lodge, taking their effects, leaving only three robesfor us. The sun was just setting, and the chief said we could occupyhis lodge that night, as he was going away, being afraid to stop there,as there were men in camp that he could not control. Then he walked offand out of sight.

At this time three braves came by in their war paint, stepping alongvery lightly, and stripped and armed as if ready for a fight. They tooka sharp glance at us, then passed on up the creek, to where the singingand dancing were going on. Then war whoops rent the air, and we werealone around the campfire.

There we were, surrounded by three hundred Indian lodges, and betweenfifteen hundred and two thousand Indians, principally Shoshones,though there were Cheyennes and Arapahoes mixed with them, for tradingpurposes, we supposed. It was dark, our horses had been taken away, weknew not where, and we were between four and five hundred miles fromany source of protection, so far as we knew. The chief had confessedhis inability to control some men in his camp, and had acknowledgedthat he was afraid to stop in his own lodge, he and his family seekingsafer quarters. We were also without food, and the shadow of deathseemed to hover over and close around us, while the war song and dancewere heard plainly. We had also learned that L. B. Ryan, successor toSamuel Callwell as chief of the organized band of desperadoes, wasat that time beating up and organizing a war party to carry on hisnefarious work of robbery, and that he had sworn vengeance on the firstMormons that he met. We believed that he was the uncontrollable powerthat the chief had referred to.

Under these circumstances, it was a grave question as to what we coulddo for the best. Escape by flight was impossible, and as for attemptingto fight three hundred to one, that was folly. Then what should we do?Put our trust in God, and go to bed, and if we were killed we wouldn'thave to fall. This was our conclusion, so we attended prayers, andretired about 8 o'clock.

Soon the drum and some kind of whistle were heard drawing closer tous. In a few minutes our outdoor fire was surrounded by L. B. Ryan andseven young warriors, all well armed with Colt's revolvers. The Indianshad bows and arrows in hand, ready for action. Their paleface companionundoubtedly was the leader.

After a brief pause, Ryan came into the lodge and squatted down justopposite to where Bullock and I lay. He picked up a stick of wood, andwith a cutlass chipped off pieces and stirred up the coals, startinga bright light. Then he said. "Gentlemen, where do you hail from, andwhat is your business here?"

Mr. Bullock being spokesman, informed him that we were from Utah,and our business in part was to get acquainted with the Indians, toascertain the openings for trade, and to look out the resources of thecountry.

Ryan continued, "Gentlemen, if you have got any papers for me, bringthem out. I have been robbed by the Mormons of my bottom dollar, and bythe eternal gods I am going to have revenge."

He then smote the billet of wood a heavy blow, at which signal theseven braves filed into the lodge, and squatted in order, with bowstightly corded, and arrows in hand. Ward, Davis, and I, were fullyprepared to meet the attack as best we could. Bullock having thetalking to do, was not so well prepared, until I rubbed his ribs withmy bowie knife handle, when he got ready as quickly as possible. Therewere eight against four, all inside of one Indian lodge, watching forthe signal from Ryan, and we would have acted promptly on his signal,or that of one of his braves, and without doubt would have got ourshare of the game, in exchanging lead for arrows. It is possible thatRyan took the same view, for he suddenly rose up and walked out, thewarriors following him. They closed the lodge door behind them, thusgiving us the opportunity to consult, while they held their council anddanced around the fire and sang.

We hastily concluded that if they entered again it would be to massacreour party, and that if they began to come in we would fire on them themoment they opened the deerskin door. I, being in the most convenientposition, was to give the first shot, presuming that Ryan would bein the lead, and we would be sure to dispose of him in that way.Meanwhile, all the rest would fire into the war party, whose shadowscould be seen through the lodge, as they were between it and a bigoutdoor fire. The next move on our part was for Davis, who lay mostconvenient to the back part of the lodge, to make with his knife aslarge an opening as possible in the lodge, that we might escape throughit into the creek that passed near by, the banks of which were only sixor eight feet high. Our decision was that the moment we left the lodgeevery man was to try and if possible make his escape, no matter whatthe conditions might be, so that if either one of us could get away,and tell where he last saw the rest, it might be some satisfaction toour friends and relatives. Then each man took the most easy position toact his part, made ready his firelock, and held it with finger on thetrigger.

Just then the party outside came around in their dance circle, straightfor the lodge door, Ryan in the lead. They sang and danced right up tothe door, but did not lift it. Next they circled around the lodge, andwith their scalping knives, or some other sharp instruments, slit thelodge in a number of places. Then, as they came around to the front,they gave a war whoop, and passed up the creek in the direction whencethey came. Thus we still lived, and were spared the awful necessity ofshedding man's blood, even in self-defense, thanks be to God for Hisprotection and mercies. Still the clouds hung so low, and so thicklyaround, that we could not feel safe in an attempt to leave camp.

Next morning the chief sent us some boiled buffalo beef, and called andtalked a few moments. He impressed us with the fact that the dangerwas not yet over, and that we were safer in his lodge and camp thanwe would be out of it, so we contented ourselves as best we could byloitering around, while the drum and the whistling reeds of the warparty, and the wild shouts, continued all day. At last night came, andwe turned in, as we had done the evening before, with all our clothes,arms and boots on.

A WAR PARTY OF SHOSHONES DANCING AROUND THEIR PRISONERS WHILE IN THE CHIEF'S LODGE

Nothing occurred that night to mar our peace, but the ever threateningdin of the drum and the savage yell of the red man. Again the morninglight broke over us, and our scalps were still in place, but the veryelements seemed to say, "Stay in camp." The Spirit whispered to everyone of us the same thing. We were a unit, and therefore lingered in theplace, closely watching every move.

Finally the chief came, and our horses were brought. This was at about1 o'clock p.m. Then, as plainly as ever we saw the clouds in thefirmament break and scatter, we felt the clouds of death begin to part.We waited no longer; our horses were saddled, packs were put in place,and the chief gave us a slight indication, letting us understand thatit was a good time to move. At that moment Ryan and his allies came up,apparently changed in their behavior. Ryan inquired of us by what routewe intended to return. Mr. Bullock said we expected to go to Washakie'scamp, and thence back by the same route we had come on. Immediately thechief stepped away into the brush, we mounted, and saying good-bye,started down the creek.

A few moments later, as we rounded a bend, the chief popped out of thebrush just in front of and so as to meet us. Without seeming to noticeus in the least, he said, "Do not go the way you said you would, forthere are men in my camp that I cannot control." Brother Bullock didnot catch the idea, but the other three of us did. We understood hisaction as well as his words. Soon we came to where we had got to decidewhich course we would take. Brother Bullock was determined to keep hisword, and go by the route that he had told Ryan he would do, but thethree others were a unit in insisting on taking another way. We toldhim we understood perfectly the chief, that if we went by that route wewould be ambushed, and every soul of us would be killed. Still BrotherBullock insisted on keeping his word with the Indians; and more, he hadpromised Washakie that he would return by his camp. Then Ward and Daviscame straight out and said they knew that meant death, and they wouldnot follow on that trail; so they started off another way.

At this juncture I said: "Brother Bullock, I never deserted myfile-leader in my life, and I will not do it now. I will follow you tothe death, for I am certain that path leads there, and if you persistin going that way I will follow, and will claim my blood at your hands,for the others, the three of us, see alike." Then Ward and Davis turnedand said that on the same conditions as those I had named they would gowith Brother Bullock; but the latter said the price was too great, andhe would go with us, but he very much regretted breaking his word withthe red man.

Every minute was precious at that time. We were well satisfied thatRyan would not shrink to do from ambush what he had hesitated to do inthe chief's lodge, and that if he could strike our trail he would do itto the death; so we made the best speed consistent with the conditionssurrounding us.

As we were passing up the long slope of the mountain, and while yetalmost in sight of the camp, a small, dense, black cloud arose in thesouth. It passed in our rear and over the Indian camp, and torrents ofrain seemed to fall there, while we were caught only in the storm'sedge. Thus our tracks were completely obliterated. Soon we came into atrail leading along our way, and followed it to quite a bold runningcreek. As the rain had ceased where we were, to further elude ourenemies we followed up in the bed of the creek until we came to a rockyridge which led us up among the cliffs, where it would be difficultfor any one to follow us and make much headway. While there among therocks, Ward and Davis saw an old mountain sheep, which they pursuedand captured, but he fell in a place so difficult of access, and nightcoming on, that it was impossible to get but a small portion of him.Bullock and I kept on our course, and were overtaken by our companionsjust at dark.

We pushed on as quickly as possible, for the rain was coming on intorrents. At last the night became so densely dark that we could onlykeep together by the noise of our camp equipage, and by talking. It wasimpossible to see where we were going, so we camped in a sag. It rainedso hard that it was with much work that we started a fire, and then itwas quite as difficult to keep it going till we could frizzle a morselof the old ram; so each bolted his rations half raw, and having hobbledour animals securely, we rolled ourselves in half-wet blankets and laiddown or the ground, which already had been soaked to the consistency ofmud, and we wallowed there until next morning. Then two of us broughtup and saddled horses, while the other two frizzled a little more ofthe ram, which was bolted, as before, for it was too tough to chew ina way anything like satisfactory. We then wrung our blankets, for theywere full of water, as in the place where we had laid down the waterwas half shoetop deep.

By sunrise we were mounted, feeling satisfied that our track of theday before had been covered up, and thirty miles of our flight wasbehind us. The country was high and barren, but we avoided conspicuouspoints, and traveled the most secluded way, ever on the alert to catchthe first sight of an enemy, or of any kind of game, for our portion offlesh of the ram of the Rockies had disappeared.

In the after part of the day the sun shone. This was while we werecrossing the head of an open flat, in a dry country, with a dry gullycoursing down through it. This gully was fringed with an abundantgrowth of sagebrush, and as we looked down the flat we saw some animalscoming out from a bend in the gully. We ascertained to our delight thatthere were seven buffaloes. Our decision was to spare no efforts in anendeavor to secure one of the animals, for this was a rare chance, asthe Indians had hunted every bit of game that it was possible for themto do in that part of the country.

To accomplish our most desirable object at this particular time, Ward,Davis and I secured our horses, leaving Bullock to guard them andthe pack mules. The three of us made our way down the gulch, and asthe wind came to us from the buffaloes, there was no danger of themscenting us. Thus we secured an excellent position, and waiting a fewminutes for them to feed to within about sixty yards of us, we decidedon the one that had the sleekest coat, thinking he would be the bestbeef; for all were very poor old bulls, and we did not wish to injuremore than we needed to keep us from starvation. We all took deliberateaim, and three rifles rang out as one. The only result visible to uswas that the game wheeled, and ran directly on the back track, leavingus without even a hope of buffalo meat until we followed on their trailseventy or eighty rods. There we found where one animal had cast hiscud, and later we saw some blood splattered about. All felt sure we hadhit the buffalo, for each knew how his rifle shot, and said he neverdrew a nicer bead on an animal in his life. Then Ward and Davis gottheir horses and gave chase, as the game had run almost parallel withour route toward the notch in the mountains for which we were aiming.

Bullock and I kept on the course our party had marked out to travel,but before we reached the mountain pass we were heading for, night andrain came on, and we had to camp in an open greasewood plain. Coming toa very deep wash that had good feed in it, we concluded to hobble ouranimals in the wash. It was difficult to get our stock in, as the bankswere very steep, but at last we succeeded in getting them down, andfelt that they were tolerably safe for the night, with some watching.We gathered a little greasewood, for there was no other fuel, and triedto get a tire started in the rain and darkness.

During this time, Bullock began to have cramps, in the stomach andbowels, and then in his limbs, and soon he was taken with a heavychill. It seemed that he would die, in spite of all that I could dofor him. I rubbed him, prayed for him, and put him in a pack of wetblankets, for we had no other, and were without any earthly comfort forsuch an emergency. At last I caught some rain in the frying-pan, thengot hold of our cracker sack, in which was about two tablespoonfuls ofcrumbs and dust that had rubbed off the crackers. I heated the water,put the crumbs in, and brought the mixture to a boil, stirring it sothat it appeared something like gruel, and gave it to the sick man,who became easier. Then I went out, feeling my way, to see what hadbecome of our stock, and got so far off in the darkness that I hadgreat difficulty in finding my way back to my sick companion, but aftermuch anxiety and bother I found him suffering intensely. I set to workrubbing him and encouraging him the best I could. I spent the entirenight in attending to him and watching the stock.

Morning came, and still the hunters were unheard of. At one time Ialmost despaired of the sick man's life, and thought, if he died,what could I do with him, so far away from help. I could not take himhome, neither could I put him out of reach of wild beasts, for I hadno spade, pickaxe or shovel; nor was there timber in sight to crematehim. I had not a mouthful of food, and what had become of our partners,Ward and Davis, I could not tell. Then came the reaction of the spirit,and the thought that I must do the best that I could. It would not doto despair. I must pray for the patient, pack up, and get out of thatplace.

The patient seemed to rally with the dawn of day, and by sunrise wewere on our way, and entered the canyon we had been heading for. Wesaw no signs of our friends until we reached their camp in the canyon,for it had rained so heavily as to obliterate the horse tracks. Asthey had gone on, we were not quite sure that it was their camp andtracks, and the canyon afforded excellent opportunity for ambush. Butwe were there and must go through. The sick man held up with wonderfulfortitude, though suffering greatly. About 2 p.m. we sighted ourcomrades, the buffalo hunters. They mistook us for enemies and fled,until they found a convenient place to hide themselves and horses, andwhere they watched until they saw the gleaming of the sunlight upon ourrifle barrels. Then they recognized us, and as we came up we had a warmgreeting.

Being together once more we hid our animals among the cedars, andselected our camp with care, as it was night. Our hunters had beensuccessful, after a chase of ten miles, in getting the buffalo; theyhad a hard and hazardous fight with the wounded animal, and it tookthem till after dark before they could get what buffalo meat they couldcarry on their horses. They also had a very severe night of it; butthe lost were found, and with plenty of buffalo meat in camp we werethankful.

We broiled and ate, boiled and ate and ate raw liver, and marrow out ofthe bones; for be known that men in the condition we were, with severehunger, do not always realize how much they have eaten until theyeat too much. So it was with us. When we were through with the meal,we prepared to "jerk" the remainder of the beef, but before that wasdone my three companions were attacked with vomiting and purging; thenfollowed chills and cramps, and for about four or five hours it seemedthey might all die. I could not say which would go first, and theprevious night's experience was reiterated. I confess that I had beenguilty of as much folly and unreason as they, but being more robustthan the others, I could endure more than they; but I had the very samekind of an attack as they did, before the journey was over.

When morning came, a sicker and a harder looking lot of men seldomis seen in the mountains. Yet we must travel, so passed through thatcanyon out onto an open plain, leaving the creek to the south of us.In the afternoon we came to a smooth clay grade, on which were freshhorse and moccasin tracks, and four large capital letters, in English;I think they were N, W, H and E. We concluded they had been marked outwith a sharp stick, but not in a manner intelligible to us, so we weresuspicious and cautiously pushed on to a place of shelter and rest.

It was on the 1st day of June that we reached the Middle Ferry on GreenRiver, Green River County, Utah. There we met with W. I. Appleby,probate judge, Hosea Stout, prosecuting attorney, William Hickman,sheriff, Captain Hawley, the ferryman, and his family and some others.They did not have to be told what we most needed, but supplied withliberal hand our necessities, for all were aware that the object ofour mission had been to protect just such as they, and the innocentimmigrants, and their property, from not only the raids of the red men,but also from the more wicked and baser white brigands.

We rested at Green River until the 4th of June, when my fellowmissionaries left for Fort Supply. I remained as interpreter, and tofill our appointment with Chief Washakie, who was to be at the ferry byJuly 15.

CHAPTER XLIII.

ENGAGED AS INTERPRETER—CLASS OF PEOPLE AT GREEN RIVER—APPOINTEDDEPUTY SHERIFF—DROVER THREATENS TO KILL BOATMEN—ARREST ORDERED—RIDEINTO THE OUTLAWS' CAMP—BLUFFING THE CAPTAIN—A PERILOUSSITUATION—PARLEY WITH DROVERS—COMPROMISE EFFECTED—DEALING WITHLAW-BREAKERS—"BILL" HICKMAN AS SHERIFF—SWIMMING CATTLE OVER GREENRIVER—A DROVER'S FAILURE—WRITER EMPLOYED TO GET CATTLE OVER—HOW ITIS DONE—SECRET OF SUCCESS—ARRIVAL OF WASHAKIE—THE FERRYMAN OFFENDSHIM—THE ANGRY INDIAN SWEARS VENGEANCE ON THE WHITE MAN—HIS PARTINGTHREAT—IN PERIL OF AN INDIAN MASSACRE.

AS I had become a fairly good interpreter, the ferry company proposedto pay my board at Green River while I stayed, as there was no one elsethere who could converse with the Indians. The country was new andwild, and while there were some very good people, the road was linedwith California immigrants and drovers, many of them of a very roughclass, to say the best of them. They would camp a day or two on theriver, and drink, gamble and fight; then the traders and rough mountainmen, half-caste Indians, French and Spaniards, were numerous; therewere also blacksmith and repair shops, whisky saloons, gambling tables,and sometimes there would be a perfect jam of wagons and cattle, andtwo or three hundred men. There were quarrels and fights, and oftenmen would be shot or stabbed. As the court had been organized onlyabout two months, it was almost impossible for the sheriff or anyother officer to serve a writ or order of court, unless he had a posseto back him. Sometimes the ferryman at the Upper Ferry would be runoff his post, and a company of mountain men would run the ferry andtake the money, and it would require every man that was on the sideof law and order to back the officer. In this situation I, though amissionary, was summoned to take charge of a posse of men to assist thesheriff in making arrests.

One time there came a man with four thousand head of cattle. He crossedthe river, passed down about four miles and camped under a steep sandbluff. He had missed a calf, and sent a man back for it. A smallparty of Indians, passing along that way, had picked up the animaland carried it off, supposing that the drovers had abandoned it. Theman who had been sent for the calf, not finding it, rode up to theferry and demanded the animal of the boatmen. These told him they didnot have his calf, whereupon he swore at them, called them liars andthieves, and threatened to kill them, at the same time leveling hisdouble-barreled shotgun at them.

Judge Appleby happened to be standing within a few feet of the boatmen,and heard the whole conversation. He ordered the sheriff to take theman, dead or alive. The sheriff summoned me to his aid, and we startedat once for the culprit. When we got to within four rods of him hecalled out, "Do you want anything of me, gentlemen?" The sheriff said,"Yes; I am the sheriff, and you are my prisoner." The man being onhorseback, defied the sheriff and fled. We fired two shots in the air,thinking he would surrender, but he did not, and the sheriff pressedinto service the horses of two immigrants near by, and he and I pursuedthe fugitive, following him about four miles, where we suddenly cameupon his camp of twenty-four men, armed with double-barrelled shotguns.

The man having had considerably the start of us, had time to get thecamp rallied and ready for action, telling them that two men had shotat and were then in hot pursuit of him. We were not aware of his campbeing there until we reached the brow of the bluff; then our onlychance was to ride boldly down into the camp, which we did, the sheriffshouting, "Hold on, gentlemen! I am the sheriff of this county." Thecaptain of the camp, being a cool-headed and fearless man, said to hismen, "Hold on, boys, wait for the word."

The moment we got into camp we dismounted, and I presume that at leasta dozen guns were leveled at us, their holders being greatly excited,and swearing death to us if we dared to lay a finger on the fugitive,or on any other person in the camp. The captain, however, said, "Holdon, boys! Let's hear what these men have to say." Then the sheriff saidthe man (pointing to the culprit) had committed an offense against thelaw, in threatening the lives of the boatmen, and leveling his gun asif to carry out the threat, and the sheriff had been ordered by thejudge to arrest him, but he had defied the officer and fled. "But,"said the captain, "you shot at him." To this the sheriff replied, "Wecalled on him to halt, and as he refused to obey, a couple of shotswere fired over his head to make him stop, but he did not do so, and wefollowed him to your camp. I now demand him of you as his captain."

At this the captain declared that the sheriff had shot at his man andhad scared him almost to death. He pointed to the man, who was shakingas if he had a treble shock of the ague, and continued that beforethe sheriff should take him every drop of blood in the camp should beshed. The men brawled out, "Hear! Hear!" when the sheriff said, "Allright, Captain. You may get away with us two, but we have betweenseventy-five and one hundred men just over the hills here, and in lessthan twenty-four hours we will have you and every man in your camp, andyour stock will have to foot the bill."

Thereupon the captain made response that he would come and answerfor his man, but the sheriff could not take him. Thus the matter wascompromised subject to the court's approval. The captain promised to beat the judge's within two hours, and was there. So the whole matter wassettled without bloodshed.

This incident is only an illustration of what had to be met every fewdays, in which men would refuse to yield to the law until they had todo so or die, and many were the times that we had to force them downwith the revolver, when, if we had not had "the drop" on them theywould not have yielded. We met men face to face, with deadly weapons,and if it had not been for the cunning and the cool head of "Bill"Hickman, as he was commonly called, blood would have been shed morethan once when it was avoided. I speak of "Bill" Hickman as I foundhim in the short time I was with him. In his official capacity he wascunning, and was always ready to support the law while I was with himon Green River.

One day about 10 o'clock a.m., a herd of four hundred head of cattlecame up, and the owners ferried their wagons across the river. Thenthey tried to swim their cattle over but could not do so. I stood byand watched their futile efforts until I observed the reason the cattlewould not go across. Then I attempted to tell the captain that he couldnot swim his stock with the sun shining in their faces. The captainbeing one of those self-sufficient men often met with, rather snubbedme, saying, "I have handled cattle before today." I turned away,remarking that he never would get his cattle across in that manner, andsaying that I could put every head over at the first attempt.

Some one repeated to the "boss" what I had said, and asked him why hedid not get that mountaineer to help, as he understood the businessbetter than anyone else on the river. "Well," he said, "we will makeanother try, and if we do not succeed, we will see what he can do." Thetrial was another failure. Then he came to me and said, "Cap., whatwill you charge me to swim those cattle, and insure me against loss?"I answered, "You have wearied your cattle and fooled them so much thatit will be more trouble now than at first, but if you will drive yourstock out on that 'bottom' and call your men away from them, I willswim them and insure every hoof, for twenty-five cents a head." Saidhe, "I will do it, for it will cost fifty cents a head to cross them inthe boat. So you will take charge of them on the 'bottom?'"

"Yes," said I, "so you do not let them scatter too much."

The river was booming, but I knew of a place where the bank was threeor four feet higher than the water, and where the stream ran swiftly,setting across to where the cattle would reach a gradual slope. I thenwent to a camp of Indians near by, and hired four of them to assistme. They stripped and mounted their ponies with their robes aboutthem. One went between the cattle and the river, so as to lead, andthe others circled around the stock and got them all headed toward theplace designated for them to take to the water. Then they caused thecattle to increase their speed until they were on the gallop, when theIndians gave a few yells and shook their robes, the man in the leadleaped his horse into the river, and every hoof took to the water,and were across safe and sound within thirty minutes from the timethey started. The captain paid without objecting, and would have mego over and take supper with him and his family. He said, "Aside fromhaving my cattle across safe and sound, I have the worth of my money invaluable experience." Next day he was back over the river, and wouldtell of the incident and say to the drovers he met with, "There is thatmountaineer. I am —— if he can't beat any man swimming cattle that Iever saw." And others would tell the drovers the same story.

Now, my friendly reader, I will tell you the secret of swimming horsesand cattle across a river. It is: Find a place (which you always cando) somewhere in the bends of the watercourse, where you can swimyour stock from the sun, and where they take to the water the deeperthe better, even if you have to make them jump from the banks. Theswifter the current the better; then they are not so likely to injureone another in jumping. Again, see that the outcoming place is ona grade, and the water is shallow. Then have some good swimmer, onhorseback, take the lead; push your stock to a lively gait, and successis assured. I had charge of swimming ten thousand head of cattle acrossGreen River, in the months of June and July, 1854, and never lost ahoof, yet forced hundreds of them over banks eight to ten feet high,into the water. In such case, the water must be deep, or we might havesustained damage. I have found, as a rule, that nearly all men who havemuch money or property think that they know it all, and are hard toconvince. But some of the drovers learned by object lessons, and almostall of them thought they could swim their own cattle; and so they couldhave done, if they had known the correct plan, or had made the effortafter sundown or before sunrise.

About the time set for his arrival, Washakie, the great Shoshonechieftain, came in with seven of his braves, and quietly walked around.First, he inspected the boat and its fixtures, or tackle; then hewent to the brewery, the bakery, store, court room, whisky saloon,blacksmith shops, card tables, saw much money changing hands, andobserved that money would purchase about anything the white man had.

When the chief had had a friendly visit all around, he went to theoffice of Captain Hawley, the ferryman. There he saw the captain takingand handling considerable money, among the precious metal being twoor three fifty-dollar gold slugs. He asked for one of these, but thecaptain laughed at him, and offered him a silver dollar.

This action offended Washakie, who walked away, and by some means gothold of some intoxicants. Then he began to think what was going onin the land of his forefathers, and came to me and said: "This is mycountry, and my people's country. My fathers lived here, and drankwater from this river, while our ponies grazed on these bottoms. Ourmothers gathered the dry wood from this land. The buffalo and elkcame here to drink water and eat grass; but now they have been killedor driven back out of our land. The grass is all eaten off by thewhite man's horses and cattle, and the dry wood has been burned; andsometimes, when our young men have been hunting, and got tired andhungry, they have come to the white man's camp, and have been orderedto get out, and they are slapped, or kicked, and called 'd—d Injuns.'Then our young men get heap mad, and say that when they have theadvantage of the white man, as they have often, they will take revengeupon him. Sometimes they have been so abused that they have threatenedto kill all the white men they meet in our land. But I have always beena friend to the white man, and have told my people never to moisten ourland with his blood; and to this day the white man can not show in allour country where the Shoshone has killed one of his people, thoughwe can point to many abuses we have patiently suffered from him. NowI can see that he only loves himself; he loves his own flesh, and hedoes not think of us; he loves heap money; he has a big bag full of it;he got it on my land, and would not give me a little piece. I am mad,and you heap my good friend, and I will tell you what I am going todo. Every white man, woman or child, that I find on this side of thatwater," pointing to the river, "at sunrise tomorrow I will wipe themout" (rubbing his hands together). He went on: "You heap my friend; youstay here all right; you tell them to leave my land. If they are on theother side of my water, all right, me no kill them, they go home totheir own country, no come back to my land. Tomorrow morning when thesun come up, you see me. My warriors come, heap damn mad, and wipe themall out, no one leave."

"Good-by, you tell him, chief, he mad!" was Washakie's partingexclamation, as he mounted his horse and rode away to his camp on theBig Sandy, some fifteen miles back from the Green River.

CHAPTER XLIV.

CONSTERNATION AT WASHAKIE'S DECLARATION—PEOPLE HURRY ACROSS THERIVER—THE WRITER IS ASKED TO ATTEMPT A RECONCILIATION—NIGHT TOO DARKTO TRAVEL—CHIEF WASHAKIE AND BRAVES APPEAR AT SUNRISE—THE CHIEFNOTES THAT THE PEOPLE ARE TERROR-STRICKEN, AND DECIDES THAT HE WILL BETHEIR FRIEND—TROUBLOUS EXPLOITS OF MOUNTAIN MEN—SHERIFF'S PLAN OFARREST—HOW THE SCHEME WORKED—DESPERADOES FREED BY THE COURT—CHASINGAN OFFENDER—SURROUNDED BY HIS ASSOCIATES—COOLNESS AND PLUCK OF THESHERIFF WIN—READY TO RETURN HOME—A TRYING EXPERIENCE.

AS might have been expected, I lost no time in apprising the peopleof the Indian threat, and the white population promptly complied withthe order to move; so that by daylight there was little of valueon that side of the river. There was great consternation among thepeople, and Captain Hawley was quite willing to send a fifty-dollarslug to the chief; but it was late in the evening, and no one to gobut myself. There was no telling how much liquor there might be in theIndian camp, so it was not a pleasant job for either friend or foe toapproach the savages on such a dark night as that was. Although I hadWashakie's promise of friendship, I knew that when the Indians weredrunk they were not good company, and I did not care to expose myselfto unnecessary danger.

Individually I had nothing at stake, but there were others who hadtheir families and thousands of dollars' worth of property at themercy of the enraged red men. In this crisis, when I was asked if Iwould take the risk, and what amount I would give my service for, Isaid I would undertake to go that night and attempt a reconciliation,and charge fifty dollars, if they would provide me with a good horse.That they agreed to do. The night was so dark, however, that it wasimpossible to get hold of a horse, so we had to move all of value thatcould be taken across the river. We also made every preparation fordefense that was possible during the night.

Next morning, true to his promise, Chief Washakie, with fifteen wellarmed men, came up, just at sunrise. I went out to meet him, and foundhim perfectly sober and friendly, as also his men. The chief rode upand glanced at the desolate appearance of everything, and saw thatthe women and children were greatly frightened. His companions sat ontheir horses and looked across the river. Finally the noble chief said,referring to those who had left their homes. "Tell them to come back.We will not hurt them. We will be good friends."

Thus ended the big scare, and the people returned. But there wasanother stir to come; for in a few days the ferryman from the UpperFerry, ten miles above the Middle Ferry, told Judge Appleby that aparty of rough mountaineers had driven him off, threatening his lifeif he did not leave immediately. They had taken charge of the ferry,and were running it and pocketing the money. There were twenty-eightof them, determined "cut-throats," a part of the desperado band I havereferred to before. The judge ordered the sheriff to summon everyavailable man, and go at once and ascertain who the leaders were,then arrest them and bring them before the court. There were onlyfourteen men obtainable for the posse, and this number included theferryman. The sheriff delegated me to take charge of the posse andgo up on the east side of the river, ahead of him and the ferryman,who would come up on the west side some time after, so as not tocreate any unnecessary suspicion. He instructed us to be sociable withthe outlaws, treat and be treated, and join in any game that mightbe engaged in. Said he, "We will get them drunk and divided amongthemselves, and then I think we can manage them."

The plan was laid, and every man being well armed, we set out on ourhazardous mission. We had with us one man who could drink an enormousamount of whisky and yet not get drunk, for he would turn around andput his ringer down his throat and vomit up the liquor before it wouldaffect him much. He said, "Boys, I can make a dozen of them drunk,and keep straight myself." He was asked how he would go about it, andreplied, "Well, I will offer to drink more whisky than any man on theriver, and we will drink by measure; then I will slip out and throwit up. To hide the trick you must push me out of doors roughly, as ifmad. At other times jam me up in a corner, so I can throw up. Thus Iwill have half of them so drunk that anyone of you can handle half adozen of them at once." His statement of his ability to drink and emptyhis stomach of it being corroborated, he was assigned that part of thestrategy. Then another man, who had been a soldier in the Mexican war,said, "Well, if you will get them drunk, I will win the money fromtheir own party to buy the whisky, for I know just how to do it." Hewas given that part, for whisky was fifty cents a drink.

When we had perfected arrangements as far as possible, we rode up,dismounting as if we had just happened to call and knew nothing of thetrouble. Each man took his part, and played it well. To our surprise,we found their leader, L. B. Ryan, apparently in a drunken stupor; hewas the same person I had met in the Shoshone Indian camp, five or sixweeks before. As he and the sheriff had been on good terms, they dranktogether and appeared to be quite friendly; but the ferryman and one ofthe band of outlaws got into a fight, and revolvers and bowie kniveswere drawn. Twenty-five or thirty of the mountain men, with deadlyweapons flourishing, rushed into the saloon in front of which the fightbegan. One man slashed the other with a knife, and one of them firedtwo shots, but some bystander knocked the weapon up, so it did no harm.The prompt action of the sheriff and his supports, together with theaid of a number of immigrants, stopped the row. If it had not been forthat, a dozen men might have been slain in as many minutes. Some of themen were of the most desperate character, and swore and made terriblethreats of what they would do.

At last the combatants drank together, while a number of others got sointoxicated they could scarcely stand alone. Then the sheriff calledRyan to one side and quietly arrested him, placing him under tenthousand dollars bonds for his appearance in court on a certain date.The ferryman and some of the more moderate of the outlaws compromisedtheir difficulties, and business settled down to a normal condition. Wewent back to the Middle Ferry, and the sheriff made his returns on theofficial papers.

At the time appointed for Ryan to appear in court, he was there,with seven young, well-armed warriors and a number of his band, whosauntered around the court room. Ryan was so desperate and so wellsupported by his clique that the court was glad to let him down and outas easily as possible; for it was evident that the court must do thator die. So Ryan and his gang returned to their haunts more triumphantthan otherwise.

So we had to deal with desperate men every day or two, and it wasseldom indeed that we could effect an arrest without a determined showof arms. Yet, we were not compelled to use them. The offenders mustsee that we had them, and had the nerve to use them, before they wouldyield. In one instance I was ordered by the sheriff to take a man whohad broken from the officer. The man was running, and I followed,revolver in hand. As the fugitive ran, he drew his weapon and wheeledaround. I was so near as to place my revolver uncomfortably close tohis face before he could raise his weapon. He saw at once that I hadthe "drop" on him, as we used to say, and delivered his revolver tome. The next moment the sheriff and posse had their backs together andweapons raised, while twenty-four armed men appeared on the scene anddemanded the man. But when they looked into the muzzles of fourteenColt's revolvers with bright, shining, waterproof caps exposed, and thesheriff called out in a firm and decisive voice, "I am the sheriff ofGreen River County, and have a writ for this man," they paused, thoughsome of them swore the officers could not take the man from camp, andadvanced in a threatening manner. Then the sheriff commanded, "Halt!The first man that advances another step, or raises his weapon, is adead man. Stand! I, as sheriff, give you fair warning." At that some ofthe more cautious said, "Hold on, boys! We must not oppose an officer,"and all concluded they must give up the man and submit to the law forthat time. The offense of the accused was shooting the ferryman's dog,while the latter was eating something under the table, and while theferryman's wife and daughter were standing at the table washing dishes;and when the ferryman remonstrated at such conduct, threatening toshoot him. Ultimately the matter was compromised, the culprit and hisfriends paying the costs.

On the 7th of July, I began preparations to return to Fort Supply, asmy real missionary labors seemed to have come to an end in that part,and I was glad of it. From May 13 to July 8, 1854, had been one of themost hazardous, soul-trying, disagreeable experiences of my life, forthe short period it occupied. I have written a very brief synopsisof it in the foregoing account; for it might seem impossible to theperson of ordinary experience for so many thrilling incidents as I hadwitnessed to happen in so short a time.

CHAPTER XLV.

GO TO FORT SUPPLY—START BACK TO GREEN RIVER AND MEET O. P. ROCKWELLAT FORT BRIDGER—HE BRINGS ME A TRADER'S LICENSE, ALSO GOODS TO TRADETO THE INDIANS—BEING LATE IN THE SEASON, WE STORE THE GOODS, AND GOTO SALT LAKE CITY—RECEIVE THE APPROVAL OF GOVERNOR YOUNG—MOVE TOOGDEN—ACCOMPANY GOVERNOR YOUNG AS INTERPRETER—MY HORSE STOLEN—CALLEDON A MISSION TO THE SHOSHONES—ON GOING TO SALT LAKE CITY, I AMRELEASED—ORDERED TO TAKE PART IN DISARMING INDIANS AT OGDEN—ADIFFICULT JOB—CHASE TO MOUND FORT—HAND-TO-HAND STRUGGLE WITH APOWERFUL SAVAGE—INDIANS DISARMED, BUT SULLEN—CHIEF'S BROTHER OFFERSALL HIS POSSESSIONS FOR HIS GUN—PRECAUTIONS TAKEN TO FEED THE INDIANSTHAT WINTER—TEACH THE INDIAN LANGUAGE IN SCHOOL—PROSPER IN BUSINESS.

ON July 9, I started for Fort Supply, arriving there on the 11th, whereI found all well. On the 14th I began a journey back to Green River,but met Porter Rockwell at Fort Bridger. He had a license from GovernorBrigham Young for me to trade with the Indians; also some two or threethousand dollars' worth of Indian goods for me to market. At that timethere was no opportunity to trade, as the Indians had disposed of theirrobes, pelts and furs for the season, so we sent the goods to FortSupply and had them stored there.

I accompanied Rockwell to Salt Lake City, arriving there on July 19. Wereported conditions to the governor, who received us very kindly, andapproved of what we had done. On August 15 I went to Ogden City and onthe 28th accompanied Governor Young, as interpreter, to Chief Catalos'camp of Shoshones, four miles north of Ogden. This large camp ofIndians had some grievances to settle, and particularly desired to askfavors and get a better understanding with the white men through theirbig chief. The Indians claimed that they were friendly to the whites,and wanted the latter to be friendly to them; they also wished to havetrade brought to them. The governor gave them a liberal present ofassorted Indian goods, talked friendship, and told them he would leaveother goods with me to trade. He also advised them to be good people,and to live at peace with all men, for we had the same great Father.Governor Young told them it would be good for them to settle down likethe white man, and learn of him how to cultivate the land as he did,so that when the game was all gone they could live and have somethingto eat and to feed their families on. The Indians said this was "heapgood talk," and their hearts felt good; so we parted with them in thebest of feelings, notwithstanding that some of their bad Indians hadstolen my only horse from where I had picketed him on the bottoms. Idid not learn the facts in the case in time to get redress, and all theconsolation I could obtain was that the thief did not know it was myanimal—"heap no good Indian steal your horse."

I returned to Ogden City, and there continued to trade with the Indiansas they came, until October 10, on which date I received a letterfrom Elder Orson Hyde, stating that Governor Young wished me to go ona mission among the Shoshones that winter. I answered the call, butwhen I got to Salt Lake City, on the way, it had been learned that theIndians had gone out so far into the buffalo country that it was notadvisable for me to follow them; so I returned to Ogden and continuedto visit and trade with the Indians, and got up my winter's wood.

On November 20 Wm. Hickman, L. B. Ryan and D. Huntington came up fromSalt Lake City with an order to Major Moore and the citizens of WeberCounty to disarm Chief Little Soldier and his band of Indians, anddistribute them among the families in Weber County where the peoplewere best able to feed and clothe them for the winter, and set themto work; for they had become very troublesome to the citizens of thatcounty, by killing cattle, burning fences, and intimidating isolatedfamilies. On the 30th the major called on me to go with his party tothe Indian camp at West Weber. I did so, and with considerable talkingwe got the Indians to accompany us to Ogden City. Still, they felt verywarlike and stubborn, being unwilling to give up their arms.

In the midst of the parley, the three men from Salt Lake City returnedto that place, and the Indians were allowed to go with their armsacross the Ogden River and camp among the willows near Mound Fort. OnDecember 1st we went after them, finding them so hostile that we hadto make a show of arms before they would submit to our proposition ofdistributing them among the whites, but when we brought a squad ofarmed men they very reluctantly and sullenly complied, so we marchedthem back to Ogden City, to a location on Main Street, near where theold tithing office stood. Almost every man that had side arms wascalled to mingle among the Indians, so that each man could command awarrior by disarming him by force if he refused to surrender his armsat the command of the major, which command I was required to repeatin the Indian dialect. At the word, each man was to take hold of anIndian's gun, and I was to tell the aborigines to surrender; but therewas not a man who obeyed the order, for what reason I do not know. Ithen went through the crowd of Indians and took every weapon with myown hands. The white men took them from me, and they were stored in thetithing office, a guard being placed over them.

Just then a young Indian was observed on horseback, going northwardas fast as his horse could carry him. Some one said, "There goes thatIndian boy to warn a camp over by Bingham Fort!" Major Moore had one ofthe fastest animals in the county; he ordered me to "take her and beatthe boy into camp, or run her to death. Don't spare horseflesh. Callout the citizens and disarm every Indian you find."

I obeyed the order, and found a small party of Indians camped in thecenter of what was called Bingham Fort. Just as the Indian boy reachedthe camp, I entered the east gate of the square, and rode to the westgate, shouting to the people, "To arms! To arms! Turn out, every man,and help to disarm the Indians!" Men turned out quickly and surroundedthe camp. I succeeded in reaching the west gate just in time to wheeland grab a big Ute's gun as he was trying to pass me. He held to itfirmly, and both struggled with a death-like grip. We looked each othersquarely in the eyes, with a determined expression. At last his eyesdropped, and his gun was in my possession. He was full of wrath and adesire for vengeance. I found him to be one of the strongest men I hadever grappled with anywhere.

I next turned to the camp and disarmed all the Indians in it, placedtheir weapons under guard and sent them to Ogden, then vainly triedto talk the red men into reconciliation. I next returned to Ogden,and there found the whites and Indians on the streets, the latter asdiscontented as ever. The major and I tried to pacify them, but theywere very stubborn and sullen. At last the chief's brother said, "Hereare my wife, my children, my horses and everything that I have. Takeit all and keep it, only give me back my gun and let me go free. Iwill cast all the rest away. There is my child," pointing to a littlethree-year-old, "take it." The little innocent held up its hands andcried for the father to take it, but he frowned and looked at it aswith a feeling of disgust, saying, "Go away. You are not mine, for Ihave thrown you away, and will not have you any more."

This spirit was but a reflex of that which animated the whole band;"for," said they, "we are only squaws now. We cannot hunt or defend ourfamilies. We are not anybody now." But finally, though very sullenly,they went home with the whites and pitched their tents in the backyards. To us it did seem hard to have them feel so bad, but they had nomeans of support for the winter, the citizens could not afford to havetheir stock killed off and their fences burned, and it was the betterpolicy to feed the Indians and have them under control. They could huskcorn, chop wood, help do chores, and be more comfortable than if leftto roam; but for all that, they were deprived of that broad liberty towhich they and their fathers before them had been accustomed, thereforethey felt it most keenly. As I was the only white man who could talkmuch with them, I was kept pretty busy laboring with them.

In the evening of December 3rd the Indians had a letter from GovernorYoung. I read and interpreted it to them. Then for the first time theyseemed reconciled to their situation. Their chief was filled with thespirit of approval of the course that had been taken with them, and hepreached it long and strong. After that, the Indians and the citizensgot along very well together, and I continued teaching and preaching tothe former.

December 5th I took up school and taught the Indian language, or ratherthe Shoshone dialect. I had about thirty male adults attending. BrotherGeorge W. Hill, who afterwards became the noted Shoshone interpreter inWeber County, was one of them.

I was very much prospered that winter, purchased a city lot and quarterof another on Main Street, fenced the lot, closed my trading with theIndians, and settled with D. H. Wells for the goods I had had.

CHAPTER XLVI.

ANOTHER MISSION TO THE INDIANS—START FOR THE SHOSHONECAMP—DIFFICULTIES OF TRAVEL—NEAR THE CROWS AND BLACKFEET—A DREAMGIVES WARNING OF DANGER—DISCOVER A LARGE BODY OF INDIANS—NOOPPORTUNITY OF ESCAPE—RIDE INTO THE CAMP OF A HUNTING AND WARPARTY—MEET CHIEF WASHAKIE—A DAY'S MARCH—SITUATION CRITICAL—HOLD ACOUNCIL—PRESENT THE BOOK OF MORMON—ALL BUT WASHAKIE SPEAK AGAINST USAND THE BOOK—AWAITING THE CHIEF'S DECISION.

AT a general conference held in Salt Lake City, April 6, 1855, I wasagain called to go east among the Indians, to labor with and for them.I was appointed by President Brigham Young to take the presidency ofthe mission among the Shoshones. At this call I hastened to provideas comfortably as possible for my family, and to fit myself for themission assigned me.

I set out on May 8, 1855, in company with four other Elders, goingeast via Salt Lake City. I drove one of the two teams, to pay for thehauling of my baggage, as I had no team of my own. On the 10th wereached Salt Lake City, and left the same day. On the 11th we overtookanother wagon and two of our fellow-missionaries. We arrived at FortSupply on the 17th, having had a pleasant trip. We found seven Eldersplanting the crop. On the 18th we joined them in the work of plowingand seeding, and repairing the stockade and fences. On the 29th, eightof us fitted up a four-horse team and wagon and six saddle horsesand started for the Shoshone camps, which we had heard were on theheadwaters of either the Green or the Snake River. On June 1st we cameto a tributary of the Green River, called the Fontenelle. There werested one day, then moved camp up to the mouth of the canyon.

On the 3rd of June, E. B. Ward, Joshua Terry and I crossed over thedivide between the Green and Snake Rivers, leaving Elder George W.Boyd in charge of camp. The three of us went along the western slope,passing one lodge of friendly Indians. On the 5th we came to Siveadus'camp of twenty lodges. He and his people were very cool towards us,so we proceeded to a stream called Piney, and up that to the top ofthe divide, from where we could see to the head waters of the WindRiver. Having been told that Washakie and his camp were somewhere onthe headwaters of Horse Creek, we made for that point, traveling oversnowdrifts that we supposed were fifty feet deep. The descent was verysteep, and in some places rather dangerous. That night our coffeebasins, that were left standing half or two-thirds full of water, hadbecome frozen solid; and the weather seemed seasonable for Christmas.

We suffered much with cold until 10 o'clock a.m., on the 7th of June.We turned northeast, and came onto Horse Creek, camping just belowits mouth, under a high, steep bluff, in a fine grove of cottonwoods.Everything seemed deathly still. We were in the borders of the Crowand Blackfeet Indians' country, with jaded horses, so that if we werediscovered it would be impossible to escape. We began to feel a littleconcern for our scalps, for we were aware that both the Crows and theBlackfeet were hostile. We gathered our wood, taking care that nobranch or anything connected with our fire would make much blaze orsmoke, lest by it we should be discovered. Everything being placed inthe best possible position for flight or fight, as might seem best ifemergency should arise, we rested there that night; and something toldus we should not go farther north, but that south should be our coursein the morning.

Early the following morning, about 3 o'clock, I dreamed that I saw alarge band of Indians come down and pitch camp on the creek above us.I was so forcibly impressed that I awoke the other two men, and toldthem I felt confident that the dream was true, and that we would proveit at daylight. They agreed with me, so I told them to make as dark afire as was possible, and to get breakfast, while I would go on thehigh bluff that overlooked camp and the country adjacent, where I wouldwatch everything that moved, and if there were friends or foes in thecountry we would see them or their lights before they should see ours.We all arose at once, the others preparing the meal and saddling thehorses ready for a hasty move, while I went up on the bluff and therekept a sharp lookout until the dawn. At the first streaks of daylight Isaw a blue smoke creeping up through the willows, perhaps a mile and ahalf above me, then another and another, until it was plain there wasa camp of Indians just where I had dreamed they were. Soon the tops oflodges appeared, then a band of ponies was driven up. By this time itwas fairly daylight.

I reported to the others what I had seen, and we took breakfast. By thetime the sun cast his earliest rays over the landscape, we were in thesaddle. Then came the question, what shall we do? To flee was folly,for it was not likely that we would escape the ever vigilant eye ofthe red man, in an open country like that was. We decided to ride outboldly on the open bench, and go straight to their camp. No sooner hadwe done so than we were discovered, and some twenty or more warriorsstarted to encircle us, but we rode direct for the camp without showingany concern.

Soon we were completely surrounded by a score of armed warriors in fullcostume of war paint; as these closed in their circle, they saluted uswith a war-whoop. Some had "green" scalps hanging from their bridlebits, while others had them suspended from their surcingles. As thewarriors drew nearer to us it became evident that they were of theShoshone tribe, but we could not recognize any one of them, and theydid not appear to recognize us. When we spoke to them and offered toshake hands, they shook their heads and pointed us to the camp, whilethey proudly escorted us there, some going before us and clearing theway up to the lodge of Washakie, their chief, who, with some of hisleading men, stood waiting to receive us. As we rode up, Washakie andhis associates stepped forward, and in a very friendly manner shookhands. By gestures they said, "We are moving camp, and you will goand camp with us tonight. Then we will hear what you have to say.We fell in with a war party of Crows and Blackfeet yesterday, anddefeated them, and now we are fleeing to a safe place for our womenand children, lest they get reinforcements and come upon us and ourfamilies;" then with a motion, the chief said, "Forward," and soon thewhole band was on the move.

We estimated that the Indians numbered about three thousand all told,and there was a pony for every soul; they were well supplied withrifles, Colt's revolvers, bows, arrows, shields and some cutlasses,and large, heavy knives. They were excellently mounted, and theirdiscipline could not well be improved for the country they werepassing over and the force they were most likely to fall in with.Their flanking party was so arranged as to act as a front guard, andat the same time drive all the game into a circle and thence into asecond circle, so that everything, down to the smallest chipmunk andsquirrel, was bagged. This was over a strip of country about eightmiles by thirty; and the pack of sagehens and squirrels that wasbrought into camp was astonishing. The old and middle-aged men formedthe rear guard, while the whole female portion of the camp drove thepack animals. The chief and his most confidential advisers rode just infront of these, and we were called to be a part of the escort.

When all was on the move, the camp made quite a formidable appearance.It looked to us as if the shrubbery on our way had changed suddenlyinto a moving army, what with people and ponies all moving up hill anddown, over the rolling country, to the south, between the high Snakeand Wind River ranges of the great Rocky Mountains. We thought ofancient Israel, of the Ten Tribes coming from the north country, and ofthe promises that had been made to the Indians by the prophets of theirforefathers.

To us this was a great day of thought and meditation, for at times itseemed to us that we could see the opening glories of a better day, andcould almost declare, "Now is the dawn of the day of Israel," for wehad a letter from that modern Moses, President Brigham Young, to readand interpret to the red men, and also the Book of Mormon to introduceto them that very evening, for the first time; and the questionuppermost in our minds was as to whether they would receive it or not,for there were many hard looking countenances in the throng, and wecould see plainly from their frowns that they were not at all friendlyto us.

When we had traveled till about 3 o'clock p.m., camp was made ina lovely valley. The chief's lodge was first pitched, clean robesspread, and we were invited to take seats thereon. Our horses, packsand all, were taken charge of by the women of the camp, just where wedismounted, and we had no more to do with our animals until we had usefor them next day.

A little fire having been built in the center of the lodge, thecouncilors began to file into their places, each very quietly shakinghands with us, some of them very coldly. When all was quiet, the chiefsaid, by gesture, "Now tell us what you have to say. Tell it straight,and no crooked talk, for we do not want any lies, but the truth." Itseemed to us that they were ready for square work, so, with as fewwords as possible, we told Washakie we had a letter from the big Mormoncaptain to him and his people. Then he said, "Tell us what it says,"and between the three of us we could tell him every word.

I am sorry that I have not at hand the full text of the letter, butit was a very friendly document, and, so far as I can now remember,told them that President Young had sent us to Washakie and his peopleas their friends, that we were truthful and good men, who would tellthem many good things about how to live in peace with all people;that President Young and the Mormon people were true friends to theIndian race, and wished them to be our friends, that we might live inpeace with each other, for it would not be many years before all thegame would be killed off or driven out of the country, and the whitemen would want to come and settle in the land; that if the Indianswould settle down and build houses like the white man, and cultivatethe land as the white man did, when the game was gone they and theirfamilies would have something to eat. President Young proposed tofurnish seed and tools, and some good men to show and help the Indiansto put in their crops. The letter further said that after a while,when we understood each other better, we would tell them about theirforefathers, and about God; that we had a book that told a great manythings regarding the Great Spirit's dealings with their forefathers,and what He would do for them and their children. Then we presented theBook of Mormon to Washakie, while his lefthand man filled the pipe anddrew a rude figure of the sun, in the ashes of the smouldering fire;he also muttered a few unintelligible words, smote his chest with hishand, took a whiff or two from the pipe, passed it to the next man onhis left, and reached for the book; he opened it and said it was nogood for them—that it was only good for the white man.

In that same order the pipe and book passed around the circletwenty-one times, and each time the Indian made a new figure in theashes, each representing a different planet. During the whole time onlyone man spoke at once. One said, "This book is of no use to us. If theMormon captain has nothing better to send than this, we had better sendit, his letter, and these men, back to him, and tell him that theyare no good to us, that we want powder, lead and caps, sugar, coffee,flour, paints, knives, and blankets, for those we can use. Send thesemen away to their own land."

Another of the council, when it came to his turn, said, "We have no usefor this book. If the paper were all cut out and thrown away, we couldsew up the ends and put a strap on it, and it would do for the whiteman's money bag; but we have no use for it, for we have no money toput in it." He could not understand what good it was to the Shoshone,and said, "Let the white man take it and go home, and come back withsomething that we can eat, or use to hunt with."

These were the sentiments expressed by the members of the council. ButWashakie had not yet spoken, and we anxiously awaited his decision.

CHAPTER XLVII.

WASHAKIE'S BOLD ATTITUDE—TELLS HIS COUNCILORS THEY ARE FOOLS—SAYSTHE WHITE MEN, WHO ARE WISE, HAVE BOOKS—TELLS THE TRADITION OFHOW THE INDIANS FELL INTO DARKNESS—GREAT SPIRIT ANGRY AT THE REDMAN—ADVOCATES THAT THE INDIANS LIVE LIKE WHITE PEOPLE—HIS POWERFULSPEECH GAINS THE DAY FOR US—SHOSHONE TRADITION—WE START HOME—AHUNGRY TRIP—RETURN TO THE INDIANS, FINDING THEM SULLEN—FOURTH OF JULYCELEBRATION AT FORT SUPPLY—RETURN HOME.

THE book passed around the entire circle without a solitary friend,and came back to our hands. The chief reached for it, and when he gothold of the volume he looked at and opened it, turned leaf after leafas readily as though he had been accustomed to books, then straightenedto his full height as he sat there, and looked around the circle. "Areyou all done talking?" he asked. Seeing every man with his hand on hismouth, he spoke: "You are all fools; you are blind, and cannot see;you have no ears, for you do not hear; you are fools, for you do notunderstand. These men are our friends. The great Mormon captain hastalked with our Father above the clouds, and He told the Mormon captainto send these good men here to tell us the truth, and not a lie. Theyhave not got forked tongues. They talk straight, with one tongue, andtell us that after a few more snows the buffalo will be gone, and ifwe do not learn some other way to get something to eat, we will starveto death. Now, we know that is the truth, for this country was oncecovered with buffalo, elk, deer and antelope, and we had plenty to eat,and also robes for bedding, and to make lodges. But now, since thewhite man has made a road across our land, and has killed off our game,we are hungry, and there is nothing for us eat. Our women and childrencry for food, and we have no meat to give them. The time was when ourFather who lives above the clouds loved our fathers who lived long ago,and His face was bright, and He talked with our fathers. His face shoneupon them, and their skins were white like the white man's. Then theywere wise, and wrote books, and the Great Father talked good to thembut after a while our people would not hear Him, and they quarreled andstole and fought, until the Great Father got mad, because His childrenwould not hear Him talk. Then He turned His face away from them, andHis back to them and that caused a shade to come over them, and thatis why our skin is black and our minds dark." Stripping up his shirtsleeve, he continued: "That darkness came because the Great Father'sback was towards us, and now we cannot see as the white man sees. Wecan make a bow and arrows, but the white man's mind is strong andlight." Picking up a Colt's revolver, he went on: "The white man canmake this, and a little thing that he carries in his pocket, so thathe can tell where the sun is on a dark day and when it is night he cantell when it will come daylight. This is because the face of the Fatheris towards him, and His back is towards us. But after a while the GreatFather will quit being mad, and will turn His face towards us. Thenour skin will be light." Here the chief showed his bare arm again, andsaid: "Then our mind will be strong like the white man's, and we canmake and use things like he does."

The chief next drew a strong contrast between the Indian's way ofliving and the white man's, telling his people that the mode of thewhite man was far preferable to that of the Indian. He also told themthat the Great Father had directed "the big Mormon captain to sendthese men to us to talk good talk, and they have talked good, and madeour hearts feel very glad, and we feel that it is good for them to comeand shake hands. They are our friends, and we will be their friends.Their horses may drink our water, and eat our grass, and they may sleepin peace in our land. We will build houses by their houses, and theywill teach us to till the soil as they do. Then, when the snow comesand the game is fat, we can leave our families by the Mormons, and goand hunt, and not be afraid of our families being disturbed by otherIndians, or by anybody else, for the Mormons are a good people. Letthese three good men go, and find a good place for us to live, closeby where they live; and after a while we will come, and they will showus how to build houses, for they are our good and true friends, andwe wish they would go home, and bring some blankets, powder and lead,knives, paints, beads, flour, sugar and coffee, to trade for our furs,pelts and robes."

Washakie spoke thus with great power and wisdom, while his wise oldcouncilors sat with their heads bowed, and their hands over theirmouths, only grunting assent to the strong points of his powerfulspeech, of which this account is only a brief synopsis.

No vote was taken, but seemingly every man gave his assent to thechief's decision, by a grunt of approval. Then each man quietlywithdrew, and a kettle of boiled antelope meat was set before us. Thechief had a separate dish put before him. Then we retired for the night.

The camp was almost destitute of food, notwithstanding the squirrelsand sagehens that had been taken the day before. The whole camp washungry, and the last morsel of our provisions was gone, so nextmorning, June 9th, we left camp, having a very scant breakfast of meat;but we had introduced the Book of Mormon, and had had the pleasure ofhaving it received favorably by Washakie, the great Shoshone chief, andhis council, as the history of their forefathers. The chief said thewolves had written that book when they were men, but had since beenturned into wolves; that being an ancient tradition among the Shoshones.

We rode hard all day the day that we left the Shoshone camp, and atsundown camped by a mountain leek spring, without a bite to eat. Norhad we had anything to eat at dinner time; so we made our supper ofmountain leeks. Next morning, the 10th, we had leeks for breakfast,and at sunrise we were in the saddle, and on our way back to where wehad left the other brethren. I was on the lead, with a double-barreledshotgun before me. We had not gone very far before a blue mountainpheasant flew up from under my horse's head, and lit in the trail a fewyards in front. I shot it so quickly that I never thought of my horsebeing frightened. Another man jumped from his saddle, and had the birdskinned before the blood had stopped flowing, while the other built afire. The pheasant was broiled and eaten before the animal heat couldhave gone out of it, if it had been left where it was shot. Then wetraveled all that our horses could bear until 3 o'clock p.m., when wecame to a flock of sagehens. As I was still on the lead, I shot threeof them before the rest fled. We broiled one of them, and soon devouredit, as we had the other bird, then continued our journey till evening.

As we traveled along by a small stream of water, I saw a fish abouteighteen inches long, and almost as quick as thought shot at andstunned it, so that it turned up at the top of the water long enoughfor an Indian boy who was traveling with us to shoot an arrow throughit. With the arrow sticking through it, the fish shot up to where thecreek widened out, and I, thinking the water only knee-deep, plunged inup to my hips. I caught the fish, we broiled it for supper, and ate itas we had done the birds and leeks—without salt or pepper.

On the 11th we had a bird for breakfast, and traveled till afternoon,counting that we had journeyed about one hundred and twenty-five miles,and reached our camp, where we found all well. The boys soon spreada white man's meal before us, and each of us did our part without agrumble. Then we made a short drive, and on the 12th pushed forward onour way to Fort Supply, reaching that place on the 14th. We found allwell, and in good spirits.

June 15th we loaded two wagons with a large assortment of Indian goods,as we had agreed to meet the Indians with the merchandise, in twentydays, on the Labarg, a tributary of Green River. On the 20th we reachedthat stream and as there were no Indians there I sent Joshua Terry, E.Barney Ward, and my cousin James M. Brown, to inform the red men thatwe were on time as agreed. It seemed that after we left them they hadquarreled and divided into three parties, and came very near rightingamong themselves. They were therefore very different in spirit to whenwe left them. At last they began to come and lodge in three distinctcamps around our wagons.

On the 28th, all the Indians were very sullen and did not seem to bethe same people they were a few days before. Knowing something of theirnature, we turned out about seventy-five dollars' worth of provisionsand other goods as a present. Still that did not seem to satisfy them;they wanted all we had. Finally I told them that we had done as we hadagreed to do, and if they wished to trade we were ready. They continuedto manifest a very mean spirit, and we were not able to sell more thanfive hundred dollars' worth of goods out of a stock of three thousanddollars.

On June 30th we left three of our party with the Indians, while therest of us returned to Fort Supply with our stock of goods. TheIndians felt very bad because we had not given them all we had. It wasJuly 4th when we arrived at the fort, and found the brethren therecelebrating the glorious Independence Day. I was quite ill, but thebrethren insisted on my taking the lead of the ceremonies. That beingmy birthday, I accepted the offer, and we had a very enjoyable time.

From July 5th to the 18th we continued our farm labors. Then E. B. Wardand three or four other men, including myself, set out on a littleexploring trip among the hills. We crossed over to Henry's Fork, thenreturned to Smith's Fork, where we selected a place for the Indiansto settle when they saw fit. Having thus completed our obligations tothem, we returned to the fort, and continued our labors until August1st, when we had a recruit of twelve men sent to us, under command ofJohn Phelps. About August 3rd or 4th I rebaptized all the Elders, andbaptized three of the first Shoshone women that ever came into theChurch. Their names were Mary, Sally Ward, and Corger. I also baptizeda young Indian man named Corsetsy. From the 5th to the 7th, the Indianscame and went, attended our meetings regularly, and felt very friendlyand somewhat inquisitive. We gave them a few presents. They saidthey were well pleased to have us locate in their country, and weresatisfied with the places we had selected for them to settle and liveupon as we did. On the 7th of August, Joshua Terry and I started forSalt Lake City, each with an ox team and two wagons loaded with furs,pelts and robes. We arrived in the city on the 11th, and reported oursuccess to Governor Young, who was pleased with our efforts. We alsosettled for the goods we had had of him.

On the 13th I started for Ogden City, and reached there the next day,meeting my wife and firstborn child, a daughter, who was born August10th.

CHAPTER XLVIII.

AFFAIRS AT HOME—START FOR FORT SUPPLY—ILLNESS OF MYSELF ANDFAMILY—GIFT OF HEALING—TROUBLE WITH INDIANS AT FORT SUPPLY—TURBULENTRED MEN—I HELP ONE OFF MY BED—THEY PERSIST IN TAKING OR DESTROYINGOUR PROPERTY—WE STOP THEM—ONE ATTEMPTS TO KILL ME—INDIANSRETIRE FROM THE FORT—ALMOST A CONFLICT—I CHECK THE WHITE MENFROM SHOOTING—INDIANS WITHDRAW—WE SEND TO GOVERNOR YOUNG FORASSISTANCE—OUR STOCK AND GUARDS DRIVEN IN—INDIAN AGENT APPEARS WITHANNUITIES—THE SAVAGES SUBMIT—WE GUARD DAY AND NIGHT—INDIANS MOREPEACEFUL—REINFORCEMENTS ARRIVE FROM THE GOVERNOR—MATTERS QUIET DOWN.

AUGUST 14, 1855, I went to Salt Lake City, and on September 3rdreturned home. On the 5th my family were taken sick with cholera morbus.

Notwithstanding this sickness, I started on my return to Fort Supply,for it was the faith of myself and family that if I went to my missionthey would be healed. Just as I mounted my horse to start out, myuncle, Captain James Brown, came along and said, "Jimmie, are you goingoff and leaving your family sick?"

I told him, "Yes, sir."

Said he, "You are cold-hearted, and I would not do it."

When I told him that they with me believed that if I would go to mymissionary labors they would be healed sooner than if I should neglectmy duties in that line, he, with uplifted hands, said, "Jim, you'reright. Go ahead, and God bless you. Your family shall be healed,and not suffer. I will go in and pray for them." He did so, and Iafterwards learned that they were healed the same hour that I proceededon my journey. I did not see them again till December 20th, when theytold me that they had not been sick one day after I left.

Although when I started out I was very ill myself with the sametrouble, and had to call at a friend's and get a dose of painkiller,and take a rest for an hour or two before I could proceed on my way toSalt Lake City, yet on the 13th I started for Fort Supply, and overtookthe two wagons which had preceded me the day before. I travelled withthem until the 17th, then left them and went on horseback forty-fivemiles to the fort. I was very sick for five days, so that I had to keepmy bed part of the time. I found all well and the wheat harvest readyfor the laborers, a heavy frost having injured the crops considerably.On Friday, September 28th, I sent four men to invite Washakie to thefort, and on the 29th we learned that Chief Tibunduets (white man'schild) had just returned with his band from Salt Lake City. October 1stI sent Isaac Bullock and Amenzo Baker to visit him. They found him andall of his band feeling very bad and revengeful.

October 10th Tibunduets and his band threw down our fencing and camecharging up through our field, riding over wheat shocks, and singingwar songs. At the same time the warriors from a camp above came intothe fort with their weapons in their hands. Our men tried to befriendly and talked peace to them, but it was not what they wanted.They said they were "heap mad," for when they were in Salt Lake Citythe big Mormon captain had written with blood on their children, anda number of these had died while they were among the Mormons. TheseIndians refused the seats offered them, but jumped on the beds andbehaved very saucily, saying they wanted pay for the death of theirchildren who had died on the Mormon lands. Of course, we could notafford to give presents of that kind, and their demands were rejected.

Three of the hostile Indians went to my room, and one engaging me inconversation, the other two jumped on my bed and stretched themselvesfull length on it. My cousin James M. Brown called my attention totheir rude actions, and I turned around and told them to get off mybed, but they answered with a contemptuous laugh. I told them a secondtime, and they sneered again. I stepped to the side of the bed and toldthem the third time, and as they refused, I jerked one of them off thebed so quickly that it surprised him, and the other one thought hepreferred to get off without that kind of help, and did so quickly.

Tibunduets made heavy demands on us, which we could not comply with. Wetold him that we were not prepared to do his bidding, and he replied,"You're a wolf and a liar, and you will steal." Then the Indians turnedtheir horses into our fields among our shocks of wheat and oats, whiletheir women went to digging and sacking our potatoes, the Indiansthrowing down our fences in many places and ordering our men out of thefields. They told us to leave their lands, and continued their insultsuntil I sent some men out to order their women out of the potatopatch. The squaws only laughed at our men, who returned and reportedthe results. Then I went out myself, and as I passed a brush fence, Icaught up a piece of brush and started towards the potato diggers, whoscreamed and ran away before I got near enough to use the stick.

I returned to the house and soon was followed by two young braves, whorode up in front of the door and called for the captain. I answeredin person, when the braves said, "You heap fight squaw, you no fightInjun." They continued their insulting words and threats of violence,until at last I ordered them out of the fort, upon which one of themdrew his bow and pointed his arrow at me, within three feet of mybreast. At that one of my men pushed the horse's head between me andthe arrow. At the same time Amenzo Baker handed me a Colt's revolver,and another man covered the Indian with a revolver.

At that movement the Indians started for the big gate, and as there wasquite a number of warriors inside the fort I called my men out withtheir guns, for the Indians seemed determined on bloodshed. They rushedoutside, and the white men followed them to where a young chief saton his horse, just outside of the gate. There must have been a signalgiven to the camp above, for the warriors came running with theirrifles in hand, until seventy-five to one hundred warriors were on theground, while there were only about forty white men. Everybody wantedto say something, and in the confusion that followed some ten or twelvemen leveled their guns to shoot, being in such close quarters that theystruck each other as they brought their weapons into position.

At that moment I sprang under the guns and held some of them up, andforbade the men to shoot. This act seemed to please the young chief,and he commanded his men to desist. I ordered my men back and intotheir bastions, and to bar the gate. This done, I took a position inthe watchtower, where I talked with their chief through a porthole, andtold him that we were in a position to do them harm, but did not wishto do so, yet they must withdraw in peace and not molest our property,for we should defend it and ourselves to the best of our ability. Isaid that if they would withdraw peacefully we would not interfere withthem, but to that they would not agree. After considerable parleying,however, they did withdraw to their camp among the cottonwood timberand willows on the creek, and built large fires, around which theydanced and sang war songs the greater part of the night, while we madeevery possible preparation for defense.

As captain of the fort, I wrote a despatch to the governor andsuperintendent of Indian affairs, stating the facts. Then we coveredwith blankets a slab bridge that had to be crossed near the gates, todeaden the sound of the horse's feet as he went out, and a clever youngman by the name of Benjamin Roberts speeded away with the note to SaltLake City.

On the 11th all was quiet. A few Indian lodges remained near our fort,and the women and children were around them as usual, so Isaac Bullockand I went down to learn what the situation was. We found some of themfriendly, while others were very sulky. The main part of the Indiancamp had gone down the creek, and we thought it safe to turn our stockout under a mounted guard, with one man in the watchtower to keep alookout. About 2 p.m. the man at the watchtower sounded an alarm,saying he saw a great dust in the north; and a few minutes later heshouted that a large body of horsemen was in sight, coming rapidly fromthe north, while our horse guards were coming with our band of horses,hastening with all speed to the fort. Immediately every man was calledto take a position for prompt action. I occupied a commanding place,giving instructions to the men not to shoot without my order, and thennot unless they felt sure of making every shot tell. They were told tosee that every tube was filled with powder, "for here they come," saidI; "keep cool boys, for it is a close race with our men and horses."

It was a question of which would reach the fort first, they or theIndians. The race was so close that the guards with our band justsucceeded in getting in with the animals in time to close the gatesagainst the Indian ponies, whose riders called out, "Open the gates!"They were answered with a positive "No! not until you give up yourarms." They had three mountain men in their party of over one hundredwarriors, who shouted that they would be responsible if we would letthem in, for the Indian agent, George Armstrong, was a short distancein the rear, with two wagons loaded with goods for the Indians.

As I had not been advised of the agent's approach from any othersource, I still refused them admittance. Soon the agent's wagons werein sight, and some of his party came up and told the Indians they wouldhave to give up their arms before they could enter the fort, for thecaptain was determined not to allow them in with their arms. At lastthey submitted, and the gate was opened just wide enough for one man topass through. I stepped outside, the Indians handed their arms to me, Ipassed them to the other men, and they placed them on a part of a wagonsheet. Then the weapons were bound up strongly and taken away and putin my room, and a guard placed over them. The Indians were then toldthat they could enter the fort and pass directly into the blockhouse,but would not be permitted to wander around in the fort.

About this time the agent's wagons rolled up and were hastily unloaded.Then a friendly smoke took place, and a short council, in which theIndians agreed that they would withdraw in peace and go to theirhunting grounds, and would not molest us any more. They said we mightremain on their lands let our stock eat grass and drink water in peace;that we might cultivate the lands and use what timber we wanted, andthat they would be our friends, and we their friends. The goods theagent had for the Indians were then turned over to them.

On the 13th the red men brought in a report that the Sioux Indianshad killed one of Jack Robinson's beeves. This they did to screenthemselves, for it was they and not the Sioux who had killed theanimal. The agent gave them a beef ox, and they moved down the creek.On the 14th the agent and party returned home, and we kept up a guardday and night to prevent being surprised by the renegades of the Indiancamps; for we had evidence of their treachery. We had given them backtheir arms, and when they obtained all we had for them they said thewhite man was "heap good, Shoshone no kay nabatint Mormon." (Shoshonesdo not want to fight Mormons.) They packed and left, feeling quitepleased.

General R. T. Burton with a party of twenty-five men were met at FortBridger on the 16th, by myself and a small party. On the 17th I wentwith them to Fort Supply, while they concluded to send out a scoutto ascertain whether the Indians really had crossed the Green Riveror not, thinking that if they did we could be satisfied that all wasright. When our scouts returned and reported that all had crossed theriver and gone farther on, General Burton and command returned home,while myself and men did up our fall work at Fort Supply.

CHAPTER XLIX.

START HOME FROM FORT SUPPLY—CAMP ALONE AT NEEDLE ROCK—AWAKENED BYMY HORSE—SURROUNDED BY WOLVES—FLASH POWDER ALL NIGHT TO KEEP OFF THEWILD BEASTS—REACH HOME—SUPPLIES SHORT—HARDSHIPS OF A GRASSHOPPERYEAR—GETTING MY CATTLE OUT OF A CANYON—PERILS OF BEING CAUGHT IN THESNOW—GREAT SUFFERING—BREAKING A SNOW ROAD—BUSINESS AFFAIRS.

THE writer left Fort Supply December 14, 1855, and started for his homein Ogden City on horseback and alone, having placed Isaac Bullock incharge of affairs at the fort. The first night out I camped at a placecalled Needle Rock, just east of Yellow Creek. There I selected a spotwhere the feed was good, picketed out my horse, set my saddle over thepicket pin, and spread my blankets so as to lay my head on the saddle,lest the coyotes should cut my riata and turn loose the horse.

As I was alone and yet in an Indian country, I did not make a fire, butate a cold lunch, rolled up in my blankets, and soon dropped to sleep,to be awakened by my horse snorting and kicking. The animal brushed hisnose on my head before I was sufficiently awake to understand what hemeant by his actions; but no sooner was I aroused than I found that hewas surrounded by a pack of large, grey wolves which were growling andsnapping at his heels and at each other. The night was so dark that Icould plainly see the fierce eyes of my ravenous enemies shining in thedarkness all around me.

I had a good Colt's revolver, but having heard that if wolves smelledblood when they were gathered in such a pack they would attack manor beast, I reserved my fire. I remembered having heard that thesewild beasts were afraid of the flash and smell of burning powder, soI spread some gunpowder on the leathers of my saddle, and with flintand steel struck fire, and in that way flashed powder by intervals allnight. The wolves would run off, but return in a short time, as ifdetermined to have flesh. My horse was too weak to attempt to flee,and as for myself I had become so chilled and benumbed that it waswith some difficulty that I could keep up the flashes till daylight,at which time the pack of wolves went away, leaving horse and riderto resume their sufficiently hazardous journey without such unwelcomecompany.

I crossed over to the head of Echo Canyon, where I found a yoke of oxenthat some emigrants had left to die. As the animals had got restedup, I thought I could drive them in and save their lives, but had toabandon them in Round Valley, Weber Canyon. Then, on a poor, jadedhorse, I pursued my way, arriving at home about 9 p.m. on December 20th.

SURROUNDED BY A PACK OF HUNGRY WOLVES

I found all well, but winter supplies of food so short that I sold theonly respectable suit of clothes I had for breadstuff. I had about wornout all the rest of my clothing when I was in the Indian country, sothat I had but one old flannel shirt left, and that I had made out oftwo old ones. I had one pair of buckskin pants, a rough beaver cap anda pair of moccasins.

It will be remembered by the early residents of Utah that the year1855 was a grasshopper year, as well as a season of great drought, andtherefore one of the hardest years that many of the people had everexperienced, both for man and beast. Hundreds of horses and cattlestarved to death, and many of the people barely escaped the same sadfate. I could do no better than to let my horses go out on the range todie of starvation and cold, and turn my hand to anything I could get todo to earn an honest dollar.

Soon after arriving home I was called to devote a portion of my time intraveling from settlement to settlement, and preaching to the people;also in visiting the Indian camps along the Weber River and preachingand talking to them, for it was a terrible winter for the Indians.Before entering upon these duties, however, I returned to where I hadleft my cattle to rest for a few days, and where the feed was tolerablygood. When I started out it commenced to storm and by the time Ireached the cattle the snow was eighteen inches deep.

Before I could get out of the canyon with the animals the snow was twoand a half feet deep. My horse gave out, and I had to travel on foot,breaking the trail and leading the horse a few rods, then going backand driving up the cattle. I continued these efforts until myself andstock were exhausted. When I tried to start a fire, my matches wereall wet. I had left my rifle and shotpouch at home, and in the pouchwere my faithful flint and steel, which had never failed me. But forthe snow, the night was total darkness. At last I reached a clump ofcottonwood trees, and for a time I thought I would die of exhaustionand thirst. I knew that if I ceased to exert myself I would chill todeath. Finally it occurred to my mind to tear off a piece of my shirt,roll it up, hold it in one hand, and with my revolver shoot through itand start a fire. I found a large sagebrush, and from it gathered thedry bark. This I wrapped around the roll of shirt, then fired a shotthrough it, and in that way succeeded in starting a flame. As therewas plenty of wood handy, I built and kept up a large fire during thenight. The river banks were so steep that it was impossible in thedarkness to get water to drink. I was driven almost frantic by thirst,but finally thought to take off my heavy leggings, place them in aposition so that they would form a kind of basin, and cover them withsnow, so the fire would melt it to water in the leather bowl. In thatway I obtained water and quenched my terrible thirst. My blankets andeverything I had on had been soaked thoroughly with the melting snow,but I succeeded in drying all during the night.

The dawn of day was welcome indeed, but my troubles were not yet over,for I found my animals standing in snow to their necks, and they wouldnot move out of their tracks only as I broke an opening around andurged them on. The snow was so wet and heavy that it was an awful taskto break a road and get those animals through for the first five miles.After that the snow was not so deep, and with a very great effort andhazard of life I succeeded in reaching Ogden, as thankful as I ever wasin my life to get home—to "home, sweet home."

Being once more with my family and friends, I got up my winter woodand visited the people as a teacher. In the spring I finished atwo-roomed house that I had under way on Main Street. I then movedinto it, preparatory to going to Fort Supply again, but was honorablyreleased by President Young from further missionary labors in thatpart. I rented land, put in corn and potatoes, and spent the fore partof the summer at farm labor. Having acquired a fourth interest inthree ferries on Green River, I arranged with my three partners, IsaacBullock, Louis Robinson and W. Hickman, so that I did not have to gothere, as my health was not very good; hence I remained at Ogden.

CHAPTER L.

CALLED ON A MISSION TO DEEP CREEK INDIANS—SHORT TIME FOR THEJOURNEY—PREPARE FOR THE TRIP—JOURNEY IN THE DESERT—HORSESSTOLEN—TRAVEL ON FOOT—SAVED FROM PERISHING WITH THIRST—MEET THEINDIANS—COULD UNDERSTAND AND SPEAK TO THEM—INDIAN AGENT'S OFFER—IACT AS INTERPRETER—PREACH TO THE INDIANS—ON THE RETURN TRIP—VISITGOVERNOR YOUNG WITH A DELEGATION OF BANNOCK INDIANS.

ON August 22, 1856, I received a letter from President Young, callingme to take a mission of thirty days, west across the desert, to DeepCreek, to the Indians in that region. As I did not understand fullythe object of the mission, I thought there was some mistake in theletter, since the distance that had to be traveled out and back wouldbe about five hundred miles and I was to preach to a tribe of IndiansI had never seen, much less being able to speak their dialect, and doit all with only thirty days' rations. To me it was, to say the least,a singular call; so I went to Salt Lake City August 23rd, to find outthat the letter meant just what it said, no less; only that Geo. W.Armstrong, an Indian agent from Provo, was going out to distribute somegoods among the Indians, and it would be a good time to send a fewmissionaries to preach to the red men.

From Salt Lake City I returned to Ogden and purchased a splendid mareof widow Ruth Stuart, on credit, promising to pay when I could. On the27th I joined Mr. Armstrong and twenty-five other men in Salt LakeCity, fitting up for the journey, some as guards to the agent and someas missionaries. Among those I remember were Seth M. Blair, OliverHuntington, Ormus Bates, John Whitney, J. Cooley, Harrison Sagers,Harrison Sevier, and Peter Conover; there were others whose names I donot now recall.

The company left the city on August 29th, and traveled through Tooele,Rush Valley, and over Johnson's Pass into Skull Valley. With fiveothers of the party, however, I went around by what is now calledDugway, and met the rest of the company at the springs in Skull Valley.

On September 2nd, we reached Granite Rock, sometimes called GraniteMountain, as it stands out in the midst of the desert. There thecompany camped at some alkali springs, where, with cup and bucket, ittook all night to dip water for the stock. Next morning we found thatthe Indians had stolen all the team horses, eight head, so the agentcalled on the men to volunteer their saddle horses to take his wagonsacross the desert. Among the rest, I let my horse go, and eight of usset out on foot to cross the desert, while some went after the stolenstock. Other horsemen pushed across to water, and the teams brought upthe rear.

The route was brushy and rocky, in some places there was heavy sand, inother parts stiff alkali mud, and much of the time without a sign of aroad. The writer was taken very sick with a severe bowel complaint andwas compelled to turn to one side, so I fell behind my fellow footmen.The teams lagged in the sand and mud till long after dark. I became soweak and faint that I could not travel any longer, and I laid down onthe damp ground, so tired and thirsty that it seemed impossible for meto live until morning without relief. When I had laid down for sometime, I heard my bunkmate, Doc. Woodward, shout that he had found waterand filled his canteen, and was coming back hunting the missed andneedy one. When he got near enough for me to answer him, I did so, andwith a drink I was somewhat revived. I was helped on my friend's horse,and we proceeded on for about five miles to camp and water. One of theparty gave me a brandy toddy, spread my blankets, and I turned in, avery grateful sufferer. I was given a cup of coffee, after which I feltvery much relieved, and by morning was ready to resume the journey, thewagons having come up about 11 p.m. Next morning, September 4th, wemoved up five or six miles, to what was called Fish Springs. There wefound a number of Indians, and the party pitched camp for a few days.

When the animals had been cared for and fires built, the Indiansgathered around in considerable numbers. As they were talking amongthemselves, the writer understood and commenced to speak with themin their own dialect, at which they were surprised and said one toanother, "Who is this man, that talks our talk? He has never been inour country before." I was no less astonished myself; and I call thereader's attention now to the peculiar feature of a man being calledto fit himself out with provisions to last him thirty days, travel outin the desert two hundred and fifty or three hundred miles, and preachto a tribe of Indians in whose country he had never been and whom hehad never seen before. Yet when the agent's interpreters failed to getthe Indians to understand, the agent asked if I could talk with them. Itold him I had never seen these Indians before that hour, "but," saidI, "I understand them, and you see they understand me." "Yes," saidthe agent, but I do not see how it is that you can talk with them. Ihave two men employed as interpreters, but they cannot make the Indiansunderstand. Now if you can make them comprehend what I wish to tellthem, I will pay you three dollars per day from the time that you lefthome until you return there."

"I do not know whether I can do your talking or not," was my responseto this proposition. "I came here to preach to this people, and I havepower given me to do it in their own tongue. But I do not know whetherI will be permitted to speak for you or not; if I am, I will talk foryou." "All right," said Mr. Armstrong, "have them form a circle infront of my wagons, and tell them who I am, and what the great fatherat Washington has sent me here for; that I have brought them clothingand blankets as a present from the great father at Washington, and thathe expects them to be good people and live in peace with each other,and also with other people, and if they will do so the great fatherwill send good men to bring more goods to them."

When I told them what the agent wanted, they at once formed a circle asdesired, to the satisfaction of all present. Then the agent distributedthe goods, to the great pleasure of the Indians. He talked very kindlyto them and gave them much good advice. I interpreted what he said, andthen continued to preach to them, telling them about the Book of Mormonand their forefathers, and many other things of interest to them. Iseemed to have perfect liberty of speech as I desired it, in theirdialect, and they listened attentively to all I had to say.

The next day Seth M. Blair, Peter Conover, Ormus Bates and myself andfour or five other men that belonged to the missionary part of thecamp, employed an Indian guide to travel south around the head of DeepCreek, to see what natural advantages there were for settlements, butwe failed to find anything inviting until we came to Deep Creek, wherethe country seemed quite suitable for stock raising. About the 11th ofSeptember the party returned to the agent's camp, where we again metwith many of the Indians, who wished us to stop and live with them astheir friends, adding, "If you will not stop with us, then tell the bigMormon captain to send some good Mormon men that will tell the truthand show us how to make clothes like the white man."

It was the next day, I think, that the party started back to Salt LakeCity, the agent having secured his team horses. We traveled north ofGranite Rock, and around the point of the mountain to the lake, thencealong the shore to Grantsville. We tarried one day with Mr. Cooley, andpartook of the hospitality of himself and family.

After our visit to the Deep Creek Indians, some of them claimed to havereceived dreams and visions, in which heavenly messengers appeared andtold them to go into Tooele and call on the Bishops, who would tellthem what to do, and for them to obey the Bishops. Accordingly, scoresof them went to Grantsville and related their story, when they weretold to believe in Christ and repent and be baptized. Many of themobeyed this advice, and then a missionary was sent out and locatedamong them.

With our one day's rest at Grantsville, the party continued on to SaltLake City, where Mr. Armstrong paid me ninety dollars in cash for myservices as interpreter. I returned home and paid the ninety dollarson the mare I had purchased on credit for the mission. My labors asa missionary, however, were still called for, and I visited all thesettlements in Weber County, also the Indian camps, and acted as apresiding teacher in Ogden City, often being called to arbitratedifferences between the white people and Indians. About that time Snag,the Bannock Indian chief, and twelve of his prominent men called on meto accompany them to Salt Lake City to see President Brigham Young onsome business. They said they wished a friendly talk, and to tell someof their grievances and ask some favors of him. The latter constitutedthe greater part of their business. I accompanied them to PresidentYoung's residence, where he received them kindly, furnishing them withnecessary supplies of food and fuel. Next day, after they had had avery friendly talk with the President, he gave orders to the Bishopsin the northern settlements to supply the Indians' wants as far aspracticable, as it was cheaper to feed than to fight them. Then afterall the complaints of the Bannocks had been satisfactorily adjusted, weleft, they for their homes in the north near Fort Hall, the writer forOgden, where I continued my labors.

CHAPTER LI.

UTAH MILITIA ORGANIZED—ELECTED CAPTAIN OF A COMPANY—HEAR OFJOHNSTON'S ARMY—SCOUTING PARTY SENT OUT—I AM CHOSEN AS GUIDE—TRAVELTO THE BEAR LAKE COUNTRY—COLD NIGHTS AND LITTLE FOOD—COMPLAINT IN THEPARTY—PROVE THAT I AM RIGHT—REACH LOST CREEK—SOME OF THE MEN OBJECTTO DOUBLE GUARD—A DISCOVERY THAT REMOVES ALL OBJECTIONS—STRIKE THETRAIL OF HORSEMEN—PREPARE FOR ACTION—TAKE A CAMP BY SURPRISE—THEMEN ARE FRIENDS—ARRIVE AT OGDEN—CALLED TO GO ON AN IMPORTANTERRAND—TUSSLE WITH AN INDIAN—FAIL IN GETTING DESIRED INFORMATION, ANDRETURN TO OGDEN.

IN the spring of 1857 I rented some land and put in a crop. Soon afterthis an order came from Governor Young to the Weber County officialsto organize the militia of the county, which was done. I was electedcaptain of the first company of infantry in the Weber militia district.The company consisted of captain, commissioned and non-commissionedofficers, and one hundred men of the rank and file. Chauncey W. West,then the Bishop of Weber County, was commissioned general of thedistrict. He appointed days for drill, and four companies came togetherin Ogden City for that service.

At that time we had not learned of threatened danger from any sourceexcept occasional Indian raids; but no sooner had we got properlyorganized and ready for self-defense than news came from the east toGovernor Young that an invading army was coming, with hostile threatsagainst the citizens of Utah.

As the governor had not been officially notified of the approach ofUnited States troops, his official oath bound him to repel any invadingforces. He accordingly sent out scouts to ascertain the movements ofthe troops referred to, and soon learned that there was a well equippedarmy of nearly ten thousand men on their way west, with the avowedpurpose, it was said, of destroying the Mormon Church and people.

Some time in August General West called out twelve or fifteen men as ascouting party, to go over in the Bear Lake country, along the emigrantroad, and from there to the head of Lost Creek and down the WeberRiver. He had heard of a party going up Lost Creek, and over to theBear Lake country. General West appointed Major Monroe to take chargeof the party, of which the writer was called to be one, as I had beenacquainted with mountain travel and understood the Indian language.General West told the major to make no move of importance withoutconsulting me as to the journey.

The party proceeded to the divide between North Ogden and OgdenValley, where we halted and the major privately told me that he wasnot accustomed to journeys of that kind, and wished me to lead theparty through, for I had more experience than he had. I declined theresponsibility, but the major said: "I will be responsible if you willlead." so I headed out to Blacksmith Fork and thence to Bear Lake, andaround the east side thereof to the river. We crossed to the Californiaroad near the present site of Montpelier, thence back east to theroad where Cokeville settlement is now located. As we failed to learnanything of importance, we returned back over the river and struck outfor the head of Lost Creek, where it was supposed that we would fall inwith the scouts from the approaching army.

The nights began to be cold, and the food supply was getting low. Thehorses were somewhat jaded, the route very rough, and the most of theparty were young and inexperienced. They began to complain and saidthat nobody had ever traveled in so rough a country as that, and itwas all foolishness to be wearing ourselves out in that way. Theysaid the writer did not know himself where he was going, and I hadno business to be on the lead, as that was Major Monroe's place. Themajor, however, promptly told the party that I was in the proper place.Finally I called a halt and told the party that I knew that we weregoing just right and had been on a trail all day, but they did not knowit. They asked, "Where is your trail?" and I again told them that wewere on it. They laughed at me when I said, "I can prove it to you, andeven tell you the color of the horses that have passed this way." Butthey thought me a fool to talk thus, so I told one of the young men tojump down and remove the leaves from a root of a tree that stood nearby a steep bank, as it was plain to the practiced eye that an old trailpassed there, and when the leaves were removed he would find that thebark had been bruised at the roots of the tree by the hoofs of passinghorses. He found the trail and the bark off the tree roots, as I hadsaid. I told the men to look on the tree about the height of a pony'sside, and they would find hair that would tell them the color of theponies that had passed there. They found bay and white horses' hair.Next I said to them, "Look on the point of that snag which projectsover the trail." They did so, and found a duplicate of the hair theyhad found on the tree. Then they said that I could prove anything Ipleased, and they would not dispute with me any more.

The party passed on down Lost Creek, to a point where the country wasmore open. When camping time came we turned into a little creek bottomand put out the stock. I remarked to the major that I felt as though weshould put on a double guard that night. This was more than some of theboys thought they could stand. Several said that I would run the partyto death, but that they would not submit to any extra guard. Otherssaid there was no use for any guard, for nobody but Brown would everlead a party there; but just then some one hallooed, and we found, onlooking, that no one was missing from camp. One said it was a coyote,another that it was an owl. Again the cry was heard distinctly, and nodoubt remained of its being a human voice. Then the order was given toget up the stock, ready for whatever might come. The horses were soonpicketed near camp, and every man thought it was proper to put on adouble guard that night, some of the boys remarking that Brown was notsuch a fool as they had thought.

Things settled down for the night, and next morning the party startedout. We had gone less than a mile when we saw fresh horse tracks madeby shod horses, and the droppings looked so new that I directed ayoung man to ascertain if they were warm. The novel way in which theyoung man performed that task created some merriment for the moment.Then the party continued on a short distance, when we saw a smoke justover the creek bank ahead. Every man was ready to obey orders, and alldismounted at command and tightened up their saddle girths. Then camethe order to see that every tube was filled with dry powder, and eachman was assigned his position for action.

The party was instructed not to halt without orders, and not to leta horse put his head down to drink. If perchance we saw a blanket,a handkerchief, or any camp equipage, we were to pass it unnoticed;if brush or any obstructions were observed, we might be certain thatall such signs meant ambuscade. We then advanced cautiously and foundevidence of a party about our own number, lying encamped at the fire.We pressed forward on the trail, and found several bushes lapped acrossit, so that we felt certain we would soon fall in with those ahead,whom we felt sure could be none other than a scouting party fromJohnston's army. We prepared for the worst, and as we were moving ondouble-quick time we saw a man running towards a grove of cottonwoodtrees, from a point of the mountain. Next we saw the horses of a partyof scouts, the top of whose tent was soon discovered.

Quickly capturing the horses, we charged on the tent and surrounded it.taking the men by surprise. As they began to file out of their tent,our party leveled their rifles and called on them to surrender. Justat that moment one of the surprised party recognized one of our men,so that we only required them to acknowledge that they were "droppedon," a phrase used in those times to express the condition. We were notlong in ascertaining that the party was a scout from Davis County, inpursuit of the same reported detachment we had been sent to intercept.But neither of us had seen or heard anything of the party that wassupposed to be in the region of country we had been over. Without muchdelay, our party hastened home to Ogden City, and joined our regiment,finding much excitement and hearing many rumors.

It seemed that there was no rest for me, for in a day or two GeneralWest called on me to visit the camp of James and Ben Simons, who livedabout twenty miles up the Weber River. The men named were CherokeeIndians who, it was said, were in possession of some importantinformation which the general wanted to get. He told me to learn what Icould from the Simonses, as they were friendly.

When I got to the mouth of the canyon I chanced to meet Ben Simonscoming from Salt Lake City. It was evident the Indian had beendrinking, and as soon as I met him he drew his Colt's revolver andsaid, "Hold on there!" threatening to kill me if I was Uncle Sam's man.I succeeded in riding close alongside of him, grabbed his pistol andheld the muzzle away from me. I tried to persuade him not to shoot, forwe must be good friends. He yelled again that if I were a Mormon I mustfight his old uncle or he would kill me. He was a powerful man, and Ihad all that I could do to keep the pistol turned from me.

For ten miles I had to tussle with that Indian, and at times thoughtI would have to shoot him in self-defense; but after the mostdisagreeable and hazardous ten miles' ride of my whole life, we cameto Gordon Beckstead's ranch. Simons regarded Beckstead as his friend.The latter persuaded the warrior to dismount and have a drink of whiskywith him, and let me go my way, for I was a good friend to both of them.

I went to James Simons' camp but failed to get the information desired.Simons was very friendly, and said that if he heard anything ofinterest he would be pleased to let us know it at once. I then returnedto my regiment, which was ordered into camp the next day. We bivouackedon the east bench in Ogden City.

CHAPTER LII.

OFF ON ANOTHER SCOUT—AGAIN ON BEAR RIVER—DREAM OF SEEINGTROOPS—DREAM FULFILLED—SEND WORD BACK OF DISCOVERY—FIVE HUNDREDCAVALRYMEN—HEAVY STORM—MY ONLY REMAINING COMPANION TAKEN ILL—HEIS HEALED AND I AM STRICKEN DOWN—CAMP IN THE SNOW—MY COMPANION,EXPECTING ME TO DIE, PREPARES TO TAKE MY BODY HOME—HE RETURNS,PRAYS FOR ME, AND I AM HEALED—STRICKEN DOWN AGAIN—I DIRECT HIMTO LEAVE ME AND RETURN HOME—HE OBEYS RELUCTANTLY—I EXPECT TODIE—PECULIAR EXPERIENCES—FOUR YOUNG MEN, SENT BY MY COMRADE,COME TO MY RELIEF—JOURNEY ON—LIGHTING FIRE IN A STORM—THE YOUNGMEN PRAY FOR ME, AND I AM RELIEVED—TRAVELING HOMEWARD—KINDTREATMENT—REACH OGDEN—ACT AS SEXTON—GUARD OVER SPIES—UTAH MILITIARECALLED—MISSIONARY LABORS IN WEBER COUNTY.

THE first night in camp at Ogden, General West and his adjutant, D.Gamble, called at my tent, and told me I was wanted to take chargeof a scouting party to go over in the Bear Lake country, and startby sunrise next morning. They directed me to choose the men I wouldlike to have accompany me, and they should be released to go home andprepare. I made a list of five young, active men, who met me nextmorning at sunrise, having received their orders. We proceeded to theemigrant road across the Bear River, about fifteen miles above thelake. There we met with some emigrants, but could not learn anythingfrom them, so we crossed back to the foot hills, and there camped in asecluded place, where we could overlook the emigrant road. Next morningat 4 o'clock I awoke from a dream, in which I had seen two hundred andfifty cavalrymen come and pitch camp just across the river from wherewe were; then I saw two hundred and fifty more come and reinforce thefirst detachment; I also saw their baggage and artillery wagons. I wasimpressed so forcibly with the dream that I called my comrades and toldthem to prepare for a move, while I went up one of the high pointsand watched developments. At daybreak I saw the camp of the first twohundred and fifty men, saw them form in line for roll call, and amounted guard drive their horses across the river towards our camp.

The main object of our scout was to learn if the army or any portion ofit was coming down Bear River and into Salt Lake Valley from the north,and if we saw any troops on that route to communicate the informationto headquarters at the earliest moment possible, so that our forcescould meet them at the best places on the route, and repulse them.That that end might be served I sent two of my men with a dispatch toGeneral West, and as soon as the messengers had gone out of call Iagain went on the hill. Everything was ready to move as developmentsmight indicate, and just as the first party was saddling its horses Isaw the second two hundred and fifty come up and join the first party.Then the five hundred cavalrymen proceeded down the river, just as Ihad seen them in my dream. This necessitated a second dispatch and twomore of my men, leaving me only one, with whom I followed up the troopstill they camped. It rained and snowed alternately all that day andnight. My comrade, James Davis, and I went after dark within the linesof the troops, but did not learn of their intentions. Davis was takenwith something like a congestive chill, and we were forced to retreatinto the hills, where we camped for the night. Davis was so bad that Iworked in the storm all night with him and prayed for him; at last hewas healed and we set out on our way home at daylight.

About 8 a.m. the writer came down sick, just the same as my friend hadbeen, only I also suffered with pleurisy in the right side. I couldride no further, so we camped in the snow, where it was about eightinches deep. Snow was still falling as it can only in the mountaincountry. Our clothes were wet as could be, and our blankets were in thesame condition. The only food we had was the crumbs and dust from somecrackers.

Davis succeeded in making a fire, but by that time I had cramped sothat I could not speak. Davis, supposing I was dying, started out to aquakingasp grove to get some poles to make an Indian litter or drag,on which he thought to take my body home. As he went he felt he oughtto have faith and pray for his comrade, as he had been prayed for thenight before; so he fell on his knees and prayed, as he afterwardssaid, as he never had done before. Then something said to him, "Go backand put your hands on him and pray again, and he will be healed;" andit was even so.

We then traveled some fifteen miles, when the sun shone. We partlydried our blankets by a fire and the sun, and continued our journeyfor some ten miles, when I had a second attack of illness, which wasso severe that I thought I had better die alone in the mountains thanto allow the enemy to gain the advantage in the country. Consequently,I told Davis to make my horse fast by the trail and spread myblankets, that I might lie down. This done, I directed him not tospare horseflesh, but take the news to our friends as soon as it waspossible. Davis did not want to leave me in that plight, but was urgedto go. He started reluctantly, and in tears.

For a time it seemed that I had rendered my last services to familyand friends, as I lay down by an Indian trail, sixty miles from anywhite man's habitation. While I was pondering the situation, a magpiecame flying down over me, and said "quack," then alighted on a willownear by, in plain sight. Next came a raven, which gave its "croak," asit settled down near me, and it seemed as though it had found prey.Being aware of the habits of these carrion birds, I wrapped my headin blankets, to prevent the birds from picking out my eyes, if theworst came to me; yet I knew that my body could not be protected fromthe wild beasts that roamed in the mountains, such as the bear, wolf,wolverine, panther or mountain lion, wild cat and lynx, some of which,if not all these various kinds, would be tugging at my carcass insideof twenty-four hours.

Then the birds circled over me, as if to say, "We want an eye," orsome fragment of my body, I felt that my time was nigh, and unless theprovidence of God interposed, I would go the way of all the earth beforethe rising of the sun. I was chilled to the very bone, and cramped sothat it was impossible for me to build a fire. It did not seem possiblefor me to survive until my companion could ride sixty miles and sendrelief.

While I pondered the situation, four young men who had been sent withfresh horses and food supplies came up, they having met Davis, whosent them on with all speed. I think the eldest of them was not overseventeen years old. They soon built a fire and prepared much neededrefreshments, and I was greatly benefited by that special providence ofGod, as it certainly seemed to me to be. While I partook of the food,the young men saddled my horse, rolled up my blankets, and we rodeeight or ten miles that night, and camped while the rain came down intorrents. The boys soon provided me with shelter by sticking willows inthe ground and winding the tops together and spreading blankets over,so that it afforded a little protection for me, and I was soon wrappedin wet blankets.

The next thing was to start a fire. Every match had got wet, and theboys thought it impossible to make a fire, so they asked me what theyshould do. I told them to get some cotton out of a quilt if they couldfind a dry spot in it, then put a small priming of powder in a rifleand ram down the cotton on the powder; in the next place, go to theheaviest topped sagebrush they could find, and carefully reach underand strip the dry bark off the main stalk of sagebrush, and in that wayget a tinder, then come to my shelter and hold the bark loosely overthe muzzle of the gun and fire it off. They got a light, but they hadtoo much powder and it blew the fire out. They tried repeatedly withoutsatisfactory results, and the case was becoming desperate, as darknesswas coming on. Two of them got under cover with me, and I finallysucceeded in measuring the powder to them. Then they started a flame,and as wood was plenty they made a rousing fire.

In the meantime I took to cramping and suffered so severely that oneof the boys remarked. "Brother Brown will die. O what shall we do?"Another said, "Let us pray." Then one led in prayer, and he prayedmightily. As soon as he was through, one said, "Let us go in and layhands on him," and in a moment they all gathered around me, placedtheir hands on my head, and prayed from their hearts. The crampingceased and never returned as severe as it was before; yet I sufferedgreatly from the pain in my side. The writer regrets very much that hecannot recall the names of those young lads. I believe they were allsent from Willard City, Box Elder County. God bless them, whoever theyare. Their action showed them to be young heroes, with great faith inGod; and but for them I would have died that fearful night.

Next morning, the party was up, and off we went down Blacksmith'sFork Canyon and across to Wellsville, where I was taken in by BishopPeter Maughan and his good wife, who did all they could to relieve mysufferings. The Bishop also saw that the boys were well taken care of.

The following morning Samuel Obray drove up with a light, coveredwagon, and a good team, and I was helped into the wagon. Sister Maughanhad provided a large canteen full of composition tea. She came to thewagon, and without thinking of anything else, she placed it partlyunder the side where I had the pleurisy pain. Then the team startedfor Brigham City, and before we had gone five miles the pain haddisappeared from my side, thanks to the Bishop and Sister Maughan fortheir special kindness, and S. Obray. The latter delivered me into thehands of Colonel Smith in Brigham City, where I was cared for untilnext day, and then the colonel forwarded me to my home in Ogden City,where I recovered after suffering from a severe cold and cough for afew days.

During my absence the regiment had gone to Echo Canyon, and there wasscarcely an able-bodied man to be found in the city. The women andchildren were cutting and hauling wood, and doing all the outdoor workas best they could. A great deal of sickness was brought on by exposureand hardships. At a Sabbath meeting a general vote of thanks was giventhe writer for his efforts for the general good of the people and hisself-sacrifice.

About this time there was a very worthy young man named Yough, whodied, and I was called on to take the part of sexton and bury thedeceased, as well as some small children that had died. Meanwhile,there were four prisoners brought in from the north; they weresupposed to be spies. I was called on to be one of the guards to takethem to Salt Lake City, where they were turned over to the militaryauthorities. Then I returned home, to learn that the troops my scoutsand I had seen on Bear River were General R. T. Burton's battalion ofUtah cavalry, which had been sent out to intercept a detachment ofJohnston's army which had been discovered in that direction, but hadreturned to the main body, which went into winter quarters at FortBridger. Then the Utah militia was withdrawn from Echo Canyon.

I was next called to take up my missionary labors in Weber County.From 1856 to 1859 I baptized and rebaptized four hundred persons, andvisited with the catechism from house to house. In that work I spentthe winter of 1857-8.

CHAPTER LIII.

MORMONS ABANDON THEIR HOMES AND MOVE SOUTH—PREPARE FOR THE WORST—GOTO PAYSON—AFFAIRS BEING SETTLED, RETURN TO OGDEN—CALLED TO GOEAST AS A MISSIONARY—JOURNEY ACROSS THE PLAINS—MEET MY PARENTS INIOWA—PREACHING AND TRAVELING—MY FATHER'S TESTIMONY—MISSIONARYLABORS—CALLED TO MISSOURI—SENT TO BRING A HERD OF CATTLE—RETURN TOMY PARENTS' HOME—BID FAREWELL TO THEM—PURCHASING CATTLE.

SOME time in May, 1858, as I remember, an order came from PresidentBrigham Young for everybody living north of Utah County to move southand leave their homes prepared for burning; for it had been decidedthat if Johnston's army came in, as it had threatened to do, withhostile intentions, the people would lay waste the country and fightto the bitter end. I do not remember that there was a dissenting voicefrom this determination.

Everybody moved out to the south, myself and family going to Payson,one hundred miles from Ogden. There we made a camp, and I cut wild hayand hauled it for a livelihood, that being the only employment I couldfind.

In the latter part of July, when peace had been re-established, Ireturned home and made hasty preparations for my family for the winter,as I had been called by President Brigham Young to accompany GeneralHorace S. Eldredge to Florence, Nebraska, with a company consistingof twenty men who were going on business and partly as missionaries.I belonged to the latter class. I went into the western part of Iowa,being assigned to that field of labor, while the others went to theirseveral destinations.

The company was to have moved out on the 1st of September, so I. A.Canfield and I, fitted with a four-mule team and light wagon, were inSalt Lake City ready to start at the appointed time; but the rest ofthe party would not or could not be ready for ten or twelve days, so wereturned home and stayed until the 11th. We then went to Salt Lake Cityand waited until the 14th, and, as the party was still tardy, we movedout to the top of the Little Mountain, and there camped. From thatplace we proceeded to the Weber River, where we were overtaken by JohnNeff and Dusten Arna, who were to join the party when it came up. Astheir teams were not in the best of plight for the journey, we traveledtogether to Ham's Fork, where we stopped on the 19th, and waited forthose yet in the rear to come up. About 8 o'clock that evening H. S.Eldredge, Jos. W. Young and Horton Haight reached our camp.

On the 20th, the company having got together, proceeded on the way tothe Sweetwater. On the 26th we reached the Platte River, where I wastaken very sick with hemorrhoids of the bowels. With that exception,all moved smoothly. On the 28th we passed Fort Laramie, and my healthbegan to improve, though I had been brought almost to death's door, andthe company was detained one afternoon in consequence. After that Iimproved, and the company made rapid headway. October 3rd two desertersfrom Fort Laramie passed the party. They had stolen two horses and amule from the government, and, as I remember it, made good their escape.

Nothing happened out of the ordinary until October 19th, when theparty arrived at Florence, Nebraska, on the Missouri River. From thatpoint each went to his field of labor or to his business, as plannedbeforehand. Canfield and I crossed the river to L. O. Littlefield's, inCrescent City, and stayed over night with him and his family, and onthe 20th proceeded on our way to Calhoun, Harrison County, Iowa, wheremy father lived with his family. We were soon overtaken by Clayton Webband B. H. Dennis, my brothers-in-law. I accepted a seat in their buggyand they took me to my father's home.

I had not seen father for eleven years. I was an entire stranger toevery one of the family, who kept a hotel. I went in and ate withstrangers, and did not make myself known until after all the eveningwork was done. Then after I was satisfied that they had not theremotest idea of my identity, I told them who I was. It was sometime before they could realize that what I said was true. To them itseemed that the dead had come to life, and the long lost had beenfound, for they had all given up hope of ever seeing me again. It wasnot difficult for me to recognize my father and mother, but my elderbrother and sister were dead, and the younger ones had all grown out ofmemory.

When I had visited with them a few days, I preached several times inthe public schoolhouse, and then traveled and preached. On one occasionI had a walk and talk with my father alone. We talked of my absence,and he said, "James, I had given up all hopes of ever seeing your faceagain, but thanks be to God I have that privilege. You always havestood up for the faith and have been a man through thick and thin foryour religion." Then he said, "Oh that I had the faith that I once had,and felt as I have felt! I would be a happy man if I had the spiritthat you have, and that I once had." He burst into a flood of tears,and exclaimed, "Oh, my God, I am in the dark and I do not know that Ishall ever feel as I once felt. Then I could divide the last loaf, yes,the last morsel of food that I had with a Mormon. Talk about heaven!The true spirit of Mormonism is heaven. I thank God that you have keptthe faith, though you have had a hard time of it." Then he added,"James, stick to it and never give it up; for if there is any salvationfor me or any of my family it will be through you, for you are theJoseph of my family, and I have known it since before you were born."He then seemed as humble as a little child, and continued: "James, befaithful in the work, but as for me or any of my family going to Utah,I don't think we will ever go."

I told him he could do no better than to go with his entire family andrenew their covenants, for the good Spirit was for all who would seekit in the proper way. At last father said that he did not know whatthey should do yet, the weather being wet and cold.

We returned into the house and I stayed with the family the firstmonth, preaching in the public schoolhouse every Sabbath. Then mybrother Willis and I traveled around from place to place, and preachedeverywhere we found an opportunity, first to Raglan Township, and thento the northeast, forty miles into Shelby County. We preached severaltimes in Garden Grove schoolhouse, and went from there to a small towncalled Monteno, thence to Pottawatomie County. We preached to a fullhall in Council Bluffs City, then went out on Mosquito Creek, in whatwas called the Garner settlement. Thus we continued to travel andpreach from place to place and bear our testimonies, as health andopportunity permitted.

In January, 1859, preached my cousin Ira Johnson's funeral sermon; hehad been accidentally shot and killed while out with a surveying partyin that region of country. The same day I baptized six persons andconfirmed them; this was at my father's house, and from that time myfather seemed quite changed in his feelings. He said it was all that hecould do to keep out of the water, and stated that he had never feltbetter in his life than he did on that occasion. Said he, "James, Iwant you to preach all the time."

On April 7th I received a letter from General Horace S. Eldredge,asking me to come down to Platte County, Missouri, and receive onehundred and seventy-seven head of work oxen that he had contractedfor with Mr. Lampton and Mr. Thompson, cattle merchants. Having alsoreceived the written contract for the cattle, I started on the 8th,and on the 9th I took passage on the steamboat Satan, which layat the Council Bluffs landing. I paid ten dollars for passage toParkville, Platte County, Missouri. The boat called at all importanttowns and landings. Nothing out of the ordinary happened except thatwe were driven under a high sandbank in a short bend of the river,by a powerful wind storm, and in trying to extricate the boat, theside-wheel next the shore threw the water with such force against thebank as to cause it to cave in onto the boat, so that the guards andwheelhouse were carried away.

I landed at Parkville on April 13th, stopped overnight, and on the 14thproceeded eight miles to Mr. Thompson's. On the 15th I went with himto his partner in the contract, Mr. Lampton. The men General Eldredgepromised in his letter on the 15th to send to help drive and care forthe cattle, did not arrive until the 27th, when Eldredge came with fivemen. He furnished money to pay the expenses, and gave instructions,then returned to St. Louis. On the 28th, 29th and 30th, myself andparty received and branded one hundred and seventy-seven head of workoxen and two valuable mules.

We started for the north on May 1st, traveling through Rochester,Marysvale, Lindon and Sydney, keeping from the river and on the high,rolling prairies, through what was called the Platte purchase inMissouri. We arrived in Council Bluffs on May 15th, and went fromthere to Florence, Nebraska, where I delivered up the drove of cattleand span of mules, on the 16th, to Bishop Frederick Kesler, who wasGeneral Eldredge's agent. We lost but one head from among the cattle,although we had an exceedingly stormy and muddy time of it most of theway, having to swim several streams that had been swollen by the heavyrains, so that the journey was taken with great hardships, and dangeras well.

I went to my father's home on the 17th, in Calhoun County, Iowa,settled with my father, who was very kind to me and my brother Willis,helping us to two yoke of oxen to cross the plains with. We badefarewell to the parental home and to the family on the 27th. Fatheraccompanied us to Council Bluffs and paid our expenses until the 30th,when we parted with him. We crossed the river at Omaha, and moved up toFlorence, where we went into a camp or rendezvous and waited for othersto come to make a company strong enough to cross the plains.

The company had its camp some three miles northwest of Florence, whereGeneral Eldredge, the Church agent, and Elder George Q. Cannon, agentfor the European emigration, both called on me to go out into Nebraskaand also to cross into Iowa and purchase work cattle for them. Eachfurnished me with five hundred dollars in gold then, and as it was thetime that hundreds of gold hunters were returning from Pike's Peak, Ihad great success in my purchases, spending a thousand dollars somedays in the purchase of cattle, buying whole teams as they stood on theroad, sometimes wagons, equipage and provisions. I would hire a trustyman to drive them up to Florence, and then I would replenish my pocketsand go on again. For ten days I traveled early and late, and didthousands of dollars' worth of business for the Church and emigration.

CHAPTER LIV.

GIVEN CHARGE OF A COMPANY TO CROSS THE PLAINS TO UTAH—COMPOSITIONOF THE CAMP—START WEST—PERFORM BAPTISMS—MEET A WAR PARTY OFSIOUX INDIANS—PLACE WHERE A. W. BABBITT WAS KILLED—MEET MOREINDIANS—HOW TROUBLE WAS AVOIDED—CAMP LIFE AND DUTIES—ENTER SALT LAKEVALLEY—COMPANY GREETED BY THE CHURCH AUTHORITIES—REPORT TO PRESIDENTYOUNG AND AM RELEASED—TRADE AT CAMP FLOYD—EXPERIENCE WITH A THIEF—GOTO WORK ON THE OGDEN CANYON ROAD—HARDSHIPS ENDURED.

ON Sunday, June 12th, Elders Eldredge and Cannon visited the camp andheld meeting, then organized the company, naming James S. Brown forpresident and captain, the selection being unanimously sustained.George L. Farrell was made sergeant of the guard, William Wrightchaplain, and John Gordon secretary. A captain was appointed over eachten wagons, namely: first, Wm. Steel; second, W. Williams; third,Christopher Funk; fourth, Newbury; fifth, Kent; sixth, Giddens.These names were suggested by Messrs. Eldredge and Cannon, and wereunanimously sustained by the company of three hundred and fifty-threesouls. The outfit consisted of fifty-nine wagons and one hundred andfour yoke of oxen, eleven horses, thirty-five cows, and forty-onehead of young cattle that were driven loose. We had provisions forseventy-five days.

On June 13th, 1859, the company set out for Salt Lake City, Utah.There were nine different nationalities of people represented, namely;English, Irish, Scotch, Welsh, Danish, Swedish, Norwegians andIcelanders; we also had some Americans from the Eastern, Middle andSouthern States, all mixed together. Many of them had never driven anox one mile in their lives, and the result was almost like herdinga train on the plains. If it had not been for G. L. Farrell, JamesHickson, Samuel Garnet and Willis Brown, all excellent ox teamsters,besides some five or six others that were quite handy, we woulddoubtless have had most destructive stampedes. As it was, the companydid not have any serious mishaps. In a few days the train becameregulated and we had more system and order in travel. For the firstfive or six days of the journey the stock seemed in danger of beingdestroyed by flies and mosquitoes, and the people suffered much fromthe same cause. On the 18th we passed Captain Rowley with the handcartcompany.

On June 19th the camp stopped on the Loup Fork, a tributary of thePlatte River. There was a small town there called Columbus. On the 20ththe company moved up the river and camped on a small stream, LookingGlass Creek. That afternoon I baptized and rebaptized eighty souls,and other Elders confirmed them, while some men of the company bridgedthe stream. On the 21st we proceeded to Genoa Ferry, where we werejoined by Captain Walding's company of thirty-seven souls and ten morewagons, thus increasing my company to three hundred and ninety personsand sixty-nine wagons, with cattle and other property in proportion.At that place we chartered the ferry boat from J. Johnston and did thework ourselves. We paid seventy-five cents a wagon, and it took fifteenhours' hard labor to cross. The stock all swam safely over, and thecompany camped on the west bank. The handcart company came up thatnight about 10 o'clock. On the 23rd our company proceeded up the river.

We met with a company of Sioux Indians on the 24th. These formed aline of battle across the road ahead of the company, and sent two mento meet us. I was traveling in advance of the company, and althoughI had never been among the Sioux Indians in my life for an hour, norhad I ever been where I had an opportunity to study their language, Ihad not the slightest difficulty in talking to them, or they to me.Consequently I learned at once that these Indians were on the war path,and were hunting the Omahas and Poncas. They were hungry and said theymust have food from the company; so they were told to form a lineparallel with the road, and to keep one-fourth of a mile back, so asnot to stampede the train or frighten the women and children. They wereallowed to send two men on foot to spread blankets where the companycould put such food as we had to share.

Meanwhile I gave orders to the sergeant of the guard, G. L. Farrell,and the several captains to draw up in close order, have every teamsterin his place, and all the women and children in the wagons, and foreach man to have his gun where he could lay his hand on it without amoment's delay. Each family was to place some food on the blankets bythe roadside. Not one team was to stop without orders. The wagons wereto be corralled as quickly as possible, if they must be, at the firstsignal from the captain to do so; for the Indians appeared very warlikein their paint and feathers.

When the red men learned that it was a company of Mormons they hadmet, they readily complied with the captain's terms, and a number rodeup and shook hands with him. As the company passed their lines of notmore than one hundred and fifty warriors, there came fourteen buffaloin sight, quite close, and attention was turned to them so much thatthe Indians took what the company had placed on their blankets and wepassed on without further interruption.

It was about this date that the teamsters had become acquainted withtheir teams and the latter acquainted with their drivers, so thatthings began to work more orderly than before. The camp was calledtogether every evening for prayers, and for instructions for the nextday.

About the 26th the company started across from the Loup Fork to WoodRiver. That night the stock took fright and gave some trouble beforethey were recovered; but the next morning the company resumed itsjourney, leaving Wood Birdno to pursue two valuable young fillies, onehis own and the other belonging to Captain Brown. Mr. Birdno did notovertake the company till the fifth day.

One evening the company camped on a tributary of the Platte River,where Almon W. Babbitt was killed by the Sioux Indians some eighteenmonths or two years before. The company crossed the stream and campedjust opposite where that terrible tragedy occurred, and just as thecattle were being unyoked the Sioux Indians flocked into camp, allwell-armed warriors. I saw that it was quite possible that they meantmischief, as there were no Indian families in sight; so I called tothe company to continue their camp duties as if nothing unusual hadhappened, but for every man to see to his firearms quietly and be readyto use them if an emergency should arise. Then I turned to the chief,and it being again given to me to talk and understand the Indians, Iasked what their visit meant, if it was peace that they go with me tothe middle of the corral of wagons and smoke the pipe of peace and havea friendly talk, as myself and people were Mormons and friends to theIndians, and that I wished them to be good friends to me and my people.

The chief readily responded, and called his peace council of smokersto the center of the corral, where they seated themselves in a circle.I took a seat to the right hand of the chief and then the smoking andtalking commenced. The chief assured me that their visit was a friendlyone, and to trade with the emigrants. I inquired of him why, if theirvisit meant peace, they all came so well armed. He answered that hispeople had just pitched camp a short distance back in the hills, andnot knowing who we were had come down before laying down their arms.

By this time it seemed that there were about three Indians to one whiteperson in the camp. I told the chief that it was getting too late totrade, my people were all busy in camp duties, and I was going to sendour stock to where there was good feed for them. It was my custom, Isaid, to send armed men to watch over them, and the guards always hadorders to shoot any wild beast that might disturb them, and if anybodywere to come among the stock in the night, we thought them to bethieves and our enemies. If they attempted to drive off our stock, theguards had orders to shoot, and our camp guards also were ordered toshoot any thief that might come prowling around camp at night. I saidthat, as we did not desire to do the Indians any harm, we wished thechief and his men to go to their camp, as it was now too late to trade.But in the morning, when the sun shone on our wagon covers, not when itshone on the mountain tops in the west, but when it shone on our tentsand wagon covers, they could leave their arms behind and come down withtheir robes, pelts and furs, and we would trade with them as friends;but he was not to allow any of his men to visit our camp or stock atnight.

The chief said that was heap good talk, and ordered his people toreturn to their own camp. They promptly obeyed, to the great reliefof the company, which had been very nervous, as scarcely one of themexcept myself had ever witnessed such a sight before.

Next morning, between daylight and sunrise, the Indians appeared onthe brow of the hill northeast of camp. There seemed to be hundreds ofthem formed in a long line and making a very formidable array. Just asthe sunlight shone on the tents and wagon covers they made a descenton us that sent a thrill through every heart in camp, until it wasseen that they had left their weapons of war behind, and had broughtonly articles of trade. They came into the center of the corral, thepeople gathered with what they had to trade, and for a while a greatbargaining was carried on. For once I had more than I could do inassisting them to understand each other, and see that there was nodisturbance or wrong done in the great zeal of both parties.

The trading was over without any trouble, there was a hearty shaking ofhands, and the company resumed its journey up the river, passing andbeing repassed by numerous companies moving west to Pike's Peak and toUtah, California, or Oregon. There were gold seekers, freighters, and ahost of families of emigrants; and as the company advanced to the westwe met many people going to the east. They were traveling all ways,with ox, horse and mule teams, as well as by pack trains of horses andmules; while some were floating down the Platte River in small rowboats.

I have omitted many dates, but feel that I must say that some timein July we came up with Captain Horton Haight, who started two weeksahead of us, with a Church train of seventy-five wagons of freight.Both trains passed Fort Laramie that same day. Mine camped seven milesabove the fort on the river, where we laid over the next day, and hadour wagons unloaded and thoroughly cleaned from the dust and dirt;then they were reloaded so as to balance their loading anew. All sickcattle were doctored, while the female portion of camp washed and didconsiderable baking. The next day we proceeded on to the Black Hills,in good spirits, the people generally well and encouraged. The roadthen began to be rough and gravelly, so that the cattle began to getsore-footed, and that changed the tone of feelings of some of thepeople.

We went on in peace over hills and dales to the Sweetwater, thence upthat stream to what was called the last crossing, where we stoppedone day, and again overhauled our load, doctored sick cattle, baked,etc. From there we crossed the summit of the great Rocky Mountains toPacific Springs, so called because their waters flow down the Pacificslope. From that point we traveled over very sandy plains and saleratusdeserts, to the Little Sandy, then to what was called the Big Sandy,and thence to Green River, the last hundred miles being the mostsoul-trying of the whole journey, owing to being sandy and poisonous tothe stock. We traveled day and night, all that the cattle could endure,and in fact more than many of the people did endure without muchcomplaint and fault-finding.

After a day's rest on the Green River, however, and being told thatthere was no more such country to cross, the train entered on the lastone hundred and fifty miles of the journey, crossing over to Ham'sFork, then to Fort Bridger on Black's Fork, and on to the two Muddysand to Quaking Asp Ridge, the highest point crossed by the emigrantroad. From there we went down into Echo Canyon, then to Weber River,crossed it and over the foothills to East Canyon Creek and to thefoot of the Big Mountain, where we met Apostles John Taylor and F.D. Richards. A halt was called to listen to the hearty welcome andwords of cheer from the Apostles. Then the company passed over the BigMountain to the foot of the Little Mountain, where we camped. Many ofthe people were sick from eating chokecherries and wild berries foundalong the roadside.

Next day we proceeded to the top of Little Mountain. When I saw thelast wagon on the summit, I left the sergeant, G. L. Farrell, incharge, and went ahead to report the approach of my company and theircondition, as there were one hundred or more without food for theirsupper. I called first on General H. S. Eldredge, and took dinner withhim. He received me very kindly, and accompanied me to PresidentBrigham Young's office. The President welcomed us as cordially as afather could. After he had inquired and was told the condition of thecompany, he sent word to Bishop Edward Hunter to have the tithing yardcleared for the cattle, to have cooked food for all who needed it, andto have the company camp in Union Square.

When steps had been taken to carry out these orders, I called at myfather-in-law's in the Fourteenth Ward, where I learned that my familywere well. Then I went back, met the company on the bench east of thecity, and conducted it down to the square, where we found Bishop Hunterand a number of other Bishops and people of the several wards, withan abundance of cooked food for supper and breakfast for the wholecompany. Several of the Twelve Apostles were on the ground to bid thecompany a hearty welcome, and delivered short addresses of good cheer.This was August 29, 1859.

Next morning, the 30th, Orson Hyde, Orson Pratt, Wilford Woodruff, EzraT. Benson, Charles C. Rich and Erastus Snow of the Twelve Apostles,Bishop Hunter and other prominent officers of the Church, came to thecamp, called the people together, and again bade the Saints welcome toour mountain home. They advised the people where to go, and what to doto support themselves for the winter.

It was while yet on the Union Square that Apostle Charles C. Rich toldme that he and others had been called to take a mission to England,leaving home in the spring, and that they would like me to go withthem; he thought I had better shape my affairs so that I would be readyfor the call.

During the day the people found shelter and friends, and I reportedto the Deseret News office and to President Young, who told me I washonorably released from any further responsibility for the company.

On our journey across the plains we had two deaths in the company, andfive births, and had lost twenty-five head of cattle—a very smallpercentage compared with losses in general.

After the interview with President Young, I followed up my brotherWillis, who had gone ahead with our team. We stopped that night atCharles C. Rich's, twelve miles north of Salt Lake City, and onSeptember 1st reached my home in Ogden City, where we found all welland pleased to meet us again.

At Ogden many friends and relatives called to see us. In a day or twoafter our arrival, we went to cutting bulrushes along the slough onthe bottom lands, with a scythe, that being the only chance for us towinter our stock. In a short time we purchased a wagon load of butterand eggs, and took it to Camp Floyd, forty miles southwest of Salt LakeCity. We made a good profit on that load, then made a second trip andhad stolen from us one of our mules worth one hundred and fifty dollars.

As we could not get a trace of the mule, Willis returned to the city toget another animal, so we could move our wagon. About 12 o'clock onenight, while he was gone and I was sleeping alone in the wagon, themoon shining bright and clear, a thief cut the hind end of the wagoncover open, and drew out one of the quilts. As he was taking the secondI awoke and caught him in the act. I asked what he was doing there,and was told it was none of my business, but to get out of his wagon,or he would send an officer after me. At the same time he put his handon an old fashioned United States holster pistol that he had in hisbelt, then staggered off, feigning drunkenness. I saw that he wentinto a corner where he could not pass out, so I hastened and calledthe landlord, Mr. Kinney, a man about sixty years old, and told himwhat had happened. Said he, "If he went in there he cannot get throughthat way." He peeped into a dark corner, where the buildings were soclose that a man could not squeeze through. "Here he is; come out, youthief," said he, and the midnight marauder made a break to pass. Theold gentleman struck at him as he went by, and the next instant I hadhim by the throat. By that time the thief had got his pistol disengagedfrom his belt, but before he could turn it towards me I caught it fromhis grasp, threw him heavily on the ground, and held him there till Mr.Kinney brought an officer.

Meanwhile we were surrounded by half a dozen gamblers, one of whomsaid to the thief, "What are you doing down there, Rainbow?" A secondordered him to get up. They all seemed to know him, but all werestrangers to me. I had passed the pistol to the old landlady, whobrought it out, offered it to the officers, and told them she saw thethief try to shoot me when I snatched it and passed it to her. At thatthe thief swore the weapon was not his, but mine, and that I had drawnit to shoot him. Then the officers told me to keep the pistol, and theylet the thief go to a saloon in a gambling house, where he treated thecrowd, and told them that he had an engagement for a woman to meet himthere that night, but he found a man instead, and that was all therewas of it. At that the officers liberated him, and I concluded that Ihad got into a den of thieves, so disposed of my load and left for homeas soon as I could. All the profit that we had made in the first tripwas lost in the second, for we never recovered the mule.

The weather being cold, we threw up that business and took a contractamounting to two hundred and fifty dollars on the Ogden Canyon road,and in the bitter cold weather of winter worked till the job wascompleted. That work finished, we took another contract to get outtimber for the first county jail in Weber County, and continued to workin the canyon until April 1st. The winter had been so long and severethat we sold part of our wearing apparel and bed clothes for hay tokeep life in our animals.

CHAPTER LV.

CALLED ON A MISSION TO GREAT BRITAIN—PREPARE TO DEPART—STARTWITHOUT PURSE OR SCRIP—JOURNEY TO SALT LAKE CITY—SET APART FOR THEMISSION—BEGIN THE JOURNEY EASTWARD—ORGANIZATION OF THE COMPANY—MYPOST AS CHAPLAIN—OVERTAKEN BY APOSTLES A. M. LYMAN AND C. C.RICH—TRAVELING THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS—SNOWSTORMS AND WIND—FORAGEIS SCARCE—MEETINGS WITH THE INDIANS—CAPTAIN REYNOLDS' EXPLORINGPARTY—ARMY DESERTERS IN OUR CAMP—MAIL FROM HOME—EMIGRANTS WESTWARDBOUND—DISSATISFACTION IN CAMP—FEELING ABOUT APOSTLES LYMAN ANDRICH—I RESIGN AS CAPTAIN, BUT AM ELECTED AGAIN, AND FINALLY RESUMECOMMAND—MAIL ROBBERY—MORE DISAGREEABLE STORMS—MEET A HANDCARTCOMPANY, AND APOSTLE GEORGE Q. CANNON—REACH THE MISSOURI RIVER—VISITMY FATHER AND HIS FAMILY—GO TO ST. JOSEPH, MISSOURI—MY FIRST VIEWOF A RAILWAY TRAIN—AT MY OLD HOME IN BROWN COUNTY, ILLINOIS—JOURNEYEASTWARD BY RAIL—ARRIVE IN NEW YORK FOR THE FIRST TIME—FIND FRIENDS.

SOME time in February of this year (1860), I received a letter fromPresident Brigham Young, informing me that I had been selected toaccompany Apostles Amasa M. Lyman and Charles C. Rich on a mission toGreat Britain, starting in April. The letter authorized me to call onBishop Chauncey W. West, to have my city and five-acre lots fenced andcultivated by labor tithing, for the benefit of my family; also for theBishop to furnish my family, from time to time, with such necessaryarticles as they needed and could not otherwise obtain. I called on theBishop as authorized, and showed him the letter, but the work he wascalled on for never was done, and my family suffered in consequence.

I settled my business and prepared for the mission, and in Aprilattended conference in Salt Lake City, where my name was presented andsustained with those of many others called to perform missions. On the19th of April, I blessed my family and bade farewell to them till Ishould be released from the duty which now rested upon me of preachingthe Gospel among the inhabitants of the British Isles. I had a hamand a few articles of food, a light change of clothing, and my rifle.These I put in the wagon of H. Hanson, who was starting to Salt LakeCity, on his way to fill a mission in Denmark. Then, with my shot-pouchand a new pair of boots across my shoulder, I began my journey fromOgden, intending to hunt up a yoke of cattle I had on the range, anddrive them to Salt Lake City. Not a dollar of money did I have—I wasentirely without purse or scrip. I found my cattle, drove them to SaltLake City, turned them over to my father-in-law, Nathan Tanner, to paya debt I was owing and to obtain some flour for food on my journey, andI was ready on April 20th, the date appointed, to leave on my mission.But some of the others were not ready, and the departure was postponedto April 25th.

On the last named date, we gathered at the Church historian's officein Salt Lake City, to be set apart and receive instructions for ourmissions. President Brigham Young there gave us counsel never tobe forgotten, and our hearts rejoiced therein. Each of us receiveda certificate of our missionary appointment, signed by the FirstPresidency, Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, and Daniel H. Wells.We were then instructed to meet next day, the 26th, at the mouth ofParley's Canyon, and to proceed therefrom under command of Joseph W.Young, our baggage being hauled by teams owned by the Church that weregoing to Florence, Nebraska.

President Young had designated me to take charge of one of the teams,with permission to leave it when Apostles Lyman and Rich overtook us,which they expected to do in three or four days. Thus I had in my carefour yoke of oxen and a large government wagon; and, in company withseveral others, went to President Young's mill south of the city. Wetook on from a thousand to twelve hundred pounds of flour to eachwagon, and proceeded to the place of rendezvous, where there weregathered thirty wagons, with about forty missionaries and the Beebe andBuzzard families, who were going back to their farms in Iowa.

On April 17th, Presidents Young and Wells came out and organized thecompany, appointing Joseph W. Young as captain, and John Woolleyas sergeant of the guard. Myself and two others were selected aschaplains. The company was instructed as to necessary duties incrossing the plains, and we started. Our route was up Parley's Canyon,then down Silver Creek to the Weber River, thence up to the mouth ofChalk Creek. At the Spriggs coal pit a number of us visited the mine,the tunnels of which went straight into the mountain side. Then weproceeded across to Bear River, and followed along the Big Muddy. TheBeebe and Buzzard families and E. D. Woolley and company continued onby way of Fort Bridger, while the rest of us made a road across thebend of the Muddy.

Apostles A. M. Lyman and C. C. Rich overtook us on May 4th, and we allcamped together that night. Walter M. Gibson and I were transferredto Samuel White's wagon, and on the 5th we bade farewell to Joseph W.Young's company, taking an early leave of them, and proceeded to Ham'sFork, on which we camped for the night. There I was made captain of thecompany, with John Tobin as sergeant of the guard, and W. H. Dame aschaplain. Guards were placed out to take care of the stock. That nightthere was quite a snowstorm.

Next morning, the weather was cold and disagreeable. We made our wayto Green River, where we met some people who had apostatized from theChurch, and were going back to St. Louis; we also met some ShoshoneIndians who were friendly. We camped on the Big Sandy that night, andhad quite a hunt for our animals, which strayed off because there wasso little grass. But we recovered all of them.

On May 10th we came to Pacific Springs, where we met Buzzard, Beebe,Woolley and company, and received them into our company without anychange in organization. That day we crossed over the South Pass andthe Sweetwater River, and camped on Willow Creek. Next day we wentthrough a number of snowdrifts, passed over the Rocky Ridge and tothe Sweetwater, following along the river. That night we met a partyof Shoshone Indians returning from a fight with the Crow Indians. Thefollowing morning, the 12th, we missed part of our animals, and weredetained till 11 o'clock securing them again. We then moved forward onour journey, and on the 13th, at the second crossing of the Sweetwater,encountered a severe snowstorm.

From then till the 18th the wind was very high, and the weatherdisagreeable. Grass was very scarce. On the 14th we met a band ofArapahoe Indians on a buffalo hunt, and on the 15th met CaptainReynolds with a party of explorers. We afterwards heard that theentire party were killed by Blackfeet Indians, on the headwaters ofthe Missouri River. On the 18th, as we were traveling down the PlatteRiver, Sergeant Min, with a small party of soldiers from Fort Laramie,searched the wagons in our company for three deserters from Camp Floyd.There were two of them in our camp. They had come to us in Parley'sCanyon, saying they had been discharged. One of them, George Kelly,showed his discharge papers, but he had re-enlisted, and deserted afterreceiving his bounty. The other was a servant who had stolen a goldwatch. His name was Alexander Demster. Both were taken to Fort Laramie.

On May 20th we arrived within seven miles of Fort Laramie, where werested our animals and attended to necessary work for proceedingfarther. We also built a raft and went across to the fort for ourmail, getting a few letters. There was none for me. We wrote to ourfamilies, and on the 22nd again moved forward. This time we had twoother discharged soldiers with us; one of them had a wife and child.I had changed from Samuel White's wagon to D. Savage's, and drove hissix-mule team most of the way. From the 23rd on we met many peoplebound for California, Oregon, or the Pike's Peak gold mines.

We passed Chimney Rock on May 25th, and rested that evening at afair camping ground. There had been some dissatisfaction on the partof owners of teams because the grass had been short and the animalswere not doing well. Fault was found with the camping places, and asApostles Lyman and Rich often had been consulted and had suggested thelocation for camp, these prominent members of our company felt thatif there were any blame in making the choice it belonged to them. Sothe Apostles asked forgiveness for what they had done, and promisedthey would have no more to do with directing the journeyings of thecompany. When I found that I was deprived of the counsel of such men, Iresigned my office as captain. John Tobin also resigned as sergeant ofthe guard. That night was passed with the camp in a disorganized state,and next morning there was no one to lead out with orders to proceed.The team owners and others found themselves well puzzled, and beganto realize the mistake that had been made. By advice of Apostle C. C.Rich, I called the company together, but none knew what to do. Finally,Elder Rich suggested that they elect as captain someone they would notfind so much fault with. The vote was for me, and at the request ofElder Rich I again assumed command, and we moved on. John Brown wasselected as sergeant of the guard.

At Ash Hollow we learned that the St. Joseph and Great Salt Lake mailcoach had been robbed on Greasewood Creek, by Shoshone Indians, andthat the mail carriers had been killed. We were detained at Ash Hollowseveral hours on the 27th, by the severe illness of A. Beebe's wife.For several days thereafter there were high winds, and showers, makingthe roads very disagreeable, so that it took us till May 31st to reachBuffalo Creek, where we saw some buffalo. The next night we campedten miles above Fort Kearney. On June 2nd we called at Dr. Henry'sranch for dinner, and seven miles further on reached the place whereJoseph E. Johnson and his brother had located, and were publishing apaper called the Mountain Echo. At this point Nephi Johnson and DanielBabbitt left us, as they had reached the end of their journey. Wecontinued on four miles further, and camped.

Proceeding on our journey, we reached and crossed the Elkhorn River onJune 6th, and that night met and camped with a company of Latter-daySaints crossing the plains with handcarts. The company was in goodspirits, and glad to see us, and we spent the evening in singing thesongs of Zion. Just as we had gone to bed, Apostle George Q. Cannon;who had charge of the Church emigration that year, came up, in companywith Horton Haight and others, and we were glad to arise and shakehands with him. He was a particular friend and brother with whomseveral of us had traveled many miles and spent many pleasant hours.After a long talk Elder Cannon turned in with me for sleep.

On the morning of June 7th, the members of the handcart company werecalled together, and Apostles Lyman and Rich gave them some goodinstructions. Then we bade them good-bye, and proceeded to Florence,where we met many warm-hearted Saints from Europe. On the 8th, Iprocured a span of mules from Horton Haight, and a carriage from GeorgeQ. Cannon, and accompanied by J. C. Rich, crossed the Missouri Riverto Calhoun, Harrison County, Iowa, where we met with my father and hisfamily. They were well, and greatly pleased to see me. We visited withmy relatives till the 11th, when J. C. Rich and I parted at CrescentCity, while I returned to Florence, where my father visited me on the12th, and invited Apostles Lyman and Rich and myself to take dinner atthe finest hotel in the town, which we did. My father promised me therethat if he lived and was able to sell his property, he would accompanyme to Utah when I returned from my mission.

On June 15th, I went to Omaha in company with J. C. Rich, F. M. Lyman,and R. McBride, where we were joined next day by A. M. Lyman, C. C.Rich, G. Q. Cannon, and John Tobin. We took passage on the steamboatOmaha for St. Joseph, Missouri, where we landed on the morning of the18th. That day while strolling through the city with Francis M. Lyman,I first saw a locomotive and railway train in motion. It was to us agrand sight, and we viewed it with admiration and satisfaction. At 6a.m., on the 19th, we boarded the train, C. C. Rich, J. C. Rich andJohn Tobin going to St Louis, and the rest of us to Quincy, Illinois,where I left the party and went to Versailles, Brown County. There Ireceived a hearty welcome from relatives and friends.

I remained in that locality five days, until the 24th, visiting uncles,brother-in-law, cousins, and other relatives, and also the farm onwhich I was reared. At Versailles, on the evening of the 21st, Ilectured, by request, on my travels and experiences. The schoolroombeing too small to accommodate the people, the Methodist church wasprocured, and was well filled, many of the audience being my oldschoolmates. They were glad to meet me, as I was to meet them.

I stayed that night with Joseph F. Vandeventer, and next day, incompany with him and his brother Thomas, visited my father's old farm,then owned by William Knox. There were many changes about the place.The cemetery was fenced into a pasture, and I was unable to find mybrother's grave. The fruit trees in the orchard were well grown, and Iwas given some good apples and the best cider I ever tasted, made fromfruit from trees I had set out with my own hands.

That day's walk brought to my recollection my youthful days, my huntsthrough the woods and my adventures, my toilsome labors in grubbingunderbrush and clearing the land, threshing wheat in the hot, autumnsun, feeding stock in the cold winter, my cold fingers, benumbed body,and frozen toes—once shedding my toenails through frost, and peelingthe skin off my feet—in short, I was reminded of much toil on thepart of my parents, brothers and sisters and myself, and of many daysof sickness with fever and ague. We returned to Versailles, and nextevening, the 23rd, after more visiting, I consented to preach, and wasgiven good attention by a large congregation. On the 24th, I went downto the river landing at the mouth of Crooked Creek, with my uncle andJoseph F. Vandeventer, but learning that the boats were uncertain, Iresolved to go to Meridotia and there take train for New York, in orderto meet Elder C. C. Rich. To do this, it was necessary for me to borrowtwenty dollars, which I did of Mr. Vandeventer. At 9 o'clock thatevening I was on my way, on the Quincy and Toledo line, passing throughthe great Wabash valley. After several changes of cars, and crossingNorth River on a ferry boat, I landed in New York City on June 26th,without knowing a soul that lived there.

I walked up to Broadway, and took a Sixth Avenue omnibus toTwenty-third Street, where I found the residence of Brother JonasCroxall, and introduced myself to his wife, as he was not at home. Ihad eaten but two meals since I got into the cars at Meridotia, andthey cost me seventy-five cents. I had ridden over one thousand mileson the cars from Illinois, and had ninety-five cents when I reachedthe end of the journey. My supper that night was provided at BrotherCroxall's. About 11 o'clock in the evening Brothers Croxall and A.M. Lyman came in, they having been on a visit together at BrotherSchettler's.

CHAPTER LVI.

VISIT VARIOUS PLACES OF INTEREST IN NEW YORK AND VICINITY—ARRIVALOF THE GREAT EASTERN—PREACH AT WILLIAMSBURG—NEW YORK'S CELEBRATIONOF THE FOURTH—MY THIRTY-SECOND BIRTHDAY—SECURE PASSPORTS AND OCEANPASSAGE—CROWDED IN THE STEERAGE—FOGGY AND WET WEATHER—VIEW OF THEIRISH COAST—FLEET OF BRITISH WARSHIPS—LAND IN LIVERPOOL—ASSIGNEDTO BIRMINGHAM CONFERENCE—IN BIRMINGHAM—LISTEN TO ANTI-MORMONLECTURE—VISITING FROM HOUSE TO HOUSE AS A MORMON MISSIONARY—PLACESOF INTEREST—TRANSFERRED TO NOTTINGHAM CONFERENCE—PREACHING ANDVISITING—MISSION TRAVELS—GO TO LONDON—SEE NOTABLE PLACES—NEWS OF MYDAUGHTER'S DEATH—BIRTH OF ANOTHER DAUGHTER—RETURN TO NOTTINGHAM.

THE 27th of June was spent with Apostle A. M. Lyman and J. Croxall,walking about the city of New York. That day F. M. Lyman and ReubenMcBride arrived, and next day Apostle Lyman and his son Francis M. leftfor Boston. With Reuben McBride, I visited the various departments ofthe place where J. Croxall and his son worked. We then crossed EastRiver with Thomas Miller, and strolled through Williamsburg. We wereintroduced to a Brother Stone and family, with whom we stayed allnight. On the 29th we were made acquainted with many Latter-day Saintsin Williamsburg, then crossed over to Brooklyn, where we went throughthe navy yard and other places; at the first named place we went onboard the old ship of war North Carolina. That day we heard the salutesfired for the Great Eastern, as she steamed up the wharf in New York.The ocean monster was hailed with joy and enthusiasm. She had beensighted at sea the evening before.

In New York City, on the 30th, we visited Barnum's museum, CastleGarden, the postoffice, and had a view of the Great Eastern. I receiveda letter from my family reporting all well. The 1st of July was Sunday,and we met with the Latter-day Saints in Williamsburg. The speakers atthe meetings that day were Apostle C. C. Rich, Elder Walter Gibson andmyself. I crossed over to New York that night, and the remainder of ourstay in the city was the guest of Bernard A. Schettler, who treated mevery kindly. During the next few days we visited many factories, shipsand places of interest, and wrote letters home. On the 4th, which wasmy thirty-second birthday anniversary, there was a grand celebration.The militia of New York City paraded, passing the George Washingtonmonument in review. There was a grand fireworks display in the evening;and in the afternoon we witnessed the aeronaut, Mr. Wise, ascend outof sight with a balloon. On the 9th we sent to Washington for ourpassports. W. H. Dame and I were appointed on the 12th to take themoney of our party, secure berths on the steamship Edinburgh, of theBlackball line between New York and Liverpool, and to purchase articlesnecessary for the journey across the Atlantic Ocean. We attended tothis duty on the 13th.

July 14th, our party, thirteen in number, went on board, and at 12o'clock noon, the vessel left the landing. We paid twenty-five dollarseach for steerage passage. There were nearly three hundred passengers,and the berths were all taken up, so our lot was rather hard. Beingvery much crowded for room as well, it was plain that our part of thevoyage was not to be very pleasant; but we were on board and had tomake the best of it.

By the 18th we were off the banks of Newfoundland, in a dense, dampfog, that obscured the sun and made it impossible to see more than afew rods from the ship. The steam siren kept up a constant whistling,to warn other vessels of our location and approach. The fog lasted tillthe 23rd, when it lighted up, but the weather was cloudy, with somerain. On the 24th a vessel bore in sight.

Next day we had headwinds, and the sun shone for a short time. We camein sight of the southwest coast of Ireland, and at the cry of "Land!"every countenance brightened. All were on deck to catch a glimpse ofthe welcome scene. As this proceeding was going on, we heard the cry,"Sail ho!" and in a short time there came into full view a fleet of hermajesty Queen Victoria's warships, eleven in number. They were steamingalong the coast to the south and in advance of us. Suddenly theychanged their course and came to meet us. When they drew near, theirsignal flags were hoisted on the masts, making a beautiful and imposingappearance.

That night at 11 o'clock we ran into Queenstown, the harbor of Cork,Ireland. There some passengers for Ireland, and mail were taken off,and we headed for the coast of England, coming in sight of Wales thenext day.

Early on the morning of the 27th we were on the muddy, dark watersof the Mersey, and soon landed in Liverpool, where the dank, smoky,mildewed walls looked to us as if they had stood for a thousand years.To our eyes the city had a very dismal and forbidding appearance.

After the usual custom house inspection, we sent our baggage to theLatter-day Saints' office at 42 Islington, and walked there ourselves,a distance of a mile and a half. At the office we met Elder N. V. Jonesand others, who received us very kindly. The following day we wereappointed to our various missionary fields, J. C. Rich and I beingassigned to Birmingham pastorate. That afternoon Elder Rich and I paida visit to Birkenhead, across the river Mersey, and met with some ofthe Saints.

Sunday, July 29th, we all attended meeting with the Liverpool Saints,in their assembly room on Great George's Street. Next day, Elder Richand I took train for Birmingham, passing through a tunnel a mile anda half long on the route. Arriving at New Street station, Birmingham,we hailed a cab and were taken to No. 163 Burton Place, Spring Hill.There we had expected to find Elder Charles W. Penrose, but he was notat home. His sister-in-law met us, and seemed surprised at our call. Itold her who we were, and we received a rather mistrustful invitationto come in; but after questioning us some she became satisfied of ouridentity, and provided us with something to eat.

Later, F. G. Blake, who was traveling Elder in that place, came in, andwe took a walk with him, meeting Elder Penrose. We all went to WestBromwich that evening, and heard one Mr. Bird, an old apostate fromUtah, lecture against the Mormons. He was doing this for money, and thelarge hall was full of people. He made many false accusations againstthe Latter-day Saints, which were loudly applauded by his ignoranthearers. After the lecture we returned to Birmingham, and stayed allnight at Elder Penrose's.

To us, Birmingham seemed as dark, smokey and mildewed as did Liverpool;but it was well located. The place was one of the busiest manufacturingcenters of the world. The railway lines passing through do not obstructor occupy the streets; on one of the roads, which is built on a seriesof arches, the cars run level with the chimneys on three-story houses;and other roads pass beneath the city, running under large houses.The New Street station was one of the best and most commodious I haveever seen; indeed it is now one of the largest in the world, occupyingeleven acres, with a fine iron and glass roof eleven hundred feet long.

After visiting from house to house with the Saints on August 1st, wepreached that evening in the Oxford Street Hall. Next day our visitingcontinued, and we found a dull spirit among the people. Trade wasvery bad, and the working people were extremely poor. Many of themwere unable to give us a good meal of victuals unless they sufferedthemselves in consequence; yet they seemed very kind to us, butsluggish in spirit. That night we preached in Hockley Chapel, FarmStreet.

On the 3rd we visited the different markets in the city; on the 4thmet Elders A. M. Lyman, C. C. Rich and N. V. Jones; and on the 5thwere with the Saints in conference in the Odd Fellows' Hall, wherelarge congregations assembled. The presidents of the branches in theBirmingham conference made favorable reports, and the Gospel waspreached by Apostles Lyman and Rich and others of the Elders. Thatnight J. C. Rich and I stayed at Brother Acock's. It did not seempossible to get the people into the notion of going to bed beforemidnight; that seeming to be the custom in the English cities.

The Gillott steel and gold pen factory was the object of an interestingvisit by J. C. Rich, F. G. Blake and myself on August 6th. We passedthrough the factory, and saw the work from rolling the large barsof steel down to finishing the pen ready for use; there were fourhundred persons employed in the factory. That evening the Elders met incouncil, and J. C. Rich and I were appointed to labor in the Nottinghampastorate. Next day, in company with several others, I visited thegrave of Elder James H. Flanagan, who died while on a mission; his bodywas interred in the old Birmingham cemetery. In the evening we had apleasant sociable at the home of Brother Smith, and next day J. C. Richand I took the train for Nottingham, where we were met at the stationby Elder Edward Reid, president of the conference, and were conductedto No. 24 Promenade, Robinhood Street, where the wife of Elder DavidJohn had dinner waiting for us. We next went to Radcliffe Chapel,where we met with a goodly number of Saints, and preached to them.Elder David John presided over the Nottingham pastorate. The day afterreaching the town I took a severe cold, and had to lay by the next day.

We found Nottingham a very different place to Liverpool and Birmingham.The town and adjacent country were not so smoky and unhealthful. Thetown had about one hundred and eighty thousand inhabitants, and was thecenter of the silk and cotton lace and hosiery industries.

On Sunday, August 12th, Elders A. M. Lyman and N. V. Jones (who hadcome from Liverpool) and I preached to the Saints; on the 13th J. C.Rich and I went to visit G. Wright, at the request of his niece wholived in Utah; his home was at Fisherton, on the river Trent, and afteran unwelcome greeting there we returned to Nottingham. Next day we wentto Mansfield with Elder James Payne, passing through the place whereRobin Hood roamed. That evening we preached to the Saints, then spentthe next two days preaching in different villages. At Pixton, on the16th, we visited a coal pit.

Leicester, the county seat of Leicestershire, and center of the bootand shoe trade, was our destination on August 19th. We preached therethat night, and on Monday visited the museum. The rest of the week wespent in visiting and preaching in several villages, then returned toNottingham. At Loughborough, on the 22nd, our meeting was disturbedby several rude young men, who laughed and asked questions in anoffensive manner. A stone was hurled through the window at me, while Iwas preaching. It passed just in front of me, but no one was hit. Themeeting was dismissed in confusion.

On the 26th, we went to Derby for a couple of days. My health continuedto be very poor during this period of my travels. Burton-on-Trent, aplace noted for the brewing of malt liquors, was visited on the 28th,and that night I preached at Branston, then stayed at the house of achimney-sweep named Doman. He had been in the Church nineteen years.Next day we preached in the pottery district, then returned to Derby,where, on the 31st, we went through Fox & Company's shot factory, goingto the top of the tower, two hundred and twenty steps. That evening wewent to a theatre.

During the first part of September, I traveled and preached, visitingNottingham, Derby, Belper and several adjacent villages. I attendedthe Derby races on the 6th; there were about twenty thousand people inattendance. On the 12th, I left Nottingham for London in company withBrothers J. C. Rich and Blackburn, and Sister Cook and daughter, goingvia the Midland railway. From St. Pancras station we went to BrotherJohn Cook's, at No. 30 Florence Street, Cross Street, Islington,London, where I made my home during my stay in the metropolis. There wemet with Elders John Brown, F. M. Lyman, and John Gleason.

I remained in London and vicinity until October 3rd. During our stayat the national capital we visited many interesting places, among thembeing the tunnel under the Thames, which is reached by a flight of onehundred steps, is four hundred yards from end to end, and while we werepassing through there were some fifteen to twenty ships lying above it,and steamboats passing over it up and down the river. We visited theBritish hospitals for invalided soldiers and sailors, and went fromthere to Greenwich, whence is measured longitude east and west, andwhere we also saw the standard weights and measures of Great Britain.

The British Museum; the King's Library; Westminster Abbey, where GreatBritain's rulers are anointed and crowned by the archbishops of theChurch of England; the Parliament buildings, wherein are the Houseof Lords and House of Commons, with the throne and the woolsack;Buckingham Palace, the city residence of Queen Victoria; St. Paul'sCathedral, which was undergoing repairs; National Gallery; CattleMarket; Zoological Gardens, with the giraffe, the hippopotamus, therhinoceros and all manner of beasts and birds; South Kensington Museum;Hyde Park; White Tower of London, where are the block and ax used inbeheading Queen Anne Boleyn and Mary, Queen of Scots, also the royalregalia, and much other material of historic value; London Bridge, withits vast traffic; Crystal Palace with its tower four hundred and twelvesteps to the top, from which can be seen six counties of England;Anatomical Museum; Madame Tussaud's Bazar; the Dockyards, and the richresidence portion of London, all were visited by us, and were veryinteresting and entertaining.

On September 13th we attended a tea party of the Saints near King'sCross station. Several times I preached to congregations, both on theSurrey side of the Thames, and on the north side. On the 14th, EldersA. M. Lyman and N. V. Jones came from Scotland to London. I received aletter from home on the 25th, Tuesday, bringing the sad intelligenceof the death of Deseret Ann, my second daughter, also of the birth toher mother, my wife Rebecca, of a daughter. I wrote an answer to thatletter the same day. During the time I was in London I had a severecold and my health was far from good. I returned to Nottingham onOctober 3rd, via the Great Northern railway, and resumed my missionarylabors in that conference.

CHAPTER LVII.

AGAIN AT MISSIONARY LABORS—BAPTISMS—BECOME QUITE ILL—APPOINTED PRESIDENTOF THE NOTTINGHAM DISTRICT, EMBRACING THREE CONFERENCES—VISITED BYAPOSTLES A. M. LYMAN, C. C. RICH AND OTHERS—SETTLING DIFFERENCES AMONGCHURCH MEMBERS—ATTEND A PHRENOLOGICAL LECTURE—GET A CHART—GO TOLIVERPOOL—IN CONFERENCE AT NOTTINGHAM—MY PASTORATE ENLARGED—WITNESSA MILITARY REVIEW—MORE BAPTISMS—VISIT SHEFFIELD—FIXING MYNAME—POVERTY IN NOTTINGHAM—INVITED TO TAKE A TRIP TO PARIS—GO TOLONDON—HAVE TO GIVE UP THE VISIT TO FRANCE—IN POOR HEALTH—RETURN TONOTTINGHAM—SEE PROFESSOR BLONDIN.

THE month of October was occupied in traveling and preaching in thedistrict where I was assigned to labor as a missionary. In fulfillingthis calling I visited, besides the town of Nottingham, which washeadquarters, Derby, Leicester, Burton-on-Trent, Radcliffe, Arnold,Hucknall, Mansfield, Pixton, Ilkiston, Woodhouse, Wirksworth, Mount St.Bernard, Tutbury and other places, preaching in some of them severaltimes. On October 23, I visited the Mount Saint Bernard monastery, anda reformatory for incorrigible boys. The first named was a Catholicinstitution.

November was occupied similarly to October, and in addition to most ofthe places visited in the last named month, I was at Belper, Carlton,Coalville and other small towns. On the 11th I baptized three youngwomen, Annie Simpson, Harriet Cadman and Eliza Bates. The weatherturning cold and stormy, my health was not very good. Apostle C. C.Rich came on the 24th and on the 28th we went to Sutton, where I had tostop for several days, I was so ill.

The month of December had some very cold and stormy weather, but myhealth was somewhat improved. I continued in my missionary district,going to several new places. I was invited by Sisters Underwood andBurrows to take dinner on Christmas. Mr. Burrows was a policeman,and was not a member of the Church. I stayed with him at his homeon Christmas night. The next evening we had a meeting in Radcliffe,at which an unpleasant spirit was displayed by some. I advised theSaints to fast and pray to get the Spirit of the Lord. Brother Johnwas offended with this advice, and remonstrated, and when the meetingwas dismissed there was a feeling of dissatisfaction among the people.On the 30th of December I was appointed to the presidency of theNottingham pastorate, embracing the Nottingham, Derby and Leicesterconferences of the Church. I was quite ill at this time, with themumps. My appointment came from Apostles A. M. Lyman, C. C. Rich andGeorge Q. Cannon, the presidency of the European mission of the Churchof Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints.

The opening of the year 1861 found me quite ill, and for the first fewdays of January I was confined to my bed most of the time. On the 6thwe held conference in Nottingham, and on the evening before, EldersA. M. Lyman, C. C. Rich, G. Gates, J. Gleason, C. Welsh, A. Orme andH. Druce came to meet with us. We had a good time at the conference.Elders A. M. Lyman and C. C. Rich stayed with us till the 11th, and Ivisited part of the time with them, going to various villages in theneighborhood, where they preached. During the remainder of the month Itraveled and preached and attended to the conference books and businessgenerally. Brother David John came to me on the 28th, being verysorry for the unpleasant remarks he had made, and we settled matterssatisfactorily to both, parting with the best of feelings. The next dayhe and his family moved to South Wales. My health continued to be quitepoor. On the 30th I took a shock from an electric battery, hoping itwould do me some good.

My health was not much improved during the month of February; but Icontinued my missionary visits and other duties, writing to my fatherand family, and endeavoring to carry the Gospel message wherever Icould. On the 13th, at the urgent request of Sister Mary Wilson, Ivisited her parents and sick sister at Newark, being kindly receivedand invited to call again. From the 19th to the 23rd, Elder C. C. Richpaid a visit to the conference and preached to the people.

On March 2nd I attended a meeting called at Pinxton to settle adifficulty among some of the members of the Church. It had continuedabout three years, but after a long meeting we succeeded in arrangingmatters, and three of the parties concerned agreed to repent and bebaptized. My visits to the various branches continued. On the 6th Ibaptized Wm. Burton, Miss Cadman and Miss Betts. On the 12th I wasassociated in the confirmation of twelve persons who had been baptizedby Elder J. C. Rich the evening before. On the 25th of this month Iattended one of the Fowler and Wells lectures on phrenology, and was sointerested that on the 28th I obtained a phrenological chart of myself.

I attended a tea party on April 1st, about two hundred persons beingpresent. The evening was spent pleasantly, in singing, reciting andspeech-making and partaking of lunch. The next day I baptized sevenpersons at Nottingham. In the course of my missionary duties, I calleda meeting of the Mansfield branch on April 9, to settle a difficultyof long standing. I released from performing any Church officialduties all who held the Priesthood, because of continual jarring andcontention among them. On the 18th I went with some emigrating Saintsto Liverpool, to assist them, settling their business and getting theirtickets.

At Liverpool, on the 19th, I accompanied Apostle C. C. Rich on asearch among the docks for a ship that could be chartered, but we werenot successful in finding one. The next day the Saints went on boardthe ship Underwriter, which had been chartered previously for thiscompany, and I assisted those who had come with me to get settled onthe vessel. The next day, Sunday, the presidency of the mission wenton the ship, where the company was organized with Elder Milo Andrusas president, Elders H. Duncan and C. W. Penrose as counselors, andJohn Cook as steward. The migrating Saints were also given appropriateinstructions by Apostles Lyman, Rich and Cannon. Next day the vesselsailed, and on the following day, Tuesday, I returned to my missionaryduties at Nottingham and vicinity. On the 29th, the day after holding aconference at Nottingham, I baptized six persons.

In the early part of May—the 5th—conference was held in Leicester,Apostle C. C. Rich being in attendance. He remained till the 9th,preaching to the people in different places. On the 17th I received aletter from Apostle George Q. Cannon, informing me that my districthad been enlarged, the Lincolnshire conference being detached fromElder Joseph F. Smith's district and added to mine, so there were fourconferences in my pastorate. On the 20th I baptized one man and twowomen who had been cut off the Church, but desired to return. Next dayI was a spectator, with about forty thousand other people, at a reviewof the Nottingham Rifles, before the Duke of Newcastle, at NottinghamForest. On the 25th Apostle G. Q. Cannon came from Liverpool, heldmeetings, and attended to business in conference.

On June 2nd I attended to three more baptisms, and on the 6th was atthe Sheffield conference, which was in charge of Elder Joseph F. Smith.During my stay there I visited a large manufactory of steel and ironware, and called on the Norfolk giant, but he was too ill to be seen.On the 13th I returned to Nottingham, traveling as far as Grantham withApostles Lyman and Rich, who went on to London. The remainder of themonth was occupied in my general duties. It was in this month that Iwrote to the Millennial Star, explaining how my name was James Brown,and then because of others of the same name I became known as JamesBrown 2nd, then James Brown 3rd, and had concluded to take my mother'smaiden name, Stephens, so that thereafter I would have an initial todistinguish me, and be known as James S. Brown.

At Nottingham, on June 6, many poor people marched through the streets,asking and singing for food, or money to buy it. The next day aftermeeting, I was presented by Sister Elizabeth Wilson with a smallanchor, cross and heart she had made out of a stone she had picked upon the beach at Folkestone, England. On the 8th I received a letterfrom Apostle C. C. Rich, inviting Elder J. C. Rich and myself to meethim and Apostle A. M. Lyman in London on the 14th, to take a trip toParis, France. Accordingly, I arranged the conference business, and wewere in London on the date named, attending conference.

Our contemplated visit to France had to be given up, however, as theApostles were called to Scotland to attend to some matters there. Wevisited many places of interest in London, such as the AnatomicalMuseum, the Polytechnic Institute, Crystal Palace, Bank of England,the Fire Monument, the Docks, Tower of London, St. Paul's Cathedral,Smithfield Market, the Mint, Windsor Castle, and Eton College. On the17th, at Crystal Palace, we heard the chorus of three thousand fivehundred children. At Eton College we found the students inclined to beimpudent, throwing pebbles at passers-by and staring rudely at them.

During the latter part of my stay in London I was quite ill, and hadto remain indoors part of the time, once being in all day. I returnedto Nottingham on the 24th, where the only thing of particular interestoutside of my missionary duties that I observed during that month wason the 30th, when I went out to the park and saw Professor Blondinperform on the tight rope.

CHAPTER LVIII.

PROLONGED ILLNESS—ATTEND TO MY DUTIES WITH DIFFICULTY—LETTER TELLINGOF THE BATTLE OF BULL'S RUN—WITNESS AN EXECUTION BY HANGING—VISITFROM GEORGE Q. CANNON, JOSEPH F. SMITH AND OTHERS—DEATH OF THEPRINCE CONSORT—GO TO BIRMINGHAM—CONFERENCE OF THE PRIESTHOOD IN THEBRITISH MISSION—LARGE MEETING IN ODD FELLOWS' HALL, BIRMINGHAM—AGAINAT NOTTINGHAM—VISIT LIVERPOOL—CONSULT A PHYSICIAN, BUT GET LITTLERELIEF—SEE THE LIVERPOOL GRAND NATIONAL RACES—DEPRAVITY AMONG POORERCLASSES IN LIVERPOOL—AGAIN AT NOTTINGHAM—RELEASED TO RETURN HOME—BIDTHE PEOPLE FAREWELL—DISPLAY OF THEIR AFFECTION FOR ME—REPORT OF MYLABORS PUBLISHED IN THE MILLENNIAL STAR—ON BOARD SHIP—PLACED INCHARGE OF THE COMPANY—SAIL FOR AMERICA—DRIVEN BY HEADWINDS ALONGTHE COASTS OF THE ISLE OF MAN, WALES, IRELAND AND SCOTLAND—SEVERESEASICKNESS—GET TO SEA—SLOW VOYAGE—DEATHS AND BURIALS AT SEA—LANDAT NEW YORK—GUEST OF HON. W. H. HOOPER—JOURNEY TO FLORENCE,NEBRASKA—CAPTAIN AND GUIDE OF INDEPENDENT COMPANY—REACH SALT LAKECITY—REPORT TO PRESIDENT YOUNG—AGAIN AT HOME.

DURING the remainder of the year 1861 I was in very poor health, oftenhaving to stay in my room all day, and when I was able to get about,many times it was with great difficulty, as I was quite lame in myhips and shoulder. I tried various applications and simple remedies,but to little purpose. I moved around as best I could, however, andby determined efforts I was able to attend to my duties, visiting theSaints, and preaching the Gospel wherever opportunity offered, whetherat indoor or outdoor meetings. Sometimes, when I was able to get tothe meetings of the Saints, I was too ill to stand up and preach, buttoward the latter part of the year my health improved a little.

The civil war in America was on, having begun after I left; and onAugust 5th I received a letter telling of the battle of Bull's Run,near Manassas Junction, which was fought July 21, 1861, and in whichthe Union forces were defeated. On the 16th of August I went to theDerbyshire jail yard in Derby, and there saw a young man named GeorgeSmith executed by hanging. He had murdered his father. From thirty-fiveto forty thousand people witnessed the execution.

On the 1st of September Apostle George Q. Cannon was in Nottingham,attending conference, and we had large meetings and an excellent time.On October 1st Elder Joseph F. Smith and other missionaries came fromSheffield on a visit, and remained several days, spending the timeamong the Saints. At Nottingham we had a tea party in the Arboretum, atwhich about two hundred persons were present. I was visiting the Saintsat Pinxton on December 14th, the day that Prince Albert, husband ofQueen Victoria, died at Windsor Castle.

I started for Birmingham on the 31st of December to attend a conferenceof those in the British Mission who held the Holy Priesthood. Thisconference began on Wednesday, January 1, 1862, and was largelyattended. We had a most enjoyable time in making reports of ourexperiences and in receiving instruction and testifying of theblessings of the Gospel. The meetings began at 10 a.m. and lastedtill 2 p.m., then at 4 p.m. and lasted till 7 p.m. They continuedthrough Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, the presidencyof the European Mission, Apostles A. M. Lyman, Charles C. Rich andGeorge Q. Cannon, being in attendance and directing the meetings. OnSunday, the 5th, we met with the Saints in Odd Fellows' Hall, thecongregation numbering about fifteen hundred persons; an excellentfeeling prevailed. Next day the Priesthood meetings were concluded, andon Tuesday I left Birmingham for Derby, in my own missionary district.On the 27th of January I was in Nottingham, and baptized and confirmedElizabeth Hardy.

My health again became quite bad, but I performed my duties, preaching,baptizing, visiting and conversing with the people on the subject ofthe Gospel, and attending to the business in my pastorate, until March5th, when I took the train for Liverpool. There I consulted Apostles A.M. Lyman and G. Q. Cannon, and on the 7th Elder Cannon introduced me toDr. Smith, who pronounced my ailment neuralgia, and prescribed turkishbaths and the magnetic-electric machine. I remained in Liverpool tillthe 22nd, occasionally visiting, in company with some of the Elders,places of interest such as the new park and the botanical gardens. OnMarch 11th we saw the Liverpool races at Aintree, a suburb. There weretwo plate races and the grand national steeple chase. At one hurdlea horse fell on his rider and the latter was picked up for dead, buthe recovered; three other riders were unhorsed. About twenty thousandpeople were in attendance at these races. It was while in Liverpool, onMarch 18th, as I was walking through the northwest part of the town incompany with Elder George J. Taylor, that I saw hundreds of people inthe most degraded state in which I ever beheld human beings.

My health having improved a little, I returned to Nottingham on the22nd, Apostle G. Q. Cannon's wife and child accompanying me. Mrs.Cannon had been very ill, and had been advised to go to Nottingham inthe hope of the change benefiting her health. On reaching Nottingham,I there resumed my missionary labors. My health again began to fail,and early in April I received notice of my release to return home. Onthe 7th of April Sister Cannon went to Liverpool in company with herhusband. I settled business of the conference and went to differentbranches and bade the Saints good-bye. They exhibited their affectionfor me by many words and acts of kindness. On April 13th I preachedmy farewell sermon in Nottingham, and it was with mingled feelings ofsorrow and joy that I bade the Saints farewell—sorrow to leave them,and joy to see the display of love toward me by both members of theChurch and numbers of people who were not members. On Monday, April14th, I went to Liverpool. The next day I wrote the following, whichwas published in the Millennial Star:

"Liverpool, April 15, 1862.

"President Cannon:

"DEAR BROTHER:—I take pleasure in writing to you a brief report ofmy labors in the ministry of the Nottingham District. On the 7thof August, 1860, I was appointed by the presidency here, namely:A. M. Lyman and C. C. Rich, to labor as a traveling Elder in theaforementioned district, where I continued my labors in company withElder Joseph C. Rich and under the pastoral charge of Elder DavidJohn, until January 1st, 1861. I then received an appointment to thepresidency of the Nottingham District, composed of the Nottingham,Derby, Leicester and Lincolnshire conferences, where I continued mylabors until the 14th instant, when I arrived in Liverpool, havingreceived your letter of release, with the privilege of returning to ourmountain home in Utah.

"I can truly say that I have taken much pleasure in my field of labor,for I have seen my feeble exertions in connection with the Priesthoodlaboring with me crowned with success. I have witnessed an increaseof the good Spirit among the Saints. We have not only witnessed thesesymptoms of increase, but have added by baptism some two hundred andfifty souls, besides many rebaptisms; and many misunderstandings of theSaints have been corrected, so that, with a few exceptions, the Saintsare in fellowship with one another.

"In that district, I think, there have been some four excommunicatedand five disfellowshiped during the last twenty-one months; and withthe present year's emigration, we have two hundred emigrated fromthat district. Suffice it to say, that the district is in a healthycondition. The Saints are feeling very well, and are full of the spiritto emigrate. Many strangers are becoming very much interested in ourmeetings, insomuch that some of them attend regularly; and on Sundayevening, the 13th, after I preached my farewell sermon in Nottingham,some four or five strangers, whom I have no recollection of ever seeingbefore,—shook hands with me, saying, 'God bless you,' and at the sametime they did not forget to bless me themselves, thus exemplifyingtheir faith by their works. I find the people in the midland countiesto be a kindhearted people; and when once you get the crust oftradition in which they are encased cracked, so as to feed them withthe bread of eternal life, they generally receive it with great joy andgladness.

"Although I have not enjoyed very good health any of the time I havebeen in this country, I feel sometimes to regret leaving the mission,when I reflect upon the memory of so many warm throbbing hearts forZion, whose circumstances are rather forbidding at present; yet Ifeel that if they would arouse with more energy and life, and bemore faithful in reading the Stars and Journals, attend theirmeetings, and be more faithful in their duties, and not pore over theirpoverty so much, the time is not far distant when they will be able toaccomplish that most desirable object of going to Zion.

"And now I beg to bid good-bye to the Saints of the NottinghamDistrict, and say, may the God of Israel bless and preserve them,together with all the Saints and the honest in heart in all the world.And as I expect to leave this country on the 21st instant, I bid adieuto her majesty's dominions and to all her subjects. I have lifted up myvoice and cried aloud, and spared not, till I feel that my skirts areclear, so far as this mission to the British nation is concerned.

"And now with kind regards to yourself, Presidents Lyman and Rich, mybrethren and co-laborers in the ministry and the many faithful Saintsunder their watchcare, I bid all an affectionate farewell, praying Godto bless and prosper every effort made to advance the interests of Hiskingdom.

"I subscribe myself your brother in the Gospel of Christ,

"JAMES S. BROWN."

I was variously engaged the next two days in preparing for the voyage,and in assisting others. On Saturday, the 19th, I went on board theship John J. Boyd, on which we were to sail. That day a young man whoresided at Nottingham and who had been courting Miss Mary Oakey, fromthe same district, came to Liverpool, and the young lady went out withhim. They were never seen again by us. We supposed they had eloped.

On Monday, the 21st, I again went on board. Apostles A. M. Lyman, C. C.Rich and George Q. Cannon came on the vessel and organized the companyof emigrating Saints, with the following presidency: James S. Brown,president; John Lindsay and J. C. Rich, counselors. The Apostles gaveus much good instructions and bade us good-bye, after which we made afurther temporary organization so as to call watches for the night;then, after prayer, we retired, it being about midnight. Next day thecompany was organized into nine wards, with a presiding teacher overeach. There were on board six hundred and ninety-six emigrating Saints,and the crew, which made the total up to seven hundred and thirty-fivesouls.

At half-past seven o'clock on the 23rd we weighed anchor, and thevessel was towed about twenty miles out to sea, and left, in a strongheadwind. We beat about the Irish Channel all day, and about 4 p.m.,drew so close to the Isle of Man that we could see the towns anddistinguish the houses. Then we tacked about and sailed away along thecoast of Wales. Nearly everybody on board was seasick, and one child,about five months old, in a family named Hardy, died. It was buried atsea on the 24th. Myself and counselors went among the people, waitingon them and cheering them.

Next day the heavy headwind continued, and the seasickness seemed verysevere. I was affected myself, but still was able to help others. Wewent along between the Isle of Man and the coast of Ireland, and by the26th, when the wind became lighter, we could see the coast of Irelandon our left and the Scottish hills on the right. We could also see theIrish houses, farms and roads quite plainly. It was noon on the 27thbefore we passed out of sight of land, the last we saw being a smallisland off the northwest coast of Ireland.

From that time on we experienced all kinds of weather, from a dead calmto a heavy gale. On the 1st of May the wind was so strong it carriedaway the jib-boom and fore-top-gallant mast. On the 5th a little boynamed Benjamin V. Williams died from a fall down the hatchway on May1st. Taking all things together, however, we got along fairly well.Once we had to complain to the captain of rough treatment by the thirdmate and some of the sailors, and it was checked. On May 21st wesighted Sandy Hook, and on June 1st we cast anchor in the bay of NewYork. On the voyage we had had cases of measles and whooping-cough, andthere were seven deaths in our company while we were at sea.

On landing in New York I received an invitation from Hon. Wm. H. Hooperfor the Utah Elders to stay at the Astor House at his expense. Elevenof us availed ourselves of the courtesy extended. On June 2nd theemigrants were landed and we proceeded west via Niagara Falls and thelakes to Detroit, then by way of Chicago, Quincy and Hannibal to St.Joseph, Missouri. From that point we went to Florence, Nebraska, bysteamboat, and there I turned over my charge to Joseph W. Young, whowas conducting affairs at that place.

I was next assigned to an independent company which had its ownoutfit, and was selected as captain and guide. The company consistedof two hundred and fifty souls, with fifty wagons and teams. We leftFlorence in the latter part of June, and arrived in Salt Lake City onSeptember 23, 1862. I made my report to President Brigham Young, andwas honorably released. I stayed in the city till after the Octoberconference of the Church, then hastened home to my family in OgdenCity, finding them all well.

CHAPTER LIX.

REMOVE FROM OGDEN TO SALT LAKE CITY AT THE REQUEST OF PRESIDENTYOUNG—NECESSITY FOR PREACHING AMONG THE SAINTS—IN THE EMPLOY OFPRESIDENT YOUNG—ON ANOTHER MISSION, THIS TIME IN UTAH—PREACHINGAND LECTURING—BUILD A HOUSE—GO TO THE CANYON TO GET FINISHINGLUMBER—SHOT IN MISTAKE FOR A BEAR—MY WOUND VERY SERIOUS—TAKEN TOWANSHIP TO RECEIVE CARE—MY FAMILY NOTIFIED AND SURGICAL ASSISTANCEOBTAINED—MOVED TO MY HOME—IN BED NINE MONTHS—TWO SURGICALOPERATIONS—GROW STRONGER—EMPLOYED AT THE WARM SPRINGS—DR.ROBINSON—ABSCESSES IN MY WOUNDED LIMB—OUT OF EMPLOYMENT—GO TO THECALIFORNIA LINE TO EXAMINE A GOLD PROSPECT—PERILOUS JOURNEY—INDIANSON THE WARPATH—REMARKABLE EXPERIENCE WITH A BAND OF SAVAGES—GIFT OFSPEAKING THEIR LANGUAGE—UNABLE TO WORK THE GOLD CLAIM BECAUSE OF LACKOF WATER—RETURN TO SALT LAKE CITY—GO TO THE GOLD DISCOVERIES ON THESWEETWATER—DISCOVER A PLACER CLAIM—AN ATTEMPT TO ROB ME OF IT—RUSHFOR A MINE—HOLD THE CLAIM—ASSAILED BY HOSTILE INDIANS—A RACE FORLIFE—THREE MEN KILLED—WE ABANDON CAMP—DEFER WITH MY LAME LIMB—LOSETHE MINING CLAIM—HAULING COAL AND PRODUCE—ALMOST DIE—CONFINED TO BEDFOR MONTHS—AMPUTATION OF MY LIMB TO SAVE MY LIFE—RECOVERY—ATTEND TOMY NURSERY—ADVENT OF THE RAILWAY—TRAVELING AND PREACHING—A SLIGHTSUN-STROKE.

SHORTLY after my return from my mission to Europe, President BrighamYoung was in Ogden, and told me he wished me to locate my family inSalt Lake City, preparatory to my going on another mission, if not aforeign, a home mission; "for," said he, "I don't know of any peopleon earth that need more preaching to than do the Latter-day Saintsat home. We send our Elders out to preach and to gather the peoplefrom workshops and factories, then set those people down here in anew country and leave them to do the best they can, without necessaryexperience; and the result is that many of them get discouraged andapostatize; whereas, if the Elders would keep the harness on, andpreach to and encourage them, they would stay and make good Latter-daySaints."

I moved to Salt Lake City according to President Young's advice, andwas about eleven months in his employ. Then, by his appointment, Itraveled through the Territory, preaching, and lecturing on my travelsand experiences. The people in Utah were liberal, giving me muchassistance, principally in the way of farm products.

In 1863 I purchased a lot from President Young, began the erection of atwo-story-adobe house, and moved into it in 1864. It was not completed,and in August I went into the mountains to get finishing lumber. On thenight of the 20th of that month I was shot by a camp mate, in mistakefor a bear. The young man who shot me was Alexander Gilbert. The bulletentered two-thirds of the way above my knee, on the inside of the leftthigh, and shattered the bone into many fragments. The weapon was aUnited States yauger, and carried a half-ounce ball, which was brokento bits, and, with parts of my clothing, including two pieces of abrass suspender buckle, lodged in my limb.

The accident occurred in Alexander Canyon, about three miles aboveWanship, Summit County, between 11 and 12 o'clock at night. There werefour of us in camp at the time. The man who did the shooting ran andtold George G. Snyder, who was soon at my side with a team and lightspring wagon, and with some stimulants. He and my camp mates tenderlylifted me on the bed, and conveyed me to the home of my father-in-law,Nathan Tanner, in Wanship, where I was kindly cared for by him and hisfamily, and my own family notified of the accident that had befallenme. My wound being of a most serious character, the best surgicalattention procurable at the time was obtained.

The surgeon advised amputation, but I objected as long as there was anyhope of saving the limb. I laid there till November, then was moved tomy home in Salt Lake City. For nine months I laid on my back, unableto move from that position. During that time two surgical operationswere performed, taking out parts of shattered bone and the bullet. Iwas reduced to a skeleton, and became so weak I could not feed myselfor even lift a sheet of paper between my thumb and finger. After thesecond surgical operation, however, I began to improve, and in a fewweeks could get around with a crutch and a cane.

As I grew stronger, I was able to work some in my nursery; and when, inthe autumn of that year, 1865, the municipality opened the Warm Springsto the public I was given charge thereof, and remained in that positiontill the autumn of 1866. I was there at the time Dr. J. King Robinson,who had had a dispute with the city over the Warm Springs property, waskilled, October 22, 1866. When I was brought from Wanship in November,1864, after being shot, Dr. Robinson, as associate surgeon in my case,was the first one to do any cutting on my limb.

During the time after I was able to move around, subsequent to themonths I had to lie in bed, my wounded limb gave me much trouble.Abscesses would form, causing me severe pain, then would burst, andwhen the pus was drained the flesh would heal again. But I was ableto perform only light physical labor, so when, late in the autumn of1866, business fell off at the Warm Springs, I was notified that, as Iwas unable to do all the work required and the bath house did not havesufficient patronage to pay two men's wages, my services were no longerrequired. While business was good I had purchased a hack, one of thefirst in the city, to convey passengers to and from the Warm Springs,the route being to the business part of town, but as traffic fell off Ihad to dispose of the vehicle. Thus when I was thrown out of employmentI was left without means of obtaining a livelihood for myself andfamily.

I had some specimens of the gold I had discovered near the southeasternboundary of California in 1849, when I was going on my first mission tothe Society Islands. I showed the specimens to President Brigham Young,and in the spring of 1867, with a company which he had authorized meto select, started for the California border, our destination being apoint in the desert known as Salt Springs. The company included WoodBirdno, Lemuel Steele, Dr. Hickman, Robert Egbert and seven othersbesides myself.

On reaching Los Vegas, we learned from white men, of whom there wereabout fifty there, that the Indians were on the warpath. Two of thesavages had been killed by the white men, and their tribe was seekingrevenge. The red men had challenged the white men to come out of theirfort and fight; but the challenge was not accepted. We were warned thatto continue the journey meant certain death, so I told my companionsthey were at liberty to return, but I proposed to go on. All of thecompany elected to do the same.

We proceeded very carefully, and in going along a narrow canyon weobserved fresh Indian tracks. These were noticeable for about fivemiles, but in that distance we saw no Indians, though we momentarilyexpected them, and kept a sharp lookout. At last we discovered oneIndian who claimed to be friendly, but he left us soon—an action whichwe accepted as an indication of trouble. In the afternoon we selected acamping place on an almost bare knoll, where it seemed impossible fora man to find shelter enough to hide himself. As I was very tired, mycompanions spread some quilts for me to lie down on. Scarce had theydone so when a large Indian rose up from a little gully where he hadbeen hidden. He was within shooting distance, and was well armed. Assoon as we saw him, my companions seized their weapons, whereupon Ishouted "Hold on!"

The Indian made a motion as if to express a wish to shake hands, andI threw my hand up and down again, in an involuntary movement, themeaning of which I did not know in Indian sign language. The strangerreceived it as a friendly invitation, and came forward and shook hands.Again, as on former occasions, I had the gift of the tongue or languagewhich the Indians in this vicinity—near Williams' Ranch—spoke, thoughI had never heard it before. I talked to him, and learned that therewere other Indians secreted close by. He called to them, and aboutfifteen rose up and came to camp. I was informed that white men hadkilled some of their number, and that one wounded Indian was lying ashort distance away. This one I asked to be brought in and laid near mybed, which was done. Dr. Hickman examined his wounds, a shot throughthe cheek and one in the hip, which he said were not fatal.

I also directed a piece of wagon cover spread out, and told the IndiansI wanted their weapons laid on that, which was done. Then some of ourcompany rolled the wagon cover up and tied it, so the guns could not begot at readily if there were trouble. Then, when our guards had beenset for the night, we laid down and slept in peace and safety. We madea bargain with the Indians to take care of our animals at a place wherethere was good grass, and they did so.

The next day we moved on and met no further trouble or danger. Wereached our destination in due course, and examined the gold prospect,which was quite rich. But there was no water within twenty-five miles,and it was not practicable to work the mines with the methods withinour reach in those days. We had to give up and return home, our routeof travel being by way of the Colorado River as far as Call's Fort,then by the settlements on the Muddy into Utah. I reported the trip andits results to President Young.

At that time there had arisen some excitement over gold discoverieson the Sweetwater, near South Pass. Fourteen years previous to thatdate I had related to President Young how the Indians had told me ofgold in that locality. President Young showed me specimens that hadbeen brought him from the new discovery, and told me to get a few menand see what I could do, as he believed it was a good opportunity forme. I did so, and in July, 1867, in company with Foster Curtis, BrowerPettit, Benjamin Brown and B. Y. Hampton, started for the Sweetwater.

Reaching our destination, we prospected for the precious metal. Oneday I went out alone, and at the base of a slope near the Teresa mineI discovered free gold. I dug a hole and worked at it, securing dirtthat carried fifty to sixty cents per pan. It was a placer claim, andI decided that we would occupy it. While I was getting out some ofthe gold, S. Sharp Walker came along and saw it, and on going to camptold the men. I did not know this till after, but early next morning,before daylight, I overheard a man in the tent next to our wagon tellof a plan to seize the claim. A lot of men were there, Mormons andnon-Mormons. I awoke my companions, and it was agreed that they shouldgo and stake the claim, while I should get it recorded. This we did,and had the work accomplished before day was fairly on. I reached theclaim, to which the others had preceded me, before those who intendedto jump it arrived at the place, and when the latter came up I wasprepared to defend it. One man said he had staked the claim beforeus, but as his statement was not true, we stood him off and retainedpossession.

Our party went to work, while I started to find my horses, which hadstrayed away. As I rode up on a knoll, I discovered a war party ofseventy-five or eighty Indians, supposed to be Sioux. I had intended todismount and fasten my saddle, but finding I was discovered and thatabout twenty-five of the Indians were closing in on me with horses muchfaster than I had. I started for camp with the loose saddle, skurryingover rocks and sagebrush. On the way back I found my horses and startedthem, and they ran directly into camp. In the ride my foot came out ofthe stirrup, and my lame limb dangled, beyond any power of mine to useit. Two Indians ran close up on me and one drew his bow with a fixedarrow. I straightened up, expecting to receive the missile in my back.Just then some of the men who were in our camp, and who had heard myshouts, came out and fired, and my pursuer turned to save himself,while I escaped injury.

At the camp all was excitement. One man, Corinth Lawrence, had beenshot and scalped, his body being found some time after I came in.Isador Morris had had a narrow escape. That day there were two otherskilled on their way to camp. They were Anthony Showell, an easternman, and Orson Taylor, from Springville, Utah. Showell was found andburied, but Taylor's body never was discovered, that I can recall.In the camp there were George Naylor, Gilbert Webb, Jesse West, JohnPitts, Robert Watson, Jr., George Boyd and many others from Salt LakeCity, as well as men who had come from various parts of the country.The man who had tried to jump the claim I had found assumed charge andgot the camp together, intending to make a stand in the brush. I knewthe danger of such a proceeding with seventy-five or eighty hostileIndian warriors near, so, with my companions, withdrew to a betterposition; soon all the camp followed, and we prepared for defense. Theintended claim-jumper, whose name I am unable to recall, was a partnerof Corinth Lawrence, and requested me to take charge of the funeral ofthe dead man, which I did, and he was buried as carefully as we coulddo it. That day I suffered greatly with my lame limb, and an abscessburst and discharged freely.

CHASED BY A WAR PARTY

Next morning we broke camp and returned home, for it was not safe toremain there, in a hostile Indian country. Later in the season, BrowerPettit and Foster Curtis returned to our claim, but it had been seized,and was held by parties from California. There was a great rush inof people, and the town of South Pass, or Atlantic City, was built.The next spring I went out with more men, but our claim could not beregained, so we had to give it up. The parties who seized it took manythousands of dollars out of it. The second year, however, the miningboom collapsed.

During the summer and autumn of this year, 1868, grading for theUnion Pacific Railway was going on. I hauled coal from Coalville toSalt Lake City, and also hauled tithing produce from Ogden and Logan,taking produce for pay, so that my family was well supplied withprovisions. On my last trip from Ogden I was caught in a snowstorm onthe sandridge, took a congestive chill, and almost died on the way.When I reached home I was unable to get off my wagon. I was cared forby my family, but suffered greatly, and in addition to the suppurationin my thigh, the wound bled so as to endanger my life. Finally, on May27, 1869, my left limb was amputated about four inches from the hipjoint. The surgeons were Dr. W. F. Anderson, Dr. H. J. Richards and Dr.J. M. Bernhisel. Apostles Wilford Woodruff and George Q. Cannon werepresent also. The operation which I had objected to for nearly fiveyears became necessary to save my life.

In a few weeks from the time of the amputation I was able to get outa little, and pruned a few trees. From that time on I worked, thoughit was under many difficulties, till I had pruned my nursery of tenthousand trees, and had given them necessary care. I was able to bepresent at the ceremonies at the entrance of the railway into Salt LakeCity, January 10, 1870. During the succeeding two years I attended tomy nursery, also traveled and lectured on my experiences and preachedas a home missionary, from Paris, Idaho, on the north, to St. George,Utah, on the south. In the summer of 1871, while working in my orchard,I was overcome by heat, having a slight sunstroke, some of the effectsof which have never left me. Still my health was better than before mylimb was amputated, and with crutches I got along fairly well.

CHAPTER LX.

I CALLED ON A MISSION TO THE UNITED STATES—JOURNEY EASTWARD—VISITRELATIVES EN ROUTE—REACH NEW YORK—MEASURED FOR AN ARTIFICIALLIMB—HOW IT WAS PAID FOR—VISIT AND PREACH—MEET POORENCOURAGEMENT—GO TO BOSTON—WORLD'S PEACE JUBILEE—BUNKER HILL—AGAINAT NEW YORK—RELEASED TO RETURN HOME—BACK IN UTAH—TRAVELING ANDPREACHING—SENT FOR BY PRESIDENT YOUNG—CALLED ON A MISSION TOARIZONA—DIRECTED TO FURNISH NAMES OF OTHERS—SEND THE LIST—PRESIDENTYOUNG ADDS OTHER NAMES—SET APART FOR OUR MISSION—DIFFICULT TO COLLECTMONEY DUE ME—LEAVE MY FAMILY POORLY PROVIDED FOR BUT TRUSTING IN THELORD—PLACED IN CHARGE OF THE MISSION—LETTER OF INSTRUCTIONS—STARTSOUTH—PEOPLE CONTRIBUTE LIBERALLY—TRAVELING IN STORM—ARRIVE ATKANAB—IN ARIZONA—A HARD JOURNEY—MARRIAGE OF MY DAUGHTER—REACH LEE'SFERRY ON THE COLORADO—CROSSING THE RIVER—REACH MOANCOPPY WASH—DECIDETO WINTER THERE—EXPLORE THE VICINITY—MEET FRIENDLY INDIANS—BUILDINGA HOUSE—EXPLORING THE LITTLE COLORADO—A DIFFICULT TRIP—DESCRIPTIONOF THE ROUTE—FIND A PLACE FOR ANOTHER SETTLEMENT—SAN FRANCISCOMOUNTAINS—FINE FOREST GROWTH—CAUGHT IN DEEP SNOW—THROUGH WITH APERILOUS JOURNEY—DECIDE TO RETURN TO SALT LAKE CITY AND REPORT—HEAVYSNOW—TRIP HOMEWARD—CORDIALLY GREETED BY PRESIDENT YOUNG—WITH MYFAMILY.

ON the 8th of April, 1872, at the general conference of the Church inSalt Lake City, I was called on a mission to the eastern part of theUnited States, and hastened to settle my business preparatory to mydeparture. At 5 p.m. on May 1st I left Salt Lake City, going by trainto Ogden, and then east. There were about twenty-five other Eldersin the company. My companion in the Pullman car was Moroni Brown, ofOgden. On reaching Missouri Valley Junction, Iowa, I stopped over withmy brother-in-law, B. H. Dennis. On May 4th, I went to Calhoun andpreached in the schoolhouse; returned to Missouri Valley Junction onthe 6th, preaching in the courthouse. My father paid the expense ofsecuring the last-named building.

I continued my journey on the 7th going by way of Chicago,Philadelphia, Newark and Jersey City, to New York. There we met withElder Wm. C. Staines, and on the 12th went with him to Brooklyn. On the13th I was measured at Mr. Hudson's, 696 Broadway, New York, for anartificial limb. The way I came to do this was through Leonard Wines,of Salt Lake City. Mr. Wines and I had been good friends in our youngerdays. In later years he had made some money on the mail line west,and meeting me one day on the train the idea struck him that I oughtto have an artificial leg. The result was that he and some friendswhom he called on raised the necessary amount to pay for it, which sumhe presented to me, telling of his purpose. Naturally I had a highappreciation of his kindness. It was on May 27th that I received theartificial limb.

We obtained lodgings with Brother Isaac Elkington and family, andvisited and preached where we could. We met very little encouragementfrom the people. On June 13th we left for Boston on a steamer of theNeptune Line, going first to Providence, from which place we went byrail to Boston, and thence to Portsmouth, N. H. At the latter place Ivisited my father-in-law, Thomas Lester.

On the 17th of June we were at the World's Peace Jubilee, in Boston,and also visited Bunker Hill and mingled with the vast assemblagethere. I paid a visit to the home of Thomas Lester, Jr., about fifteenmiles out from Boston, on the 18th, and then returned to New York,where, on the 19th, we met President George A. Smith of the FirstPresidency of the Church. He told us we were at liberty to return home,as the antagonism was so great that there was no chance to preachthe Gospel to the people at that time. That evening we filled anappointment at Paterson. N. J., staying at the home of W. Dover tillthe 23rd, when we returned to New York.

Having been released from our mission, owing to the indifference of thepeople, we started home the first of July. For some three years aftermy return I traveled and preached as I had done formerly, in southernIdaho, western Wyoming and northern Utah.

On Wednesday evening, September 29, 1875, on returning from a preachingtour in the northern part of Utah County, I was informed by my familythat President Young had sent for me to do some interpreting in theNavajo language. I had met the Navajo Indians going away from hisoffice, and as I knew my presence was not necessary then, and as I wasquite ill with a nervous headache, I did not go up till next day.

Going to see President Young, I met him in front of his office, inhis carriage. He said he had wanted me to talk with the Navajos, butI was too late, for they were gone, "but," said he, "I knew you hadthe spirit of it." He then drove off, and his private secretary, ElderGeorge Reynolds, invited me into the office, saying the Presidentwanted to see me particularly on missionary business. At this I wentinside and waited. Soon the President came in and after speaking tosome others who were waiting for him, came to me and said, "Oh, BrotherJames, that I could see you as I have seen you, strong and active! Ishould like to send you on a mission to those Indians, for you are justthe man to go there with a few other good men. The Spirit of the Lordis upon them and they need a few men among them who will teach them thetruth."

To this statement I replied that I was unable to endure hardships andexposure as I had done, for my health was very poor and I was not ableto wait on myself in camp life. I stated, however, that what the Spiritof the Lord directed through him I was willing to try to do to the bestof my ability; and added, "You know where to find me; I am just where Ialways have been, on hand."

President Young then said. "Bless your soul, the Spirit does and hasdictated to me all the time to send you to take charge of a missionin that country. You are just the man for it, and if I had sent youbefore, we would have had a mission and settlements there now. I thinkthat if we fit you up with a good spring wagon or carriage, and somegood brethren to wait on you, that you can go. Just get a list of namesof good men, and hand them to me—a list of men that will stand byyou, but none of your babies. I want good men to go with you on thismission, so hand me a list of names."

When the conversation ended, I returned home, and after much thoughtand prayer for the guidance of the Lord, wrote the following names, myown at the head of the list: Daniel B. Roson, John C. Thompson, Seth B.Tanner, Morton P. Mortenson, Bengt Jenson, Hans Funk, Ernest Tietjensand John Davies. The latter got excused, and President Young added thefollowing: Andrew L. Gibbons, Luther C. Burnham, Thales H. Haskell, IraHatch, Warren M. Johnson and William H. Gibbons. These were called on amission October 9, 1875, at the general conference. On Monday, October11th, we were set apart for our mission.

I found some difficulty in collecting debts due me, over a thousanddollars altogether, so that I could not get enough to fit me outcomfortably nor to provide for my family. Still I was determined to go.When it came to parting from my family, it was hard to leave them, withonly ten days' supply of fuel and less than fifty pounds of flour inthe house, and not knowing where the next would come from. It seemed asif they could not endure the separation when they saw me fitted out sopoorly. But I blessed them in the name of the Lord, and told them thatif they would live their religion they would not suffer so much wantwhen I was away as if I had stayed home. Then we separated sorrowfully,and on October 30th I went by train to Provo. Some of the company hadpreceded me a day or two. I had in the meantime received much personalinstruction from President Young, and was given the following letter:

"SALT LAKE CITY, U.T., October 28, 1875.

"Elder James S. Brown. Salt Lake City:

"DEAR BROTHER:—You are hereby appointed to take charge of the missionabout to go south and southeast of the Colorado River.

"It will become your duty to found settlements in suitable locations,where the brethren can congregate in cultivating the earth to bringforth substance for the families of the brethren who may feel disposedto join you.

"You will work in harmony with other brethren who are now in the southbuilding up new locations, and will in all things seek the welfare ofthose associated with you, and the building up of the kingdom of God.

"In the formation of settlements, and in all circumstances that mayarise on your mission, you will seek the wisdom of the Spirit of theLord, and be guided by its whisperings in all things from day to day.

"The brethren with whom you are associated are counseled to act underyour directions, that the spirit of union and concert of action maycharacterize all your movements. And we call upon all men unto whomyou shall come to aid and assist you according to their ability inpromoting so good and glorious a cause as settling this rugged new,country.

"We would counsel you, if you will do it, to sustain each other asbrethren, and work together in the holy order that God has revealed.

"We pray God our Heavenly Father to bless and prosper you and to makeyou instrumental in accomplishing much good to those with whom you arecalled upon to associate, and to labor for on this mission, in the nameof Jesus Christ. Amen.

"Your brethren in the Gospel,

"BRIGHAM YOUNG,
"DANIEL H. WELLS,

"First Presidency of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints."

From Provo I got a ride with a team to Spanish Fork, where, on Sunday,October 31st, I preached to the people, having great liberty of theSpirit. Then Bishop Snell asked the people for a contribution and theyresponded liberally, raising twenty-two sacks of flour, twenty-sixbushels of potatoes, and thirteen dollars in money. That night I wenton to Salem and preached, and also received a small donation from thepeople. I next went to Payson, where I preached on Monday evening, andwhere the people subscribed liberally, so that I had thirty-three dollarsin currency, fifty sacks of flour, and twenty-six bushels of potatoes.Thus my words to my destitute family were fulfilled, and they wereprovided for as well as myself.

At Payson I met some of my missionary companions, and we moved onsouthward. Others joined us on the journey, and on November 9th wereached Salina, where we pitched our tent and I camped out for thefirst time on our trip. At Richfield we received contributions ofprovisions, and again at Panguitch. Much of our journey between thesetwo places was in storm—rain and snow—and was far from comfortable.On the 18th we crossed the rim of the Great Basin. We reached Kanab onthe 20th, where we were joined by the four brethren who had been calledfrom the southern settlements.

I left Kanab on November 22nd, going to Navajo Wells. Before leavingKanab I had telegraphed to President Young, written to my family, andarranged with Bishop L. John Nuttall to have our mail sent after us assoon as possible. At Navajo Wells I joined our party, and next day wewent on to the Buckskin Mountains, making dry camp that night. On the24th we reached House Rock Spring, where we were overtaken with lettersfrom home. I had one from my eldest daughter. Lydia Jane, stating thatshe was to be married to Homer Manley Brown on November 22nd. It hadbeen arranged before I left home that the wedding was to take placethis month.

We traveled steadily on, the country being dry and forbidding. Ourbeef cattle having run off, Ira Hatch and Luther C. Burnham went tofind them. Burnham brought them into camp at Badger Creek, on the26th, but it was 2 o'clock on the morning of the 27th when Ira Hatchgot in from his fruitless search. That day we went on to Lee's Ferry,on the Colorado River. We had sent two men ahead to arrange for us tobe ferried over the river, but they reported that it was not possibleto cross that night. I thought differently, and as it was Saturday,I determined to get over. Some of the party objected and some werewilling, and this division delayed our crossing with the wagons tillabout 10 p.m.; but we were safely over the stream. Next day our animalswere ferried over. At the ferry, Mrs. Lee was out of provisions, andwe helped her to some, and also gave her ten dollars, of which Icontributed two dollars. Next morning she sent me a Navajo blanket anda cotton handkerchief.

We left Lee's Crossing on November 29th, and continued over a dry,rough, difficult road till December 3rd, when we reached Moancoppy,the pleasantest spot we had seen since before arriving at Kanab. I wasimpressed to make this place winter quarters, and designated a sitefor a fort. We were all pleased to have a rest from traveling, as ourfeed had given out and our stock was sick with the epizootic. Near thisplace there were some old Indian farms and a few stone huts laid upwithout mortar, but all had been deserted. There were also some springsnear by.

The morning after we had camped there, a small hunting party of Navajoscame in, and after we had given them their breakfast they smokedtheir corn-husk cigarettes and departed. A. S. Gibbons, Ira Hatch andI examined the country around Moancoppy, and found a few ponds ofwater and a good place for a reservoir to catch the spring rains; wealso discovered a fertile spot of a few acres, and two small springs.December 5th was Sunday. We held a meeting, and all our company,thirteen in number, expressed themselves as feeling well and zealous inour missions.

On Monday we explored the vicinity, but found nothing inviting outsidethe neighborhood of our camp, where we all were satisfied a missionarystation should be built, as it was the best we could do. We went towork getting timber and doing other necessary work, my part beingto guard against hostile Indians. T. H. Haskell and Ira Hatch, ourinterpreters, went to the Oriba Indian village, some fifty miles away.On their return they reported all was peaceful; they were accompaniedby Chief Tuba and his wife Telassinimki, who were highly pleased to seetheir old Mormon friends.

On the 8th we laid out a house twenty by forty feet and twelve feethigh, to be built of stone. Our beef cattle having become very wild, wehad to kill them and cure the meat.

J. C. Thompson, Ira Hatch, S. B. Tanner, L. C. Burnham and I startedon December 9th on an exploring trip up the Little Colorado River andaround the San Francisco Mountains. When we had gone twelve miles,breaking the road through the canyon, we were glad to find some poolsof water, and to rest for the night. Next day we came to the LittleColorado River from forty to fifty miles above its mouth. The riverbottom was about half a mile wide, and the water very low. We continuedup the river to the Black Falls, where the stream passes over a ledgeof volcanic rock twelve or fourteen feet high. Four miles farther upit ran through a very narrow gorge, and we had to pass over the hillsthrough deep sand, which our team found it very difficult to cross.

Fifteen miles farther on we came to Grand Falls, where the river runsover shelving rocks for eighty to a hundred feet. Higher up the streamthe bottoms widened out, in some places to four miles, the timber wasbetter and the stream was larger. We killed two antelope and dried themeat. Our forward journey continued to the old Beel trail, then on toSunset Crossing and the old Prescott road. Seven miles above was a mailstation, and there, at 9 o'clock on the night of Friday, December 17th,the mail carriers met, and we learned some general news from them. Nextday we traveled fifteen miles farther, to where some Mexican herderswere camped with about four thousand sheep. The water in the river hadimproved in quantity and quality, and the surroundings were such thatwe felt we could recommend it as a place for settlement. We were alsoimpressed to return to Moancoppy, and started on that journey on the19th. We changed our course and took more to the hill country, headingfor the San Francisco Mountains.

The return trip was very hard. We saw plenty of timber—the finestforest growth I ever beheld. On December 24th, when crossing the dividebetween the San Francisco Mountains and Mount Hendrick, we encountereda terrific snowstorm, and had to camp for the night. Next day wecontinued on our way, making slow progress in the deep snow. We passedbelow the snow line on a very rough country, where sometimes, withbrake set, it took the four of us all we could do to keep the wagonright side up. We were thankful to reach the river on the 28th andMoancoppy on the 29th.

At a brief consultation that day, it was decided that I should returnto Salt Lake City and report to President Young the result of ourexplorations. Next day the bandaging of my artificial leg gave way andT. H. Haskell repaired it. On New Year's Day, 1876, J. C. Thompson, W.H. Gibbons and I set out for Kanab, where we arrived on January 6th.

I requested Bishop Nuttall to forward me to Orderville, which he did.From there Bishop H. O. Spencer took his team and conveyed me toPanguitch. We met a heavy snowstorm on the road, the snow on the rim ofthe Basin being up to the wagonbox. From Panguitch I was forwarded toMonroe, where I telegraphed President Young that I would be in the cityby January 15th. I was advanced by team from there to the railroad,where a pass sent by President Young was ready for me, and I arrivedin Salt Lake City and reported to him at 6 p.m. on the 14th. At therailway station I was met by my children and the neighbors and twovehicles. If I had been President Young's own son he could not havereceived me more cordially than he did when I reached his office. Afterour conversation I returned home, where my folks thought I should havegone first; but they were overjoyed to see me, as I was to see them,all in good health and well provided for. We were highly gratified torealize that the Lord had heard and answered our prayers.

CHAPTER LXI.

ATTEND MEETINGS WITH THE FIRST PRESIDENCY AND APOSTLES—MOREMISSIONARIES CALLED TO ARIZONA—MANY INQUIRIES REGARDING THEMISSION—OUTLINE THE ROUTE—PREPARATIONS FOR TRAVEL—STARTSOUTH—AIDED BY CONTRIBUTIONS—REACH MOENCOPPY—MEET LOT SMITHAND COMPANY—BAPTISMS—START FOR THE LITTLE COLORADO RIVER—GUIDEMISSIONARY COMPANIES TO THE PLACE WE HAD SELECTED FOR SETTLEMENT—LOTSMITH REFUSES TO ACKNOWLEDGE MY APPOINTMENT FROM PRESIDENT YOUNGAS PRESIDENT OF THE MISSION—HE ASSUMES LEADERSHIP AT THE NEWSETTLEMENT—I RETURN WITH MY PARTY TO MOENCOPPY—OTHER COMPANIES OFMISSIONARY SETTLERS SUSTAIN MY PRESIDENCY—MY HEALTH IS POOR—SETTLERSDISCOURAGED—CHEER THEM UP—WORK OF FRONTIER LIFE—SUCCOR A COMPANYWHOSE WATER SUPPLY IS EXHAUSTED—TAKING UP LAND—MAKE A LONGEXPLORING TRIP—INTRODUCE BOOK OF MORMON TO NAVAJOS—RETURN TOMOENCOPPY—INDIANS DISSATISFIED—GO TO SALT LAKE CITY WITH A DELEGATIONOF NAVAJO CHIEFS—THEIR SUPPOSED GRIEVANCES SETTLED—TELL PRESIDENTYOUNG I HAVE COME HOME TO STAY—HE SENDS ME OUT AGAIN—DIRECTED TOPROCURE VOLUNTEERS—LETTER OF INSTRUCTIONS—LECTURE, AND TAKE UPCONTRIBUTIONS—RETURN HOME—MY FAMILY ILL—PROVIDE SUPPLIES FORTHEM—CONDITIONS IMPROVE.

MY stay at home lasted till January 30, 1876. I attended severalmeetings with the First Presidency, the Twelve Apostles, and otherleading brethren in the Church. They were consulting as to the bestmeans of colonizing that part of Arizona we had been exploring, and twohundred missionaries were called to go there and settle the country.Scores of visitors also came to my house to inquire regarding mytravels and the place where I had been. I went over to Apostle JohnTaylor's house on invitation, and there George Goddard reported ourconversation, as I was requested to outline the route to Arizona, whichoutline was afterwards published in the Deseret News. During my stay Ialso made a brief visit to Ogden.

As the time drew near for me to start south again, President Youngloaned me a team and light wagon to travel with. He also advised me tofind a boy about sixteen years old to go with and wait on me. I wasthinking of how I should follow this counsel, when John Reidhead, whowas one of those called to the Arizona mission, came in and profferedhis son—an offer I was pleased to accept. On Friday, January 28,Brother Reidhead and son started south with my team and baggage.

Early on the morning of Sunday, January 30, I took leave of my family,and went by train to Spanish Fork, making an appointment at Springvilleas I passed. I was met at the station at Spanish Fork, and conveyed tothe meetinghouse, where I addressed the congregation. That evening Ireturned to Springville and filled the appointment there. Next morningI was met by Brother Reidhead and son, and proceeded to Payson. Ihad had raised for me, by subscription, a span of small mules, so Isent back President Young's team and harness, and went on my journey,preaching almost every evening in one or other town on the way. We weretreated very kindly. Our route lay through Fillmore, Beaver, Parowan,Cedar City, Toquerville, and on to Kanab, which we reached February23, finding Bishop Nuttall quite ill. We made our home at Bishop LeviStewart's.

On March 2nd we set out from Kanab, and reached Moencoppy on the 8th,where we found all well. The building constructed by the settlers wasso far completed as to protect us comfortably from storm and cold; anda dam had been constructed, with a water ditch three miles long, givingus quite a reservoir. Plowing also had been begun, though the weatherwas very disagreeable.

On the 11th, J. C. Thompson and A. S. Gibbons went to meet Lot Smithand a company coming from Utah. On Sunday, the 12th, we held meeting,and a young man named Franklin D. Gillespie, who had fallen in with us,desired to be baptized into the Church, as did Ly and his wife, two ofthe Oriba Indians. The ordinance was attended to, and I also ordainedthe chief, Tuba, a Priest.

During the next three days I arranged affairs of the company, someof the men being directed to locate springs, to act as guides to thecompanies coming, attend to our mail, etc., and on the 15th, with S.B. Tanner, Ira Hatch, and J. B. Reidhead, set out with six mules anda light wagon to search a road for vehicles between Moencoppy and theOriba village. Hans Funk and E. Tietjens, with a four-horse team, wentto the top of the hill to haul water for our animals, and from thereour party proceeded along the Indian trail three or four miles, thenstruck out over the trackless, sandy plain, to avoid rugged buttes anddeep gulches that rendered the trail impracticable for wagons. We wenton about fourteen miles, and camped in the sand; I was quite ill.

Next day we traveled about twenty-five miles in a southeasterlydirection, over sandhills and up a long wash, to a divide, where wemade dry camp. We met four hunting parties, and two of the hunterscamped with us. The following morning we went on seven miles, to thepools of water where the Oribas were camped with their flocks of sheepand goats. Each flockmaster stood guard over his animals, for his turnto get at the pools. We passed on three miles to the Oriba village,located on the crest of a steep bluff. The houses were built closetogether, and there were about five hundred inhabitants. Those Indiansobtained all their water from a well about a mile distant, and thecarrying of the precious liquid was going on day and night, while theIndians were praying continually for more water.

Leaving the Oriba village, we proceeded onward over a rough and sandycountry, reaching the Mohave Springs, where the Hopees water theirstock, on the 18th. That night we experienced a fearful windstorm. Onthe 20th we came to the Little Colorado River, and on the 23rd arrivedat the place selected on my first trip for a settlement. Between thistime and my previous visit five houses had been built there, so ourpurpose was interfered with a little. Next day we chose a place for thepioneer camp, and S. B. Tanner and I started back to meet the companyfrom Utah which was to occupy the locality as a settlement, and whichhad been following us closely. We met the newcomers that day, andreturned to the site that had been chosen.

It was at this place that the first disagreement in the expeditionoccurred. Captains Smith, Lake and Allen had charge of three sectionsof the company. I invited them and others to a meeting to consultover what should be done, and there presented to them my letter ofinstructions from President Young and my appointment as president ofthe mission. Captain Lot Smith opposed my presidency, and Captains Lakeand Allen failed to give me support. Things were not pleasant, andthe meeting was dismissed. Next day matters in camp were in a ratherconfused condition.

The succeeding day was Sunday, March 26th. Lot Smith called a meeting,and invited me to speak. I recounted what we had done in searching outand selecting this place for settlement, and welcomed the company toit; I also gave information and instruction concerning the country.When I finished, Lot Smith assumed charge of the meeting, and paid nofurther attention to me. Next day I invited him, and also Major Ladd,to take a walk with me. They came, and I asked Brother Smith what heintended doing. He replied that he was going ahead independent of me.I told him he had insulted me and trampled upon my God-given right,through President Young, who had appointed me to preside over theArizona mission, and if he would persist in doing wrong he must bearthe responsibility. He was very defiant, so we separated. I calledBrother G. Lake, who had informed me that Lot Smith seemed to think hewas in charge of the companies but he (Lake) knew it was my place andwould sustain me. I told him he had betrayed my confidence, for when itcame to the test he had failed to keep his word. I advised him to thinkthe matter over, and as I had decided to return at once to Moencoppy,our party bade good-bye to the newcomers, and we started. This was onMarch 27th.

On the 30th we reached the lower crossing of the river, and camped, thestream being too much swollen to cross. S. B. Tanner shot a deer, andby about five hours later he and the others brought in two more deer—avaluable addition to our stock of provisions. By Saturday, April 1st,the river had fallen, and other companies having come up, we crossedand held a meeting. Next day another meeting was convened, and I calledDavid E. Fullmer to return with us, which he did. In a meeting held atthe old Arizona camp on April 4th, at which there was a large number ofthose who had recently come from Utah, my letter of instructions fromPresident Young was read, and the brethren unanimously sustained me aspresident of the mission. Our party continued the journey, and aftermuch toil reached Moencoppy settlement on April 7th. I was quite ill atthis time.

We continued the work necessary to establishing a settlement, butthere were so many difficulties that some of our company, which hadbeen increased by additions from Utah, began to feel discouraged. Iadmonished and cheered them, causing them to feel better. We alsoarranged for some of the company, in charge of S. B. Tanner, to goup the Little Colorado River and secure twenty-three land claims forus. This party started on Monday, April 17th. On the 22nd a BrotherPhillips came from Moencoppy and said a small company had reached therewithout water, and that their teams were so exhausted that they couldnot travel longer than about noon. We comprehended their sufferingcondition, gathered all the barrels and kegs we had, and filled themwith water—about one hundred gallons—and Brothers Roson and Thompsonwent to their relief. I then made out some notices to put up, givinginstructions so that other companies should not be caught in the samepredicament as this one had been.

From time to time our numbers were augmented by additions from Utah,many having come in and located at the places we had selected. Amongthose who joined us at Moencoppy was my son-in-law, H. O. Fullmer, andmy daughter, Rachel E. On the 17th of May the members of our settlementproceeded up the river to where S. B. Tanner and party had taken upland for us. There was some dissatisfaction in the company, but afterprayerfully considering the situation all was made right. Then, on May19th, Brothers Tanner, Haskell and I started on an exploring trip. Wewere gone till July 3rd, and traveled several hundred miles, goingnorth and east through the country of the Navajos, the Moquis and theZunis. We saw the villages of each, and also many ancient ruins. Wepassed over some good country, but much of it was very rough, and ourtrip was an arduous one.

While on this journey we were traveling along the Rio Perco, atributary of the Rio Grande del Norte, when, on June 17th, as we werefollowing a trail through a forest, an Indian stepped out from the edgeof the undergrowth, held up his hand, and said: "Stop! Who are you,where do you come from, where are you going, and what is your businessin the Navajo country?"

"We are Mormons from Utah," was our response, in Spanish, the languagein which our interrogator had spoken.

"Stop your wagon under this tree," continued he, indicating a place,"and talk to us; for we hear the Mormons have the history of ourforefathers. The Americans and Spaniards say you claim this, but weknow they often speak falsely, and we wish to learn from your own lipswhether you have such a record, and how you came by it. We want you tostop here till our people come together, and you can tell us the truth."

By this time another Indian had presented himself. We turned aside asordered, and the first Navajo said to the newcomer: "Show these menwhere water is."

Seth B. Tanner and Thales H. Haskell unhitched our team, and ledthem to drink, the Indian going as guide. I was asked to get out ofthe wagon, and as I was doing so a large number of Indians appeared,coming from all directions. Almost before I realized it, there weretwo hundred and fifty to three hundred Navajos there, men, women andchildren. My chair was taken out of the wagon, a blanket was spread forme, and I sat down, the Indians sitting close around. Two chiefs, whomI learned were Juan San Juall and Jualito, sat as near to me as theycould, and one of them said, "If you have the book of our forefathers,tell us about God and them, and how you came by the book."

I produced a copy of the Book of Mormon, told them it was a record ofGod's dealings with their fore-fathers, and explained to them how itwas revealed to the Prophet Joseph Smith by an angel. As I proceeded totell what was in the Book of Mormon, tears came to the eyes of many inthe audience, and some of them spoke out, "We know that what you say istrue, for the traditions of our good old men who never told a lie agreewith your story. Our forefathers did talk with God, and they wrote; andwhen they became wicked and went to war they hid up their records, andwe know not where they are."

At this point the chiefs and about ten other leading men rose up andembraced me, saying, "Continue to tell us of God and our forefathers,for it does our hearts good to hear of them."

I talked on for a time, and when I was through, Messrs. Tanner andHaskell, who had listened to what had been going on, bore witness thatwhat I had said was true. We remained with the Indians for dinner,and they wanted us to stay longer, but we felt that it was betterto proceed on our journey. This meeting, one of the most sudden andsingular in my experience, occurred in New Mexico, about thirty milesnorth of the old mail route from Albuquerque westward. When it was overwe continued our journey south and west, turned west to Fort Wingate,then on to Fort Defiance, and through the Moquis villages to oursettlement.

On the day of our return to Moencoppy, July 3rd, Brothers Roson andThompson came to meet us with barrels of water—a relief that weappreciated greatly. We were highly pleased to learn that all was wellin the settlement.

Soon after this I released two of the missionaries till October 1st,to visit their families in Utah, and five others till November 1st,for the same purpose. During July and the early part of August wewere engaged in tending and gathering crops, and the work incidentto establishing a settlement, which was by no means easy. We alsovisited and endeavored to keep on good terms with the Indians, and forourselves did so; but there were some of the Navajos who seemed benton making trouble, and who complained that the settlers on the LittleColorado had taken some of their animals. Finally, on August 6th, wereceived word from the Indian council that a delegation of chiefswould meet with us in three days, to accompany some of us on a visitto the "Mormon Chief," to settle the alleged grievances. Ira Hatch andI set out that same evening to meet the delegation. I took very ill,and it was only through the best care and with great effort that Icould travel, but we were determined not to disappoint the Indians. Ireceived marked attention from Ira Hatch, also from J. D. Lee and wifeat the Moenabbey, and in a few hours was able to move around again asusual. We met the Indians, and made the journey north, reaching SaltLake City on the evening of August 22nd, the Indians being lodged at D.B. Huntington's for the night.

Next day President Young met the delegation in his schoolhouse,and talked over the supposed wrongs of the Mormon settlers to theNavajos—for they were only supposed, as it turned out. I acted asinterpreter, using the Spanish language. Efforts had been made to findsome other interpreter who could talk the Navajo dialect, but in vain.Everything was made satisfactory to the red men, who remained in SaltLake City four days. At this time a delegation of Shoshones from BearRiver came with George Hill as interpreter, and these met the Navajosand the two tribes "buried the hatchet." Then the Navajos received afew presents and returned to their homes.

I had a conversation with President Young, in which I told him I hadcome from Arizona not to return unless he ordered me to do so. A fewdays later he met me and said he had been thinking over my mission. Heintended to press onward in settling Arizona and New Mexico, and asI knew what that country was, he thought I had better travel throughUtah and lecture on the prospects of the work in the southern mission,and also call for volunteers to accompany me in returning to Arizona.He told me further that I was to take up collections among the Saintsfor the support of myself and family, and for an outfit for myself.In pursuance of these instructions he gave me a letter to the Bishopsand other authorities. This document mentioned my missionary labors inArizona, said I was directed to lecture among the Saints on the missionwork and take up contributions, and counseled the authorities to renderme assistance in harmony with the call made of me. It closed as follows:

"Brother Brown is also authorized to receive the names of those whoare willing or desirous of helping to build up the Kingdom of Godin that region. We learn that the brethren are discovering new anddesirable valleys in the neighborhood of their present settlements, andelsewhere, and it is our intention to keep pushing out and onward asfast as prudence and the whisperings of the Spirit of the Lord shalldictate.

"We desire the active co-operation of our brethren in this importantwork, and shall be pleased to receive a goodly list of volunteersthrough Brother Brown, consisting of men who love the Gospel,have faith in the promises of the Father, and have the integrity,determination and zeal of true Latter-day Saints. We have no fear thattoo many will respond to this invitation, as the rich valleys south andeast of the Colorado offer homes for hundreds of those who desire toextend the curtains of Zion in that direction.

"We are informed that some of the brethren entertain the idea that itis better to be called by the authorities to such missions than tovolunteer. To such we will quote the saying of the Lord to the ProphetJoseph Smith, as contained in the Doctrine and Covenants: 'He thatwaiteth to be commanded in all things is a slothful servant.'

"Ever praying for the welfare of Israel, I remain your brother in theGospel,

"BRIGHAM YOUNG."

This letter was dated September 16, 1876.

Soon afterward I went as directed, traveling and lecturing in northernUtah, with a visit to Almy, Wyoming; then worked my way southward inthe various counties, to Richfield. I lectured sixty-five times, andsecured about eighty volunteers, mostly from Sevier County. Ira Hatchcame up with me and at Richfield we separated, he taking my team andgoing to Kanab, and I returning home to provide for my family andthen rejoin him at the town last named. I found several of my familyquite ill, and there had been one death—my Aunt Polly, who died onChristmas day, a few days before my arrival home.

The opening of the year 1877 found me with my family, who soon began toamend in health. I was also able to supply them fairly well with whatthey needed for sustenance during my absence, as the Bishops and Saintswhom I had visited had been very kind and liberal, in response to theinvitation of President Young to promote the interests of the southernmission by rendering assistance to me so I could proceed to that fieldof labor.

CHAPTER LXII.

AGAIN IN ARIZONA—SETTLING DIFFICULTIES AMONG THE PEOPLE—OURRESERVOIR BURSTS—NEWS OF NOTABLE EVENTS—PREPARE TO REPEL ANINDIAN RAID—INDIANS QUARREL, AND THE TROUBLE PASSES OVER—FUNERALAT MOENCOPPY—EXPLORING TRIP TO THE SOUTHEAST—A WHITE INDIANCHILD—MEET THE HEAD CHIEF OF THE NAVAJOS—HIS ADDRESS, ANDPROPOSITION TO ACCOMPANY ME TO SALT LAKE CITY—AGREE ON A DATE FORTHE JOURNEY—CONTINUE MY TRIP OYER INTO NEW MEXICO, THEN RETURN TOMOENCOPPY—ACCUSATION AGAINST ME DISPROVED—INDIANS GATHER TO GO TOSALT LAKE CITY—MAKE THE TRIP—AT PRESIDENT YOUNG'S DEATHBED—VISIT OFTHE INDIANS—HONORABLE RELEASE FROM MY MISSION—RESUME HOME MISSIONARYLABORS—IN PRISON FOR CONSCIENCE SAKE.

MY stay at home was brief, and the 26th of January, 1877, found meagain at Kanab, ready to proceed southward. Three days later the startwas made, and on the morning of February 5th we reached Moencoppy.The people there were in poor spirits, and considerably dissatisfied.During my absence they had sowed about fourteen acres of fall grain andhad built eight log rooms. On my arrival, A. S. Gibbons made complaintagainst S. B. Tanner, for they had had a disagreement. Tanner was foundto be in error, and made the matter right.

This trouble settled, the work of plowing and planting and setting outtrees, was proceeded with. Friendly Navajo and Oriba Indians visitedus, and as the United Order was being preached to the Church at thattime, I gave my views on the subject in an address at the Thursdayevening meeting, March 8th. Again on Sunday, the 11th, I preached tothe Saints, telling them plainly the wrong that was in their neglectof duty and disaffection. My remarks had quite a salutary effect, andmatters moved more smoothly.

Shortly after midnight on the morning of March 23rd, the message wasbrought that our reservoir had given way. We hurried out, but had towait till daylight before we could do effective work in repairing thedam. In the meantime the Indians were greatly excited because the waterwas injuring their crops, and we had to pacify the red men as bestwe could, and make good the damage. Two days after this my daughter,Mrs. Fullmer, became a mother, and I rendered her necessary care andattention.

On March 31st we received mail with the news of the result of thepresidential election, when Hayes and Tilden were the candidates, alsoof Amasa M. Lyman's death, and of John D. Lee being sentenced to beshot. On April 4th we received tidings of Lee's execution.

Our time was well occupied now with the work around the settlement;I also engaged in studying the Navajo language, preparatory to anextended visit among those Indians. All went well till May 8th, whenI learned that the Piute Indians intended to steal our animals. ChiefPatnish was dead, and his people were angry. For the first time in thehistory of the mission, we called out a guard, gathered our animalsand property, and provided against a raid on the part of the savages.We were assisted by some friendly Navajos. At our inspection weascertained that we could fire eighty-five shots without stopping toreload. On the 17th, two Piute Indians came in and informed us that acouncil had been held to discuss the raid on us, but the vote was sixto five against molesting us, and the council broke up in a fight. Thefive Indians who were in favor of attacking us started to seek theassistance of the Ute Indians, while the others came to our side. Aweek later we had a talk with some of the Piutes, and the threatenedtrouble was averted.

A funeral occurred in the settlement on May 27th—that of Minty, thelittle daughter of W. J. Johnston. I preached the funeral sermon. Forsome time previous to and after this occasion my health was quite poor.On June 1st we had another Indian scare, and made ready for attack, butthe alarm was without sufficient cause.

Before this time several of our company had endeavored to learn theNavajo language, but met with little success; so I determined tostudy the Indian language and customs myself, that I might be able totalk freely with the red men. Accordingly, on June 4th, I went up theMoencoppy Wash to Chief Hustelso's camp, about twenty-five miles. Itwas arranged that I should be left there alone, except that Ira Hatch'seight-year old girl was to stay with and wait on me. The Indian campwas located two or three miles from where George A. Smith, Jr. waskilled some years before, probably by the same Indians.

H. O. Fullmer and Ira Hatch went with me, and eight Navajos assistedin letting my wagon down into the Wash, where I was left. The bedof the stream was perhaps three thousand feet below the plain aboveon the north side, while the cliffs on the south towered up almostperpendicularly about five thousand feet. The Indian camp was in thedeep recess, the descent into which was both difficult and dangerous. Awagon could not be drawn down or up by team, but for a thousand feet orso had to be lowered from one cliff to another with ropes. In one placethe Indians had cut eighteen steps, to enable them to get their animalsup and down; and then occasionally a horse would go over and be killed.

In this place the first night gave me a decidedly lonesome feeling.Chief Hustelso was friendly, but not so his people, except a fewold men. The young men were very surly, and would not talk. Some ofthem were shooting arrows, and I tried to be friendly and proposedto shoot with them, but three of the young braves drew their bows onme, as if intending to kill me. I made no headway that night, and Irealized the gloominess that had prevented my companions remainingthere and learning to speak the Navajo tongue. The next day or two Iwas threatened and illtreated, the burrs taken off my wagon, and I wassubjected to other annoyances. The little girl with me did fairly well,for, being a half-breed Indian herself, she affiliated with the Indianchildren without difficulty.

Then the Indians became less offensive in their conduct day by day,and I learned rapidly to converse with them, and began to experiencekindness at their hands. Several strange Indians came from aconsiderable distance to see me, and on June 12th, about three hundredand fifty Navajos gathered around to hear me tell them of the Book ofMormon, its discovery and contents. Book in hand I related to themthe story of the volume being the history of their forefathers. Somelaughed at me and others asked most searching questions, which I wasable to answer satisfactorily in their own dialect.

Then came the inquiry, "If it is our book, how did you get it? Did yousteal it?" I was getting pretty well puzzled, owing to my imperfectacquaintance with the Navajo language. I told them that the book wasobtained in the east, about so many days' journey off. But I could notexplain to them that it was in a stone box in the Hill Cumorah, andthat the writings were on gold plates, for I did not know what terms touse to convey my meaning. One Indian told me the book could not havelasted so long as I said, because paper would decay, he knew that.In order to learn what hill was, I made a small hill of sand, and bycomparison with the mountains and much explanation I learned the wordfor hill.

I had noticed, almost up to the plateau above, some slate rock; andafter great difficulty I managed to climb and get several piecesof slate down, being aided by the little girl. Then I improvised astone box, set it in the sand hill, placed the book therein, and thusascertained how to say stone box, in Navajo, and explained that therecord was deposited therein. I was almost beaten to tell of goldplates, for I did not know the words to use. At last I bethought me ofa brass suspender buckle, and pointed out that what I was referring towas like that, but was not that; and a little piece was worth severalsilver dollars. Then one Indian recognized what I wanted to say, andgave me the word for gold, on the coins of which he had seen smallletters. I was thus able to explain that the record was on platesof gold; but the way I learned to do it was one of the marvelousexperiences of my life, and illustrates the difficulties I had to meetin learning the Navajo language.

When I reached the point of telling how the Book of Mormon plates werepreserved and obtained, my audience was quite in touch with me, andthey rejoiced and wept while I told them further of its contents. Fromthat time no friendship was too great for me, and before my departureI spent a day, by invitation, viewing Indian sports. By June 20, I wasthrough at Hustelso's camp and ready for a journey of exploration whichhad been planned.

On June 21st our exploring party, consisting of six persons, includingmy son-in-law and his wife and child, started on a trip, the generaldirection of travel being a little south of east. Our journey led usthrough some good country, and some that was very rough. We went ashort distance into New Mexico, and obtained considerable knowledgeof the country and its inhabitants, there being many Indian villages,houses and farms on the route we traveled. As we were crossing over abroad mesa, on June 27, after passing the Fort Defiance road, we metwith a strange person among the people. This was a fullblood Indiangirl seven or eight years of age, with white hair, blue eyes, and skinas fair as the fairest white person.

Next day we reached the camp of Pal Chil Clane, a Navajo chief atwhose place a council had been appointed. From there a messenger wasdispatched to Totoso-ne—Huste, the head chief of the Navajo nation. Onthe evening of the following day that chief arrived in the camp.

A consultation was held on June 29th with the chieftain, at which weinformed him of our desire to settle the country, to teach the Indiansthe Gospel, and to aid in improving their general condition; we alsotold of the Book of Mormon, a record of the Indians' forefathers, whichhad been made known. The chief responded that it was a departure fromhis usual rule to come and see the white men. Before this, they alwayshad come to him, or he had sent good men to meet the government agentsand others. This also had been his custom with the Mormons up to thatoccasion. Among other things he said:

"When I heard that you had come, I quit work and came to see you. Myheart is glad at the meeting with you, and that I see your wagon there,and the brush shade that your men have built. Stop here four days, andmany of our best men will come and talk to you, for a great many ofour people want to go and see the Mormons. We shall have a big talkand know what to do. We are glad that you come among us as friends,that you are making a road through our country, and that you have builthouses at Moencoppy. We want to live with you in peace and let youranimals eat grass in peace. But water is scarce in this country, thereis barely enough for our numerous flocks and increasing people, and ourgood old men do not want your people to build any more houses by thesprings; nor do we want you to bring flocks to eat the grass about thesprings. We want to live by you as friends. I sent some good men withyou last year, and they say you talked one talk all the time. The greatMormon father he talked straight all the time. I think that a good roadto travel in. I have had two daughters prisoners among the Apachesfor many years but have never left my home to search for them, for Ilove my home and my people, and I do not love to travel. I have sentgood and true men to search for my children, and have appealed to theAmerican captains in different places, yet my daughters have not beenbrought back. I am an old man now, and it is hard for me to travel longroads, but I wish to see the Mormons and my father their captain. I aminclined to go with you. I want twenty-five or thirty men to go withme, and one or two women, to see your women and learn how they do. I ammuch pleased to see you and your daughter and her baby. I want to seemore of your people. The Americans and your people differ in religion.The Mormons say their captain talks with God (Pagocheda), and Americanssay God does not talk to men. We do not know what to believe. When Godtalks to us, then we shall know. Until then we want to live as friends."

After our talk we separated, he promising to return in three days.He came, and I accompanied him to a Navajo religious feast, where Iwas introduced to thirteen chiefs and over two hundred other NavajoIndians. This was on July 2nd. It was decided that some of them wouldgo to see the Mormons, and be at Moencoppy in thirty-eight days. Thenwe bade the Indians good-by, and proceeded on our journey, going overinto New Mexico, and back to Moencoppy, where we arrived on July 15th.There were quite a number of Navajos, Piutes and Hopees there, and Ihad to talk with them and three Mexicans till quite late.

A week later, on July 22nd, I declined to administer the sacrament,owing to the feeling of dissatisfaction among the people. A. S. Gibbonsand M. P. Mortensen circulated reports against me, that I had usedprovisions contributed to the mission, and I had a full investigationmade; this showed that the accusation was entirely wrong. Othermeetings were held subsequently, and the ill feeling that had arisenwas dispensed with. The mission affairs then proceeded smoothly again.

It was on the morning of August 8th that the Navajo Indian delegationbegan to assemble for the journey north, Totoso-ne-Huste among thenumber, and by the 10th all were ready for the start. The journey was ahard one much of the way, but when we got among the settlements in Utahwe were well treated, and the Indians highly pleased. We reached SaltLake City August 28, 1877.

The next day I visited President Young. He was very ill, and I merelycalled to see him. The great pioneer and prophet who had done somuch for the opening up and settlement of the Great West was on hisdeathbed. The magnificent work of his life was over. In half an hourafter I left his room, the noble spirit passed from his body, and heslept in death, awaiting the resurrection morn.

On the evening of August 29, the Deseret News published the followingregarding the Navajo delegation and myself:

"Indian Delegation.—Last evening Elder James S. Brown arrived from thesouth with a delegation of Navajo Indians, one of whom is a woman, thefirst female Navajo, we believe, that has ever visited this part ofthe country. Garanu Namunche, or Totoso-ne-Huste, the former being hisSpanish and the latter his Indian name, is at the head of the party. Heis, in fact, the head chief of the Navajo nation. He is accompanied bytwo other leading men, Honeco, brother of the former, and Esclepelehen,son of the same. In June last Elder Brown and a party of brethrenvisited the northeastern part of Arizona and the north-western portionof New Mexico, and found a strong spirit of inquiry among the Navajosrelative to the Mormon people, their methods of farming, manufacturing,and in relation to their institutions generally. These inquiries wereincited by the report of the Navajo delegation which visited this citya year ago, and these composing the one now here have come to see,hear and examine for themselves, that they may be witnesses of thesame things. Brother Brown and party held a council with the Indiansat the camp of Pal Chil Clane, about two hundred men of the tribebeing present on the occasion, including Totoso-ne-Huste, the leadingchief already mentioned. It was then that the latter proposed to paythe present visit. Manlete, or Pahada Pahadane, is the war chief ofthe nation, but in the estimation of the tribe is second in rank toTotoso-ne-Huste, although the whites, or "Americans," recognize the warchief as the head. The delegation are stopping at the house of BrotherBrown, and have been visiting the leading places of interest in thecity today. Elder Brown purposes taking them north to Bear River onMonday."

On August 30th, the Indians and I met Daniel H. Wells, who had beencounselor to President Young in the First Presidency. At that interviewPresident Wells told me I had performed a great and good work, andto ask me to return to Arizona was too much to require of me. I wastherefore honorably released from that mission. Subsequently I receiveda formal release from President John Taylor, who succeeded to thepresidency of the Church.

After the funeral of President Young, which was held on September 2nd,I accompanied the Indians as far south as Gunnison, Sanpete County,on their way home. There I bade them goodbye, and returned northward,to resume my missionary labors, traveling and lecturing among thesettlements in Utah, southern Idaho, and western Wyoming. I alsopurchased a tract of eighty acres of land on the Redwood Road, in thewestern part of Salt Lake City, and worked on that in the spring andsummer, traveling and preaching in the autumn and winter as PresidentYoung had directed me to do.

Thus my time was occupied till the spring of 1892 with the exceptionof the months of March, April and May, 1888. With a firm convictionthat plurality of wives was a law of God. I had entered into thatrelationship honorably with a sincere purpose to follow the right. Myfamily were united with me in accepting this union as of the highest,holiest, most sacred character in the sight of the Most High. Icould not feel to cast aside my wives whom I had married under theseconditions, and therefore, on March 12, 1888, I was sentenced to prisonon a charge of unlawful cohabitation, the legal term applied to livingwith more than one wife, the law being specially directed at one of thereligious practices of the Latter-day Saints. The judgment pronouncedagainst me was three months' imprisonment in the penitentiary and topay a fine of one hundred dollars and costs, which amounted in my caseto twenty-seven dollars and fifty cents. I paid the fine and served theterm, less the time allowed for good behavior, and was released May 28,1888, having been in prison two months and sixteen days.

As was the case with other Mormons in my position, our offense was notlooked upon even by non-Mormons acquainted with the circumstances ascontaining the element of crime; but our incarceration was in fact animprisonment for conscience sake, that being the position in which thelaw found us. A term in the penitentiary under those conditions and atthat time, while a severe hardship, especially upon one in my state ofhealth, was by no means a moral disgrace, since those who had to endureit were of the better class of men, whose uprightness, honor, integrityand sincerity were beyond question in the community where their liveswere an open book.

CHAPTER LXIII.

VISITED BY PRESIDENT JOSEPH F. SMITH—CALLED ON ANOTHER MISSION TO THESOCIETY ISLANDS—PREPARE TO RESPOND—A BLESSING BY APOSTLE LORENZOSNOW—APPOINTED TO PRESIDE OYER THE SOCIETY ISLANDS MISSION—ATTEMPTSTO DISCOURAGE ME FROM UNDERTAKING THE JOURNEY—SURPRISE PARTY BY MYCHILDREN—FAREWELL RECEPTION IN THE WARD HALL—START ON MY MISSION,ACCOMPANIED BY MY SON AND OTHERS WHO HAD BEEN CALLED—VOYAGE TOTAHITI—MADMAN ON BOARD THE VESSEL—AT MARQUESAS ISLANDS—STRANGECHARACTERS—TATTOOED WHITE MAN—HIS PECULIAR CAREER—CATCHINGSHARKS—ARRIVE AT PAPEETE—MY RECEPTION THERE—MEET NATIVE JOSEPHITEPREACHERS, WHO SEEM CONFUSED—ELDERS FROM UTAH GREET US—IN POOR HEALTH.

ON March 30, 1892, President Joseph F. Smith called at my residencein Salt Lake City, and handed me a letter written by an Elder who wason the island of Tahiti. At the same time President Smith asked mehow I would like to take another mission to the Society Islands, inthe South Pacific Ocean. I told him I did not wish any man to call meon a mission—that my health was not good, and such a journey as hesuggested was a big undertaking for one in my condition. He repliedthat he would leave the letter for me to read, and would call the nextday to learn what I thought of it. He came according to appointment,and informed me that the First Presidency wanted me to undertake themission. I replied that when properly called I was not afraid to go, asI had faith that God would not require of any man more than he wouldhave the ability to do if he were faithful. The day following thisconversation I visited the First Presidency and learned that they werea unit in requesting me to go to the Society Islands.

From this time I began to settle my affairs to meet the call. On April8th, I was set apart for the mission, Elder Francis M. Lyman beingmouth in the blessing. On the 15th, I went to Ogden on business, andwhile on the train met Apostle Lorenzo Snow, who told me he felt thespirit of prophecy. He said that the mission I was going on shouldbe one of the greatest I had ever performed; that I would prospertherein and be blessed with more power and influence than ever before;that the Lord would be with me to sustain and comfort me, and that myfamily should be provided for. As he spoke I felt a thrill of testimonythrough my whole being. When he concluded he took from his pockettwo five-dollar gold pieces, remarking that he had been a missionaryhimself, and insisted that I should take the money, keep it till I gotin a close place, and then use it, which I did.

On April 22nd I received at President Woodruff's office a letter ofappointment to preside over the Society Islands Mission, which includedthe Society and Tuamotu groups, comprising from eighty to one hundredislands and an area of about fifteen hundred square miles. About thistime I had many visitors, a considerable number of whom expressedsurprise at my being appointed to such a mission at my time of lifeand in my condition; for I was sixty-four years of age and walkedon crutches and one foot, as I had to abandon my artificial limb inArizona, owing to the intense pain it caused me. One man said thathe would not go in my situation for ten thousand dollars. But thesediscouraging remarks did not raise a doubt in my mind of the proprietyof the call.

On the 24th of April I was engaged in writing, when my childrenand grandchildren to the number of sixty-five burst in upon me ina surprise party. We had a happy time and I gave them a father'sblessing. Then we repaired to the Seventeenth Ward meeting house, wheremembers of the ward had assembled, and I preached a farewell sermon andtook an affectionate leave of the people.

I sold some of my real estate to pay the expenses of my journey, andfor my family; also received contributions in money from a number offriends; and on April 26th I started on my mission, accompanied by myson Elando. We stayed over night at Ogden, then continued on to SanFrancisco, arriving there April 28th. On April 30th we boarded thebarkentine City of Papeete, which sailed the next day.

The sea voyage occupied the entire month of May, Tahiti coming intoview on the evening of the 31st. Our fare, cabin, was seventy-fivedollars each. The first few days out we had headwinds, and there wasa goodly share of seasickness. On the 10th a native of Tahiti, namedManhele, commonly known as John Bull, became violently insane, andhad to be restrained. On the 12th he freed himself and crawled out onthe jib boom, from which he was about to plunge into the sea, when hewas secured. It took five men to handle him. At five o'clock on themorning of the 15th it was discovered that the madman had made a fireby rubbing two sticks together. Fortunately he was detected in time toprevent the ship being set aflame. A few days after this occurrence hiscondition improved and continued so to the end of the voyage.

It was at the Marquesas Islands on May 26th, when we sailed into port,that I went ashore with the rest of the passengers, and met a nativeof Rapia, a very uninviting person in appearance. The people warned usto beware of him as he was a savage and had killed five men. He toldme he had seen me forty years before on his native island, and relatedcircumstances of the event that convinced me his statement was true.

Marquesas Fire Dancers

The next man I spoke to ashore was John H. Rumrell of Boston,Massachusetts, who was taken prisoner by natives on the MarquesasIslands in 1847, and in the following year was tattooed from the tipof his nose to just above his eyebrows, and back to his ear on theleft side of his face; on the right side the tattooing went from thelower part of the nose back to the ear; while above the eyebrow, andreaching to the ear, was another strip. The ink was pricked in withhuman bone. He said that it was because of this tattooing that hewould not return to his people. In his experience he had been withoutclothing for years. He had two sons and one daughter, and lived likethe natives in every respect. He related how that on one occasion thenatives had killed a white man and cooked and ate him, and at the sametime they had killed a colored man, who was eaten raw, before theflesh was cold. Mr. Rumrell said he seldom heard from his relativesin Boston. He seemed almost oblivious to everything except what wasimmediately before him; he took as little interest in civilization asdid the natives, and I have not found a lower class of people in theSouth Pacific than on the five of eleven Marquesas islands which wereinhabited at the time of this visit.

The captain of our vessel informed me that the inhabitants of the groupnumbered about four thousand eight hundred souls, and that there wereten deaths among the natives to one birth, the chief cause of thismortality being the opium habit. The French governor was trying toprohibit the use of the drug, but so far had not been successful.

On the voyage down to the Marquesas we saw many flying fish, whales andother varieties of the finny tribe. On May 12th the sailors caught twosharks, and after cutting them up threw them overboard. We left theport of Taihai, in the Marquesas, on May 28th, and on the 31st sightedTahiti, entering the harbor of Papeete on June 1st, after considerabletrouble.

I remained on board till the afternoon. Mr. Dorence Atwater, formerlyUnited States consul there, came on the vessel, and recognizing me toldme he had an empty room that I was welcome to occupy with my friendsuntil I could do better. I felt that this courtesy had been offered asan answer to my prayers to the Lord. I accepted the invitation and wewent to the house he had been speaking of, from where we returned tothe wharf, and he bade me good evening.

While resting myself a moment near a group of natives I spoke to them,when one came forward and asked why I was there. I replied that I hadcome to preach the Gospel. At this he called four of his companions andintroduced them as Mormon missionaries of the Reorganized Church ofLatter-day Saints, or followers of young Joseph Smith, the Prophet'sson. I told them I did not belong to their organization, but to thetrue Church of Saints, the same as when I was on the islands before.They seemed surprised and confused, and after a pause inquired if Iknew the Josephite missionaries that came from America. I answeredthat all the true Mormon missionaries came from Salt Lake City andvicinity. Then I asked if they knew where I could get a bed, and afterconsultation one of them said I could go with him. My baggage, however,was not through the custom house, and the captain suggested that I hadbetter stay on board, so I went back to the vessel.

That evening Elders Joseph W. Damron and Wm. A. Seegmiller,missionaries from Utah, came on board and asked if there were anyLatter-day Saints there. I introduced myself, then my son Elando, andElder Thomas Jones. Elder Damron insisted that we go on shore with himfor the night, which we did, and my son and I were comfortably locatedat the home of Tiniarau, where we remained some time. The other Elderswent to a house about three miles distant, but next day moved to Mr.Atwater's place. For some days I was very tired and in poor health, andremained at the house talking to people who called.

CHAPTER LXIV.

FIRST SABBATH IN TAHITI—MEET SEVERAL PERSONS WHOM I KNEW OVERFORTY YEARS BEFORE—HOW THEY REMEMBERED ME—SEEK PERMISSION TO HOLDPUBLIC MEETINGS—WIDOW OF MY OLD FRIEND, JOHN LAYTON, CALLS ONME—OTHER FRIENDS—PREACH TO THE JOSEPHITES—GOVERNOR REFUSES TOPERMIT US TO HOLD PUBLIC MEETINGS—GET ADVICE OF THE UNITED STATESCONSUL—A LAWYER'S COUNSEL—JOSEPHITES TELL OF B. F. GROUARD—IEXPLAIN HOW HE HAD TURNED INTO THE WRONG PATH—THE CHURCH NEVERDISORGANIZED—MISSIONARY LABORS—GREETING A FRENCH ADMIRAL—EARLYMISSIONARIES TO TAHITI—THEIR SEVERE EXPERIENCES—SIXTY-FOURTHANNIVERSARY OF MY BIRTH—LEARN OF MORMONS WHO WERE HANGED FORHAVING KILLED A POLICEMAN IN THE TROUBLE WHEN I WAS ARRESTED ONMY FIRST MISSION TO THE ISLANDS—MEET A NATIVE OF PITCAIRN'SISLAND—HIS STORY—VISIT TAUTILA—SEVERE VOYAGE—A BAPTISM—SAIL FORTUBUOI—AMONG STRANGERS—CELEBRATION OF A FRENCH FETE DAY—DINE WITHTHE GOVERNOR—PEOPLE BECOME LESS UNFRIENDLY TO US—BREAKING OF THECLOUDS—BAPTIZE TWENTY-FOUR PERSONS—ENCOURAGING RESULTS OF MISSIONARYEFFORTS.

OUR first Sabbath in Tahiti (June 5, 1892,) we attended the Josephitemeeting. The service was very brief, and the people seemed worried.Next day several of the Josephites called on me, and after a lengthyconversation told me they knew I spoke the truth to them. I was alsovisited by a number of friends who were young when I was on the islandsbefore, but who remembered me. One who came from Anaa said he waspresent when I first landed on that island, and he knew of my laborsand my having been arrested by the French. He remembered me by myvoice, and said the people who heard me then would know me in the sameway, if they did not by seeing me. Many natives came and said they wereglad to see and hear me, though they had been born since I left thecountry.

A Mr. Henry, a son of a former minister of the Church of England,called, and I loaned him a Voice of Warning. He invited me to spend theevening with himself and wife, but I had an appointment. I went nextevening, however, and passed a very enjoyable time, as I did on severaloccasions afterwards. During that week I was visited by very manypeople. Mr. Atwater gave us the privilege of holding public meetingsin his house, but we understood it was necessary to get the permissionof the director and secretary of the interior for the province, soMr. Atwater and I called. That official said we were to submit theapplication to the governor, and he would notify Mr. Atwater of thereply. On Saturday evening I talked on the market grounds to a largenumber of people, several of whom recognized me as having been on theisland forty years before. That evening, at the wharf, I also met withan aged man from Anaa, who had known me on my former mission, and whosaid that if I would go there the people would follow my teachings.

On Sunday, the 12th, who should come to see me but Mrs. Layton, anative, the widow of my old friend John Layton. I had seen her in SanFrancisco. My own sister could not have been more pleased to see me,and I was very glad to meet her. She gave me the best history of myformer friends on the islands that I was able to obtain. Next morningI took a short stroll, then returned to the house. The other Eldersdistributed tracts among the English-speaking residents of Papeete,and I received another call from Mrs. Layton, who brought her littlegranddaughters and also a man—the son of an old friend of mine—whosaid that on my former visit to the island I had named him Iatobo,after my own Tahitian name.

It was while taking breakfast, on the 14th, with a Mr. Mervin, some ofwhose children had been blessed in the Church, that an old lady whocame up, recognized me, and shook hands so persistently that it seemedas if she did not intend to let go, and did not do so for some minutes.She had seen the French officers take me away from Anaa. The old ladyhad known me on sight, though forty years had passed. The same day Imet an aged man who also recognized me from having known me before.That same evening I was given the privilege of addressing the Josephitemeeting and told them how and by whom the Gospel had been brought tothem, and which was the true Church. I tendered my services to preachin their meeting house, but my offer was not accepted.

On the 16th I started with Elder Seegmiller to visit the old prisonwhere I had been incarcerated by the French, but the distance beingtoo great I had to give up the journey. Next day we received from thegovernor a reply to our application for permission to hold publicmeetings. Our request was denied, the reason assigned being that webelieved in polygamy. We had no disposition to let the matter restthere, so we called on the United States consul for advice. He told usto make application in writing for permission to preach, and if refusedto submit it to him. This we did on the 20th, and next day received anunfavorable answer. The governor asked what we taught, and we told him.We stated that we did not teach polygamy. The reason he then gave forrefusing us the permission desired was that there were enough religionsthere and he did not want another established. Mr. Atwater suggestedthat we consult with Mr. Bonett, formerly director and secretary of theinterior, and an able lawyer. We did so, and he informed us that it wasnot necessary to get permission to preach, but that we must notify themayor or justice of the peace of the time and place of our meetings.

To return a few days: On Sunday, the 19th of June, we attended aJosephite meeting, where all were friendly but the presiding officer;yet after meeting he told us to come and eat, sent a half-caste to waiton us, and otherwise was quite attentive. After dinner we talked tothe audience, who appeared well pleased. They said B. F. Grouard hadset native songs to American tunes, and that he had also sent lettersendorsing the Josephite church; he had been one of the first to preachthe true Gospel to their fathers, as I had been, and they were confusedat my coming, for they could not refute what I had said. I was underthe necessity of telling them how that Grouard had turned into thewrong path—an action which they admitted was quite possible. Afterour talk this day we felt that we had done our full duty towards thoseJosephites in explaining to them the true condition of affairs.

On the afternoon of the 20th my old friend Mahana Toro called, but didnot seem so friendly as in former times. He was about seventy years ofage, and very much broken in health. He also had joined the Josephitesunder the misapprehension that they were of the same Church as I was. Itold him the difference, that the Josephite organization was distinct,and was not the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, whichnever had been disorganized. He then seemed to feel more kindly towardsme, and visited me on subsequent occasions, bringing gifts of oranges.

My health was very poor, and at times I was quite ill. I was ablemost of the time, however, to get around, and to preach to thepeople, either those who called on me, or those I had the privilegeof visiting. My missionary companions were also energetic in theirlabors. Occasionally we had the opportunity to extend our acquaintanceinto prominent circles of society. For instance, on June 27th, weattended a select party in honor of the French admiral. There was agrand illumination. I also visited captains of vessels engaged intraffic between the islands, and had pleasant chats with them onthe principles of the Gospel. I did not fail to talk to the nativeswhenever occasion offered, and this was frequent. On July 2nd, in themarket square, a large crowd gathered around me as I preached, andmost of them acknowledged the truth of the principles I taught. Then,lest the police stop me for raising an excitement, I changed to askingquestions, as in conversation, so no offense could be taken by theofficers.

I learned an interesting bit of missionary history on July 3rd. Thisday, I met Mr. J. S. Henry, who said his father was one of the firstChristian missionaries on the islands, having come to Tahiti in 1797.They had a very hard time of it. For years their clothing was made ofthe bark of the bread-fruit tree, and they had gone barefooted for along time, their shoes and clothing having worn out. They had been fiveyears without receiving any supply from their society. My informantwas born on the island. I loaned him a copy of the Deseret News, whichcontained sermons by President Wilford Woodruff and by Elder C. W.Penrose, who was editor of the paper at that time.

Monday, July 4, 1892, was the sixty-fourth anniversary of my birth, andI was spending it in far off Tahiti. I had but few callers that day,and consequently but few congratulations. I continued my efforts tomake myself more proficient in the Tahitian language, and from day today proceeded with the duties that rested on me. July 12th an aged manTematu called on me, saying that he was from the island of Anaa, andhad been my servant on the occasion of my former visit. He told me ofthe four members of the Church that were hanged by the French; for inthe trouble then they had killed a policeman and had wounded severely aCatholic priest. The names of the executed men were Tefaitina, Reifara,Maru, Mafeuta and Temutu.

Among the very aged people I met was one who called on me on July 18,Timou, aged one hundred and three years. I also met, at a blacksmithshop, on July 21st, a native of Pitcairn's island, William Christenson.He was a descendant of one of the mutineers of the British ship Bounty.He told the story as follows: The Bounty sailed from England in theyear 1689, the company intending to collect plants from the SouthSea Islands. They called at Tahiti, and made their collection, thengot some natives and their wives and some other women on board, andput out to sea. Fletcher Christenson, first mate, and some of thecrew mutinied, getting control of the vessel. They put the captain,whose name was Blythe, and those who wished to go with him, into thebest boat, supplied them with such articles as they desired whichwere at hand, and set them adrift. This party subsequently reachedEngland, while the first mate and crew ran the ship into a small bay atPitcairn's Island, where they wrecked the vessel, taking the supplieson shore. All went well for a time, till the native men became jealousof the white men and killed most of them. Afterwards, at the instanceof the remaining white men, the women killed the native men who hadescaped in the former trouble, so there were left but two of the whitemen and the women. These, and after them, their descendants, lived onthe island, which was but a few miles in circumference. The populationincreased to about four hundred souls, when the British governmentmoved them to Norfolk Island. Some of them returned to Pitcairn's, andat that time (1892) there were one hundred and thirty-six souls on theisland, every one belonging to the Seventh Day Adventists, and allspeaking the English language. Mr. Christenson said that the only namesof the mutinous crew he remembered besides those of the captain and hisown progenitor, were John Adams, —— McKay, John Mills, Isaac Brown and—— Yindle. Christenson's story does not harmonize precisely with thegenerally accepted history of the affair, but I have given it as herelated it.

For a considerable time we had endeavored to get passage for someof the Elders to the island of Tuamotu, but were unsuccessful, sowe divided Papeete into missionary districts, Elder Damron and myson Elando taking the east side, and Elders Seegmiller and Jones thewestern district. During the latter part of July and the greaterportion of August, I was quite ill, and was troubled greatly withneuralgia. On August 14th, we applied to the Josephites for permissionto speak in their house, but it was refused, resulting in quite adiscussion among the members of the Josephite congregation, some ofwhom were quite friendly to us. On the 23rd my son Elando and I leftPapeete, by invitation, for Tautila, going in a boat in which therewere four other men and a woman, the latter being a sister of the ownerof the craft. When we got off Haapape the wind became so high that themen were obliged to row for the shore, and we found refuge in the homeof Terumana, a native, who fed us on native food and gave each of us agood bed.

We had to remain there till 11 p.m. on the 25th, when we started to seaagain, the night being pitch dark. The woman made me as comfortableas was possible in the small boat, and all went well for a time withthe exception of seasickness. Then it came on to rain very hard, andwe were all wet. Early in the morning we ran into shore, and the menin charge of the boat asked us to pray, which I did. We then proceededon our way with a cocoanut each for breakfast, and at half-past eightp.m., on the 26th, reached the mouth of a river on Tautila.

Our host was Mr. Hiotina, and his wife's name was Teumere. She wasan invalid, her frame almost a skeleton, but she was a very brightwoman intellectually. Her memorizing of Scripture passages was truly amarvel. The next day after our arrival was Saturday, and many peoplecame out of curiosity to see us. On Sunday, the 28th, about sixtypeople assembled, and our host requested us to hold religious services,which we did. While I was preaching on faith, repentance, and baptism,taking my text from the third chapter of Matthew, an old lady wentover to my son, who was near the door, and requested baptism. This wasthe first application of the kind made to us on the island. The ladyhad been a member of the Church, but had become negligent. At 5 p.m.that day she was baptized by Elder Elando Brown, and I confirmed hera member of the Church, there being many people present, among them aProtestant minister.

We stayed on Tautila until September 9th, visiting among the people andpreaching and talking to them, as opportunity afforded, though we couldnot get a house to preach in. On the 9th we returned to Papeete, thevoyage being very rough and trying. I could hardly stand on my crutcheswhen we landed, at 10 p.m.

On the 11th we arranged for four of us to go to Tubuoi, but thegovernor informed the captain that he could take but two whitepassengers, so on August 15th Elder Seegmiller and I left on a vesselbound for the island named. The voyage lasted till the 20th and wasdecidedly uncomfortable. We did not have sufficient food, there was nobedding, and the water on board was filthy. Worn and exhausted, we wereglad to get ashore at Tapuai, where we were coldly greeted. We secureda comfortable lodging room, so far as appearances were concerned, andplenty of fleas for bed-fellows. Our room-mate was a young man namedAlexander Drolett, interpreter for the French captain of a governmentschooner that was lying in the harbor. There we met Tapuni, a nativeJosephite preacher who had been on the island about five months. Hetried to be sociable, but was ill at ease, apparently being discomfitedby our arrival. We found the people generally very distant, as if theydid not wish us there. Mr. Drolett, however, was kind and sociable, andwe had the privilege of explaining to him the nature of our calling onthe islands.

September 22, 1892, was the one hundredth anniversary of the firstFrench republic, and a feast and holiday had been proclaimed. Flagswere hoisted, and the people gathered to the feast. We were among thoseinvited, and were seated at the table with the captain of the Frenchschooner and his interpreter, and the governor and his wife, alsoTapuni. About ninety persons were at the feast. Dinner was served inFrench and native styles blended. This was followed by singing, and bydancing and contortions of the old heathen fashion, until I was wornout.

The following day the French schooner left, and Elder Seegmiller andI sent a letter to our brethren at Papeete. As we were in the housea policeman called and gazed at us for a time, then left withoutspeaking. Next came the native governor, Tahuhuetoma, who enteredwithout noticing me, but I slapped him on the shoulder and asked himif he had eyes, whereat he spoke, but had little to say. Then came anative, Tehaheatihi, from the village of Mahu, on the south side of theisland. He was very friendly, and said he had joined the Josephitesbut had discovered his mistake. I was quite ill, so could not accepthis invitation to accompany him to Mahu, except on the condition thathe furnish a conveyance, which he promised to try to do. Our landlord,however, told us not to trouble, but to remain till Sunday, when wewould all go to Mahu, and could speak to the people there. He saidTapuni was not pleased, but that made little difference.

Next day was Saturday, the 24th—the occasion of greater kindness tous from the natives than previously; for two children aged ten andtwelve years brought us some food, as did also the governor's wife. OnSunday further friendship was displayed, and the people came to askus questions; but we were unable to go to Mahu, and were refused theprivilege of speaking at the religious services in the place wherewe were. On Monday, however, we went to Mahu, where we met twelve tofifteen men, with whom we had a pleasant visit, talking to them quitefreely.

During that week we met a number of people who exhibited a kindlyfeeling towards us in conversation. Some applied for baptism, butI advised them to wait. By the end of the week the clouds over themission began to break. When Sunday came there was a religious feast,but we were not allowed to take part, so, with about five natives, heldservices of singing, prayer and conversation. Again in the afternoonwe had a meeting at which about thirty persons were present, and Iexplained how the authority had continued in the Church from theProphet Joseph to the present organization. At that meeting ElderSeegmiller spoke publicly in the native tongue for the first time.There were several applications for baptism, and on the followingTuesday, October 4th, Elder Seegmiller baptized twenty-four persons,whom I confirmed members of the Church. Thus the missionary work on theisland was opened up again, with a fair start for prosperity.

CHAPTER LXV.

MIRACULOUS HEALING—MEET AND CONFOUND THE JOSEPHITES—FURTHERMISSIONARY SUCCESS—MEET A NATIVE WHO WAS PRESENT WHEN I WASSENTENCED TO BE BURNED—ELDER JOHN LAYTON'S GRAVE—ARRANGE TO RETURNTO TAHITI—DISAPPOINTED—PREACH A FUNERAL SERMON—FORBIDDEN TO HOLDPUBLIC MEETINGS—BLIND WOMAN ONE HUNDRED AND TWENTY YEARS OLD—HERTESTIMONY—ADMINISTER TO HER FOR HER EYESIGHT, AND SHE IS ENABLED TOSEE A LITTLE—SHE PRAISES THE LORD—PREACHING AND BAPTIZING—SAILFOR PAPEETE—AN ODD CARGO—HARD VOYAGE—HELD BY A CALM—LAND ONTAHITI—SAIL FOR AVAROA—ON A WELL-ORDERED SCHOONER—CALL AT VARIOUSISLANDS—LANCE A CARBUNCLE—CHRISTMAS DAY AT SEA—WATERMELONS—ABEAUTIFUL RESIDENCE AND CORDIAL WELCOME—PERFORM THREE MARRIAGECEREMONIES—CONFERENCE OF SAINTS IN THE TUAMOTU ISLANDS—MEET A NATIVECHILEAN—VISIT VARIOUS PLACES—PUBLIC WELCOME—FISHING—ON THE ISLANDOF ANAA—VISIT WHERE I WAS IMPRISONED—GRAVES OF THOSE CONCERNED INTHE TROUBLE THEN—WARRANT SERVED ON ME—SUMMONED TO THE GOVERNMENTHOUSE—WARNED AGAINST CREATING A DISTURBANCE.

IT was on October 6, 1892, that the first case of miraculous healingafter our arrival occurred. We were becoming recipients of greaterkindness from the natives, and that day Roai, the oldest man onthe island, was brought to us, shaking violently with a chill. Heappeared to be dying. Some cocoanut oil was brought—no other wasobtainable—and we blessed it and anointed and blessed him, when thechill immediately left him. He rested well, and next morning was in hisusual good health.

On the 7th there was quite an argument among the people as to whetherthe Josephites or the Mormons should have the meeting house. Thedecision was in our favor, and we were also offered a house in thevillage of Taahuaia. The Josephite preacher, Tapuni, wanted to holdjoint meetings with us, as we both followed the same form of baptism;but we refused, as we could not make any alliance with him. Werepresented the true Church of Jesus Christ, while his organization wasby persons who had been excommunicated, and had not divine authority.

When Sunday came we held three meetings, blessed fourteen children, andtook dinner with the policeman. Next day, the 10th, we ordained Ote anElder, and added nine persons to the Church by baptism. On the 11th wemet a man—the fourth on the island—who was on the island of Raivavaiwhen the natives had built a fire to burn me, and when I was deliveredby the power of God. They claimed to have been present when I wassentenced, but denied taking any part in the proceedings.

Friday, October 14th, we bade the Saints of Mahu farewell (having, theday previous, ordained two Elders, two Priests, one Teacher and oneDeacon) and went to Taahuaia, where the people were quite indifferentto us. From time to time, however, we were able to converse with someof them, and baptized several. On the 23rd, the governor gave uspermission to hold meetings, and we began doing so. I visited the graveof Elder John Layton on the 24th, and on the 25th arranged to leave ona schooner for Tahiti. My health had been quite poor for some time. Idid not go on the boat, however, for it was so heavily laden that therewas no room, so it sailed on the 27th without me. Monday, October 31st,I preached the funeral sermon of a little girl.

On the 5th of November, the Josephite preacher and his wife calledon me. In the evening a special meeting of the people was held, thepurpose of which was kept secret from us. That night I dreamed I wason trial and the judge said he knew I was not guilty, but because ofthe demand of the people he would have to give judgment against me andassess a fine of twenty dollars, which the court would pay. I awoke andtold Elder Seegmiller the natives had made a decision against us, as welearned the next day, when the governor withdrew from us the privilegeof holding meetings.

We went to Mataura on November 7th, to see a man possessed of a devil.The evil spirit was dumb, and for three years the man had not spokento anyone, but sat or laid around. We also visited the school wherethere were about thirty students, and the teacher called one pupil tothe blackboard, where the exercise in writing required of her was welldone. Then we called on Tetuatehiapa, the oldest woman on the island.She was one hundred and twenty years of age, and had been blind foreight years. The people said she had insisted that she would live tillthe servants of God came from Salt Lake City. When told who we were sherejoiced greatly, and exclaimed, "I always said you would come again!The Lord has brought you, and has prolonged my life till you came. Irejoice exceedingly at the mercies of the Lord!" On November 8th, webaptized her with seven others, and on the 10th administered to her forher blindness by laying hands on her head and blessing her. When we hadattended to the ordinance she stated that she could see a little, whichwas more than she had done for eight years. "God be praised for Hismercies," she said.

Sunday, November 13th, I preached twice to large congregations at Mahu,where we arrived on the 11th. We also had a number of applicants forbaptism, and on the 14th eight members were added to the Church by theordinance, and we blessed two children. A Catholic priest called on us,and I had a pointed discussion with him on authority in the Church, andthe true Gospel. We parted good friends, he promising to come againnext day, but he did not do so; although he passed by the house, butnever looked towards us. On the 16th we added five more souls tothe Church by baptism.

Our missionary labors continued in different villages, and on November23 Elder Seegmiller baptized the school teacher at Mataura, also two ofthe governor's daughters. On the 21st the captain of a schooner thathad called at the island told us we could go to Tahiti on his vessel,starting on the 24th. Elder Seegmiller aided me in preparing for thevoyage, and I bade farewell to the people, who were very much attachedto us. I shook hands with the governor, when his eyes filled withtears, he kissed me, and was so full of emotion that it was difficultfor him to speak. In due time the vessel sailed, Elder Seegmiller goingon it to Mataura, three miles down the coast, where he went ashore, aswe had agreed, and I was alone so far as a missionary companion wasconcerned.

At Mataura the French police justice and his wife, a Marquesas woman,came aboard, and at 6 p.m. we weighed anchor. The schooner was verymuch crowded, the cargo including four women, two children, fourteenmen, three horses, twenty hogs, one goat, one dog, about one hundredchickens, eight or ten turkeys, eleven thousand cocoanuts, and a lotof other things. The most comfortable place I could find was on thecompanion-way, where I sat, as I was not able to use my crutches onthe vessel. The first night out I found I could not sleep in my berth,as it was too cramped and the tobacco smoke and foul air were too muchfor me, so I camped on the companion-way with my blanket, and was veryseasick. The next night I fared about the same, and it was pretty hardon me; but the third night, Saturday, I went below before the othersdid, and obtained a fairly good night's rest.

Sunday, November 27, we sighted Tahiti, but a heavy rain and calmheld us back over Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday. On the last-namedday the crew caught a shark, and we had some of it boiled for supper.Thursday, December 1st, we landed at Papeete in a heavy rainstorm, andquite exhausted. I was met by my son Elando, and once on shore I wasrefreshed with palatable food and good news from my family. We spentour time the next fourteen days in missionary labors in Papeete, tothe best advantage, and on the sixth baptized eight persons into theChurch. My health was decidedly poor at this time.

We had arranged with Mr. Henry Marvin for passage on the schoonerAvaroa to the Tuamotu islands, sailing on December 15th. We lefton the date named and though we had some headwinds and calms, we hada good voyage; for the captain (a Hawaiian) and crew were agreeable,the vessel was kept clean and in perfect order, and the table was wellsupplied with a good variety of food. We sighted several islands, andon the 20th stopped at Niau, which has a population of one hundred, allmembers of the Josephite Church. Their presiding officer and a numberof his people came on board and gave us six chickens and six basketsof cocoanuts as a token of friendship. I talked to them on the Gospelmessage I had to deliver as a missionary.

We went ashore on the island of Apatai on the 23rd, as Mr. Marvinhad some business there. The people were rather indifferent to us asmissionaries. I visited the governor, who said he had been my servanton the island of Anaa when I was there forty years before. He was verymuch afflicted with a carbuncle on the back of his head and neck, andcould move about only by crawling on his hands and knees. I lanced hiscarbuncle, and he recovered.

Christmas Day, 1892, was spent on the schooner Avaroa, and we soughtthe coolest place we could find and ate watermelons, thinking of ourmountain home and the loved ones in Utah. Next day we sailed intoport at Taroa, and were met by Elder Joseph W. Damron and some nativeSaints. I was welcomed to the home of Mr. Mapuhi, a seven-roomed framehouse, built on pillars of coral stone and beautifully furnished inAmerican fashion. The place seemed perfectly lovely, and a surprise forus in the way of a spring mattress to sleep on was doubly welcome. Thefollowing day was the 27th, and I had the privilege of preaching to agood audience.

The 28th of December was Wednesday, and the morning was marked by thereceipt of an invitation to a triple wedding and feast to be heldthat afternoon at the government building. I attended and by requestperformed the marriage ceremony for the three couples. I also availedmyself of the opportunity to address the assemblage briefly on thesubjects of marriage and baptism for the dead. This day I had theunusual experience of standing in the door of the house where we werelodging and viewing a large school of whales pass by.

New Year's day, 1893, was the time for a conference of the Saints to beheld on the island of Faiti, so preparations were made on December 29thfor us to leave Taroa. On this date I met a native Chilean, who saidhe came from San Antonio, about thirty miles south of Valparaiso. WhenI heard this, it called to my mind a statement of Dr. J. M. Bernhisel,that he had learned from the Prophet Joseph Smith that that was nearthe place where Lehi and his colony, told of in the Book of Mormon,landed in America, on their journey from Jerusalem. In the afternoon westarted, on Mapuhi's schooner, for Faiti, six boatloads of the Saintsgoing along. Our vessel had twenty persons aboard. The wind was fair,and on Saturday, December 31st, we reached Faiti, landing about 9:30a.m. Our reception was rather cool, as we were ushered into a largeroom, almost bare save a long table and a few chairs, and were leftalone much of the time. However, we had good beds at night. In themorning, Sunday, January 1st, we held meeting, and I called for thosewho had known me on my former mission to stand up. Seventeen personsarose to their feet, and stated that they remembered and recognized me.Our meetings at conference were well attended. The presiding officer ofthe Church in the Tuamotu islands was a blind man, and he asked me anumber of questions to satisfy himself that I was the same one who hadbeen there forty years before with Elders Pratt and Grouard. I baptizedhim at that time. When he was fully convinced he remarked that if I hadnot come he would not have received the young missionaries, referringto Elders Damron, Jones, and my son Elando.

It was January 4th before the people gave us the public reception thatwas customary. At the ceremony an aged man related how they had prayedthat I might come back to them again, to teach them the true Gospel.That day the French gen d' armes made some charges of irregularityagainst the owner of our boat, saying the captain had not the properpapers. It was generally understood, however, that the troubleoriginated with the Catholic priest. Matters were finally settled. Nextmorning I went fishing with our landlord and caught six nice rock cod,where the sea was ten fathoms deep. The water was so clear that througha glass we could see the bottom, with the myriad beauties and greatvariety of fish at that place. The anchor of the canoe got fast in acoral reef, and our host dived down and released it.

We continued to hold meetings all the week to give the people a correctunderstanding of our mission; then, on January 9th, my son Elando andI sailed for the island of Anaa, arriving there at noon that day, andbeing warmly welcomed by the people of Tuuhora, where we landed.

On the 11th, I walked over the ground where I had been held a prisonerby the French government, and visited the cemetery where was the graveof the policeman who had been killed in an affray subsequent to mydeparture. On the afternoon of the 13th, I visited the graves of thosewho were hanged by the French government for their part in the tragedy.Upon my return from the cemetery, a warrant was served on me by apoliceman. It was in both French and English, the English translationreading as follows:

"Monsieur Jacob, Ministre Mormon:

"The gen d' arme chief of port at Anaa invites Mr. Jacob (James),Mormon minister at Tuuhora, to come to the government house at Tuuhora(Fare Hau), to listen to a communication which he desires him to hear.

"Cy. Cours,

"The Gen d' arme Chief of Post.

"Tuuhora, 13th January, 1893."

Of course I responded to this invitation from the chief of police, sowith my son Elando reported as requested, to listen to an order madeby the governor of the Tuamotu group of islands. The chief of policewarned us particularly that if we caused the slightest disturbanceamong the people over the meeting house, or otherwise, it might resultseriously to me. This was repeated six times, in an emphatic tone ofvoice. The officer refused utterly to hear anything from us, saying, "Ifollow out my instructions. You must not step your foot inside of themeeting house at Temeraia, nor the house here."

Finding it was useless for us to say anything, we bade the chief ofpolice and the interpreter (Mr. Burns, an Englishman) good-bye, andleft them to their stench of strong drink.

CHAPTER LXVI.

PREACHING AND VISITING—PEARL FISHING—PLACE OF MY ARREST IN1851—ACCIDENT TO A YOUNG MAN—INCIDENT WITH THE GOVERNOR OF ANAA—SEEA LEPER—CAPTURE OF AN EEL—CONFERENCE ON ANAA—TIME OF DEDICATIONOF SALT LAKE TEMPLE—SPECIALLY INTERESTING MEETINGS—NEW ELDERS FROMUTAH—START BACK TO TAHITI—ANOTHER FUNERAL SERMON—MEET THE FRENCHGOVERNOR OF THE TUAMOTU ISLANDS—HIS CORDIAL GREETING—ARRIVE ATPAPEETE—APPOINTMENTS FOR THE NEW MISSIONARIES—FAIL TO GET A PASSAGETO TUBUOI—MY HEALTH VERY POOR—LEARN OF THE DEDICATION OF THE SALTLAKE TEMPLE—ELDERS UNANIMOUS IN THE DECISION THAT I SHOULD RETURN HOMEBECAUSE OF MY ILLNESS—I DEMUR—CONCLUDE TO GO—TROUBLE ON ANAA—MYSIXTY-FIFTH BIRTHDAY—NOTABLE KINDNESS OF A NATIVE CHILD—SAIL FROMPAPEETE—DIFFICULTY IN LANDING FROM SMALL BOATS—IN THE SOCIETYISLANDS—REACH SAN FRANCISCO—ARRIVE IN SALT LAKE CITY—REPORT THESUCCESSFUL OPENING OF THE SOCIETY ISLANDS MISSION.

AFTER the severe warning from the governor, we returned to ourmissionary labors, preaching to the people as we could findopportunity. The Sunday following this occurrence (January 15th) wehad three well-attended meetings in a private meeting house, andon Monday we went in a boat to Putuahara, a town of two thousandpeople on my first visit but now dwindled down to a place with lessthan sixty inhabitants. All the ablebodied men were away, engaged inpearl-fishing. This is the place where the people killed the Frenchpoliceman and severely beat the Catholic priest, as already stated.

We conversed with and preached to the inhabitants until the 25th, whenwe went to Otopipi, but returned that same day, as our friends therewere absent from home. Our missionary work in Putuahara continued tillFebruary 4th, when we again went to Otopipi. Next day being Sunday Ihad the privilege of preaching to a large congregation. There werethirty-one native members of the Church present. Many of the people inattendance were Catholics, and my remarks raised quite a discussionamong them, some of them being for and others against me. Earlyon Monday, according to previous arrangement, we sailed around toTemeraia, receiving a hearty welcome there.

At this place we met the granddaughter of John Hawkins, once an Elderin this mission and now a Josephite. I also visited the spot where Ihad been arrested in the year 1851. The house had been cleared awaysince then, and an old wrecked boat occupied the site. We held meetingsand had a large attendance, though the weather was intensely hot andoppressive, and my health quite poor.

On February 17th a young man named Temia fell thirty-five feet from atree and broke his arm in three places, the bones coming through hisskin in one place. With such hot weather, and no surgical or medicalattendance available, it looked as though his chances for recoveryseemed slight. We visited him again on the 28th, and his case lookedeven more serious. We administered to him, and he ultimately recovered.Towards the latter part of the month the people began to feel morefriendly to us, and received us more cordially than at first.

While we were in meeting on March 1st, the governor passed, and ashe was averse to recognizing us then as previously, I called to himand asked the reason. His reply was that it was not wise to do so. Icontinued to talk with him, and he became more sociable, confessingthat it was the darkness of his heart that had caused him to act soimproperly. I advised him to repent of his sins and ask the Lord togive him light, and he felt better. Two days after this I beheld theunusual sight of a leper, as one passed the house—a painful pictureto behold. The third day a man and his wife were baptized into theChurch. A visit to Tuuhora was made on March 6th. and on the returnvoyage, while diving for pearls, an eel was discovered under a rockin deep water. It took quite a light to capture it, but it was a fineone—about four feet long. We went to Putuahara on March 13, and duringthe remainder of the month continued our missionary labors, meetingwith no unusual experiences.

On March 31st, Elders Damron and Jones came from Fakariva, andnative members of the Church began to arrive in preparation for ourconference, which was set for April 6th, 1893. At 7 o'clock thatmorning we assembled in conference, being the same actual time whenthe Saints were meeting for the dedication of the Temple in Salt LakeCity, Utah—10 a.m. at the latter place. I explained to the Saints inconference the nature and importance of the event just named. ElderDamron also spoke on temple building, and after the close of ourmeeting we went to the seashore, where we held a short service, andmy son Elando baptized five persons into the Church. We also ordainedthree native Elders and appointed two of them to preside over branchesof the Church. The conference continued till Sunday evening, and all inattendance had a most enjoyable time.

We had received word on Saturday that eight Elders had arrived atPapeete from Utah, and at the close of conference we decided that wehad better return to Tahiti as soon as possible. Next morning we badefarewell to the weeping Saints, and set sail for Tuuhora. From there wetook passage for Taroa. On April 12th, we stopped at Apatai, where Iwent ashore and met a number of people whom I had baptized on my formermission. They did not display much of a hospitable feeling, as noneinvited me to their houses.

Taroa was reached on April 16th, and the hearty welcome there washighly appreciated after a voyage which had been very unpleasant to me,as I had been quite ill. We were met by Messrs. Marvin and Mapuhi, andescorted to the latters fine residence. It being Sunday, we attendedmeetings. My son Elando was also called on, on on April 21st, to preachthe funeral sermon over a young man who had died of consumption.

On the morning of April 27th, the schooner Avaroa came into port,having on board the French governor of the Tuamotu group, also thenative governor of Taroa. We had a friendly chat with them, theFrenchman saying he had been in Salt Lake City. He invited me to visithim when I went to Fakariva again. Next day the people assembled to paytheir respects to the governor, and we also had another pleasant chatwith him.

We started from Taroa on Monday, May 1st, on the Avaroa, but as thevessel was going out to sea she struck on a rock which disabled therudder, and it took till evening to repair it. Then we sailed forFakariva, reaching there the following afternoon. The French governorwent ashore, and later we did the same. Next morning we took breakfastwith him, being invited to come again whenever we were on the island.That afternoon we sailed for Tahiti, reaching Papeete harbor onSaturday, May 6th, and meeting there Elders Edward Sudbury, Frank Goff,Frank Cutler, Eugene M. Cannon, Carl J. Larsen, Thomas L. Woodbury,Fred C. Rossiter and Jesse M. Fox, all from Utah.

At a meeting of the missionaries held on May 13th, Elders Carl J.Larsen and Thomas L. Woodbury were appointed to go to the Tuamotuislands, Elders Frank Goff and Jesse M. Fox to Tubuoi, with my sonElando and myself and the others remaining on Tahiti for a short time.Through Mr. Marvin we engaged passage on a French man-of-war going toTubuoi, the captain giving his permission. But after we had packedour trunks and purchased our provisions for the journey, the captainsuggested that we had better get a permit from the governor. We triedto do so, but that official responded with an abrupt "No." So we had toawait another opportunity.

For some time previous to this date my health had been poorer thanusual, and it grew worse, so that it was with difficulty I attended tomissionary labors and to conducting the mission affairs. I continuedat work, however, the best I could, and my fellow-missionaries weredevoted to their duties. Some of them were in the best of health, butothers were not so fortunate; indeed, one of them, Edward Sudbury, wasunder the necessity of returning home shortly after the date of which Iwrite. On May 25th we received mail telling us of the dedication of theTemple in Salt Lake City, and the notable events connected therewith.

I had tried to get a hall in which to hold meetings for the Europeanresidents of Papeete, my last efforts in that line being on June 13th,but I was unsuccessful, so we had to do without, and endeavor to reachthem and the natives in other ways. On June 25th we held a councilmeeting of all the Elders on Tahiti, eight in number, at which methodsfor the best conduct of the mission were considered. Among other eventsof the meeting was the unanimous expression by my fellow-missionariesof the opinion that my state of health was such that I should go home.A motion that I do so was put and carried, all but myself voting infavor of my going by the next mail steamer, which sailed July 8th. Ithought that if conditions improved before that time, I would be atliberty to remain longer in the mission field. Elder Sudbury was alsoin such health that he was booked to start home at the same time, andmy son Elando was selected to accompany us, and give me the attention Ineeded.

My health showing no signs of improvement, passage was secured onthe brig Galilee, bound for San Francisco. On June 27th we had seentwo persons from Anaa, who informed us there was trouble there,the missionaries not obtaining their rights to preach. I gave suchadvice as I felt would be safe to follow, and Elder J. W. Damron, whosucceeded me in the presidency of the mission, was left to deal withaffairs.

On July 4th, my sixty-fifth birthday, John Hawkins, one of myfellow-laborers of forty-two years before, who had apostatized andjoined the Josephites, called, with others. He was particularly bittertowards the Church. That day little Tapura, between six and seven yearsold, brought me, of her own volition, a large and beautiful bouquet offlowers—an act of kindness scarcely to be expected in one so young.She is the daughter of Mr. Topaz, who was very kind to us.

The day previous to our going on board, the neighbors brought inbananas and cocoanuts for our use on the voyage, and we were treatedwell. We bade farewell to friends and associates, all being sorry atthe parting, and on July 8th I sailed for the last time from the harborof Papeete, island of Tahiti. The words of Apostle Lorenzo Snow, spokento me before commencing my journey, had been fulfilled. Though thismission had not been so long as some of the others I had filled, it hadbeen one of the greatest and best I had performed, so far as relatesto the work I had been the means of accomplishing in reopening andestablishing the Society Islands mission.

Our vessel this voyage was very different to those we often had to usein our travels from place to place, even in the same island. We alsobade adieu to the native method of landing from boats, which alwaysbrought discomfort and often serious peril. For illustration, it wasno uncommon thing, when approaching harbor, to have to pass throughbreakers across a coral reef where there was barely room for the boatto glide between the rocks. Sometimes the vessel would be run closeto the opening, the occupants would spring out on to the rocks on eachside of the passage, and seizing the boat, would hold it there tillthe large or "three-twin-sisters" wave came along; and then, by itsaid, would drag or push the boat through in safety. In such times asthese my lame condition was hindersome to the extent of being more thanannoying; it was exasperating. But I always got through, though it washard work, and my companions gave the needed assistance with perfectwillingness.

The voyage to San Francisco was without particular event more than isusual on such occasions, as was also the journey from San Francisco toSalt Lake City by rail. We reached home about the middle of August,and were welcomed cordially. I reported to the First Presidency thecondition of affairs in the mission, the progress we had made, with thedifficulties that were to be met with. Elando and I had been absent forsixteen months, and had worked with diligence to perform our part.

Our efforts had been blessed of the Lord, for many people who had beenastray from the path of life were led to direct their footsteps in thestraight and narrow path. The Society Islands mission had been reopenedsuccessfully, and yet continues to prosper, the membership in theChurch there being quite numerous.

CHAPTER LXVII.

INVITED TO THE MIDWINTER FAIR, SAN FRANCISCO, AND ACCEPT—JOURNEY TOCALIFORNIA—KIND TREATMENT RECEIVED—AN HONORED GUEST—WRITE A PAMPHLETON THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD AT SUTTER'S MILL RACE—FIRST ACCURATE ACCOUNTPUBLISHED—AGAIN AT HOME—PREPARING MY AUTOBIOGRAPHY FOR PUBLICATION—AGREAT TASK—PROGRESS OF THE WORK—MY HISTORY OF THE FIRST MISSION TOTHE PACIFIC ISLANDS—UTAH'S SEMI-CENTENNIAL JUBILEE—NOT A UTAH PIONEEROF 1847—PIONEER JUST THE SAME—MORMON BATTALION RECOGNIZED IN THE UTAHCELEBRATION—INVITED TO JOIN IN THE PARADE—COMPARATIVE NARROWNESS OFCOMMITTEE'S COURTESY—LETTERS FROM CALIFORNIA, REGARDING THE PIONEERCELEBRATION THERE IN 1898—INVITED WITH THREE OTHERS OF THE MORMONBATTALION, TO BE SPECIAL GUESTS AS THE SURVIVORS OF THE PARTY THATDISCOVERED GOLD IN CALIFORNIA IN 1848—APPRECIATION OF THE COURTESYEXTENDED BY CALIFORNIANS.

AS my health was far from satisfactory, I was able to do but littleafter my return from the Society Islands in August, 1893. I gave myfarm some attention, and traveled occasionally among the people. InFebruary, 1894, I received an invitation from James H. Love, managerfor the concession of the '49 mining camp at the Midwinter Fair, inGolden Gate Park, San Francisco, to be present there. The invitationcame to me through Israel Evans, of Lehi, Utah, who had been with me inCalifornia in 1848. I accepted, and in company with Israel Evans and myson James T. Brown, went to California in the month named.

This visit to California extended about thirty days. We were treatedwith the greatest kindness. Our place of lodging at the miner's cabinon the fair grounds was comfortably fitted, and besides viewing themost excellent exhibits of this notable Midwinter Exposition, we alsovisited most of the places of interest in the locality. We were honoredguests in every parade, and nothing more could be desired in the way ofcourtesies to make our stay pleasant.

While in California on this occasion I wrote my pamphlet. "AuthenticHistory of the First Discovery of Gold in Sutter's Mill Race,California." This was the first accurate history of that event I hadseen in print, all the other accounts having been gathered from hearsayand broken narratives, while I had the advantage of being an actualparticipant in the historic occurrence.

In March, 1894, I returned home, and continued my ordinary labors, myhealth being considerably improved. At this time I began preparingmy journal for publication, having to rewrite it to place it inpresentable form, as much of it had been noted down under very adversecircumstances; it was also necessary to condense it greatly, many itemsof real interest being abbreviated to a considerable extent.

I believe now that if I had realized at the outset what a great taskit was, I should not have attempted it, notwithstanding the fact thatI was fully aware that my life's experience had been filled withunusually interesting episodes. But I had not been accustomed to givingup a work once undertaken with a good aim; so I have continued to thepresent, and as I prepare this chapter, the earlier part of the work isin the hands of the printer. The only literary experience I have hadprevious to this work is writing a history of the first mission to thePacific Islands and the subsequent progress of events in the SocietyIslands mission up to 1893, the manuscript of which history was filedwith and is now a part of the records of the Church historian's office.

In July, 1897, Utah's Semi-Centennial Jubilee was celebrated, theoccasion being the fiftieth anniversary of the entrance of the MormonPioneers into the valley of the Great Salt Lake, July 24, 1847. Thechief ceremonies were in Salt Lake City, July 20th to 25th, and I hadthe honor and pleasure of being present. I had not the privilege ofbeing classed as one of the pioneers, for these were limited in thecelebration to those who reached Utah in 1847, and I did not arrivethere from the west till 1848. With the Mormon Battalion members,however, I was a Mormon pioneer, in the memorable journey across thecountry to the Pacific; I was also a pioneer in California, and laterin Utah and surrounding places. The committee on the semi-centennialcelebration, however, noted the fact that the members of the MormonBattalion were entitled to recognition in connection with the Utahpioneer band, for the work of both was intimately associated. Inpursuance of this, there was sent to me under date of July 19th, aletter containing this announcement:

"Survivors of the Mormon Battalion, the Nauvoo Legion, Captain Ballo'sBand, and the Martial Band, are requested to meet at Pioneer Square onTuesday next, July 20th, at 9 o'clock a.m., sharp, for the purpose ofmarching in advance of the original band of Pioneers to witness theunveiling ceremonies upon that occasion. Those who are able to walk areearnestly requested to do so, but those who are too feeble to walk willjoin them at the Monument.

"Hoping to see you with us at the appointed time, I am,

"Yours respectfully,

"H. F. MCGARVIE,

"Assistant Director-General."

I responded to this limited notice, in common with other members of theMormon Battalion at hand. But the summary treatment was in such strongcontrast to the consideration and courtesy extended at the MidwinterFair, and subsequently at the California Golden Jubilee, that itseffect was to enhance greatly, in the minds' of those who participatedin the California and the Utah celebrations, the admiration for theCalifornia managers in their broad and thorough comprehension of theamenities of such historic public events. But I must add here that theMormon Battalion members, whose journey west was over another routethan that followed by the companies which came direct to the SaltLake Valley, were fitly honored in the hearts of Utah's people as ofthe pioneer band in the great west. December 1, 1897, I received thefollowing;

"1216 HYDE STREET, SAN FRANCISCO,

"November 29, 1897.

"Mr. James S. Brown:

"DEAR SIR: The celebration committee of the Society of CaliforniaPioneers, expect, though as yet no formal action has been taken, toinvite yourself, Mr. J. Johnston, Mr. Azariah Smith, and Mr. Henry W.Bigler, who were with Marshall at Coloma on the 24th of January, 1848,to come to San Francisco as honored guests of the Society, and at itsexpense, to participate in the semi-centennial celebration of thateventful day, on the 24th of January next.

"If we should send such an invitation to you, will you come and be withus? Letters from Mr. Bigler and Mr. Smith lead me to hope that theywill accept the invitation.

"So soon as formal action is taken, you will be informed either bymyself or by the secretary of our committee.

"Yours truly,

"JOHN S. HITTELL.

"A member of the Celebration Committee."

My response was that if my health would permit, and all things weresatisfactory, I should be pleased to accept such an invitation. Ireceived another letter from Mr. Hittell, under date of December 15th,in which he said:

"Mr. James S. Brown:

"DEAR SIR: This evening the celebration committee of the PioneerSociety adopted a resolution to invite you to attend the Golden Jubileeof California, as an honored guest of the Society, which will provideyou with first class transportation from and to your home, and takecharge of your hotel bill from the 22nd of January till the 31st ofJanuary, 1898, in this city.

"Mr. B. H. and Mr. H. B. Luther, brothers, say that they were at Colomaon the 24th of January, 1848, as boys, with their father and mother.Do you know them and remember when they reached Coloma? They say theirmother, who was with them there, is still living."

Under date of December 25th, Mr. Hittell also wrote me:

"Captain James S. Brown:

"DEAR SIR: Please let me know the amount of the railroad fare from SaltLake to Ogden, so that we may forward the sum to you by letter; weexpect to send you a ticket from Ogden to this city, including a lowerberth in a sleeping car.

"We hope that you, Bigler, Smith and Johnston will all come in the samecar. I have addressed a similar letter to each of the other three.

"Thanks for your letter of December 20th. I was satisfied that Gregsonand the Luthers were not at the sawmill on the 24th of January, 1848.

"I suppose the best train would be the one leaving Salt Lake City at9:10 p.m., on January 20th, arriving at San Francisco January 22nd, at9:45 a.m. Does that suit you?"

The next communication on the subject was as follows:

"EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENT, THE SOCIETY OF CALIFORNIA PIONEERS, NO. 5,PIONEER PLACE, SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA,

"January 7, 1898,

"James S. Brown, Esq., Salt Lake City:

"DEAR SIR: The Society of California Pioneers invites you to attend theGolden Jubilee Celebration of our State, and to accept the hospitalityof the Society in San Francisco, from the 22nd till the 31st ofJanuary, 1898. Enclosed find a pass from the S. P. R. R. Co., for yourpassage from Ogden to San Francisco and return. We send you today byWells, Fargo & Co.'s Express, fifteen dollars in coin to pay for yoursleeping berth and meals on the way. We have engaged a lower berth foryou on the Pullman car which leaves Ogden on the night of Thursday, the20th instant.

"The reception committee will meet you on the Oakland boat on the morningof Saturday, the 22nd, and will wear the badge of the Society. Shouldyou miss seeing them you will go to the Russ House, where we haveengaged rooms and board for you.

"Should you not be able to come, please return the enclosed railroadpass, and notify the ticket agent at Ogden that you will not use thesleeping berth.

"Yours truly,

"J. I. SPEAR, Secretary.

"P. S.—We have arranged to have your railroad pass extended for thirtydays if you wish it. S."

Like my Mormon Battalion companions who were with me on the memorable24th of January, 1848, I could not but feel highly gratified at thecourtesy extended, and look forward with pleasure to the commemoration,under so favorable circumstances and with such marvelous progress asCalifornia had made in civilization, of the fiftieth anniversary of anotable event, which at the time of its occurrence, came to us in themidst of hardships, fatigue and almost exile from home and relatives,yet was a world-wonder in the results which followed the announcementto the world of California's great gold discovery.

CHAPTER LXVIII.

TRIP TO CALIFORNIA—MET BY THE COMMITTEE ON RECEPTION OF THE SOCIETYOF CALIFORNIA PIONEERS—RECEIVED WITH GREAT CORDIALITY—HONORED GUESTSAT CALIFORNIA'S GOLDEN JUBILEE—THE CELEBRATION—COURTESIES EXTENDEDTO MORMON BATTALION MEMBERS PRESENT AT THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD—RETURNHOME—RESOLUTIONS BY SOCIETY OF CALIFORNIA PIONEERS—REPORT OFRECEPTION COMMITTEE OF CALIFORNIA GOLDEN JUBILEE—SKETCH OFMARSHALL'S SURVIVING COMPANIONS—COMPLETE MY AUTOBIOGRAPHY—MY SONHOMER ACCIDENTALLY KILLED—THE OLD FOLKS—PUBLICATION OF LIFE OF APIONEER—CONCLUSION.

IN response to the invitation from the Society of California Pioneers,I left Salt Lake City on January 20, 1898, in company with Henry W.Bigler, Azariah Smith and Wm. J. Johnston, who, like myself, wereguests of the Society. We reached Oakland, California, January 22,and were met by Mr. John H. Jewett, president of the society, and acommittee consisting of Messrs. John S. Hittell, Almarin B. Paul,General Wm. H. Pratt, and Misses Anna P. Green and Mary M. Green. Theladies pinned badges of the Society of California Pioneers on thelapels of our coats. We were received with the greatest cordiality, andwere taken to the Russ House, San Francisco, where we were comfortablylodged, being shown special consideration by the proprietor andhis amiable wife, and from that time on we were given the best ofattention. Nothing that could be done was too good for us, and languagefails to express our high appreciation of the courtesy and kindnessbestowed.

Whenever we attended any of the functions of California's GoldenJubilee Celebration, or desired to visit a place, carriages were at ourservice. January 24th was the fiftieth anniversary of the discoveryof gold at Sutter's mill race, and there was a magnificent pageant incelebration of the event. We occupied the post of distinction in theprocession, our carriage bearing the legend, "Companions of Marshall."We were the only survivors of that notable occasion, fifty yearsbefore. The place of honor was also accorded to us at the celebrationceremonies in the evening at Wood's Pavilion, and on the 27th we wereat a reception in Pioneer Hall, and greeted the multitudes, old andyoung, anxious to see and shake hands with us; and at the Mining Fairour treatment was characterized by the same cordial and distinguishedwelcome. The celebration ceremonies lasted the entire week. When at ourhotel we were besieged by reporters, and hundreds of people called tosee us, and get our autographs. Our photographs also were taken for theSociety of Pioneers.

Outside of the celebration proper, there was the same magnanimouskindness. I could not name all the citizens who extended to us markedcourtesies, but feel that I must specially mention Captain John T.McKenzie of the steamer San Rafael, who was very attentive, also Hon.Irving Scott, manager of the great Union Iron Works, at which place wehad a particularly interesting visit and entertainment.

Two of my companions started home on January 31st, and the third onFebruary 2nd. I stayed a few days longer, visiting my brother atPetaluma. I also went to many other places of interest, then returnedhome, all expenses of my journey being provided. A few days later Ireceived the following:

"EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENT, THE SOCIETY OF CALIFORNIA PIONEERS, NO. 5,PIONEER PLACE, SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA,

"February 9, 1898,

"James S. Brown, Esq., Salt Lake City, Utah:

"DEAR SIR: I have the honor of advising you that at the monthly meetingof the members of the Society held at Pioneer Hall on Monday, February7, 1898, the following resolutions were unanimously adopted:

"Whereas, The Golden Jubilee just passed marks the second grand eventas connected with the first discovery of gold in California, and as allpioneers feel gratified at the universal desire of the people to paytribute to the pioneer days, now be it

"Resolved, That the Society of California Pioneers tenders itsthanks to the press generally; to the state and city officials; to themilitary as a body; to the various mining associations; to the NativeDaughters and Native Sons of the Golden West, and to the many otherorganizations that participated in making the grand pageant of January24th a splendid success. And be it further

"Resolved, That the thanks of this society are also tendered toHenry W. Bigler, James S. Brown, Wm. J. Johnston and Azariah Smith,the companions of Marshall, in lending their presence for the Jubilee;and especially do we appreciate the efforts and labors of theexecutive committee of the Golden Jubilee, and we also return thanksto the Southern Pacific Company for complimentary passes to the fourcompanions of Marshall to and from San Francisco and Ogden, also forits liberal contribution to the Golden Jubilee held under auspices ofthe society; and also to Irving M. Scott on part of the Union IronWorks, for the invitation to the companions of Marshall and members ofthis Society to visit the works, and the placing at our disposal theirtug for the trip, and further for the many courtesies extended to allby the several officers connected with the works while there.

"J. H. JEWETT, President."

On February 20th this note came:

"1316 HYDE STREET, SAN FRANCISCO,

"February 18, 1898.

"Mr. James S. Brown:

"Dear Sir: Your letter of the 16th inst, with the news that youhad arrived safely at home, has given me pleasure. I felt someresponsibility for my part in bringing four old men so far away fromhome, but now that I know all have arrived in good health at Salt Lake,I congratulate myself that events have turned out so favorably. I havehad no letter from Mr. Bigler or Mr. Smith, but they will write to me.

"I spoke promptly to Mr. Spear, the secretary, about sending fifteendollars to pay for the expenses of your return trip, and I understoodhim to promise that the money would be transmitted to you by check.

"The Pioneer Society will long preserve a pleasant recollection ofthe participation of the four companions of Marshall in our Jubileecelebration, and personally I shall always be glad to hear of theirwelfare.

"Yours truly,

"JOHN S. HITTELL."

Here is the closing communication in relation to my latest visit toCalifornia and the occasion which caused it:

"San Francisco, March 9, 1898.

"Mr. James S. Brown, Salt Lake City:

"DEAR SIR: Enclosed please find a copy of the report of the receptioncommittee of the Golden Jubilee:

"To John H. Jewett, President of the California Pioneers:

"The reception committee appointed by the Society to receive its guestsattending the celebration of the Golden Jubilee on the 24th of Januarylast, begs leave to report that its task has been completed.

"On the morning of January 22nd all the members of the committeereceived and welcomed the four companions of Marshall on the overlandtrain at Oakland, and escorted them to the Russ House, where, underthe direction of President John H. Jewett, they were provided withcomfortable accommodations.

"These four men, the only survivors of those who were with Marshall atColoma when he discovered gold there on Monday, the 24th of January,1848, are:

"I. Henry W. Bigler, born in Harrison County, West Virginia, August28th, 1815, who in his diary made the only written record of the golddiscovery on the day of its occurrence. He is now a resident of St.George, Utah.

"2. Azariah Smith, born at Boylston, New York, on the 1st of August,1828, who, on the first Sunday after the discovery, wrote in his diarythat gold had been found in the preceding week.

"3. James S. Brown, born in Davison County, North Carolina, on the 4thof July, 1828, who recollects that on the evening of January 24th,1848, H. W. Bigler said he would write in his diary that something likegold had been discovered, as it might be important some day. He residesin Salt Lake City.

"4. Wm. J. Johnston, born near New Baltimore, Ohio, on the 21st ofAugust, 1824, and now resides in Ramah, New Mexico.

"These four men are all clear in mind, and for their years, strong andactive in body.

"In the procession on the 24th they occupied a carriage marked'Companions of Marshall.' On the evening of that day, they wereentertained in our hall with special honor, and two days later theyheld a reception in the same place. Various members of our Society,and especially Captain McKenzie, showed them much attention. Theywere guests of honor at the Mining Fair on the opening evening. Hon.Irving M. Scott, manager of the Union Iron Works, gave them a specialentertainment at his shipyard; and other citizens contributed to maketheir stay in our city pleasant. The whole Jubilee week was a round offestivity for them.

"Messrs. Bigler and Smith were escorted to their returning train atOakland on the 31st of January. Mr. Johnston two days later, and Mr.Brown in the next succeeding week. They all reached their homes safely,and all have written to members of the committee acknowledging theattention and honor shown to them by the Society of California Pioneers.

"As they are the only persons now living who saw gold in the days ofits discovery, their attendance at our semi-centennial celebrationconnected our Jubilee in a highly interesting manner with the greatevent which it commemorated. We may add that personal acquaintance withthese venerable men has been a source of pleasure to all members ofthis committee, as well as to many other Pioneers.

"Respectfully submitted,

"JOHN S. HITTELL, Chairman.
"ALMARIN B. PAUL,
"W. H. PRATT."

Upon my return home, I again gave attention to this autobiography,which proved no light task, as my health has been far from good.

On the 14th of December, 1899, a keen sorrow came to myself and family.My son Homer, in his twenty-sixth year, died on that date, as a resultof injuries received at a cave-in at the Silver King mine, Park City,Utah, three weeks before. When war broke out between Spain and theUnited States in 1898, he enlisted in response to President McKinley'scall for volunteers, and became a member of Troop C, Utah VolunteerCavalry. After his return from California, where the cavalry was sent,he was married, the event occurring two months before the accidentwhich cost him his life. On December 19, he was buried in Salt LakeCity, the funeral services being held at the Seventeenth Ward assemblyrooms.

In the summer of 1898, I was added to the list of Utah's Old Folks,attending the excursion to Lagoon, Davis County, in July, 1898, toGeneva, Utah County, in July, 1899, and again at Lagoon on July 6,1900. The Old Folks include all people over seventy years of age,independent of creed, race or color; these are accorded receptions,excursions, and similar happy courtesies, as marks of honor and respectto the aged. The central committee having this highly appreciatedundertaking in charge has for its chairman the Presiding Bishop of theChurch of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints.

By the close of 1899, I had completed the preparation of my life'shistory for publication in a neat volume, and soon thereafter arrangedfor the printing, which at this date, July, 1900, is accomplished. Nowthat I have reached the seventy-second annual milestone of my life, Irealize that the period for especially notable or thrilling events inmy mortal career is past; and in the publication of my autobiography, Isincerely trust that this humble final extended labor on my part willachieve the principle aim of its performance, that of doing good tothose who live after me, in the witness its record bears of the mercy,power, and goodness of God, and the latter-day progress of His greatand loving design for the blessing and salvation of His children. Withthis attainment, the influence of the record, LIFE OF A PIONEER, willbe in accord with the sincere desire and earnest effort of my soulthroughout life.